Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.7.837

A Study of Fashion Influenced by Dystopian Ideas  

Kwon, Sanghee (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University)
Ha, Jisoo (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles / v.37, no.7, 2013 , pp. 837-851 More about this Journal
Abstract
This study investigates the relationship between dystopian ideas and fashion since the $20^{th}$ century and examines the social meaning of fashion influenced by dystopian ideas. From the 1900s to the 1950s, the idea of dehumanization by authoritarian governments and technology gave rise to fashion for freedom and self-introspection, which includes surrealistic fashion and beat style. In the 1980s and 1990s, a society marked by monopolistic power and the hi-tech control of humans was regarded as dystopia. It influenced a fashion that expressed dehumanization by hi-tech means such as cyberpunk style and designs that depicted or used electronic elements. The ongoing fear of ecological disaster since the late $20^{th}$ century also influenced designers to present collections concerned with environmental problems. Designers have created designs with printed messages on environmental issues or designs that express environmental devastation, and protective designs that use hi-tech fabrics or mechanical devices. Fashion influenced by dystopian ideas expressed contemporary fears, provided a critical view of society through defamiliarization, and sought problem-solving actions and alternatives to change or cope with the dystopian situation. Dystopian fashion gave society a chance to face contemporary problems and pursue a better society.
Keywords
Dystopia; Dystopian idea; Fear; Critical view; Problem-solving actions and alternatives;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Agha, M. F. (1936, November 1). Surrealism, or the purple cow. Vogue, pp. 60-61, 129-131, 146.
2 Ange Deforme. (2009). Givenchy RTW 1999 fall. Angedefor-me.com. Retrieved June 29, 2013, from http://angedeforme.com/2009/12/06/givenchy-rtw-1999-fall/
3 Baccolini, R., & Moylan, T. (2003). Introduction: Dystopia and histories. In R. Baccolini & T. Moylan (Eds.), Dark horizons: Science fiction and the dystopian imagination (pp. 1-12). New York and London: Routledge.
4 Banham, R. (1990). Theory and design in the first machine age (J. H. Yoon & Y. S. Ji, Trans.). Seoul: Sejinsa. (Original work published 1980)
5 Blanks, T. (2011, March 1). Fall 2011 ready-to-wear Chalayan review. Style.com. Retrieved May 8, 2011, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2011RTW-HCHALAYA
6 Bowles, H. (1999, December). Avant-garde designer of the year: Alexander McQueen. Vogue, p. 161.
7 Buxbaum, G. (Ed.). (2005). Icons of fashion: The 20th century. Munich: Prestel.
8 Camus, A. (1946, July 1). The crisis of man. Vogue, pp. 86-87.
9 Chalayan.com. (2007). 2007 AW airborne. Chalayan.com. Retrieved June 29, 2013, from http://chalayan.com/collection/view/album/id/33
10 Chenoune, F. (2005). Jean Paul Gaultier. New York: Assouline.
11 Cooper, N. (1998, September). Maximum security. Vogue, p. 254.
12 Davis, D. (1984, November). Nuclear visions. Vogue, pp. 196-200, 202, 204.
13 Donawerth, J. (2003). Genre blending and the critical dystopia. In R. Baccolini & T. Moylan (Eds.), Dark horizons: Science fiction and the dystopian imagination (pp. 29-46). New York and London: Routledge.
14 Esquevin, C. (2012). The look of blade runner. Silver Screen Modiste. Retrieved July 3, 2013, from http://www.silverscreenmodiste.com/2012_06_01_archive.html
15 Evans, C. (2003). Fashion at the edge: Spectacle, modernity and deathliness. New Haven and London: Yale University Press.
16 Firtstviewkorea. (2007). Undercover 2007 F/W. Firstviewkorea.com. Retrieved September 15, 2010, from http://www.firstviewkorea.com/Collection/ImageViewPop.aspx? Season=SS014&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=494&Cate=CC001
17 Gillis, J. (2011, November 18). U.N. panel finds climate change behind some extreme weather events. The New York Times. Retrieved December 7, 2011, from http://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/19/science/earth/un-panel-finds-climate-change-behind-some-extreme-weather-events.html
18 Goodman, D. (2008). A history of the future. New York: The Monacelli Press.
19 Hart-Davis, A. (2007). History. New York: DK Adult.
20 Herman, J. (2007, August). Tech-tiles. Vogue, pp. 574, 586.
21 Holding Pattern. (2008, March 16). Metropolitan Museum of Art Blog. Retrieved June 29, 2013, from http://blog.metmuseum.org/blogmode/2008/03/16/holding-pattern/
22 Jones, S. (Ed.). (2006). Encyclopedia of new media (J. H. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Communication Books. (Original work published 2002)
23 Hoppenstand, G. (2005). Editorial: Dystopias R US. The Journal of Popular Culture, 38(6), 987-989.   DOI   ScienceOn
24 Horsting, J. (1987, November). Vernon Wells the spectre of wez. Starlog Issue, 123, pp. 60-65, 87. Retrieved July 15, 2013, from http://madmaxmovies.com/mad-max-magazine-archive/movie-magazines/starlog/index.html
25 Hughes, R. (1991). The shock of the New (K. D. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Mijinsa. (Original work published 1981)
26 Kim, K. H. (1998). 신보수주의의 이념과 정책 [Ideology and policy of neo-conservatism]. 윤리 연구, 40(1), 43-72.
27 Kim, M. J. (2004). 복식미학 강의 1 [Esthetics in dress 1]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
28 Kim, S. A. (2010). Surrealistic technique expressed in the 21st century fashion styling. Unpublished master's thesis, Konkuk University, Seoul.
29 Kim, S. B. (1999). 20세기 패션 속에 나타난 미래 이미지의 역사: 패션과 미래 이미지의 상관성 연구 [A history of the future image in the 20th century fashion: A study on the relationship between fashion and future image]. 한성대학교 논문집, 23(2), 60-61.
30 Korean Association for Studies of Philosophical Thought. (2007). 철학을 만나면 즐겁다 [Philosophy is interesting]. Seoul: Booksum.
31 Kwon, T. H., Jo, H. J., & Han, S. J. (2000). 정보사회의 이해 [Understanding information society]. Seoul: Mirae M&B.
32 Lee, G. H. (1997, May 20). '2000년 문제' 대응 분주해진 '컴' 업계 [Millennium bug makes the computer business busy]. Kyunghyang News, p. 31.
33 Lee, E. (2011). Research on multi brand shop facade design by the 'defamiliarization' expression technique. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul.
34 Lee, S. K. (2013, February 15). 환경이 미래다 [Environment makes the future]. Maeil Kyungje. Retrieved June 29, 2013, from http://epaper.mk.co.kr/Viewer.aspx?exec=viewsearch&GCC=AB00699&CNo=133771175
35 Lee, I. S. (2007). 세상이 두려워한 유토피아 이야기 [Utopia, the fear of the world]. Seoul: Woongjin Thinkbig.
36 Lee, J. H. (2000). 인터넷과 사이버사회 [Internet and cyber society]. Seoul: Communication Books.
37 Lee, S. (2005). Fashioning the future: Tomorrow's wardrobe. London: Thames and Hudson.
38 Lee, Y. K. (2011). A study on the existential meaning of black fashion expressed by beat style. Unpulished master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul.
39 Leggett, C. (1990, March). Natural selection. Vogue, pp. 470-477, 524.
40 Levitas, R. (1990). The concept of utopia. New York: Philip Allan.
41 Mad Max Online. (2005). Mad max movie datasheets. Mad Max Online. Retrieved September 6, 2010, from http://www.madmaxonline.com/moviedata.htm
42 McDowell, C. (2000). Jean Paul Gaultier. New York: Viking Studio.
43 Martin, R. (1987). Fashion and surrealism. New York: Rizzoli.
44 Mendes, V., & Haye, A. (2010). Fashion since 1900. New York: Thames and Hudson.
45 Minott-Ahl, N. (2009). Dystopia in vanity fair: The nightmare of modern london. The Literary London Journal, 7(2). Retrieved September 20, 2012, from http://www.literarylondon. org/london-journal/september2009/ahl.html
46 Mower, S. (2004, November). The natural. Vogue, p. 200.
47 Mower, S. (2007a, February 26). Fall 2007 ready-to-wear Undercover review. Style.com. Retrieved August 30, 2010, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2007RTWUNDERCOV/
48 Moylan, T. (2000). Scraps of the untainted sky: Science fiction, utopia, dystopia. Boulder: Westview.
49 Mower, S. (2007b, February 28). Fall 2007 ready-to-wear Chalayan review. Style.com. Retrieved August 30, 2010, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2007RTW-HCHALAYA/
50 Mower, S. (2009, October 6). Spring 2010 ready-to-wear Alexander McQueen review. Style.com. Retrieved August 30, 2010, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-AMCQUEEN/
51 Park, Y. S. (2008). 서양철학사의 이해 [Understanding the history of western philosophy]. Seoul: Cheolhakwa Hyunsilsa.
52 Phaidon. (2001). The fashion book. London: Phaidon.
53 Polhemus, T. (2010). Street style (New ed.). London: PYMCA.
54 Quinn, B. (2002). Techno fashion. Oxford: Berg.
55 Shin, D. Y. (2012, August 10). 지구촌 이상기후, 온난화의 재앙인가? [Is climate change the disaster of global warming?]. Hankookkyungje. Retrieved August 16, 2012, from http://www.hankyung.com/news/app/newsview.php?aid=2012081003211
56 Siroto, J. (1994, March). Future chic. Vogue, pp. 164, 172, 178.
57 Song, Y. K. (2000). A study of fashion through dystopia. Unpublished master's thesis, Sejong University, Seoul.
58 Strathern, O. (2007). A brief history of the future. New York: Carroll & Graf Publisher.
59 Style.com. (2007). Hussein Chalayan 2007 F/W. Style.com. Retrieved April 3, 2012, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2007RTW-HCHALAYA
60 Style.com. (2009). Alexander McQueen 2010 S/S. Style.com. Retrieved September 15, 2010, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2010RTW-AMCQUEEN
61 Toffler, A. (1992). The third wave (J. W. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Beomwoosa. (Original work published 1980)
62 Style.com. (2011). Hussein Chalayan 2011 F/W. Style.com. Retrieved April 3, 2012, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2011RTW-HCHALAYA
63 Sullivan, R. (2007, May). Earth to fashion. Vogue, pp. 128, 130, 132.
64 Tad, F. (1995, October). On the road again. Vogue, pp. 326-331, 372.
65 V&A Collections. (n.d.). Shoe hat. V&A Museum Homepage. Retrieved June 29, 2013, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O183849/shoe-hat-hat-schiaparelli-elsa/
66 Vogue. (1993, March). Donna Karan 1994 S/S. Vogue, p. 351.
67 WGSN. (1998). Givenchy 1998 F/W. WGSN. Retrieved June 29, 2013, from http://libproxy.fitsuny.edu:2269/content/wgsnms/catwalks/shows/1998/feb/cw1998feb16_99111/1.html
68 WGSN. (1999). Hussein Chalayan 2000 S/S. WGSN. Retrieved June 29, 2013, from http://libproxy.fitsuny.edu:2269/content/wgsn-ms/catwalks/shows/1999/jul/cw1999jul19_992311/6.html
69 Wilson, E. (1985). Adorned in dreams: Introduction. In M. Barnard (Ed.), Fashion theory a reader (pp. 393-397). New York: Routledge.
70 Wilson, R. G., Pilgrim, D. H., & Tashjian, D. (1986). The machine age in America, 1918-1941. New York: Brooklyn Museum.