• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.782-798
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• 2012

The research aim is to analyze the attributes of fashion as an object of art, and to examine its potential and status as an art of body space. This paper explains the relationship between these two disciplines by focusing on the body as the foundation of fashion and art's concepts, and discusses the intrinsic properties and the approach to the creation of fashion which is expressed through the body. The research begins by analyzing the sociologists thoughts on the body and extracts the characteristics of fashion as a practice of a new art field from the perspective of body creating space. It explains that fashion can most easily transform the body and that this, along with the body itself, possesses the element of creating body space. Fashion is a new avenue for understanding the body that not only includes the human figure but also its movement and spirit approached as a creative activity. The paper will show that fashion chosen as an art activity expresses the changeable and ambiguous body and embraces an unlimited potential of creative activity. This expands the creative field by managing both the inner and outer space of the body. Historical examination, literature review and overview of development of reference materials will establish the theory.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.307-318
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• 1997

I observed the important factors of clothing transition - Changes of Korean clothing & reception of Western-style dress - through the survey of the clothing of girl students during the period of enlightenment(1900∼1945) in this study as follows. 1) Stop to use of a long hood an old-fashioned woman shawI(once used to cover th head and upper body when going out). 2) Appearance of same colored Korean costume of the upper and lower sides. 3) Appearance of a short seamless one-piece skirt with a pair of shoulder girdles. 4) Appearance of school uniform, upper white lower black-Korean costume. 5) Appearance of school uniform, Western style. 6) Appearance of sports-wear. 7) Reformation of under-wear. 8) Appearance of short hair. 9) Appearance of socks & stockings and shoes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.3 s.3
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• pp.96-101
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• 2004

This study suggests the basic resources for men's cosmetic which shows in history. Because not only ancient chief but also modern French noble men made up in the area where succeeded the traditional national cosmetic, when it was seen through historic or world, the men's cosmetic was generated and was more luxurious and presence than women. But since the French revolution, men was limited the collection of fashion, also the luxurious cloth and cosmetic disappeared. It was 1960s that men's cosmetic based rock musicians reappeared. And then, rock musicians made up luxuriously. The early cosmetic of rock musicians began from the protest's meaning for old fashioned value and fixed society. But gradually, it was changed the style that valued appearance's beauty. In the past, movie star's hair style and cloth were the basic fashion, but now the sportsmen are recognized heroes and their cosmetic is prevailing. Today, the basic meaning of men's presence fashion is that men and women's each role and self expression is allowed and appearance's decoration showed from sex roles disappeared. Men is limited body's beautiful expression and collective range but they fluently express each self imagination through work, special hobby, female attire and drag queen. From various men's beautiful expression, we will know that human beings want a society which is recognizing different self expressions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.139-166
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• 1998

This dissertation is to help understanding about the emergence of active children's clothes in the latter part of the 18th century in England. In previous ages children had not been look-ed upon as children, but as incomplete and in-ferior men and women, the costume of children had not been distinguishable from that of their elders. The early eighteenth-century chil-d could not play in comfort because they dressed like their parents. But in the third quarther of the eighteenth century children became free from their con-comfortable and became active. English chil-dren's clothes was prevailing even in Europe as well. In the background of this liberation, there were many enlightened ideas, such as philosophers of enlightenment, doctors, writers, educators. Among these John Locke and Jean Jacque Rousseau criticized openly about rampant fashion which was distorting the body by corset and hoop. Rousseau was the one who wrote$\boxDr$Emile$\boxUl$and played the most important role to free children from an old fashioned idea, and emphasized to bring up children by the natural process of mental and physical development as human beings are a part of nature. Fashion reflects politic, economic, social, ideology, culture of the days and these factor function to create fashion which shows“Time Spirit”.Children's clothes, like those of their parents, follow the fashion, but with a difference, the form of which varies with the attitude to the child. Thus this dissertation was to study in relation with the background of the times in the latter part of 18th century in England and Rousseau's Naturalism in connection with the emergence of active children's clothes. The result is that diffusion of the idea of freedom and equality, the growth of bourgeoisie, the development of clothing and tex-tile industry have influenced to the emergence of active children's clothes. Also a great deal of middle and high class parents devoted to their children's education and was influenced by Rousseau's Naturalism. Specially the bourgeoisie who made their fortune by their own effort were eager to educate their achievement and business by their children through education. This factor influenced to the children's clothes as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.35-59
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• 2002

The purpose of the study is to clarify the relationship between hair style and personal character. This is elucidated by using the standard model of their preferred hair style to their individual to their personality. The study is primarily centered around college woman, who reside in Young dong area. The research suggested that In the age group 19-25 subjects preferred their hair to be shoulder length or longer. This is in contrast to the older age group preferring a shorter hair style. Certainly most subjects under the age of 25 preferred their natural hair texture as opposed to permed hair fashioned by older subject. Difference is personality traits was not a factor here. There is a relationship between personality traits, personal background and whether or not subjects dyed or decolored their hair. Subjects responded "yes" which means that they are easily affected by the two factors. The response to the other question of which color they chose, if they dyed and decolored, was that the most of the cases preferred brown color because brown is a natural looking hair color. Their responses from the question "what kind of style they want, if they can change their style differently", they preferred a fashionable hair style. In most cases, individual responded that they change their hair style once in every two or three months. Of all the personality traits, 48.1% were adventurous, changingtheir hair style more than once in every 6 months. The main reason they change their hair style is that they are bored with their old style. In the under 25 age group, the cost of changing their hair style is usually paid for by the subjects parents, however a few responded that they paid for themselves. Over the age of 25 years 80% usually paid for themselves. Additionally students who supported themselves financially paid for hair restyling themselves. When changing a hair style most subjects consider that new hair style should go with their existing image. "What kind of image they want to show others？" almost all of them responded that they want to look sophisticated and fashionable, In the age group 25 and over who belong to the upper class want their hair to look healthy and a full of body. They also responded about their changing their hair style to show a different appearance positively,fferent appearance positively.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Oriental Medical Informatics
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.19-42
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• 2008

Blood-Letting Therapy is a rational and ecological medical treatment by which we can heal most of the diseases by removing the static blood which precipitates in the blood vessel and blocks the flowing of blood. And the static blood is the generic term for the injurious, bad, dead and precipitated blood which is blocked the capillary vessel. The Yellow Emperor's Canon of Internal Medicine says that "the patient is treated with drugs internally and stone acupuncture externally. "In the old texts, the blood-letting therapy is mentioned as blood-letting, network vessel pricking, bloodletting, pricking, and arousing pulses etc and it is noted down as the method of network vessel pricking in 'On the Application of Needles' of Spiritual Pivot. Nine-pricking therapy, twelve-pricking therapy and five-pricking therapy are recorded in the methods of network vessel pricking and among them, the method of squeezing blood after pricking the affected part is explained as the network vessel pricking. There are four methods of network vessel pricking, pricking, picking, cluster needling and scatter-pricking and they are fluidly applied to the various symptoms of diseases. In 'On Discriminative Treating for Patients of Different Regions' in Elementary Questions, Ki-baek emphasizes "most of the local people, there are black in skin and loose in striate, and their diseases are mostly of carbuncle kind. It is suitable to treat the disease with stone therapy to prick with stone, so the stone therapy is transmitted from the east. "And in 'On the Corresponding Relation Between the Eum and Yang of Man and All Things' in Elementary Questions, when the Emperor asked Ki-Back, he answered "sthenia means the sthenia of evil, and deficiency means the deficiency of healthy energy. When the blood is sthenic, the evil should be discharged by pricking when out letting the blood; deficiency of vital energy is the asthenia of channels and network vessels, so the energy should drain from the channel which is not deficient, to replenish. "And in this case we can use the methods of 'Breaking out the static bloods', 'driving out the static bloods', blood-letting'. With this we can infer that the blood-letting therapy is made use of the important medical treatments from the ancient times. Especially in referring to the principles of treatment in The Yellow Emperor's Canon of Internal Medicine, it mostly alluded to acupuncture therapies and only eleven times to medicinal treatments. This is to verify that the blood-letting therapy formed the foundation of the medical art. In Dong's Therapy of Acupuncture-Moxibustion and Bloodletting, Dong Kyeong-Chang gave emphasis on the points that there must be extravasated bloods without exception in the serious illnesses which is old, unnatural, accompanying acute pains and so we can revive our body‘s sprit by circulating 'gi' and static blood piled up in the network vessel, regulating the weakness and strength, and controling the disharmony of the internal organs. The blood-letting therapy has effect on the orifice in emergency, such as fore draining, freeing network vessels, harmonizing gi and blood, relieving pain, dispersing swelling and concretion, sedation, resolving toxin as well as strengthening the heart, relieving itching. So it has distinguished effect on all kinds of medical treatment to the modern people. But by the change of social customs and the confucianism of confucius - it is widely spread on the period of North and South Dynasties, 'Wi' and 'Jin' in china and the period of the Three States in korea - The blood-letting therapy which was regarded as the most important medicinal treatment withered rapidly. And Confucius accentuated the importance of our body and all its members, loyalty and filial piety and banned any damage of our body under no circumstances. As a result of it, the therapy of blood-letting had a rapid decrease and barely kept itself in existence in both countries. What is worse, at the period of Japanese colonial rule of korea and our nation's founding of early stage, it has been withered by the high-handed policy to change Oriental Medicine into modern medical science. So the therapy of blood-letting barely kept itself in existence in some Buddhist temples. Another case, it has handed down as a old-fashioned quick fix in folk remedies. But all kinds of the contamination of heavy metals and the misuses of antibiotics are widely spread nowadays, which increased diseases of adult people and incurable diseases as modern society unavoidably made its way into a highly industrial society. To make us more miserable, the western medical science - the antibiotics and surgical operation medical science - already reveals itself into a limit. The necessity of a new medical science which can give a security to the patients who are suffering from the diseases of adult people and the incurable diseases is especially come into the force nowadays. In view of the results after bibliographically studying on the blood-letting Therapy in Elementary Questions of the Yellow Emperor's Canon of Internal Medicine, the blood-letting therapy has acted for the important Oriental medicinal science and has been clarified the prominent effects on the diseases of adult people and the incurable diseases. So it is regarded as an appropriate thing that we lay out a determined theory of the blood-letting therapy and of course prevent the unwanted side effects from inappropriate medicinal treatments, and make full use of clinic by elevating the curative value and that we win back our self-respect of medical treatment which is dominated from the western medical science and ultimately contribute to national medical welfare.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.293-312
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• 1997

Deconstructionism is a philosophical stream in the latter half of 20'th century which goes against western metaphysics and tries to deconstruct the dualism e.g. eastern/west-ern man/woman. Its main concepts are 'indi-vidual' 'other' 'difference' 'restoration of the repressed' 'decentralization' 'Today it shows strong influences in literature art, and other social fields. This study investigated inner meanings and exterior forms represented in clothing on the base of Jacques Derrida's theory in order to re-search modes of deconstruction in is. And it compared clothing with architecture among other genres of art in order to discover similarities between through and modes of art in a certain period. For illuminating concept of deconstruction I referred to the literatures of preceding studies and for deconstruction's characteristics in both clothing and architec-ture I referred work's collection book $\ulcorner$collec-tions$\lrcorner$ and other related books dealing from 1960's to this point. As a rsult there are four modes of decons-truction in both clothing and architecture as follows; 1) Differenance which is a concept of the dif-ference in time and space as being trace. 2) In termeaning of meanings which is not present in reality but re-interpreted a new in the future. 3) Interxtuality in which a texte is not alone but with others 4) Dis.De phenomenon in which distortion and fragmentation forms occur as the result of the denial of perfection and reson. There are characteristics of modes of de-construction in clothing as follows; 1) Differance; R.Gigli, P. Rabanne. G.Bersace, V.Westwood are representatives of the cloth-ing which is combined with the past the pres-ent and the future or is re-viewed as the clothing of the past in the present point of view. J. Watanabe R. Dawakubo I miyake are representatives of the clothing which is out-date but re-viewed in the sense of recollec-tion and re-usage. 2) Intermeaning of meanings: R. kawakubo I, Miyake Y,Yamamoto are representatives of the clothing which is incomplete but re-interpreted in the future and appears to be new-fashioned according to ways of bnding wearing throwing on and tying J.C. Castel-bajac K.Hamnett S.Sprouse are representa-tives of the clothing which is made up of ab -stract forms scribbling or symbolic letters which appears to be different according to view-point of observers. 3) Intertextuality ;J.P.Gaultier K.Hamnett, Comme des Gar ons are representatives of intertextuality of gender which avoids the 여-ality of man/woman J.P Gaultier G,Versace J. galliano are representatives of the intertex-tuality of time place and occasion which mixes temporality extensity and purposiveness. J.P Gaultier G,Versace are representatives of the intertextuality of coordination which combines items different in image purpose and use. P.Rabanne A,Courr ges R,Gernreic I,Miyake are representatives of the intertextuality of mat-ter which uses heterogeneous matter different from cloth. 4) Dis.De-phenomenon: R, Kawakubo I.Mi-yake J.P.Gaultier are representatives of the de-composition which discloses distortion and exag-geration of form through destructing the estab-lished way of construction J.Galliano R.Kawa-kubo Devota Y Lomba arte representatives of the decentring which restores the repressed and the alienated on the one hane and shows front-centrality on the other. Comme des Gar ones is representative of the discontinuity because of which right and left up and down are not in har-mony with one another. J,Galliano J.P,Gaultier T,Mugler are representatives of the disruption by way of which one makes one's body exposed through intentional slashes or holes. As a consequence deconstructionism enabled us to investigate similarities between through of deconstruction and modes of art interms of diffrance Intermeaning of meanings intertextuality and Dis De-phenomenon. And we found that deconstruction was a phase of development in that it as a all-comprising and multiple concept tries to pursue the new through deconstruction.

• The Journal of Korean Philosophical History
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• no.43
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• pp.141-170
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• 2014

Science of gaining knowledge by the study of things[格物致知學]' is the translation of Science in Chosun age. Science of gaining knowledge by the study of things[格物致知學] which is the highest stage of new science is the symbol of the transfer of universal culture to the western modern civilization from old-fashioned confucianism. Modern western culture and the scientific way of thinking make man as a object to scientific research. Thinking method of social Darwinism made man believe to think like them as the modern method. And also such thinking method made man militarism and imperialism are right thinking and research methods. The core to think the science of gaining knowledge by the study of things[格 物致知學] as a violent thinking method is the Confucianism. By this method Park Eun-sik criticize this side of scientific technology as the means of militarism. Till now we pointed to think of the traditional philosophy as the tool of the western modern philosophy about war criminal. Now we rethink of the Confucianism asset as a tool of Korean Modern Culture. Musungmumul[無誠無 物] will offer moral basis to think humanism of the scientific technology of the modern western culture.