• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.63-78
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• 2008

Since 1960, minimalism has been one of the fashion phenomenon and turned out in many different ways. After postmodernism which contains negotiation and pluralism, appeared in 1980, there was a new wave of post minimalism that inherited 1960's minimalism. Minimal style which come out of 60's fashion, is marked by simplicity, minimal expression, and monochrome color, and it shows up simple style with no decoration. It opened up a young fashion period, and we saw minimal style in sports wear which utilized simplicity and function with spread of sports in the 70's. And also since 1980, Post-Modern widely influenced the idea about modern culture as well as complicated clothes getting rid of fixed concept, seeking to break the boundary between culture and life which were seek in fashion and personality as well as various characteristic, Accordingly in different ages, The style and image were borrowed from different culture and natural environment mixing the image, cultural phenomena like these appearing in complexity and expression, variety and possibility of new vision was expanded. Since 1980, Fashion has become more gradually diversity, high classed, required of each individuality. The phenomenon of fashion reappearance which was influenced by minimalism is continued to 2000. The Oriental style fashion is still attracted, so The new term "Ethic Minimalism" has appeared along with the trends which is put together. Therefore the purpose of this study is to search the concept and the characteristics of ethnic minimalism, to consider the relationship between minimalism and ethnic minimalism, and reveal the characteristic of ethnic minimalism happened to modern fashion. The study method went through literature research and practice research. The range of this study is oriental fashion spanning of from 1960 to current day. Photo records from this period show well the spirit of the oriental and the personality of minimalism. The oriental representative designer and western representative designer are centered Consequently, The formative characteristics of ethnic minimalism are simple, pure, unbalanced free style and representing the phenomena of compromise, blending oriental and western fashion. Structually, Elements of space and plane are emphasized, colors are restricted, and materials are composed mainly of natural fiber. So, minimalism based on simplicity combined with a structure of oriental spiritual depth and space, It could be called ethnic minimalism as a rational fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.837-851
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• 2013

This study investigates the relationship between dystopian ideas and fashion since the $20^{th}$ century and examines the social meaning of fashion influenced by dystopian ideas. From the 1900s to the 1950s, the idea of dehumanization by authoritarian governments and technology gave rise to fashion for freedom and self-introspection, which includes surrealistic fashion and beat style. In the 1980s and 1990s, a society marked by monopolistic power and the hi-tech control of humans was regarded as dystopia. It influenced a fashion that expressed dehumanization by hi-tech means such as cyberpunk style and designs that depicted or used electronic elements. The ongoing fear of ecological disaster since the late $20^{th}$ century also influenced designers to present collections concerned with environmental problems. Designers have created designs with printed messages on environmental issues or designs that express environmental devastation, and protective designs that use hi-tech fabrics or mechanical devices. Fashion influenced by dystopian ideas expressed contemporary fears, provided a critical view of society through defamiliarization, and sought problem-solving actions and alternatives to change or cope with the dystopian situation. Dystopian fashion gave society a chance to face contemporary problems and pursue a better society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.2
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• pp.15-31
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• 2016

Flower images are used as a design motif in various fields. Flower printings in clothes, in particular, usually represent nature. This study sets out to identify the characteristics of different fashion styles with flower printings, as well as the preferences and emotional images of Korean women in their 20s. The flower printings used in fashion design were classified into 5 types of styles: Modern, Natural Romantic, Maximalism, Neo-Hippie, and Ethnic style. Literature review and survey were conducted to identify the emotional images associated with the flower printings, as well as women's preferences. Through literature review, this study noted the formative elements of flower printings and their characteristics, as expressed in fashion designs. Then, the different styles were classified in order to provide theoretical foundation for the survey. The results of the study were significant in that they contributed to the definition and academic systemization of the characteristics of fashion styles with flower printings. Moreover, the study opened up possibilities for utilizing flowers to express a greater variety of meanings and influences in fashion. The findings can be used to enable fashion styles and emotional influences to be expressed through designs using natural motifs besides flowers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.29-40
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• 1992

The aesthetic of traditional Korean costume has been used as one of the design themes in the field of Korean contemporary fashion design for western style clothing. Using the Korean aesthetic comes from the idea that such ethnic beauty could gain an international reputation. The beauty of the Korean costume is rooted in the particular aesthetic consciousness of the Korean people : the aesthetics of nature, personality, the evil's eye. and tradition. From an artistic viewpoint, the formative elements are analyzed into the following categories: form including line and shape, color, pattern, materials and ornaments. The aesthetic elements of the costume are transformed into present fashion design through the formative elements of the fashion ; form including line, color, pattern, materials and ornamentation. To express Korean atmosphere, adapting traditional elements such as, needle cases, hinges of furnitures, closing function of big gate are active, As a conclusion, the actual fashion design of adapting Korean beauty are so confined to the original form of Korean Dress that the results of design are tend towards ethnocentric atmosphere. Therefore, to understand and express traditional Korean beauty in contemporary fashion design, one has to keep in mind the aesthetic of the traditional Korean costume. Then one must develop and pursue one's own methods of adapting Korean beauty. The sophistication and refinement of fashion design could be accomplished only through the deep appreciation of the Korean culture. The second, the sense of International perspective is needed to be understanded and obtaining public sympathy from an international society. The third, Critics and scholars are the most concerned with promoting Korean fashion at an international level. Korean fashion at an international level. Korean fashion design will only mature with the support of scholars and the theoretical understanding they bring with them. The last, public support including government level is needed to enhence the standand of Korea fashion today.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2024

This study aims to investigate the differences in blue jean styles and the visual images associated with them. To achieve this, literature reviews, case studies, and surveys were conducted. The results are as follows. 1) Based on previous studies, it was found that the design elements influencing the style of blue jeans and their visual images include waistline position, silhouette, details, decorations, and color. Additionally, differences in the preferences and visual evaluations of Korean and Chinese individuals regarding the style of blue jeans were confirmed. 2) Skinny blue jeans are typically characterized by a high waistline and a length that reaches the ankles, featuring a snug fit with stretchy fabric. Straight blue jeans, on the other hand, usually have a natural or high waistline and cover the instep, with a straight silhouette descending from the thigh to the hem. Bell-bottom blue jeans are primarily high-waisted and cover the instep with a silhouette forming a bell shape from the knee to the hem. 3) Korean and Chinese women in their 20s evaluated skinny, straight, and bell-bottom styles of blue jeans as having a 'casual' image. However, they also associated bell-bottom style blue jeans with 'unique' and 'attractive' images. Interestingly, Korean women described skinny-style blue jeans as making someone look 'youthful', while Chinese women perceived them as 'sophisticated', 'making the waist look thicker', and 'unassuming'. As for straight-style blue jeans, Korean women saw them as 'well-fitting', while Chinese women described them as 'making one appear taller', 'desirable', and 'free-spirited'.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.740-748
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to observe the face types of types of haircut design that is the basis for the completion of a hair styling mainly with case of male college student. For the purpose of this, I carried out direct and indirect observation and measurement for faces of 293 male college student who attended universities in Busan, and measured face types which were classified by the group analysis preferred hair style in order to do actual hair cut design. The result of this research is as follow. This paper conducted the element analysis in regard to the direct and indirect items of face, and it pulled out 5 elements. As a result of group analysis with elements as independent variables, they are classified into4 types. For actual hair cut design, 4 types classified by group analysis and nearing models analyzed. This research bring accurate information classified face types.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.749-759
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• 2007

As the traditional style is treated as one of the important themes in fashion recently, how to apply the formative character in Korean and Japanese traditional dress to modern fashion is searched through actual analysis of photograph material, Both design formative elements were confirmed by clothing and fashion department majors through visual data so that 20 pieces of them were selected as final analysis object. Korean traditional dress form in modern fashion emphasizes curvaceousness as plane division. On the other hand, that of Japanese shows straight line, layered, belt, big look through up & down connection style. Color in Korean traditional dress prefers white and original color and modern fashion displays the natural beauty through harmony of similar colors ; that of Japanese based on natural color such as persimmon color cherishes natural beauty and implicit moderation showing harmony of various original color with brilliance and neutral color. While texture in Korean traditional dress was fine and exquisite, that of Japanese preferred coarse and tactile ones. In motif, Korea was natural and geometric but Japanese variously used complex and geometric ones. Likewise, the result suggests that the formative character in Korean and Japanese modern fashion affects the modern dress format as new aesthetic sense and takes on more complicated and subtle aspect in basic form, not just use so far.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.44-59
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• 2020

This investigated the romanticism of Alessandro Michele who leads new trends in fashion industry as a creative director for Gucci. In this study, 307 women's wears exhibited by Alessandro Michele for 3 years in Milan collections from 2015 F/W to 2017 F/W are categorized according to the aesthetic characteristics of romanticism. Additionally, the five aesthetic features of Gucci's fashion design are an addition since the appearance of abnormally large size under the influence of postmodernism. The results based on the study purpose are as follows. First, the decoration makes the garments stand out by using fancy materials, splendid multicolor combination, applique embroidery and three-dimensional objects. Second, exotic style is expressed from an occidental perspective using Chinese traditional fashion or textiles, and exotic accessories. Thirdly, sensuality is manifested using see-through materials to emphasize women's breasts, or the beautiful and sexual expression of women's body. Fourth, the new creations are designed by combining contrasting elements, such as disparate materials and, different genders. Furthermore, traditional cultures like baroque and rococo, and the 1970's vintage looks inspires the creation of retro-style. Finally, the appearance of extremely large shoulders, silhouettes, and details of the human body can be explained with expansive tendency. The aforementioned results further suggest that diverse characteristics are expressed via reflection of contemporary art and trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.121-135
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• 1998

The purpose of this thesis is to study the social and cultural background and characteristic of neo-classicism which appered in the modern fashion of the pluralistic society of the latter half of 20th century to understand that the product of societh such as fashion mode reflects the situation of society and culture. For this purpose, documentary studies about the concept and background of neo-classicism, were preceded, and analyzed the occurrence background and characteristic of neo-classicism of the modern fashion after the 1980's, which showed up in post-modernism fashion. The characteristics of neo-classicism expressed in modern fashion is as follows; First, they are expressed in modern fashion in forms of simplicity by means of minimizing process of sewing or ornamenting and deletion of dart. Second, retro-style in terms of concerning of the past, is featured in various styles of Greco-roman drapery and expresed in forms of mixing clothing elements of modern and classic in modern times. Third, the trend of ecology in terms of interest of the nature and the thought that the spiritual world is more important than the material world. It is expressed by using natural elements adn natural materials, which wanted to get the nature and human into one and search for the losed nature of modern men. Fourth, the pursuit of the beauty of the human body, is expressed in forms of body-prioity style through using see-through or elastic materials, which is knit, lycra, spandex, etc. In conclusion, we can recognize that the social product reflects social and cultural situation. And the characteristic of neo-classicism has the meaning of harmonizing the human and nature and the returing the humanity.