• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.787-803
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo's collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo's 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo's collection.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.83-98
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• 2012

In 2009, two national universities were integrated into one and the following was newly named Gangneung- Wonju National University. Therefore, this university requires consolidation and promotion of UI(University Identity) as a college brand in order to secure and enhance its competitiveness. The purpose of this study was to design and develop campus-wear, ultimately, it can be used as a part of the Gangeung-Wonju University's UIP policy. A qualitative approach of searching==incorporating books, dissertations, and web-based information==was taken to investigate theoretical backgrounds. The campus-wears were collected from the selected universities in Korea and abroad for the distinct design development. The result of the research are as follows. The concept for the design planning was "wit, exciting & challenge for campus life". The developed UI had focused on expressing positive images of the University. Six items were chosen for the campus-wear design. The goal was to demonstrate practicality and fashion trend. The color arrangement primarily focused on the University's official color and pursued a bright, breeze look. The detailed techniques used for the actual production were printing, embroidery, and accessories. The UI products may not only instill the members of the university with the spirit and pride by strengthening the sense of belonging, but also create a synergistic effect in education by boosting the university promotion and by newly establishing standing as the integrated university.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.1-18
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• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.852-871
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to suggest a direction for the development of unlined underwear design. A style for unlined underwear can take strong points and compensate for weak points by using the characteristics of wire brassieres and bralettes. As a method for research, we based our study on literature and data such as previous studies, professional books, internet articles, and fashion magazines. As a result of analyzing the brassiere's status in lines like 'FOREVER 21' and 'VICTORIA'S SECRET', we determined that 'FOREVER 21' reflects the trend of unlined style underwear, and 'VICTORIA'S SECRET' has both unlined and wire brassieres to make breast correction. In the case of unlined style brassieres, a wire is put in order to gather the chest for compromising comfort and correction. In order to express the possibility of expressing various feelings even in unlined style, Design 1 lets everyone know that unlined underwear can be very comfortable as a daily, not used only occasionally for events. Design 2 demonstrates that besides the artificial feeling of using the strap for a special day or event, it can be expressed naturally by using the lace as it is. Design 3 expresses the luxurious and sexy, rather than the low-grade decadent sexy, by using the feeling of the single layer lace and the pearl decoration for wedding and honeymoon.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.49-61
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• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.11-22
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• 2010

Purpose: The purpose of this study is to develop golf wear textile design, produce simulation and samples, and create original designs using geometric patterns. Significance: If modern people's trend to pursue well-being is be associated with healthy and active lifestyle and the design which combines a sport sense into artistic image appears in golf wear, it is a very significant effort to settle the role of sport as a mega trend. Contents: This study examined the general concept of geometric patterns and the situation and characteristics of women's golf wear. Finally, the design and simulation of gold wear textile were proposed. Study Instruments: For theoretical research, articles, books, literatures, and Internet materials published at home and abroad were reviewed and collected. For empirical research, a dot, a stripe(a line), a square, and an oval were selected and simulation was tested visually after the development of textile designs. Finally it was directly produced and golf wear design was developed. Photoshop CS 3 and Wacom intuos 3 were used as a general-purpose program and hardware respectively. DTP printing was used for sample work. Based on research results, geometric patterns range broadly and diversely from prehistoric remains and relics to contemporary art, design, architecture, and fashion. It is a unique formative element with value and attraction as the infinite object of inquiry beyond an area and the times. The combination of geometric patterns with art touch could complement the rigidity of design. It contributed to the perception of important role of art in the design area, namely, the importance of design containing artistry.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.59-70
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• 2016

Qualitative consumption is a trend in the children clothing market and watching TV of childcare-entertainment reality programs are becoming popular. This study examines the watching degree of childcare-entertainment reality TV programs of parent buyer (30s) and potential buyer (20s) and we investigate their shopping orientation of children wear. We did the survey research of 200 consumers with SPSS statistical analysis including the review of internet news, paper, and books on children wear shopping orientation. The results are following: first, the longer the watching time of childcare-entertainment reality TV programs, the higher shopping orientation, such as following the fashion of child stars, and the higher the watching preferences on childcare-entertainment reality programs, the greater shopping orientation in following childcare-entertainment reality programs star when they are purchasing children's clothing. Second, potential consumers as well as parent consumers were affected by watching the childcare-entertainment reality programs. Watching childcare-entertainment reality TV programs could give the impact when they were shopping children's clothing because they wanted to follow the fashion of childcare-entertainment reality programs TV star. Accordingly, the exposure of the childcare-entertainment reality programs for children clothing is found to be positive to the both current and future consumers.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.63-83
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• 2011

This study aims to prove the changes, development and social background of Korean male cosmetics over the period of 2000-2010. There were total 574 articles written about male make-up and cosmetics in Chosun Daily, Joongang Daily and Donga Daily, which are the top three Korean local daily newspapers in terms of sales revenue for that period. These articles were analyzed together with social background research from various books and daily newspapers. The analysis of articles was divided into different categories; such as foundation cosmetics, color cosmetics, hair, and the social background. It was found that the articles related to foundation cosmetics were written the most, the articles related to male appearance management were second, articles on other items including how to manage the skin being the least. As for the social background of Korean male cosmetics, first of all, a change in social recognition can be pointed out. The traditional understanding of gender roles has changed, men's appearance management has started to be regarded as a competitive talent, and at the same time, the esthetic viewpoint for men also has changed. One example is the newly made popular term, "flower-handsome man", which shows the new trend of favoring males with nice skin. Second, the expansion of mass culture can be pointed out. As consumers can get information and fashion trends easier and faster, the fashion spreads fast, and this has led to the generalization and popularization of the sense of beauty. Third, the development of scientific technology and medical science can be pointed out. Thanks to the progress in those areas. the extension of youthfulness has become possible and the cosmetics industry was also affected greatly, as shown in the market spread of functional products for anti-ageing and wrinkle control as the interest in anti-ageing has grown. There are benefits from the development of scientific technology, but the problem of environmental pollution has appeared due to machinery and industrialization and thus the issue of well-being has been raised. Rising interest in naturalism, pro-environmentalism and organic cosmetics has influenced the cosmetics industry. In addition, the quantity of ultraviolet rays exposed to our skin has increased due to the air pollution caused by the destruction of environment, leading to increased usage of sun block lotion. Lastly, the influence of consumer society and the expansion of consumerism culture can be pointed out. In the modern society, consumption acts not only as the use of products and services but it also has an important role of mediating individuals with others and the society. The market for male cosmetics has been expanding and the number of men putting on make-up has been increasing rapidly. Therefore, this study is meaningful in that the analysis of the mode of change and the social background are an essential process in order to provide a direction for the future market for male cosmetics.