• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.165-179
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• 2002

This paper begins with the thesis that the so-called 'Be Slow' Movement has not only affected the contemporary life style but also the current fashion trend in the West as well as in Korea. The influence of the 'Be Slow' Movement on the everyday life of Western and Korean society can be documented by recent books, news reports, and many articles from various kinds of mass media and fashion magazines since the year 2000. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First. the 'Be Slow' Movement is a new cultural phenomenon and very different from that of the past century. It has emerged very recently and it could affect the life style o( its followers for a long period of time. Second, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on everyday life can be witnessed in many behavioral choices. such as the preference of organic food and natural cooking for food and the preference of rural life and a green patch of land for housing. Some aspects of the way of rearing the children and long-term planning of one's life are also under the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement. In a way. the life style Proposed by the 'Be Slow' Movement is somewhat similar to that of 'Bobos'. Third, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on the current fashion trend can be observed in the appreciation of time-consuming labour and increased usage of D.I.Y. clothing. The higher value of fashion goods with handcrafted part or scarce luxury item are good examples of the influence by the 'Be Slow' Movement. One can say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is not retrogression, but a re-creation of time and space to be grateful for one's life. Thus, it is not anti-technology but a commercialism with technology in order to enhance the quality of life and to place people in the center of production and consumption. Consequently, one may say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is a appropriate and affluent way of living.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.48-60
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the romantic costume style which has become a big trend before and after the 21th century. For this purpose, I examined the development plans and characteristics of women's costume in France in the Romantic period from the 1820s to the 1850s and analyzed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic costume style The aesthetic characteristics of romantic style in the 19th century were defined by the feminine and elegant beauty, exoticism, and sensuality. Since the 1990s, the characteristics are classified into Feminine & Elegant Style, Ethnic & Fusion Style, and Sensual Style. Feminine & Elegant Style is characterized by delicate, splendid lace and frill decorations that have become more ornamental and technical since the 1990s. They create greater romance and express gentler and more elegant femininity away from the artificial silhouette. Ethnic & Fusion Style use more diverse ethnic patterns, colors, accessories, and details since the 1990s and shows more varieties and creativity in convergence with modern fashion. Sensual Style exposes the physical curve of female body. In the 19th century, cuffs and collars were exaggerated and shoulders were exposed for sensuality. After the 1990s, however, see-through materials have been used to show the beauty of natural physical curves or corsets have been worn as the outerwear. Studying romantic costume style, which arose as a concept of postmodernism, the cultural ideology that exists as a breakthrough of our time, is signified by the understanding of the latest cultural phenomenon and fashion trends.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2013

The stage costume in theater, along with the stage art, is the element that has the biggest visual effect in helping the audience to understand the theater. Nevertheless, in the domestic theater production system, compared with the other public performance products, the stage costume has been rented or purchased due to the lack understanding of the importance of the stage costume and budget problem, and thus the role of the stage costume has been undervalued. Such a phenomenon is more noticeable in the small scale theater. However, in this play White Neutral Nation (Original: Andorra), the production team and the directing team recognized the importance of the costume in the early stage of production, and accordingly lots of efforts, such as staff meetings and budget allocation, were made for the stage costume. As a result, the entire production process of the stage costume could be examined. Recently, performance culture in Korea has made rapid progress and diverse forms of public performances are created and planned. Accordingly, the level of audience has been rising and the interest in the stage costume is also rising. So, it can be said that not only the stage costume but also the production system that makes it are important. This research examined the production process of the stage costume only of the play White Neutral Nation but it is considered necessary to make researches on the production process of the stage costume used for the theater of different themes and public performances of different kinds and to systematize their production process of the stage costume.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.45-54
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• 2013

With the development of digital technology, clothes of unique textiles using the digital printing techniques have appeared as a creative trend in textile design. The development of digital textile printing technology has allowed the fashion industry to utilize it as an expressive method of a surrealist trend in current fashion designs, and so it is necessary to understand and study this phenomenon. The present study is an attempt to understand this modern fashion phenomena from an artistic perspective by looking at textile designs that applied actual images to textiles, so that this trend in fashion design can be better understood. In this context, this study aims to examine characteristics and expressive techniques of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme associated with digital textile printing by using actual images among surrealist expressions, and to investigate creative expressions of textile design freely expressing the visual boundary between reality and surrealism with the development of digital technology. For research methods, we reviewed technical texts and previous studies related to our research topic for theoretical exploration and investigated the Internet data and used them for basic data. In the case study, we came up with the characteristics and meanings by classifying fashion design cases using digital textile printing techniques according to expressive techniques of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Details of this study are as follows: First, it investigates the definition and expressive characteristics of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme of the surrealist expression for its theoretical understanding. Second, it comes up with the characteristics by analyzing the digital textile cases from the perspective of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Third, it deduces the expressive methods and characteristics of digital textile printing from a the perspective of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme based on the resulting characteristics. The conclusions show that d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme, which consists of improvisation and coincidence, maximized the mysterious images of derealisation and mysterious primitive images. These things emphasized the characteristics of maximization of images, derealisation, and rationalization of irrationalism.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1019-1034
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to grasp creation background and social position of courtesan which is treated in social and cultural context and its effect on fashion and research representative courtesans from ancient hetaera to the 19th century and their costume characteristics. Its another purpose is to analyze the costume of Violetta, who is a heroine of opera and its costume characteristic as a courtesan. Most Courtesan clothing were made from bright color, silk and lace which were light, or transparent materials. Using silk and cashmere which were the symbols of class, she took the cutting edge fashion and struggled to break the social barriers. The clothing which the Courtesan wore always became a gossip among people and popular to the designers who could show their creativities because the Courtesan boldly wore the cloth like movie actresses or stars. The Courtesan who led the fashion not only showed the fashion as a simple expression of the beauty but also as a socio-cultural phenomenon which reflected their social awareness with arts, and changed according to the situations of the time and people. Violetta's party dress which was shown in the first and third acts of showed the shoulders and chest because of the deep and wide cut decollete, the waist was tightened with a corset as much as possible, and the opulent hips were inflated by the crinoline so when they walked it was swaying. Also it was decorated with splendid materials such as silk and lace, and sparkling jewels, fans, and neckless and even in case of the general clothing in the second act, it was decorated with braids and lace, frills and ribbons. In the third act, the weakness of the sick woman who was closing her life as the splendid Courtesan was emphasized by using colors of white and light purple and thin transparent materials.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2019

Modern family culture manifests various different social phenomenon due to shifts caused by increased societal response to industrialization in our country. It is noted that as our lifestyle patterns have shifted from being work-oriented to family-oriented, by focusing on the trend where there is an increase in families enjoying hobby and leisure activities together and where families go shopping together, I attempted to propose various different family-look' designs. In this research study we designed and planned family normal clothes designs that are required and desired for family gatherings and family events, and these designed were produced using 3D virtual clothing design software technology. The research method used the formative features of natural plants and textiles containing a symbolic motif as an element of design, and the creation of family formal clothes were designed and planned based on the method. The development of family formal clothes designs was implemented using CLO 3D virtual clothing design software. Because utilizing 3D virtual clothing design software enables prototyping various types of designs, silhouettes, fabrics and textiles, and color schemes etc. in a short amount of time, it was possible to utilize an advantage from using the software as leveraged to propose designs with a strong symbolic motif and symbolism . Also, by confirming and examining the strengths and weaknesses of the design process when using CLO 3D, It can improve the utilization of IT technologies, and this study aims to provide that efficiency.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.19-34
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• 2009

The purpose of this paper was to provide an overview of the existing literature on online visual merchandising and to propose an alternative theoretical framework in which online visual merchandising research can be conducted. Two streams of research including the e-tail service quality literature and the store environment literature from environmental psychology perspectives were reviewed in the context of online visual merchandising. An impression formation paradigm from social psychology was adopted to establish the alternative framework to supplement the existing online visual merchandising research and generate deeper insights into the online visual merchandising phenomenon.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2006

Che Guevara spearheading the Cuban Revolution was not only the icon as the revolutionary to the New-leftists of the 1960s advocating the ideology of Marxism but, as the cultural revolutionary, had a tremendous influence on the younger generation living in the digital age Che Guevara take on a figure of both the symbol of the Leftist but the romantic revolutionary because he had the external features such as black beret, red stars, military upper jackets and trousers, beard and pipe tobacco. In fact, the symbolic image of Che Guevara was made as the popular image by the avantgarde artists and political vanguard forces of the times under the necessity of Cuban government. Afterwards, the image of Che Guevara has been patronized in making people of aware of the resistant and revolutionary image to capital, power and the power of the media and symbolized as the resistant image to the American capital as well as the revolutionary guerrilla. And his image has continued to be reproduced and symbolized for the commercial and political purposes and as the enthusiastic image of youth culture. This can be seen as having been created as a new image by the popular culture formed by the development of the cyber culture and mass media in the cyberspace shaped by contemporary 'N' generations. The use of Che Guevara's symbolic image was made in the fashion field as well as in the cultural and artistic circles. The borrowing of the icon of Che Guevara represented in a fashion field is attributed to his free spirit, and it can be seen that fashion exists as the vehicle for representing both the symbol system and the sign system containing ideologies and texts as the communicator of resistance to the regime and to social issues. Therefore, this study attempted to investigate the commercial iconization of Che Guevara in the 1990s by comparing the ideology of the symbol in the 1960s and the 1990s and inquire into the borrowing of his image by the fashion domain as well as the fashion worn by him by reference to domestic books and materials on the fashion site. Thereby, this study attempted to make clear that the borrowing of Che Guevara in the realm of fashion since the 1990s not only contained the meaningful interpretation as the symbolic code in the culture of young people living in a digital era but fashion performs an intervening role in the cultural phenomenon.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.165-181
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• 2016

This study looks into the Korean traditional costume formation and the thoughts of the Korean people that form the foundation of that Korean traditional costume formation. And the goal of this study is in linking the thoughts and formative characteristics reflected in the Korean traditional costume formation to the fractal geometry, in an attempt to reveal correlation between Korean traditional costume formation which have existed for thousands of years to contemporary science of the West. The fractal theory that appeared as the new paradigm of contemporary science displayed similarities with the traditional ideologies of Korea, and the fact that formation principles of fractal appear in the formation of Korean costume, formed based on the Korean ideologies, show magnanimous capacity of the traditional Korean culture. When we look at the concept of fractal, the word fractal refers to the structure in which the shape repeats, where small structure is similar to the whole structure in form in endlessly repeating structure. In other words, 'fractal' means a structure that geometrically untangles the concept of 'self-similarity' which possesses the same shape in parts and in whole, and its major characteristics include 'self-similarity', 'circularity' and 'repeatability'. Korean costumes were formed based on the Han-thoughts, with a structure that possesses parts within the whole and the whole within parts, in accordance with the self-similarity theory of 'fractal'. This study compared studied fractal phenomenon which appear in formation characteristics of Korean traditional costume, which were formed based on the Korean traditional ideology, in other words, Korean costume formation and formation principles of fractal geometry were compared studied.