• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1454-1465
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• 2011

Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2010

Recently, young men have become more muscular, as they have become increasingly more interested in health and their physical appearances. The trend these days is to wear slim suits to accentuate their figures. Men's pants are the one of the most general clothes which men wears. While pants are an ordinary item of clothing, most muscular men have fitting problems with ready-made pants. In view of this, this study aimed at developing a prototype pants pattern for muscular men. In this study, five muscular men were selected for wearing tests. The regression formulas, in which muscular men's body measurements were adopted, were applied to unsuitable body parts, especially the body parts determined inappropriate based on the results of the existing pants pattern wearing tests. After going through the first and second pants pattern wearing tests, the final pants patterns were developed that were suitable for muscular men. The results of the study were as follows: In order to solve the problem of the insufficient of ease due to the development of the hip muscles, the crotch length was made longer, (0.08${\times}$hip circumference+17.648)+1.5cm and front crotch width and back crotch width were made wider, 1.0cm each than those of the existing pants prototype patterns. The ease of 0.5cm was added to the hip circumference/4+2.5cm because of the development of the hip and thigh muscles.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.37-46
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• 2011

To design a beautiful hood fitting an unspecific individual, focusing on body parts such as the head, neck and shoulder requires body size and type information, which applied by physical factors like size, types, and movements, etc. These parts consist of complicated types and structures. Accurate information should be a priority due to great individual differences and low correlation with other body parts. However, there is not a lot of detailed physical information nor design methods for hood design. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to select a study sample "hood" which is a recently emerging fashion item and to expand the necessary physical information for pattern design and draw body size of wearing part on Hood like head, cerbical portion and shoulder. Extract factors to consist on types and after divided into several types, a study comparing each type's physical characteristics was conducted. In order to do that, body measurement data have been collected by statistical treatment and analyzed reference with statistical treatment. The results of the study are predicted to be important data to develop various hood designs for the recent fashion trend. Factor analysis was conducted through main composition analysis about direct measured item on human body and index items. The results of factor analysis, composed factors of body type in this research object were extracted in total of 3 factors. To categorize the head, neck and shoulders of women in their early 20s women and determine their characteristics, variances with factor analysis became operative for Cluster analysis. With these clusters, women in their early 20s were categorized into three types. The results of this study are considered to affect largely for higher physical suitability on unspecified individuals when allowed absence of reference and the fact that body size only limited to item 'head circumstance' in terms of making hat and hood in the case of recent Korea. For the future, an experimental study of hood production should be conducted by using basic data from this study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.43-59
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to compare knitwear design preferences and purchase behaviors of university students by sex. The subjects were 493 university students in Daejeon and Gongju provinces. The research method was a survey and measurement instruments were 16 stimuli which were manipulated of knitwear shape and self-administrated questionnaire (knitwear design preference items, knitwear favorite image items, purchase behavior items and subject' demographic attributions). Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, t-test, Cronbach' ${\alpha}$ using SPSS program. The results of the study were as follows. First, as for pullover designs according to pullover shape factors, male preferred classic design with normal round neck, set-in sleeves and normal length, whereas female preferred various designs with normal round, normal V or deep V neck, set-in sleeves and normal or long length. Second, there was significant difference by sex in knitwear patterns and materials. Male preferred geometric patterns and 100% cotton, whereas female preferred natural patterns and blended cotton. Third, 4 factors were emerged on knitwear favorite images(casual image, modem classic image, active image and characteristic image). Especially, there was significant difference by sex in active image. Male preferred active image, whereas female did not. Fourth, as for knitwear purchases, male considered fitting as important purchase criteria, whereas female considered design or style. Male used department stores for purchasing, whereas female used Bosejeom for independent fashion. Male preferred high quality knitwear to female.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.795-803
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• 2017

This research aimed to figure out the effects of physical features such as BMI, garment size and socio-psychological factors such as self-esteem and depression on the body management. A survey was conducted for women in their 40's and 50's. The participants in this study consisted of 197 women recruited in Daegu and the surrounding areas. Statistical analysis including factor analysis, ANOVA, cluster analysis and regression was done using SPSS 23.0 to analyze the results. Among 3 clusters divided by BMI, normal group showed higher body cathexis compared with overweight group and obesity group. S-size group showed higher body cathexis rather than M, L-size groups. L-size group showed higher scores in nonsurgical body management factor. Self-esteem(+)/depression(-) group showed highest body cathexis among 4 groups clustered by self-esteem and depression levels. On the other hand, self-esteem(-)/depression(+) group showed the lowest body cathexis and highest surgical body management and nonsurgical body management factors. This result meant that the lower in self-esteem and the higher in depression, body cathexis decreased and desire for body management increased. As the results of analysis of the effects of BMI, garment size, self-esteem, depression level on body management, depression was a significant factor on surgical body management; depression and garment size were critical factors on nonsurgical body management.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.960-967
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• 2012

The study aims to design the corset type long-line bra patterns that compensate part-somatotype of women in their 20s. The corset type long-line research bra patterns consist of 4 sections: cup, front bodice, back bodice, and shoulder strap. The full cup is made up of 2 lower part pieces and 1 upper part piece, and the shoulder strap is 16 millimeters wide. The method to design the patterns is shown in figure 4 and figure 5. The result of wearing test showed that, while the wearing testers recognized some significant differences in 19 out of 26 criteria, the examiners did in 17 out of 23. The criteria more than 1 in an average value between research bras and commercial bras were 'appropriateness of breadth of shoulder strap', 'appropriateness of pressure of armhole circumference'. 'appropriateness of pressure of waist', 'suitability of side line and body curve', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of chest circumference', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of upper part line', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of bottom part line', and 'satisfaction of whole silhouette of side and back'. The research and commercial bras were evaluated 4.23 and 3.44 respectively by the testers, and 4.25 and 3.40 by the examiners. The former ones were scored higher by both parties. They were also appreciated higher in general silhouettes of fitting and appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.1 s.12
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• pp.78-86
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• 2007

One of the latest social trends is to reappear old things under the banner of the revival. It is easily found in the fashion industry because Fashion is not divided into the past, the present and the future thing but coexisting through all ages. The purpose of this study was to pursue the healthy and characteristic beauty of the modem people by understanding the beauty culture of the ancient. The Middle ages were mainly classified into Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic by historical and cultural factors. In the Byzantine age, the clothing with rich silhouette was worn by the influence of the abstemious religion and it didn't express a specific proportion of human body. The people covered their hair with turbans and veils for the period. The Romanesque era was affected by the religious idealism and the Greek-Roman culture. The ideal proportion of human body could be 8 heads high and the clothes expressing natural silhouette of human body came out. Depending on the feel of the flowing texture, long-braided hair was typical in that time, and also wearing kinds of head dress as personal ornaments was characteristic in the age. In the period of Gothic, the long and weak human body was emphasized. The ideal proportion of human body could be figured with 8.5 heads high and it was expressed with the form of artificial and vertical silhouette such like tight-fitting upper garments, gathered skirts and long hats.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.283-290
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the shopping condition of Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall. A depth interview was administered to eight consumers aged 10s through 30s who had shopping experiences at Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall. The contents of interview were about the reasons of preference for Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall, the merchandise categories purchased, assortment, price, shopping environment, and service offered by Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall. The results of this study were as follows: The reasons of consumers' Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall preference were reasonable price, variety of merchandise assortment, easy catch of fashion trend, entertainment place, and opening hour at nighttime. The mainly purchased items were casual and fashionable clothes. Children's wear was mainly bought item by housewives too. The unique design, similar merchandises sold at department stores and new style in early adoption of fashion cycle were perceived as positive aspects, but copied merchandises and large quantity of same merchandise as negative aspects. The fixed price system was not trusted by consumers. Consumers' complaints about shopping condition were crowded pathways and shopping booths, the lacks of facilities such as fitting room, toilet, lounge area, sales persons' service, and difficulty of using credit cards. From these results, some implications for marketing strategies and practices might be suggested. In order to improve the design variety of merchandises, marketers and apparel manufacturers should make efforts by managing merchandise planning, production, selling, and promotion cooperatively. Fixed price system, acceptance of credit cards, and merchandise return/exchange service should be improved. The training the salespersons was the most important and basic step and easy way to get to successful business.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.255-265
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• 2014

This study developed and proposed a pattern that can fit the body and compensate for the defects of the body type by applying shoulder princess line to the torso pattern and including formative characteristics of each object on the study of body shape's change in 40-59 year old middle aged women. The results of this study are as follows; First, according to the analysis of 'Size Korea 2010' such as average, standard deviation, minimum value, and maximum value of 48 items, women showed increase in most of the items except height as they became aged. Second, factor analysis was made to understand the shape component factors of middle aged women and to use them for the body type classification. Third, cluster analysis was made according to the shape of front and sides which should be considered in pattern production based on the factor analysis results, and the body type with the measurement values most similar to the average of direct measurement of 'Size Korea 2010' was set as standard. Fourth, in designing torso patterns through the $1^{st}$ and the $2^{nd}$ wearing experiments according to the body type, body shapes such as Chest Circumference, Waist Circumference, Hip Circumference, and Waist Back Length were considered in pattern design, goodness-of-fit was enhanced with difference in margin according to body type and different margins in front and back, and fitting satisfaction was improved by applying princess line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.87-93
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• 2020

This study provide basic data to develop a dress form reflecting body shape characteristics by age and to produce a 3D body form in a virtual fitting program. A comparative analysis was conducted on the size, section shape, and slope of side shape of the modeling form by the sizing of the basic female avatar in CLO 3D, one of the 3D apparel CAD programs and the body form of women in their 20s-50s by body shape in the 6th Size Korea (2010). First, all the differences were formed similarly in the direct measurements between the 3D avatar and the body form were within 1 mm. Second, in a comparison of the section form of the avatar and body form in Size Korea, the avatar was formed in straight body shape and did not reflect a spinal curvature according to age. As a result of an examination of the items with a difference over 5° in the slope of side shape, there were angle differences in numerous body shapes in the angles of the side upper abdomen, side upper back, and side upper bust, and the avatar's bust shape was expressed more flatly compared to body form. It will be possible to produce an avatar that can adequately reflect body shape characteristics by adding detailed length and angle items by the region like waist back length and front length in producing the avatar reflecting body shape characteristics, instead of a standard body shape.