• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.458-475
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• 2017

Opera is the most comprehensive musical art. In recent years, contemporary opera worlds has seen a variety of attempts to reinterpret operas of the past in a modern light. This has resulted in a dramatic change in the production of musical style and stage art. The purpose of the study was to modernize and streamline opera costumes by extending the scope of existing stage costume design, through the reinterpretation and application of the decorative elements in the Middle Age of Rococo, such as ruffles, frills, shirring, embroidery, buttons, etc., in such a way as to effectively communicate the moods of an opera to a modern audience. The costumes of the Rococo period were reinterpreted in a modern way, with the following results. First, in this work, the male main character was played by a bass to express the image of an older, lazy, rich man. A key element in modernizing the stage costume was selection of the costume color in such a way as to visually represent the voice tones sung by the major characters in the opera. Second, the maid hat and aprons were decorated with frills by applying the curves of Rocaille decoration from the Rococo period symbolize the role of the maids. This represented the distinction between occupation according to class and status at that time, while also expressing the ideals of modern feminine beauty. This makes for more comfortably-worn costumes, and is economical for production expenses. In the future, the stage costume design for classical opera will need to be revised consideration of a modern viewpoint.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.43-55
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• 2021

Unlike nail care, nail art is a field with strong decorative elements that decorate the surface of the nail. In line with the trend of the times, which freely expresses one's personality, nail art is establishing itself as a definite and a key area in the beauty industry. Currently, design creation and technology developments are important, with the release of various nail materials and new trends that spread through mass media. Despite the great developments in the nail beauty industry, there is a lack for nail artists. Due to this fact, it is considered a necessary to combine nail art with the contemporary art styles, which have various motifs of design, and to study nail art design using them. In response, this study selected art from the Rococo era, where delicate and colorful decorative elements were at their peak, to consider the artistic styles of the time and present them in various nail designs. This study would like to expand the scope of new nail designs by suggesting colorful and feminine designs to women, who are the main customers of nail salon. In addition, the purpose of this study is to provide nail artists with basic materials that can be used in creative ideas and expressions, such as 2D and 3D nail designs, and composite nail design art, which are the art areas for nail art.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This study intends to explore the collaborative expression in the modern fashion design by analyzing the collaboration of motifs symbolizing Korean cultural identity. As for the data research, in order to examine the expressional objects of collaboration in the collections of the fashion designers from Korea and overseas who have applied the Korean culture among their collections posted on the Internet sites, www.firstview.com, and www.style.com from 2005 to 2012 were collected for analysis. 923 pictures used in the analysis sheet. As for the research method, the content analysis method was used. In the modern fashion design, the collaborative expression in the motifs symbolizing Korean cultural identity are limited to tangible expression, intangible expression, integrated expression. The results of this study were as follows. First, in the tangible expression, traditional tangible assets are used in the shapes, items, colors, materials, patterns and details to symbolize uniquely Korean image. The intangible expression, the applicability for Korean intangible assets include the master's (intangible cultural assets) and the craftsmanship of the modern designers being collaborated onto the contemporary customs to express the Korean traditional culture in a realistic or an abstract trend. The hybride expression, it is to represent Korean thoughts and values using the tangible elements. Second, The expressivity of collaboration of each year mostly shows integrated expression, intangible expression and tangible expression were shown respectively. The trend of seasonal collaboration expressivity was muchly the integrated expression in most seasons, and intangible expression and tangible expression followed respectively. It is recognizable that the expressivity of collaboration of each designer was; integrated expression was muchly shown in Lie Sang Bong and Lee Young Hee's works, Duri Jung showed much of intangible expression, and much tangible expressivity was shown in Carolina Herrera.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.579-594
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• 2014

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late $20^{th}$ century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.463-474
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.595-603
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• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.81-96
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• 2006

Fashion is very superficial. However, it is expressed through the culture that is a cause of internal change and therefore its contents are defined by the cultural features. In this study, to study the aesthetic properties of the French fashion, the internal fashion contents are defined according to the cultural characteristics of France and based on the definition, the external features are investigated. The cultural characteristic was analyzed based on the reference literatures on the French culture. Based on the cultural characteristics of France, the aesthetical properties of the contemporary French fashion can be analyzed as follows: ${\cdot}$Dualism is the internal contents of the French culture with multiple sources, and it implies that opposing values such as female and male, traditionalism and modernism, simplicity and decoration are coexisting. Simplicity is pursued but decorative elements are in harmony and new phase of time is reflected while certain style has lasted for a long period of time to become a tradition. Furthermore, a rational trend combining masculinity and femininity, simultaneously exist with a trend that emphasizes feminine image. ${\cdot}$Multiculturism is a mysterious feature that has adapted the oriental or other cultural factors into the forms, patterns, colors and material of costumes. It has also been reconstructed with the French and the modern tastes. ${\cdot}$Avant-gardism is pursuing a novel aesthetic value against the former value system. It recognizes the human body as an object of figurative arts therefore emphasizes the body with geometric shapes to deny the fixed-idea, or engraft new materials and technologies to express the futuristic aspects.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.677-684
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• 2016

This study was done for the proposal for improvement for junior sportswear which is substitutable as uniforms in the form of elementary school and physical education uniforms by analyzing detailed features through investigation. Accordingly, we developed a prototype design for physical education uniforms as a symbol of the school to enhance the aesthetic and functional satisfaction. The results are as follows. When we developed physical education uniforms, we put activity on our first priority while taking the improvement in both aesthetic and functional aspects into consideration. In addition, we tried to make sure the uniforms reflect the refined and trendy elements to meet students needs to satisfy their aesthetic sense in dress. Reflecting the improvement proposals and preferences of the students, six different prototype designs were developed and evaluated on the basis of two concepts of "new basic" and "trendy". The highest ranking, the physical education uniforms design 1 is based on new basic concept and characterized with slim fit considering activity which will be worn as fall/winter physical education uniforms. Design 1 uses ottoman functional knit as a fabric material which is not only students favorite but also good in both flexibility and warmth. Top with style of high-neckline collar and full open zip-up is simplified with the incision lines and detail. It is a set-in sleeve design in which blue and yellow collars signifying school color are properly placed along with the incision lines in harmony.