• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.197-204
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• 2000

With the current of the end of a century and social, economic, political, and cultural turbulence, people take advantage of the various ways to express their stagnation. This study introduces the term representativity and it will explain the men's fashion of the end of a century. On a theoretical basis, the concept of the representativity, image, symbol and imitation which are used as a tool for expression will be examined, and together with this, inner representation and outer representation will be categorized. The inner representation of the men's fashion in the end of a century can be taken for the purpose of connecting the image of masculinity. The image of masculinity is widely spread owing to the mass communication of a consumption-oriented society, so its hard to define that image as one thing specific. Hence, in order to discuss the male gender and mens fashion, New Man phenomenon should be noticed of. 1980's New Man influence has lasted till now. New Man images were largely categorized into two images like New Lad and Iron John after the mid 1990's. Therefore, the image of masculinity is largely classified New lad, who desires success and pursues the hedonistic life style and Iron John, who enjoys thrill and follows economical life style. The image of masculinity has influence on the outer representation how it is imitated and symbolized via many designer's works and street fashion. Two masculinity images are dominant over the men's fashion of the end of a century. One is inhumane and rational corporate power look that stems from symbolization and imitation of New Lad. The other is outdoor casual that originated from the symbolization and imitation of Iron John.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.84-100
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the meanings of signs represented in contemporary fashion based on the Peirce's trisection theory in order to present various types of sign representation that satisfies aesthetic value and characteristics of the age of information and image. Types of signs represented in contemporary fashion can be summarized into letters, numbers, codes, pictures, logos, characters and emblems. The meanings of signs were analyzed based on the Peirce's trisection theory, resulting in representation of play, brandsymbol, eroticism and suggestion. The play was categorized into infantile and parodic. The former inspires unexpected interest and laughter from contemporary people in the age of disorder through humorous characters, cartoons and illustrations. The latter inspires laughter by parodying things and it's intention is to release the isolation of people and their relative poverty through pictures for which techniques of parody and surrealism were used. Most of the brandsymbols represented by logos, used for textile and clothing design as well as accessories are optimal signs that construct brand images. Eroticism means emotion, impulses, senses of value and sexual attraction. A desire to represent sexual attraction is an expression of eroticism and self-expression to adjust in a changing society. Suggestion tends to pursue the image of harmony with nature in a world which is pressed by material civilization. Humans represent illuminating messages through direct slogans by characters, natural objects and motives of social phenomenon in pursuit of the benefits of abundant material civilization in the structure of a highly advanced scientific civilization and industrial society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.41-54
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• 2002

This study discusses the beauty of the ideal body shown by fashion communication media, and explains how aesthetic aspects of, the body are being expressed in contemporary fashion. The beauty of the body may be considered as the beauty of sexual, controllable or consumable object. First. the most vigorously discussed point about the body is its sexual aspect, the most outstanding of which is the voluptuous and the androgynous beauty in contemporary fashion. Second, the body is an object which has been oppressed or controlled under the name of history. morality. and rationality. The things making us regard the body itself as an aesthetic object may be considered as dynamic and functional beauty Third, the sexual instinct and the body are fetishized as consumer goods, and women's bodies are presented as comsumer objects whose most parts could be restored to exchangeable value. The consumable beauty presented in contemporary fashion is the conspicuous beauty and the decadent beauty. So far, the various aspects of the beautiful body has been considered, based on the beauty of the ideal body shown by the fashion communication media. Man exists through on his body. but it is the embodied and formed body that serves as a means to manifest his social status and cultural ties. A natural body is reformed as a cultural phenomenon in various artificial ways. Popular culture has transmitted a series of new body image by creating and reproducing symbols and images, and has made the ideal body. Now there is not only one standard for the ideal beauty in our society. The standard of the beauty has changed continuously. There has been an aesthetic sense which can represent the times during the process of those changes. The various communication media have played a role of mirror reflecting those changes. The ideal body in contemporary times is no more an abstract media to express classical beauty, but an object directly affecting us, who are living in the crisis of subjectivity and identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.72-85
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• 2008

With the new millennium setting in, our society is plowing its way through more drastically changing currents than ever. Nowadays, many people believe that high tech such as the Internet, digital civilization, the IT revolution, bio-industry, and the genome project, that has brought humans material prosperity, is the right change in direction. However, the more we adopt high tech into our lives, the more we desire high touch in order to achieve a balance. In other words, we need something to act as a ballast to stabilize our minds. As such, the more high tech develops, the more individuals miss and search for tools that appeal to their emotions. Because of this, although high touch is an opposite concept to high tech, it coexists with high tech, and it is defined as "human contact of high sensitivity that stimulates the emotion of humans". High Touch, a term which originated from "High Tech, High Touch", a book written by American futurist John Naisbitt, refers to human contact that makes human life richer, forminga deep impression on individuals and providing comfort. As such, high touch, which is gaining significant attention in modern society, is a phenomenon occurring throughout politics, society, culture, art, and religion, together with high tech. Through high touch, modern people must realize how to understand and accept a modern society that is dominated by the age of technology and in which direction they should head. Under this background, this study has the following objectives: to interpret the concept of high touch in the age of high tech in association with formative art and fashion, and through various media examine the desire for expression that may stimulate emotion in modern people, which is required by the high tech-prevalent modern society. It further analyzes how high touch is reflected in modern fashion and presents the direction future fashion should head in.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.6 s.220
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• pp.23-34
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• 2006

Graffiti has been recognized as an art form since the influence of free, black culture and Neo-Expressionism in the 1980s, though Graffiti remains the subject of controversy both inside and outside the school Modem Art. Jean Michel Basquiat is the most famous Graffiti artist of the '80. He was regarded as the genius and star of American art, leaving a lot of experimental and creative works during his short, 9-year, creative period. In his works, Basquiat well expressed the isolated and dark shadows in the U.S., the pursuit of self identification, the purpose of expression and the epochally social phenomenon. The purpose of this study is to investigate the application of Jean Michel Basquiat's Graffiti to fashion painting. To achieve this purpose, we present a lot of fashion painting works which apply Jean Michel Basquiat's Graffiti by focusing on autographic experience, racialism, cartoon themes, monely value, and anatomical death in the characteristics of Basquiat's works. Through this process, we can express and apply Basquiat's Graffiti to fashion painting by analogizing the themes and modeling the methods of his works, such as childish and simple features, intentionally wrong spellings and sentences, and symbols of death including skeletons, intestines, bones and teeth. In addition, Basquiat's techniques are examined in this study, including the representational handling of a brush, primitive and strong colors, and maximized shape. This study found that fashion painting can juxtaposes art and fashion by expressing Jean Michel Basquiats' Graffiti.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.261-265
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• 2002

To propose a basic material that can improve the crumples in the knee area and can be applied as an element of garment design, the present study examined the elongation rates of the samples by differentiating the number of cutting lines according to the direction of the fabric, and then determined the puckering phenomenon by judging the conditions of the seams based on the looks of seam lines after bi-axil elongation. After the subjective evaluation on the knee areas of both the standard and modified trousers, the following conclusion was drawn : The elongation rates of the samples are: warp (3.98%)cross-legged (-0.2)>squatting down (-0.4); those in the modified trousers feel more comfortable when sitting on a chair (0.2)>cross-legged (0)>squatting down (-0.6). In the cross-legged posture, the modified trousers (0) has higher scores in the subjective evaluation than the standard ones (-0.2). The evaluation on the looks of needleworks in the samples with cutting lines along the direction of the fabric: weft2 (5.0)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.126-141
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the works of choreographer Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$ and the performance costumes designer Philippe Guillotel, and identify the intrinsic values shown in the formative characteristics in their works. And it proposes a vision and a direction for the development and performance of modern fashion phenomenon of media convergence performing arts complex. The results were as follows. First, the performance characteristics shown in Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$'s art pattern applies dynamic improvisation, decategorization reflected in the media interactivity, time and space of a variable scalability, complex artistic genres and transcends cultural boundaries. Second, the characteristics of the performance costume can be described as a co-existence between dynamics of aesthetic layers, 'Media body' represented by the interaction of the compounds with the technology, and integrated variable expandability. And aesthetic values inherent in the performance costumes are summarized as abstraction, playfulness, reproducibility, and theatricality. Modern fashion performance and limited production of the center 'costumes' in the fashion images can be used in diverse ways, and innovative marketing has gone through a change in image production. Metaphysical text of the advanced performance genre can be presented in a new perspective to fashion derivatives 'Media body'. And the aesthetics of popular culture kitsch, the grotesque, and surrealism in theater will produce creative stage direction.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.63-70
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• 2006

This study is a review of the clothing behavior of kidult group that is a new minority group in 21st century. Kidult is the compound word of kid and adult and refers the persons who have become adults but with the inclination to focus on childlike culture and consumption. As the background of the appearance of the kidult group these days, the prevalence of throwback fashions, high valuation of appearance, the phenomenon to prefer light things caused by economic depression, the individualism that does not care about others and the ageless phenomenon that the consumptions are mind age oriented, may be pointed out. The most prominent cloth behavioral characters of the kidult group are that they enjoy bounding color combinations such as candy color and. that cute t-shirts, crop pants and volume skirts of girlish look are easily found. Also, they enjoy toy-like ornaments and illustrated clothes or accessories and the school uniform fashion implying nostalgia for girl-hood and lovely make-up indicate the kidult inclination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.34-49
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• 2009

Carnival is an allowed chance to express ordinarily suppressed and overlooked emotions. Especially with strong meaning of daily overthrow masks, masquerades, and mask-costumes are essential for expressing methods and festival personality reasons. Carnival in modern society without losing a significant portion religion in a format suitable for the era of secularization and the transformation has been created of nothing, that is not a reflection of society is also a cultural phenomenon of its own internal social and external conditions through a variety of means can analogy cultural phenomenon is a stage. The purpose of this research comes from the carnival festivities, religious background, but the daily routine of life to know who joined his escape with the conduction of the role, going to enjoy the satire and humor, using the Dress to the eruption, which means that the form of the festival variety of analysis and with the victory of the expression of cultural phenomena and features on the festival and the dress for you should you wish to study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.812-825
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• 2015

This study explored various issues related to the quality-of-life for obese Korean men. In-depth interviews were conducted with thirty men over BMI 25 whose age ranged from 20's to 50's. Projective techniques along with semi-structured interviews were used. The results of interviews were analyzed based on grounded theory. "Stress" was the main phenomenon resulting from the causal conditions of obesity and stigma. Stress consisted of social, psychological, physical and environmental factors. Contextual conditions mediating the relationship between causal conditions and main phenomenon were obesity level, pressure, and public appearance. Avoidance, change of personal traits, and insensitivity were the action/reactions to the main phenomenon. Various factors due to obesity disappeared and quality-of-life increased when they succeed in weight reduction; however, factors related to obesity and lowered condition of quality-of-life continued if they experienced a weight gain/loss yo-yo.