• 복식
• /
• 제37권
• /
• pp.71-88
• /
• 1998

This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

• 복식
• /
• 제64권4호
• /
• pp.131-149
• /
• 2014

Tibetans are one of the ethnic Chinese minorities, and this research examined the characteristics and features of their traditional costumes by investigating their historical, geographical and cultural background. This research also examined the cultural elements according to their characteristics based on Tibet's nature, religion, arts culture such as the Jang-po, Chin-sam, Kam-kjun and belts, which are used to fix the costumes. Based on such studies the traditional Tibetan costumes were set as a motif and were expressed appropriately into a contemporary style. By studying the composition of its costumes and its costume culture, the characteristics of the Tibetan costumes could be classified into four features. First, the 'variability of form' expresses a new type depending on how it is worn. Second, the 'color contrast' shows a strong visual contrast. Third, the 'difference of materials' combines different materials into one. Fourth, the 'symbolic meaning' grants meaning to the wearer. As a result of this study, by using the characteristics of the Tibetan nature culture, religion culture and art culture as a basis, two suits of clothes for each characteristics and six suits of clothes were produced as a fashion design product.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권5호
• /
• pp.17-28
• /
• 2001

The purposes of this study were to arrange and analyze the Oriental Mode in 20th century fashion and to clarify that Oriental dress and its ornaments appearing as the main subject of Occident fashion gradually The results were as follows : First, Oriental Mode in 1900-1950s was prescribed as the 'Orientalism' to be expressed Occidental imperialistic viewpoint. Therefore, the Orient was used as the simple recording mark of the imperialism product or commercial motive and it was reflected in fashion. Second, it was explained in 1960-1970s as the 'Folklore Orientalism' that focus was moved into the folklore costume of Orient. Third, in 1980s, 'Ethnic' was conspicuous that reflected the traditional costume in the area of non-christianity. Especially, it was the decade that the Middle East attracted attention. Fourth, Oriental Mode in 1990s appeared as the 'Fusion' that Oriental and Occidental elements were mixed and compromised on equal terms. Fifth, it was expressed as a word 'Zen' that had natural fiber, moderate color and silhouette to be most basic and concise about human body at the end of 1990s. This study could confirm that the center of fashion was being converted into the Orient gradually. This may be understood as the pluralistic culture phenomenon. Namely, eclectic principle to recognize mutual style and individualistic nature and to utilize and mix was made, and this brought the conversion into Oriental sense of value.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권5호
• /
• pp.1061-1074
• /
• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제16권4호
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 2012

This study made an analysis on the relation and influence between outdoor wear benefit, clothing selection criteria and purchasing satisfaction. Survey was conducted targeting 20s-30s males and females who have experience of purchasing outdoor wear and 335 sheets of questionnaire were used for final analysis. And statistics package SPSS16.0 was used for analysis of collected materials. A group seeking the trendy brand turned out to give considerable thought to the brand and trend and purchase less than 100,000won at the discount outlet. A group pursuing functional practicality puts an emphasis on the activity and use, and purchases at the internet shopping mall or department store. Regarding material, function, design, style and color as important, a group pursuing individuality and appearance turned out to purchase clothing at various places such as discount outlet, specialty store and internet. A group that is indifferent to clothing appeared not to care about specific elements when selecting outdoor wear. The result of study showed that consumers of outdoor wear show purchasing satisfaction in respect of design, style, color or trend.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제13권3호
• /
• pp.271-280
• /
• 2000

복식은 조형적 구성의 측면에서 그시대의 예술양식을 수용, 표출한다. 최근에 이르러서는 복식과 예술분야가 통합적 조형양식으로 존재하면서 동시대적 사상이나 이슈를 반영할 뿐 아니라 여타 문화현상들과 상호의존적 또는 상호수정보완적 관계를 유지하고 있다. 따라서 일련의 전위적인 디자이너들에 의해 시도되고 있는 아방가르드적 현상으로서 해체주의적 현상을 밝힘은 그동안 논의되왔던 조형양식적 측면과 미학적 측면에서의 복식을 재조명하는 그 의의가 있다. 해체주의 패션은 모더니즘적 양식을 반박하여 형식이나 구성에 있어 전위가 몰형식과 비구조화의 형태를 띄고 있으며 그것은 외형적 구조로서만이 아니라 인식론이나 내재론적 측면에서도 이성적 주체관, 현전의 형이상학, 이분법적 사고의 붕괴 둥을 의미하는 것으로 현대패션이라는 커다란 흐름을 고유함으로써 상호보완적인 역할을 수행하고 있다. 즉 양식의 이종교배, 과거양식의 인식, 복합성과 모호성, 다양한 매체의 이용 등과 같은 패션 트랜드 속에서 재해석되고 변경, 수용되어 존재하고 있다고 할 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제19권3호
• /
• pp.536-547
• /
• 1995

The modernization of the fashion design in our country, like our chaotic modern history, has not been easy for us to grasp its main stream because it lacked historical consciousness and sincere attitude of creating. In trying to find out designs very Korean, designers usually ignore the deeply rooted ideologies and modes of our own, and primarily depend on the scattered fragments of tradition, such as the curled line of the ancient roofs, folk jackets and skirts, and Talcum, our ethnic dance, sometimes making some patchwork like clothes they divan't really intend to make. In the world of modern design, especially of the fashion industrial design, designs more scientific, more rationale and more positively appealing to the consumers, not the unconscious and emotional ones, are being demanded. To win in the fierce competing world of design as well call this age an age of "Design War", it is desirable for us to create our peculiar designs by uniting the internationalism (universality) and nationalism (traditionalism) together under a single rigid purpose. Analyzing the designs mainly of Korean style fashion designers since the 1980s, 1 could see that Korean designs in the aspect of appearance have a strong tendency toward applying or reviving the traditional elements, thus are under a bias toward nationalism rather than in ternationalism. The idea of "very Korean" does not mean a mere harmony or negotiation of the traditional elements with modern ones. It is rather a concept from vivid historical experiences of the conflict between the purely Korean mental, cultural heritages and the demands in mod- eradiation. Therefore, based on this concept of "very Korean" we must create fashions completely Korean and modern at the same time.n and modern at the same time.

• 복식
• /
• 제62권2호
• /
• pp.40-54
• /
• 2012

The significance of this research lies in the analysis of that appears in the comedy . It also aims to propose conceptual and analytical costume designs that emphasize the formal aspects of play by reflecting on the comical elements simultaneously. , the subject of this study, was played on November 12, 2009 at the Small Theater (Dalohreum Theater) in the National Theater as a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Suwon Women's College. The costumes were designed by this researcher and were produced in collaboration with the Creative Performances Research Institute (Suwon Women's College). The comic elements were categorized into deconstruction, deviation and unexpectedness according to previous studies on the humorous nature of comedy, and their aesthetic meanings were applied to the costumes. The designs that reflect the comic elements are as follows. The costume design reflecting deconstruction is a way that disassembles and recombines constructive aspects of clothing. It consists of seam margins outside or just left disassembled without sewing, dismantling the boundary of outerwear and underwear. The costume design reflects deviation because reformed shapes of collars, the variation of length and closure of skirts deviate from the traditional style. These are designed by distorting traditional designs with deviation and transcend of tradition. The costume designs the reflect unexpectedness integrates both tradition and the contemporary, and use materials of diversity and heterogeneity, and these are composed of external formats the result from incongruity. Because comic elements are metaphysical concepts that carry meanings that are difficult to define according to the country and period, it is required to analyze, organize and utilize their characteristics and meanings of each period. Since this study analyzed the comical elements of a play and applied them to costume design, it is hoped that a follow-up study of analytical costume design is be done, and that more diverse and more creative costume designs are in the next generation.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
• /
• 제12권5호
• /
• pp.134-143
• /
• 2012

1957년부터 시작된 미스코리아 대회에서 선발된 미스코리아들은 당 시대를 대표하는 공식적인 미인으로서 전 국민적 관심을 받아왔으며, 사회, 문화, 미용 예술학적 분야 등에서 지대한 영향을 미쳐왔다. 반면에 학문적 관심은 초기 단계에 머물고 있어, 일부 선행연구들 조차도 연구도구의 객관성과 용어의 통일성 등이 결여되어 있다. 본 연구에서는 미스코리아의 드레스 패션 스타일에 나타난 디자인 구성요소의 특징을 살펴보고, 시대별 유행경향과의 관계를 비교 분석하여 미의식 기초자료로서의 활용가치를 높이고자 한다. 본 연구는 1970년부터 2011년까지 미스코리아 시상식 드레스를 기준으로 해당 사진자료들을 수집하고, 관련 전공 교수들과 대학원생들의 예비조사와 본 조사를 거쳐 판독 분석하여 나온 의견을 토대로 연구결과를 도출하였다. 분석 결과, 미스코리아 드레스 패션 스타일에 나타난 디자인 구성요소의 특징들은 미스코리아의 사랑스럽고 지적이며 때로는 섹시하고 고급스러운 여성미를 돋보이고자 연출되었으며 시대별 유행경향과의 관계는 당시대의 웨딩드레스의 유행경향이 미스코리아 드레스에 많이 반영되었음을 본 연구를 통해 확인하였다.

• 문화기술의 융합
• /
• 제10권4호
• /
• pp.95-103
• /
• 2024

본 연구는 21세기 일본에서 가장 영향력 있는 패션 디자이너 중 한 명인 요지 야마모토의 작품을 고찰하였다. 이 연구는 파리 패션 위크(2019 F/W-2024S/S)에 전시된 요지 야마모토 여성 기성복 컬렉션에 초점을 맞췄다. 연구 방법에는 사례 분석 및 이미지 요약이 포함됩니다. 이 연구는 Yohji Yamamoto 브랜드의 발전과 디자인 스타일을 분석했습니다.VOGUE에서 2019 F/W-2024S/S 총 399장의 트랙 이미지를 다운로드하고 실루엣, 색, 소재 및 프로젝트 네 가지 측면에서 분석했다. 연구 결과에 따르면 이러한 미학 사상은 야마모토 요지의 독특한 미학의 핵심 요소로 브랜드 스타일의 형성에 중요한 역할을 한다.