• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.513-528
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of zero-waste design and to apply Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques to develop a zero-waste fashion design method that contributes to sustainable fashion design. In this study, we explore the method and characteristics of zero-waste fashion design based on the concept of folding described in Sophia Vyzoviti's book on folding techniques. Using the autonomy of Sophia Vyzoviti's folding technique, four changeable folding fashion designs were developed and produced, demonstrating zero-waste fashion design. The results were as follows. First, the development of fashion designs using Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques enabled the development and production of free and creative zero-waste fashion designs that were three-dimensional, continuous, fluid, and full of potential. Second, the production of zero-waste patterns was further developed into a transformable fashion design that can be used with geometric patterns. These folding techniques produced a fashion design method that could transform one piece of clothing, demonstration the potential for maintenance of creativity using a zero-waste design based on these folding techniques. Third, the double-faced fabric, Neoprene, was chosen as an appropriate material as it emphasizes the depth of folding with application of two colors and its cotton/polyester blend that is suitable for folding.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.249-265
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• 2005

Creative application in elaborate techniques can not only make design constructs productive but also can widen designers' figurative perspectives. There are many techniques applied in fashion design such as folds, patchworks, embroidery, dyeing, industrial treatment, etc. In particular, folds play a significant part in enlightening clothes uniqueness in contemporary fashion design. The primary purpose of this study was to make new suggestion for the production of high value-added fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing fold expressions. Diverse fold designs were retrieved through a comprehensive literature review on topic-related books, fashion dictionaries, and fashion encyclopedias. Significant cases of fashion designs using folds were retrieved from fashion magazines uploaded from 2000. There are three types of folds applied in fashion design. (1) The folds by needlework like tucks, smocking, shirring, and trimming type folds(ruffle, frill, flounce, and ruche). (2) The folds by chemical or mechanical treatment like permanent pleats and crinkle. (3) The folds of formative dress like drape. From a comprehensive review of the folds design cases after 2000, the following characteristics of folds design were identified: (1) a highlighted role in the whole, (2) mixture and deformation of techniques and materials, (3) 3-D surface effect, (4) creation of a unique figurative beauty, and (5) expression of diverse fashion image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.984-1003
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• 2020

The global fashion industry produces significant carbon emission and micro-plastics in oceans. Studies on sustainable design methods as such environmental issues in fashion are becoming intensely problematic. This study conducted a case study on 100 upcycle fashion brands to propose strategical upcycle fashion designs to compete in a sustainable fashion market. A literature review indicated that 3 types of textile wastes are generated as upcycling materials: post-producer, pre-consumer and post-consumer. Wastes are categorized together with 3 types of techniques: redesigning, reconstruction and handcrafting. This research derived 7 types of upcycle fashion designs that have the following features: to make luxury upcycle fashion products, to make sustainable grunge looks, to re-evaluate deadstocks, to recover vintage clothes, to convert waste into craft-arts, to offer solutions for damaged products, and to make zero-waste small fabric waste. The study results show that key drivers in the upcycle fashion design are the redesignability of materials and technique-related costs. This study implies that adopting appropriate design features can be a useful strategy for designers. New technologies will solve current problems and encourage them to design products in a new circular value system.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-20
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• 2005

This study is purposed to provide new idea for developing high value added fashion goods by studying relief effects of fashion design. Based on prior researches, various ways to give relief effects were searched and then modern fashion design cases were looked for which were referred to fashion-related magazines and collection-related internet sites since the late 1990s. The ways for relief effects are weaving, industrial finishing, sewing technique. Weaving techniques are about fancy yarns, variation of weaving structure, pile weave. Industrial finishing techniques which can make relief effects are embossing, heat-setting, shearing, pliss, burn out, flocking. Sewing techniques are quilting, pleats, embroidery, slash, attachment in accordance with the way to produce relief effects. The forms of relief effects are tactile pattern that cannot be seen in the distance, subtle relief pattern which is more three-dimensional than tactile pattern, rhythmical relief pattern, sculptural pattern, and deep-volumed pattern. The present research can provide practical data for design by studying techniques of relief effects and collecting and arranging design cases that have been sporadically carried out. The study on relief and unique surface effects can be a way to effectively stimulate and express emotions of modern people with various taste and individuality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.15-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to promote the artistic value and formative aesthetic of clothes in daily life through a proposal of inventive fashion design by utilizing Depaysement of Surrealism, which visualizes a more realistically and more specifically than fact in illogical and unfamiliar situation, Focused on details of Korean traditional costume silhouette. The method of this study, the literature and existing researches related to Depaysement were analyzed through theoretical review for establish the expressive techniques of Depaysement expressed in contemporary fashion. Conclusions from this study are as follows: first, the expressive techniques of Depaysement are derived that are 'change of scale', 'change of materials', 'combination of heterogeneous objects', 'arrangement of object in a strange space', 'overlapped object', 'paradoxical image', 'variable awareness of boundary.' Second, expressive techniques of Depaysement present a new methodology which can express an irrational thinking, which is not controled by reason such as unconsciousness, dream, and fantasy etc, in a way that is easier and more realistic rather than thinking centered on an art which is ruled by consciousness. Third, unique and free-form fashion design, which destroys a general idea, was could develop by using abundant materials and composing items borrowed various silhouette for expressive the techniques of Depaysement. Forth, Through this study, the concept of Korean fashion design, that was limited by the standard form when we approach Korean fashion design as identity of social culture, ideology of reflection and expression, object of commercial expression, was could think outside of the box.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.1-21
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• 2022

Purpose of this study is to develop fashion design with greater added value and to seek the expandability of its expression domain by applying special computer code and tape embroidery machine capable of creating more special and fancier fashion to the development of fashion design by focusing on the fashion decorations that are becoming increasingly more computer systematized. For this purpose, expression techniques and effects of computer embroidery machine code and tape trimming decoration techniques, and cases of modern fashion design are examined. Major images are then deduced to designing and production of actual 6 creative pieces equipped with creativity and commercial value by applying such images deduced. As the results, it is not only possible to develop highly value added fashion design by utilizing mixed computer embroidery machine code and tape trimming decoration technique but also to produce countlessly new and unique surfaces by inducing changes in diversified pattern expressions, thickness of cord thread, and width, color and texture of material, etc. of the tape. This can maximize the expression domain of design, and fulfill the fashion desires of consumers wanting modern enhancement of quality and individualization. If multilateral attempts and studies for the aforementioned purposes can be expanded continuously, it is deemed possible to broaden the range of expression techniques in fashion design and, moreover, to make contribution towards enhancement of competitiveness of fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.21-34
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop a new Korean fashion design using forced-relationship techniques and the traditional hanbok Korean dress and Korean traditional images as the source of the ideas. The research methods consisted of literature research and design production. In the literature research for the hanbok composition and design elements, the concept and type of forced-relationship techniques were studied. The design development process was as follows. First, 'Developing a Korean fashion design' was set as the design theme. Second, the composition and design elements of hanbok and Korean motifs, which consist of Korean images were set as fixed elements of the forced-relationship technique. Third, among the various trends in keywords, 'punk' belonging to a subculture, was set as an arbitrary element of the forced-relationship technique. Fourth, the punk fashion design elements and items were listed. Fifth, a rough sketch was performed by selectively combining fixed and arbitrary elements. Sixth, a design evaluation process was conducted to select the designs out of 52 design sketches that fit the purpose of the study. Seventh, a total of six designs were selected after making design modifications. Through this, a total of six works of women's clothing was designed, made, and presented. This study offers the possibility of developing new Korean fashion design images, and a chance to share designs based on different cultural elements in the global market.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2018

This research focuses on the development of upcycled denim fashion designs, whichis a more specific category within general upcycled fashion design. Characteristics of upcycled fashion design, which has been identified previously by researchers, include the following traits: environmentality, uniqueness, aesthetic appeal, availability, convertibility, and deconstructivity. The expression principles include recycling, substitution, recombination, and reduction. The result of the analysis of the denim fashion design characteristics, which is based on the theoretical analysis, has found. The external expression pattern consists of the deconstruction and reconstitution of materials, the avant-garde style and convertibility, the ability to mix and match materials and techniques, the production of zero waste, and the use of layering. The expression techniques used included decomposition, depaysement, weaving, cut-off, collage, assemblage, overlapping, connecting, attaching, and stitching. The inner meanings were identified as economicality through recycling, convertibility through rearranging, and the rarity and value of hand-made products. The result of the research applying the identified characteristics are as follows. First, developing and creating designs using modified denim and sub-materials with various expression patterns and techniques could provide completely new images unlike existing denim products. Second, modifying the details while maintaining the basic format of denim clothing could provide unique and new possibilities for upcycled denim fashion design. Third, environment-friendly models with creative designs were developed by recycling used denim materials. This reduced waste and energy while maximizing the use of resources. This study expects contribute to upcycled fashion design research by recognizing the unique characteristics and value of denim material.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.257-264
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• 2010

In the modern Society, the human's way of thinking as well as the new cultural creation has been changing by bringing on a change rapidly. The moderns are demanding humanity and the new cultural cretion through the exchange between the old things and new things by setting material before everything else. The latest trends of today had an effect on the fashion Illustration, a new art category, which gives a new image. This report of research has a purpose which expresses korean images by connecting the korean tradition style to the modern fashion. And we are concerned about the national culture and tradition with the international stream. For this reason I studied these for the purpose of expanding expression area of sewing techniques by applying to fashion Illustration expressing handcraft techniques by natural beauty improving the modern and traditional images, updating, and succeeding to tradition. As the way of studying and contents, I referred to the inside and outside of the country's literatures, these, publications, magazines, or the internet sufing. Firstly, as the theoretical study, I studied a conception and history of the fashion Illustration. I studied the theoretical background of the sewing techniques through the histories, tools, and techniques. The theoretical background of the sewing handicraft is studied through the colors, patterns, materials and sorts. I also and indicated the various works by the domestic designers.