• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2010

The Aesthetics of Kwanbok and Hyungbae and their Modern Applications Starting from practical purpose, kwanbok worn by government officers were developed in original and unique fashion over long time. In particular, as hyungbae (embroidered patches for kwanbok) that had been used for kwanbok has remained in existence even today, providing inspiration for a variety of design, it is bringing attention to the aesthetic value and importance of kwanbok. Under the circumstances, this study has elicited aesthetics from kwanbok and hyungbae as follows: First, they imply the wish of long life and happiness as a symbol of favorable omen and distinguish one's status according to the shape, color, and pattern. Second, kwanbok and hyungbae reveal our ancestors' naturalistic perspective in art. Third, pleats, slits and shapes in robes reveal practical aesthetics in composition. Fourth, slits in kwanbok create the aesthetics of contrast and harmony of lining and outer cloth. Modern applications of kwanbok is of value as they represent traditions and maintain the original forms, showing the image of Korea in the 21st century. Such efforts mean that they do not only make more beautiful clothes, but also create overall philosophies in life, including personal values.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.637-646
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• 2016

The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.52-68
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• 2012

To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.137-154
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• 2002

It's not easy to renew old brand of over 50 years history to the tastes of new consumer of our time. Most of national brands that has a history of some 20 years in Korea have strove for continuation and growth of brand to no avails, which can be taken as a good example of current situation. For instance, C company, one of the National brand of US which has a history of 51 years, has made its position secure as a fashion group and based itself on a sound foundation by establishing new marketing strategy and completing successful brand renewal in the process of strategic M&A with Italian company. Those successful marketing strategies are as follows. 1) they regarded both market and consumer oriented marketing activity as company's highest priority strategy and put great emphasis upon concentration on target market and reestablishment of brand image of business casual wear. 2) Setting up and operating planning team composed of merchandizer alone in Milano, they set the direction of plan on the basis of concentrated research on potential item in market according to thorough market research done by buying office in Korea, branch office in Hong Kong and buyer in US prior to blueprint planning for season. 3) Great emphasis was placed on business which focused on intensive presentation of basic key item for apparel career women who are main consumer group in the midium-low prices market in US and on supplementation of size and color. they named this line 'collectibles' and helped their customer develop their own clothes plan without worrying about the change of color and fabric by supporting same fabric and color throughout the year and enabled them to add variation easily by supplementing new trend item. 4) Company set black as a main color that lots of apparel career women find easy to care and to express their own image and presented them with pebble which belongs to navy and beige and added fashion color such as wine and brown etc as season goes by. They constructed basic line in order for their customers to coordinate purchased item with new one or to add them to present collection, and to achieve efficient sale by setting up strategy which allows this cross coordination and changing pattern occasionally. 5) Though basic jacket for 99$, short slim skirt for 49$ are products within midium-low prices range, in the material planning stage aiming at production of item that has both resonable function appealing to consumer and is fashionable, synthetic material had to be used as a main source due to price competitiveness. Despite this situation, considering comfortable sense of fit and refined drape of silhouette that has no sign of cheap material, whole collectible line was divided into two items, which contributed to reduction of cost. In case of material that is composed of triacetate and polyester in 70 to 30 ratio, was used up to 4 million yard, which allowed drastic curtailment of cost accompanied by concentration. In case of 'collectibles' line, using Korean material mainly, C company chose to have their product sewed in Southeast Asian countries where transportation is well developed and both productivity and quality verified by operating global production system which aiming at cutdown of cost through outsourcing production from the country where labor cost is low and getting finished product. Polarization between present consumers telling us that consumers with the mind of middle classes in the past no longer exists between consumers who seek after only fine article of highest quality and wise consumers who are sensible enough to judge bubble on correlation between price and quality. To cope with this change in new consumer mind, apparel makes changing their policy so as to produce item that has reasonable quality and falls within affordable price range anywhere in the world. and they're striving to get out of difficult situation by operating global marketing strategy which stresses separation of planning, production and sale and sensibility of fashion shared worldwide. The marketing strategy of C company can be exemplified as a successful one.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.125-138
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• 1998

In order to help apparel manufactures and marketers to promote apparel products more efficiently, and aid them in instilling brand names or brand images more distinctively in the minds of target consumers, it is the intent of this study (1) to investigate on the high-school girls brand loyalty and the brand discernment, self image(product image), and the buying behavior of casual wear. The subjects were 532 female high school students selected from the four high school in Seoul. The data were collected by self-admin-istered questionnaires. The data were analyzed by frequency, percentage, T-test, x2-test, and correspondence analysis. (1) 29.1% of the female students were cat-egorized as the brand loyalty group that was smaller than the non-brand loyalty group(70.9%). (2) In identifying the relationship between the demographic factors and the brand loyalty, the monthly household income and the month-ly personnel expenses were statistically significant. Namely, higher household income and the monthly personnel expenses were statistically significant. Namely, higher household income and the monthly personnel expenses there were, higher the brand loyalty was revealed. (3) The power of discernment was statistically significant according to the brand loyalty. That is, the brand loyalty group was more outstanding than latest fashion brands, the high-price brands, and the better-style brands in terms of design, color, and fabric. (4) The self image was also statistically significant according to the brand loyalty, Wher-eas the brand loyalty group preferred the unique, high-quality, sexy, and active self-images, non-brand loylty group revealed to prefer the non-noticeable and feminine self-images. The findings of this study will assist apparel manufactures and marketers in better identifying the target market, and in subsequently adjusting their products, brand image, and promotional activities in order to reach the target market more efficiently.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.193-202
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to find out effects of textile motifs and the application methods on wearer's image perception. A survey was conducted to total of 255 male and female university students who are residing in Daejeon and Chungnam province. The stimuli were composed of 2 level tones(dark and light), 3 level complexity(simple, medial and complex), 3 patterns(polka dot, stripe and check) and the 2 way of stimuli application methods(fabric and garment). The instrument for measuring preference of stimuli consisted of 4 items, encouraging, preference, purchasing and popularity. The instrument for measuring image of stimuli consisted 24 pair items. Factor analysis for the adjective pair images(24 inquiries) about the textile patterns which were used in this study was performed. It resulted as three factors which are attraction, salience, and potential. Attraction, salience, and potency dimensions showed the most significant interaction effects of application methods and patterns. And tone and application method effected attraction and salience, tones and patterns effected attraction, tones and complex effected salience. Application methods and patterns effected potential and patterns and complex effected salience. The preferences toward stimuli, it resulted only interaction of tones and patterns affected the preferences('total preference' and 'purchasing'). Pearson's product-moment correlation analysis carried out to find out the relation of images of clothing and preferences. As a result, salience was significant relation with attraction and potency. In correlation between image of textile pattern and preference, attraction is most significant relation with the preference. The results of the study could be used for the marketing strategies of the motif in fashion product.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.252-258
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• 1999

미혼여성과 기혼여성을 대상으로 인체계측을 실시하여 직접 계측치와 지수치를 이용하여 주축요인분석을 한 결과 도출된 인자를 독립변수로 군집분석을 한 하반신 체형변인과 직물에 의한 플레어 스커트의 외관형상을 분석하기 위하여 영상처리를 이용하여 착용실험을 한 결괴는 다음과 같다. 1. 플레어 스커트의 헴라인 단면형상 분석 결과 체형변인에 의한 플레어 스커트의 드레이프 면적과 드레이프 계수는 드레이프의 면적이 크면 드레이프 계수도 큰 값을 나타내었다. 직물의 노드수는 드레이프성이 좋을수록 많이 형성되고 노드수가 많으면 노드지수 값은 작은 값을 가진다. 노드지수 값이 크면 노드의 고저가 균일하게 나타나고 작으면 노드의 고저가 불균일하게 나타난다. 또한 인체 측정치수의 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레의 차이, 허리너비와 엉덩이너비의 차이 값이 큰 마름모형 체형변인에서 노드수는 많이 나타나고 노드지수 값은 작게 나타났다. 통형에 가까운 체형변인은 노드지수가 큰 값을 나타내므로 노드의 고저가 균일하게 나타났다. 직물의 노드수가 많으면 노드산 평균은 낮고, 노드지수 값이 큰 반면 노드수가 작으면 노드산펑균이 높으므로 노드산과 곡의 고저가 심하게 나타났다. 그러므로 직물의 드레이프성이 우수하다 할지라도 적정의 중량을 가지지 않으면 노드가 불균일하게 형성되어 의복 외관의 좋은 외관형상을 형성하지 못하는 결점이 나타나는 것으로 해석되었다. 2. 플레어 스커트의 헴라인 단면의 최대횡경은 인체측정값의 너비항목과 최대종경은 두께항목과 관련성이 높은 것으로 나타났다. 단면비의 값이 크면 최대횡경의 값이 크고 최대종경의 값이 작은 타원형에 가까운 단면형상이 나타나고, 단면비의 값이 작으면 최대횡경 값이 작고 최대총경 값이 큰 원형에 가까운 단변형상으로 나타났다. 3. 플레어 스커트의 외관형상 분석 결과 정면처짐분은 둘레항목, 너비항목 시아항목의 차이 값이 작을수록, 직물의 드레이프성이 좋을수록 크게 나타났다. 미혼여성과 기혼여성을 비교해 보면 기혼여성의 체형이 너비, 둘레항목사이의 치어 값이 적기 때문에 처짐분이 크게 나타났다. 측면처짐분은 인체측정값의 두께항목과 상관이 깊어 앞부분은 배두께가 클수록, 뒷부분은 엉덩이두께가 클수록 처짐분량이 크게 나타났다. 후면처짐분은 정면과 같이 S시료에서 드레이프성이 좋을수록 처짐분이 크고, 엉덩이너비는 크고, 엉덩이두께가 작올수록 처짐분이 크게 나타났다. 4. 플레어 스커트의 3차원 입체형상은 외관형상의 굴곡이 낮아 평평할 수록 이미지의 평균값은 높고 편차는 낮게 나타났다. 체형변인에 의한 플레어 스커트의 주름 형상을 정면, 측면, 후면에서 이미지 값 분포로 비교해 보면 정면, 후면보다 측면의 외관이 평활하여 이미지 분포폭이 좁게 나타나고 최빈값을 중심으로 회색에 가까운 쪽으로 치우쳐 있는 것을 불 수 있다. 5. 체형변인에 따른 플레어 스커트의 주름특성을 평가하기 위하여 영상처리법으로 얻은 결과를 3차원 업체형상으로 분석하기 위하여 6개의 영역을 측정한 결과 플레어 스커트는 체형유형에 따라 곡면을 형성하는 주름의 수와 주름강도가 다르게 나타나 위 아랫부분의 주름폭은 차이가 있었다. 위부분에서 아랫부분으로 내려올수록 주름높이 폭은 커졌다. 그러므로 주름의 높이와 플레어 스커트의 헴라인 단연형상의 노드각도와 밀접한 관련이 있는 것으로 나타났다. 즉, 주름의 높이가 높으면 노드 각도는 작은 값을 보이고, 주름의 높이가 낮으면 노드각도는 큰 값을 나타내었다.