• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.34-45
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• 2004

The purpose of the study was to investigate weaving, traditional dyeing, fiber material, pattern how carpet developing according to Turkey area for using the data that can rear to the export strategic industry for carpet production and development that is correct in culture. The result are followed: 1) Life of the age was expressed in color and pattern using according to geographical environment, climate, lifestyle, religion etc. 2) In the case of weaving, there is Kilim, Soumak that appears only weft on the surface as plane weaving without knot and carpet of knotted pile weaving and knot of carpet is duplex knot difference with carpet of the other country. 3) In the case of textile material, there is use most wool fiber that can get easily from breeded sheep by nomads. 4) In the case of dyeing, did the local traditional color to use dye extracting in dyeing material that can get easily in the area. Red that can extract in madder that can get easily in which area of Turkey, dark navy blue of indigo dye that indigo plant fermentation and cream beige that is wool's natural color were exposed representative traditional color of Turkey carpet. 5) Pattern was advanced uniquely as culture of the area; weaving person's sensitivity and desire are reflected through centuries. Amulet, riches ＆ honors, fecundity and happiness appeared most pattern in any area.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.420-426
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• 2006

Korean prior studies on smart clothing seeking complete mixture of clothing and computer with diverse functions in the ubiquitous environment were so mere, while there have been aggressive activities to develop diverse smart clothing products led by the relevant industries and universities in foreign countries. Given prospective growth of the smart clothing market, there should be customers' evaluation of functions and utility of and sensitivity to smart clothing as well. This study conducted a questionnaire to Korean customers in their twenties regarding their perception and liking of and willingness to use smart clothing, and examined the needs of new functions of smart clothing. As a result, the customers in their twenties turned out to like well-designed and comfortable clothing, and be exposed to diverse and continuous computing environment. Also, they have relatively low perception but considerably high liking of smart clothing, indicating their high willingness to use smart clothing products. They cited 'selectable functions' and 'mobile and convenient ' as merits, and 'too expensive' and 'easy to wash' as demerits of smart clothing. In the respect, they proposed many interesting smart clothing ideas, such as 'clothing with automatic temperature-sensing function, which gets higher heat- insulating function by tightening the textile structure in winter and higher ventilating function by loosening the textile structure in summer.' We hope the results of this study will serve basic data for development of more efficient smart clothing in the future.

• 복식
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• 제21권
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• pp.5-18
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to identify the architectural construction of Balenciaga's works. He was perfectionist in tailoring which was based on architectural thought, and couturier who could design, cut, sew and fit a whole gar-ment. Balenciaga has never followed any fashion trend but his own. He designed from within himself, according to his own sensitivity to fashion. Like Chanel, he mad clothes in which women can be comfortable, move in, and get on and off with a minimum of effort. He ap-plied radical shapes to flattering ends, for his clothes echoed movements and gestures, never determined them. He achieved the perfect harmony between the body and the garment, freeing the spirit of the woman within. Reflec-tion his respect for women, Balenciaga never contorted or restriced their bodies. He did not depend on hoops and petticoats to hold out the skirts of his evening dresses but on well-balanced, architectural construction. Therefore in order to identify the architec-tural consturuction, this study hypothesizes (1) the effect of mass and volume, (2) the ef-fect of weight and support, (3) the effect of complexity and simplicity, (4) the effect of line and rhythm etc. The architectural beauty of form in Balenciaga's works are especially based on simplicity and support.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.487-498
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to classify the lifestyles of 20's and 30's male consumers, identify the differences among the lifestyle groups, and analyze clothing values and buying behaviors according to the lifestyle types. The results of the study were as follows. First, as a result of cluster analysis to classify the lifestyles of 20's and 30's male consumers, 4 groups were identified as "adventurous and self-accomplishing type", "positive and socially active type", "active and trend seeking type", and "practical and information-oriented type". Second, 4 factors of Utilitarian Value were classified as "symbolism", "diversity of wearing purpose", "convenience of management", and "physical activeness". Third, 4 factors of Hedonic Value were extracted as "pursuit for confidence", "pursuit for sexual sensitivity", "pursuit for trend", and "pursuit for personality". Fourth, upon analyzing the differences of clothing values based on lifestyles, 4 groups considered the most important value as the pursuit of sexual sensibility. Fifth, the male consumers in 20's and 30's purchased to express individuality and made their own decision on buying the casual wear. Based on these results, adventurous and self-actualizing type and active and trend seeking type were 518 of 684 and represented male consumer in 20's and 30's.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.301-311
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• 2014

This study finds information about the image and improvements of hiking gear and examines the influence of heat moisture, psychology, tactile sensation, and mobility/pressure related properties on wear comfort. The relationships of the four related properties and personal characteristics (such as sex, age, BMI and sensitivity) were also checked. Questionnaires were distributed to 400 people in their 40s and 50s; subsequently, 260 were used for data analysis. The questionnaires were comprised of questions about the general hiking characteristics, images and improvements in hiking gear, influence of the four properties on wear comfort, and demographic characteristics. Data were analyzed by frequency analysis, correlation analysis, ANOVA, T-test using SPSS 21 IBM for Windows. The results of this study are as follows. It was shown that people in their 40s and 50s usually went hiking two to four hours with friends or family once to three times a month. Jacket had the largest number of wearing frequency, followed by pants, t-shirts, and inner wear. Consumers' images of hiking gear were positive and the demands for improvements in hiking gear were price, unique design, and vivid color. The order of influence of the four properties on wear comfort was heat moisture, mobility/pressure, tactile sensation, and psychology related properties. The four properties of wear comfort were not influenced significantly by consumer sex, age, BMI, and sensibility.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.889-896
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• 2016

This study aims to evaluate the hydrolytic activity of a commercial nitrilase and optimize nitrilase treatment conditions to apply eco-friendly finishing on acrylic fabrics. To assess the possibility of hydrolyzing nitrile bonds in acrylic fabric using a commercial nitrilase, the amounts of hydrolysis products, ammonia and carboxylate ions, were measured. The treatment conditions were optimized via the amount of ammonia. The formation of carboxylate ions on the fabric surface was detected by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and wettability measurements. After nitrilase treatment, ammonia was detected in the treatment liquid; thus, nitrilase hydrolyzed the nitrile bonds in acrylic woven fabric. The largest amount of ammonia was released into the treatment liquid under the following conditions: pH 8.0, $40^{\circ}C$, and a treatment time of 5 h. The formation of carboxylate ions on the acrylic woven fabric surface by nitrilase hydrolysis was proven by the increased O1s content measuring of XPS analysis. From comparison of the results of nitrilase and alkaline hydrolysis, the white index and strength of the alkali-hydrolyzed acrylic fabric decreased, whereas those of the nitrilase-hydrolyzed samples were maintained. The nitrilase hydrolysis improved the sensitivity of acrylic fabrics to basic dye similarly to alkaline hydrolysis without the drawbacks of yellowing and decreased strength caused by alkaline hydrolysis.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.583-599
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze movie costume of main character and find design characteristic and historical spirit focusing on the movie, in which Ishioka Eiko, Japanese movie costume designer constructing unique design world, participated. The study captured images of three movies such as , and with Digital Multimedia Converting System and analyzed them by focusing on the pictures showing designer's intention and design characteristic well among acquired 319 pictures. The costumes addressing movie costume designer's sense of values are recreated as future-oriented new works and are expressed as creative costumes by acquiring inspiration from past factors, dissolving them and applying up-to-date technology. Movie costume shall reflect historical spirit of our age as movie shows social cultural trend including fashion trend of manufactured age. Ishioka Eiko has searched for the design, which is proper for three principles such as 'be unique', 'be eternal' and 'be innovative' and from the result of analyzing movie costume, it is found that she showed characteristics of symbolism(transmission of the sensitivity), ornamentalism(effective representation as a decorative effect attention) and multiculturalism(harmony of time and culture) as well as uniqueness. The movie costume are different mutually and create new hybrid culture, in which different costume cultures are mixed with current costumes without the restriction to other culture. It is proper for the age of globalization and localization so it is expected that the multiculturalism will be enlarged more.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.127-143
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• 2012

This study aims to derive the sensitive image analysing the color tones based on the web-sites of cosmetic brand and to know how the web-site color tones and the color tone image as visual factor for information transfer do influence the effective communication. 10 cosmetic brand web-sites are selected based on the pre survey, and the main page color tones of cosmetic brand web-site are analyzed by Color Catch and Munsell Conversion program, whereas the composition of color tones and color image such as the main trend colors, secondary colors, accent colors and etc are analyzed by a graphic professional program 'Adobe Photoshop'. 5 color tone groups are classified as Black&White, Green&White, Blue&White, Purple&White and Red&White according to the color distribution chart, and the emotional language is derived applying them to the pre research and IRI image scale. The color association is empirically analyzed by a survey method. The study results finally show Black&White is proper for expression of high quality and modern image, Green&White for pure and clean image, Blue&White for cool and transparent image, Purple&White for mysterious and elegant image respectively. This study results are necessary for plan of color delivering the strong transferring power of visual information the time when to make the effective web-sites, and it hopefully will be utilized as the basic data for the color marketing to actively express the brand identity and to satisfy the consumers' sensitivity.

• 대한기계학회논문집A
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.109-117
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• 2004

Optimization has been successfully applied to systems with a single discipline. As many disciplines are involved in coupled fashion, MDO (multidisciplinary design optimization) technology has been developed. MDO algorithms are trying to solve the coupled aspects generated from interdisciplinary relationship. In a general MDO algorithms, a large design problem is decomposed into small ones which can be easily solved. Although various methods have been proposed for MDO, the research is still in the early stage. This research proposes a new MDO method which is named as MDOIS (Multidisciplinary Design Optimization Based on Independent Subspaces). Many real engineering problems consist of physically separate components and they can be independently designed. The inter-relationship occurs through coupled physics. MDOIS is developed for such problems. In MDOIS, a large system is decomposed into small subsystems. The coupled aspects are solved via system analysis which solves the coupled physics. The algorithm is mathematically validated by showing that the solution satisfies the Karush-Kuhn-Tucker condition.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.730-738
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• 2012

This study proposes a process to design and analyze stage costumes by design elements for the costumes of the Korean traditional music cantata 'I Will Rise'. This study states fundamental references to make costumes of similar performances in the future and develop costume designs based on the format of a play. The findings are as follows. First, the costume production process of 'I Will Rise' is conducted in the order of directing intentions and script analysis, costume design, miniature production, costume production, costume modification, run, and post-production. Second, an overall Korean silhouette is expressed through the creation of costumes based on the construction of Korean traditional clothing (hanbok); however, from a detail perspective, a modernistic sensitivity is expressed through the use of modern elements (wing shoulders attached to shoulders, narrow ribbons made in a string form, and wristlets and belts) not found in hanboks. Third, tie-dying is applied to the costume colors of each character to highlight the traditional and unique feeling of dye and symbolic colors that effectively represent each role used to communicate the storyline and character emotions to the audience. Fourth, materials for costumes are cotton and linen (frequently used to create the texture of a Hanbok) as the costume of each character is emphasized to the use of additional and detailed materials such as artificial leather, hemp, and silk.