• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.793-809
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• 2013

This study examined the trend and aesthetic value of image fashion of the 21st century through empirical case study with image media as fashion communication tool. This research is intended to provide the basic material for both better comprehension of image fashion as emotional medium in the modern fashion and more activated research on interactivity and communication in the fashion communication area by examining how fashion designers deliver their design philosophy, thought and vision via image fashion. For the research method, the theoretical study was realized about image media and fashion communication with focus on related literature and precedent research. Also, the empirical study was performed about image fashion covering 2005 through 2012 by the group of fashion film, fashion animation, and video look-book. Fashion image in the research was developed into various layouts that include the story based or non-story based creative images, many kinds of episode or behind-the-scenes story in the prep course of collection, designer's personal life or product world, or re-cutting course after collection. It also played a communicative role for public relation of new product ad, concept conveyance of seasonal collections, means as online collection to substitute for the existing offline collections, and better understandings of designer or fashion brand. Aesthetic values derived from case analysis of image fashion in the modern fashion of 21st century appeared in the form of trans-boundary as convergence art, fantasy in harmony with virtuality and reality, and interactivity among the humans, image media and fashions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.367-384
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• 2016

The aim of this paper is to examine relationship characteristics and the relevance there of in the context of the Chanel collection, between the contemporary fashion show viewed from the artistic side and intermedia on interaction. This study analyzed the relationship characteristics between intermedia and fashion shows by focusing on Chanel fashion shows from 2010 S/S to 2016 F/W as actual case. The results are as follow: First, participational accessibility indicates the experience of a designer and audience in active participation changing into passive participation. Second, audience immersion is represented by the perception of being involved by the audience in the place and acting. Third, conceptual symbolism is sending of messages through the designer's concept manifesting in the specific features of the design. Finally, expandability of media explains trans-boundaries in experimental attempts. It concludes that fashion show is a space where the audience can have visual as well as new knowledge and experience through multi-sensory channels. The Chanel collection which is considered a huge art project at the fashion show, showed a relationship between philosophy and the direction through season concepts and brands. The Chanel collection has brought a new experience through the convergence of communications and cultural media, such as music and art according to traditional brand image.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.771-783
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• 2008

In this paper, I studied the trends of naturalism reflected on the fashion trends in 2000s, and the design characteristics of naturalism showed in modern fashions, based on the information about women's wear trend serviced by www.samsungdesign.net. The analysis was focused on the Comme des Garcons collections, and the results are as follows. First, in modern society, the scientific and realistic concept of naturalism was being shifted to nature-friendly and actual concept which harmonized with nature conceived to be important in environments. Second, the interests on well-being and LOHAS introduced the actual naturalism, and the naturalism became a prominent trend at turning times to 21th century. Third, the concepts of naturalism showed in modern fashions could be categorized into ecology, primitive, retro and exotic trends. Finally, the Comme des Garcons collections did not follow a passing fashion trend only, instead they formed unformalized natural silhouette and details in the view of new analysis and philosophy of themselves. The silhouette represented a natural sense in harmony with colors of simple materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1302-1319
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate the means by which designers communicate their philosophies and messages through fashion exhibitions, which are one of the communication methods that use visual images, by focusing on the aesthetics of fashion exhibition design. For this study, previous studies related to design exhibitions were analyzed, in addition to the related theoretical background, by examining the existing literature and conducting an illustrative study on fashion exhibitions. Our illustrative study focused on the aesthetic meanings of exhibitions held by the fashion brand Maison Martin Margiela over the past 10 years. According to our analyses, the fashion philosophy of fashion designer Martin Margiela's was reflected by Maison Martin Margiela in the exhibition design. After studying the features of Maison Martin Margiela's exhibition design, the inner values of deconstructivism and mysticism and appearance techniques of trompe-l'oeil, white spirit and assemblage were observed. This study aims to supply basic data for an active research on consilience and communication conducted in fashion communication field through a fashion exhibition designed to be seen as a work, an objet of the exhibition. In-depth studies on the cultural and aesthetical aspects of fashion exhibitions should be carried out, not only based on the sense of sight but also the senses of touch and hearing. Next, theories should be established on fashion scenography, to consider the use of the space design of fashion shows, presentations and advertising and movies to communicate fashion.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.51-74
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• 2015

The purpose of this exploratory research is to study Cashin's fashion philosophy and to draw her design characteristics through analysis of her work. As a result of this research, 76 garment pieces were selected from the 180 Bonnie Cashin collections at the University of Cincinnati to document and evaluate. The final selection includes: sixteen jackets, fifteen skirts, five pants, five tops, seven dresses, twenty five coats, and three capes. Bonnie Cashin specialized in practical and functional; yet innovative designs such as leather trimmed tweed Jackets/coats, canvas raincoats, suede leather coats, and ponchos. Her trademark elements include toggle closures, oversized pockets, her Noh coats, tweed suits, canvas raincoats, fringed suede dresses, funnel neck pullovers, jersey dresses, and ponchos. She emphasized function and comfort and she believed that a good design must also be practical. The examination of these 76 pieces from the University of Cincinnati's private Bonnie Cashin Collection brings to light Bonnie Cashin's creative design and what she represented in the development of American fashion design in the $20^{th}$ century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.31-41
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to formulate a concept of naturalism in fashion and verify the design characteristics found in such designs via reviewing the concept of naturalism and its influence on dress making in different periods in history. The references from various academic fields including philosophy, literature and fine arts were used to examine how the naturalism was formulated over the years. This study was then to identify the naturalistic influences by closely examining various Western dress codes found in literature, publications and actual samples. The results of this study shows that the close examination of naturalism in fashion with the changes of times displayed the complex evolution process over the years, and they were classified by four distinctive categories; Retro, Ecology, Primitive and Ethnic. Naturalism in the contemporary fashion design showed higher frequency of adopting ecological and retro styles, especially retro style adoption being on the rise, combining wide range of partial components of each style. The color usage showed the skewed concentration on YellowRed, Red and Yellow colors with pale, light grayish and grayish tones.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.111-127
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to understand the importance of exterior influential factors and kunstwollen(artistic will) of fashion designer. In order to investigate the differences which based on periodic backgrounds, social influences, cultural actualities and kunstwollen, Vivienne Westwood, Issey Miyake and Hussein Chalayan who have different social and cultural contexts are selected. Also through this research, people would understand the clothes has the values as the art works which have philosophy of creator and recognize the importance of fashion as an intermediation for comprehension of history, society and culture. Vivienne Westwood presents her honor to British history and culture in the way of her unique interpretation. Also she expresses the authority and the pride of woman who lives in the present age. Issey Miyake accomplishes the harmony of human body and soul. He attains the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Hussein Chalayan produces his fashion works as a form of concept which is keep asking question about existence of human being. Fashion is the work of art which Is based on the relationship between clothes, human body and spirit. The fashion designer makes human life has value through his or her creations and tries to communicate with the world.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.873-882
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• 2010

Knitwear has become a part of fashion since aristocratic trend-setters of Medieval Spain and France began wearing luxurious silk stockings. However, in more recent times knitwear emerged as a fashion item in the early 20th century when jersey two-piece Channel dresses became popular amongst the French upper classes. Knitwear then evolved into genuine going out clothes through Sonia Rykiel in the 1970s. Sonia Rykiel has made a great contribution to developing knitwear, which she transformed from being used only in informal dresses or clothes for home wear, to a boarder in use in high-quality dresses such as those worn at parties. Unlike most designers who tend to make very different styles each year, she has restricted her clothes to those made with knitwear. The study examined the designs and formative characteristics of her knitwear in order to clarify why Sonia Rykiel's knitwear fashion is apparently so timeless. Results showed that her garments consistently used black oriented color combination, strife patterns, intarsia techniques and application of diversified subordinate materials and other materials that overcome earlier limitations of knitwear. In addition, her designs consistently express the typically Parisian sophisticated urban femininity through practicality, sensuality and playfulness. Overall, her fashion has shown that it exists for women in action through practical design within the scope of demode, the philosophy in her early days, and it has led her to hold great power over knitwear fashion for the past 40 years.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.62-75
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine how fine art is received in fashion, and to contribute to the development of a creative fashion culture. In order to do this examination, this study focuses on the formative ideas of De Stijl which appeared in the early 20th century. In addition, this study presents examples of today's fashion that still reflects the formative ideas of De Stijl. The De stijl movement did not last for a long time, but it has had significant influence on modern art, and has been a source of inspiration to fashion designers since the Mondrian look was presented by Yves Saint Laurent in 1965. The study on the basis of De Stijl such as Neo-Plasticism of Piet Mondrian and Elementalism of Theo van Doesburg, has been conducted in this study. As a result, this study presents formative characteristics of the De Stijl group in fashion as follows: First, contemporary fashion designers have searched for proportion and thickness of lines and the side split using lines, a stylistic trait of an artist in the De Stijl group. Second, color scheme defined by the De Stijl group has been applied with modification to contemporary fashion. Modification and selective choice of the limited colors are for a contemporaneous style. Third, formative ideas of De Stijl, which strives to achieve the vision of Utopia, has turned up in contemporary fashion as a simple and minimal silhouette. Contemporary fashion has enhanced their aesthetic value by deriving not only a superficial expression but also plastic principle and philosophy from De stijl. It can be regarded as the fashion's ideal way to embrace style of art and it might be so described as a key to edifying artistic and creative attributes of fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.687-702
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to study the inner meaning and formative with distorted and atypical Informel image, body image expressed in modern fashion. Method of the study is as follow. The study method examined philosophy of art 19th century?in order to consider interconnections between social and cultural characteristics of expressionistic abstract art, a form of Informel and changed physical style. Based on this method, the Informel image that appeared in the plastic arts in terms of artistic significance and aesthetic value was examined. Based on the above discussion on modern fashion Informel images were expressed in any formative characteristics were considered. The results of this study are as follows. Contingencies through the spontaneous act of art to transcend the image of atypical lines formed elements of coincidence, was developed. Liberation was expressed from liberation of physical boundaries and created outward expansion of the free formative. Atypical was organic forms pursuing spontaneous plasticity and diversity, and appeared in the form of distortion and deformation.