Slashes, deprived from the Crusaders' military uniforms, take their places among the fashion terms in modern fashion, and they are represented with some techniques such as fraying fabrics or making holes. Slashes are also used in various ways across all the fashion areas including clothing to accessaries. Slashes, which were once used to represent a solid body and to make a body move suitably, are used not only to express the formative of clothing but also to allow wearing sensations and functionality to wearers depending on their daily lives and the movements of their activities in modern fashion design. Optical illusions of fashion, image variabilities, functionality and ornamentation, and design principles, which were once represented with materials, colors, and details mainly used in fashion designs, are represented using slashes in modern fashion.
This study aims to analyze fashion design cases using traditional elements based on the research and analysis of traditional folk cultural paper-cutting crafts in China, and to expand the area of fashion design using traditional elements by developing 3D digital fashion design. For herein, the techniques and characteristics of Chinese paper-cutting crafts were investigated. This survey facilitated an analysis of the formative characteristics of battery crafts in contemporary fashion design. As for the analysis case, the case of using battery crafts expressed in modern fashion for 10 years from 2010 to 2024 S/S was selected. The results are as follows. First, the typical characteristics of Chinese paper cutting technology-relief, micro-carved, combined with relief and micro-carved expressive techniques of engraving art effect-can be explored by analyzing contemporary fashion case collections through the perspective and trend of leading traditional culture. Second, in the traditional paper cutting process, most paper-cutting works are expressed in red, but white and black are mainly used in fashion, in addition to the active use of the five colors. Third, the characteristics of contemporary fashion patterns primarily utilize the paper-cutting process, incorporating elements such as plants, animals, and geometric patterns. Fourth, the utilization of paper cutting in 3D digital design offers time and economic benefits, allowing for quick adjustments to various design developments. In contemporary fashion, it is expected that the use of paper cutting can provide useful creativity and value for the inheritance and modernization of traditional culture.
Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.
There had been studied for a function of fashion illustration that has various capability of differentiation among fashion products since year 2000. A fashion products adopted the illustration is stand out not only to increase the goods profits by consumers who is willing to purchase the products with specified identity but also to execute differentiation strategy in a market. The aim of this study is the theoretical approach of fashion illustration and examined the development process of the products based on the supporting documents of cooperations, other records and actual application cases. Also, expression techniques of fashion illustration, image features and etc. are mainly studied and following representative results are projected through the data. First, the success of fashion commercialization using fashion illustration should have mutual organic function which requires three factors such as product project, marketing, the role of illustration. Second, An illustration of hand drawing expression technique is more helpful in differentiation of fashion product than using computer graphic, embroidery, collage technique and the fashion products vividly expressed with sensuous illustration tend to have higher preference. Third, the possibility of success the fashion products is often affected by the distinct identification and the precise positioning while the illustration is used.
The purpose of this study is to provide basic data of dress design by researching three-dimensional decorative techniques representing flowers, a popular motif in dress design. This study analyzed 44 dresses that were presented in Valentino collection. The result of this study is as follows: First, the detailing expression method can show various patterns and colors through embroidery technique, sub-materials, and bonding techniques in embroidery, beads flower, and ribbon flowers. Second, the fabric flower technique expressed flower image in three-dimension in more various images than do either the ribbon or beads flower technique. Fabric flowers are mostly made from the same material as dresses. The expression technique of fabric flower is classified into the following three classifications: 1) A technique underlying a flower image with one, two and three large flowers, 2) a technique decorating a large area with a number of an identical motif, and 3) a technique highlighting a part of the body or design line by attracting eyes to one point, creating a corsage decorated where a designer wants to emphasize. Third, a silhouette technique realizes a flower image with a silhouette of a dress like sculpted structure and it is thus used less than a detailing expression technique. A flower image is expressed by making use of body lines or emphasizing the face. Finally, flower images on a dress were realized as a full blossomed flower, through visually streamlined shapes and curved lines.
Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.
The purpose of this study was to develop questions for fashion design development, by applying 7 elements of the scamper to the fashion design elements, and to present a scamper checklist of fashion design elements, and item structures. In this study, the scope of research was limited to clothing design among various fashion products, and among various design development stages. Fashion design development focusing on design sketching, was limited to the research scope. The research method was based on an empirical study that derived scamper questions through FGI (Focus Group Interview), consisting of 5 fashion experts. Fashion design elements applied to development of scamper questions consisted of silhouettes, constructive lines, structural details, decorative details, patterns and textures of fabrics, and item structures, derived by applying these elements to the individual 7 elements of the scamper: substitute, combine, adjust, modify, put to other uses, eliminate, and reverse. Results of the study included 7 questions for substituting, 8 questions for combining, 6 questions for applying, 15 questions for modifying, 4 questions for putting to other uses, 4 questions for eliminating, and 7 questions for reversal. The scamper checklist for fashion design elements and item structures drew to 5 lists of silhouette variations, 7 lists of constructive line variations, 11 lists of structural detail variations, 10 lists of decorative detail variations, 11 lists of fabric variations, and 9 lists of structural modifications of items.
This study was conducted to examine how patchwork was expressed in fashion based on theoretical background on its brief history and expression styles and to show its possibility of creating ways for new expression in modern fashion. This study reviewed literatures on definition, history and styles of patchwork and investigated mainly works, which had been presented in collections home and abroad since 2000, to analyze its expressive characteristics shown in modern fashion. According to analysis on the expression of patchwork, it used various painting techniques such as patterns, colors and surface effect. It included patchwork having patterns provoking elusion of fairy tails; containing painting expression of reproducing works of artists; using colors boldly and contrasting strong primary colors directly to establish purity of painting and to pursuit characteristic expression; and using expression techniques of pure art such as gradation and cutting. Second, it used a compromise expression in materials, methods and substances. Patchwork which had used cloth without a pattern or printed fabric, utilized various materials like vinyl, paper, leather, metal and plastic and had a figurative value showing a solid expression as an objet itself with new techniques and changes of connecting methods. Thirdly, it used tradition patchwork techniques. Pieced patchwork, crazy patchwork and images of traditional odd ends of cloth covering a meal were applied to a whole area or a part of cloth to avoid monotony of design and to use it as a decoration.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti appearing in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. A theoretical examination of graffiti art and Moschino's creative designer Jeremy Scott was conducted using previous studies and publications. Accordingly, keywords about the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti and Moschino were identified, as follows: expressive elements of 'message (slogan)', 'symbolized letters or forms', 'logo and brand symbol', 'graffiti (scribbles)', 'child-like elements', 'daily element's and expressive techniques of 'using primary colors (color contrast)', 'deformation', 'distortion', 'exaggeration', 'illusion (trompe l'oeil)', 'collage (repetition)', 'simplification (flattening)', and 'borrowing heterogeneous objects'. These keywords were then used to analyze Moschino's collection, comprising seven years of Moschino's collection photographs officially recorded in the fashion magazine Vogue, ranging from the 2014 F/W to 2020 F/W collections. A total of 761 photos were initially collected, from which 561 were selected by the researcher. Expressive characteristics of graffiti in Moschino's collection were analyzed, and identified in the following categories: 'child-like playfulness', 'commercial satire', 'using daily elements', and 'borrowing non-representative techniques'. Accordingly, it was confirmed that expressive characteristics of graffiti were found in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. This study anticipates the possibility of various interpretations from which fashion that communicates closely with contemporary art can be understood.
The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.
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