• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.1
• /
• pp.14-28
• /
• 2012

'Beauty(美)' is pursued by many women. It has been expressed through fashion which has become more various as the society became wealthier. This phenomenon can also be found in the Salon Culture of the 17~18th Centuries and in the way that the free-style socialization without specific purposes began by women. Such 'salon culture' fashions have been reproduced in various methods by contemporary fashion designers as they met the trends or as they became the inspiration and source of ideas and were reinterpreted in various styles. Therefore, it is necessary to compare and analyze the studies and expression methods regarding that style's effects on contemporary fashion at a time when the women's salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries is being naturally combined with or restructured to fit in with contemporary fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze, establish the concept of, and summarize the characteristics of the salon fashion style in order to provide fundamental scholarly information and a direction for the fashion design market by establishing a database on the characteristics of both eras based on the characteristics analysis results of the contemporary fashion style and salon culture era. Moreover, this study is also significant in that it will be a helpful tool for new design development to satisfy consumer needs, and in that the comparison analysis on the salon culture and contemporary fashion characteristics can be a useful tool to understand the fashions of both era. The study methods were, first, through a literature review to study the concepts and background of the salon culture. The second method was to setup a style analysis of a period of 4 years and collect visual data from internet fashion information web sites, such as collection books, to collect and analyze the data. Third, the analysis focused mainly on the results of the categorization of images with 20 fashion experts. Fourth, the details of the salon culture fashion style that are used the most in contemporary fashion were summarized and analyzed. Therefore, the results of this study are as follows The development of the socializing culture during the economically abundant era of the 17~18th Centuries became the stepstool for women to enter a new society and at the same time became the background of the development of the salon and related literature. For the characteristics of the salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries, the changes were more significant in the details of the collars, necklines, sleeves, and robes, rather than in partial silhouette changes. It was found that the same fashion repeats in several-century intervals depending on the era changes; however, it has been reinterpreted newly based on consumer preferences and era situations instead of being reused exactly. Therefore, this study will become scholarly and fundamental data to establish the contemporary understanding of the fashion of the salon culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.412-424
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning of soul fashion in American pop culture. This study was conducted using a literature research method based on the prior theses, journals and relevant books. Soul as a concept, originated in African-American communities and evolved from the ideology of Black Power, which prompted Black Nationalism. Soul fashion, which took on two styles in African American culture began to embody black resistance and community pride in the late 20th century. One of these, hip-hop style represented the message of resistance and a sense of beauty outside the mainstream. The other, African-inspired fashion, which utilized a look inspired by African tradition, rejected white supremacy by expressing a proud dignity. As a result, the meaning of "soul" in soul fashion represented by American pop culture resulted in contrasting appearance due to different elements. First, one of its meanings is ironic and sarcastic, and it expressed historical trauma, cultural stereotypes, self-hatred, and self-degradation and, the self-mutilation of African-American by cynically distorting their silhouettes and, using modified materials and patterns, fantastic colors, and extraordinary accessories. Second, the other meanings is the pride and dignity of Black Power, which visualized the concentration of ideas implied by the tradition of African-American, through soul fashion by using fierce traditional of African costumes, unique patterns and accessories.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.45-54
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to help understanding of east-west culture fusion in fashion since 2000 years, to play a guideline's role in the development on fashion designs study. The methods of this study are academic literatures as well as practical study through case studies about actual works. Tendency of east-west culture fusion in fashion since 2000 years is shape and performance, pattern, accessary. Shape and performance are reinterpreted through east folk fashion transforming on west fashion, pattern shows traditional pattern of each nations, but letters of typical of each nations appears for new pattern which expresses nation identification. Accessary is in the harmony with east -west fashion culture like that without transform. Aesthetic value of east-west culture fusion in fashion since 2000 years is summerised opening, co-ownership, and amusement. First, opening is positiveness of acception and acknowledgment for other. Second, co-ownership turns towards humanism, and proves participating in globalism and really global village. Third, amusement is to express freedom, and to reveal privately emotion concealing in public area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.6
• /
• pp.131-147
• /
• 2014

Purpose of this study is to analyze the meaning of the hybrid digital culture and to find out the features of digital fashion shows appearing in the period of the hybrid digital culture as there have been almost no studies on the hybrid cultural values in the fashion shows and on the diachronic socio-cultural viewpoint of fashion show. The characteristics of hybrid digital culture were identified through the analysis of cases, and they were organized into three for this study; 'non-economic creativity', 'interactive communication' and 'transcendence'. Based on these characteristics, the features of hybrid digital cultures in the modern digital fashion shows were classified into the digitalization of presentation form and the acceptance by audience of digitalization using case studies. The features of digital fashion shows which appear through the presentation form in the digital fashion shows are as follows; 'Expansion of presentation media of runway' and 'Destruction of component factors of runway'. The features of digital fashion show in the perspective of audience's acceptance of digitalization are as follows; 'Audience's field experience through the live video', 'Participation by audience in interactive manner' and, 'Immersion in the virtual reality by the audiences'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.54-70
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of celebrity and celebrity fashion on contemporary fashion. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning fashion, culture, and history were used for theoretical background and visual data from magazine, news paper, and internet were used for actual study. The results of this study are as follows. First, the celebrity is the figure who shows their attractive appearance and status using major cultural contents on the basis of the various media and visual culture, and has secured a solid foothold as the source of fashion and an indispensable factor of fashion industry. Second, the celebrity fashion, a creature of mass media, set a powerful fashion trend along with the media, and increasingly plays mayor roles in the society and culture. Third, the combination of celebrity and fashion has come into the brightest spotlight as the serious business of today, and bring about a tremendous industrial ripple effect extensively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.4
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2004

This study suggests the popular culture theory as a basic framework to find out the characteristics of contemporary fashion show meeting the popular culture, and describes that the show is the popular culture of this generation. The culture is the way of our life unifying the world at common area of human being. The popular culture is to subdivide it into the public culture that shares aesthetic taste, and to borrow each other and develop it mutually because of the collapse of dichotomous boundary with high quality culture, and to represent the people’s thought and behaviour expanding their areas. The author has examined the characteristics of popular culture of modern fashion show by four collections, that is, commercialism, mass media, political relationship and interaction, etc： Firstly, at the commercialism, the fashion show combines it with other genre organically to do mass production and sales and produces cultural consumption goods supplying a lot of sight-seeing. Secondly, at the mass media, the image of contemporary fashion show has been spread out with mass media such as fashion magazines, cable TV and Internet beyond time and space to produce advertisement effects and makes new fashion and bring democratic culture. Thirdly, at political relationship, the fashion in its peak can make a big stream of wealth, so that it plays important roles under governmental regulations in this era and governments make efforts to support and develop it. Lastly, at interaction, the fashion show shares media functions to let users participate in the program and to exchange information as a feedback to influence each other.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.80-92
• /
• 2017

Fashion trend is more than a social phenomenon that multitudes of people accept as popular styles of clothing. The purpose of this study was to understand the influence of fashion trend over time and distance. Geographically thousands of miles apart, the U.S. has strongly influenced fashion in Korea, revealed by references and historic depictions collected from literature and web sites. Results of the study are summarized as five issues: First, emergence of female missionaries from the U.S. American missionaries working in the late Great Korean Empire performed a significant role importing Western culture to Korea. Second, as opportunities of education increased, women studying abroad introduced Western fashion to Koreans when they returned to Korea. They were more open to Western culture than other Koreans and moderately harmonized their Korean sentiment and Western culture, mitigating cultural shock and enabled other Koreans to accept Western culture. Third, the effect of fashionistas on media. Singers working for U.S. armies stationed in Korea and movie stars appearing in Hollywood movies profoundly affected Korean pop culture and fashion trends in Korea. Fourth, following First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy of the U.S. She was an influential figure in those days and a fashion leader as well. Lastly, acceptance of working girl fashion depicted in American television shows. American working girls depicted on American TV shows were highly admired by young Korean women, so the fashion of American working girls became a major fad among young Korean women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.717-729
• /
• 2019

This study defines critical fashion designs and investigate its critical messages on fashion itself. The critical messages on fashion are categorized into two major issues of a fashion industry system and fashion consumer culture. This study contributes to the understanding of meaning and value for critical fashion messages that match critical art. As the research method, this study combines a literature review and case studies and the research scope focuses on cases that have appeared in fashion media since the 2000s when social critical messages in fashion began to emerge. The results of the study are as follows. Critical designers such as Viktor & Rolf, Elisa van Joolen, Issey Miyake, and Mary Ping have delivered messages challenging the nature of fashion industry system that criticize the cycle and limitation of a fashion system and pursues changes in perception of sustainability. The critical message on fashion consumer culture articulated by designers such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, and Ricarda Bigolin & Nella Themelios insist on the formation of community while delivering a critical message on social, political, and cultural problems that raise the mechanism of social awareness through fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.28
• /
• pp.239-253
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.4
• /
• pp.579-594
• /
• 2014

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late $20^{th}$ century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.