• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.173-187
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.55-70
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• 2009

This study aims at analyzing the formativeness of women fashion shoes shown in the high fashion since 2000 along with the necessity of study for such purposes. Fashion shoes designed for the perfection of high fashion have been positioned as an important item to increase the value of fashion. Subsequently, three formative images through the research method under the literature study could be analyzed as follows. First, the Fetishism image appeared from 18th century and the shoe heel has the erotic internal beauty while attracting the erotic nature from the perspective of 'feet confinement'. The high heel came to have an absolute relationship with the feminine beauty, and the feet and shoes are accepted for the erotic symbol regardless of anyone in the East or West. Second, the fashion shoes in the Maximalism image to pursue for the dream and excitement at the same time have been shown at the same time by using various ornaments in an exaggerated manner for the use of ornaments to clothes through designs by shoe designers. Third, the Aristocratism image in the fashion shoes was remarkably highlighted with the use of materials from processing natural materials with the best quality, which was expressed in an exotic manner with roughness and comfort despite the nature of refinement balanced with the simple reactionary tendency and technical senses of handicrafts. It can be perceived that the inner emotions of human beings are expressed by intentionally dismantling the functions of shoes in terms of functionality even in the fashion shoes in completing the ideal images after which are pursued by people.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to clarify the meanings of the images of the body-in-pieces in fashion design. This study focusing on the body-in-pieces based theoretically in that, and started to figure out the meanings in western art history. Body-in-pieces images were brought in art to express symbolic meanings to destroy the past, sexual fetish, unconsciousness, desire, fantasy, and to disorganize male-subjective idealistic female image. While in fashion design, body-in-pieces images categorized in three, erotic image, cyborg image, abjection image. First, erotic images in fashion design are fragmented body image, such like lip, hair, eye and etc. Second, cyborg image was represented by 3-dimentional molding image made of metallic materials, and last, abjection image representing death image used skeleton and bone image induced uncanny and sadistic feelings. Body-in-pieces images in fashion design are related to fetishism, uncanny, disorganizing traditional femininity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.123-135
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• 2014

This study classifies types of fashion victims and identifies an internal value system that works for their fashion selection. This study reviewed the definition of 'fashion victim' by tracing similar terms such as fashion terrorist, fashion loser, and worst dresser. We classified fashion styles of fashion victims into four types based on an analysis of articles that pertained to Korean celebrities' fashion and image data. The first type is the fashion style of those who dress without any consideration of body shape. The second type is the style for those who have little consideration in regards to personal image. The third type is the style of those who choose a fashion with excessive decoration. The fourth type is the style for those who use too many fashion items at the same time. Based on a consistent analysis of fashion styles, this study identified the internal value system believed to be working in fashion victims' fashion selection. This study presents three internal value system characteristics. The first is the fetishism that is revealed when fashion victims wear expensive clothes or fashion items that are believed to reveal their personal identity and social status. The second is the blindness which becomes apparent when they follow a fashion in vogue indiscriminately without considering a personal image or body shape. The third is an excessiveness shown when individuals select clothes with too many beads or feathers that are decorative and rich in volume.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.218-230
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is -under the post-modem situation- to emphasize the role of women which has various several logic on feminism, to look forward to division of men's consciousness of women, and to reflect a trend to accept the role of sex which is occurring in the system of sex, that is, 'The Third Gender and Homosexuality'. The category of biological and sociocultural on feminism discussed, meantime expressed the sexual logic under post-modern situation, and probed the sexual logic on feminism which was expressed in modem dress and its ornaments by redefining some characters as follows; Imitation-it was to attain masculinity by imitating the body of the opposite sex. Interaction such situations like...... masculinity in women, feminity in men was demonstrated as transvestism of cross-dressing and the symbolic meaning of homosexuality was demonstrated in the shoes of sociocultural on Feminism. Dispersion appeared as a moderation charm and a resistance against the men-ruling culture. Destruction-expressed the fetishism of punk of porny image and maternal affectional image of biological trend as playful satire. Therefore, It is conceived that Feminism would be created true human-phase come true in the men's world as long as the realization of women themselves make the phase of women higher; and further not only propose new image of women but the system of gender.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.326-337
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• 2006

Self-immersed narcissism image that had been limited only a feminine image has being represented as a new masculinity image through various fashion magazine and TV advertisements. Besides, this makes a contribution of enlargement of concern about the beauty and fashion of the male. In the past, fashion has been created through the fetishism about the female body. But, new male image has been changed during only 30-40 years compared with the traditional various social, cultural, sexual body images had been changed for a long time. On the contrary, changed modem male image removes the interval of difference between the male and the female image. Now, representative techniques of the masculinity perform both accommodation and disobedience against social and cultural rules. Social body, which has been understood that appearance represents almost all things, makes the good use of the space of discipline and reformation. This paper is tended to grasp the characteristics of male body image expressed modem male fashion and TV advertisements based on the examination about the changed male body image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권3호
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• 복식
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• 제67권4호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2017

Centered on Kathleen Kye, a designer who conveyed messages on social issues through her dresses, and established her own identity, this study aimed to examine what theme, method of expression and inner meaning her 'statement' had, as a way of expressing a critical awareness. After reviewing discussions by Duggan G. G. as well as dictionary definitions, statement fashion design can be defined as a work or fashion shows containing a message of a designer who is free from a particular trend or consumerism in various social issues. Statement fashion designers give opposing messages on social issues through their fashion collections. As a result, research shows that contemporary statement fashion designers are expressing themes of a fashion systems, fetishism, body image, collision, environment, as well as the socially disadvantaged by appropriation, reuse, slogan, metaphorical pattern and performance. Satire, awakening, challenge and support can be derived from the inner meaning of contemporary statement fashion design. In terms of the theme, method of expression and inner meaning, this study showed that KYE collection of the designer Kathleen Kye expresses critical awareness on the modern society. Research findings reveal that KYE collection include the following themes: long-term youth unemployment, conflict collision in war or on the Internet, fetishism by youth in a get-rich-quick fever, environmental issue causing destruction of an ecosystem by decrease in bee population, school violence and the socially disadvantaged related to alienated immigrants. Also, as a method of expression themes, such as metaphorical patterns, were used. The patterns used images including a skeleton, gun, heart, rope, plaster, homeless box, bee, honeycomb, chain and a slot machine. On the other hand, the inner meaning of statement in KYE collection showed satire on social issues, awakening on social issues unrecognized by the masses, and support for the socially disadvantaged.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.947-959
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• 2009

This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.