• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2001

This study analyzed the works, introduced in the collections of Thierry Mugler in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. The formative aesthetic expressed in the works of Thierry Mugler were characterized by the eroticism and the futurism. The formative aesthetic of eroticism were specified into the sexualism, primitivism and fetishism, and those of futurism were divided into the cosmocorps and the grotesque. The eroticism was based on the design concept on the body of woman. The sexuality was expressed through the design concept of opposing, extreme and conversion method. The primitivism was presented through the design concept of extreme method to express a returning to nature and a nostalgia and an adoration for the past. The pieces, expressed the fetishism, was presented through opposing concepts, such as a bondage and an extreme expose. It was indicated that the design concept of futurism was based on the future. The cosmocorps was expressed through the extreme method by using geometrical formative aesthetic and contrast color combination. The grotesque represented the mysterious and abhorrent futurism through the design concept of depaysment conversion and analogy.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.727-740
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• 2012

This study is for the enhancement and utilization of future graphic design for T-shirts and deals with the expression styles and features of T-shirt graphic designs that appear in modern fashion. A literature examination about graphic design and T-shirts was performed for the research method and the analysis followed 378 pieces of graphic design featured in four major international collections for females from 2001S/S to 2011S/S. The research results from the expression type of T-shirt graphic design in the modern fashion are as follows. Expression in graphic figure accounts for the largest portion of 40.8% that includes illustration or cartoon characters, personal figure or part of the physical body, object in daily life or landscape pictures, animals and plants, and others. Expression given in text with typography or logo accounted for 27.5%, expression combined with letter/text, graphics and geometric figures accounted for 24.3%, geometrical expression accounted for 7.4%; most of which are given in print. Characteristics found in modern fashion graphic design are as follows. First, role of sort of public relations marketing was accompanied with utilization of brand logo or symbol. Second, visual play was shown in a sense of humor with diverse graphic figures and playful texts, witty layout with graphic motives, and a free design formation. Third, it denoted a front burner issue delivering the message for various current events or arguments via the way of texts, slogans, and symbolic pictures. Fourth, it depicted artistry through the self-expressive creation of the designer.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This study intends to explore the collaborative expression in the modern fashion design by analyzing the collaboration of motifs symbolizing Korean cultural identity. As for the data research, in order to examine the expressional objects of collaboration in the collections of the fashion designers from Korea and overseas who have applied the Korean culture among their collections posted on the Internet sites, www.firstview.com, and www.style.com from 2005 to 2012 were collected for analysis. 923 pictures used in the analysis sheet. As for the research method, the content analysis method was used. In the modern fashion design, the collaborative expression in the motifs symbolizing Korean cultural identity are limited to tangible expression, intangible expression, integrated expression. The results of this study were as follows. First, in the tangible expression, traditional tangible assets are used in the shapes, items, colors, materials, patterns and details to symbolize uniquely Korean image. The intangible expression, the applicability for Korean intangible assets include the master's (intangible cultural assets) and the craftsmanship of the modern designers being collaborated onto the contemporary customs to express the Korean traditional culture in a realistic or an abstract trend. The hybride expression, it is to represent Korean thoughts and values using the tangible elements. Second, The expressivity of collaboration of each year mostly shows integrated expression, intangible expression and tangible expression were shown respectively. The trend of seasonal collaboration expressivity was muchly the integrated expression in most seasons, and intangible expression and tangible expression followed respectively. It is recognizable that the expressivity of collaboration of each designer was; integrated expression was muchly shown in Lie Sang Bong and Lee Young Hee's works, Duri Jung showed much of intangible expression, and much tangible expressivity was shown in Carolina Herrera.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.511-518
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• 2009

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. Deformation of the body denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. Bodily deformation carried out historical and cultural pastiche opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism which results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\acute{e}}$ of clothing. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily deformation as pastiche, focusing on the relationship between clothes and the body. In order to inquire the deformation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the 21st century, using the method of literature research and content analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.2 s.8
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• pp.6-14
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine how the Chanel Collection, a famous brand acknowledged for it's modern style, was influenced by post-modernism. The scope of research includes initial concentration on 1920's boyish style of Chanel as well as its relative influence on modernism. Secondly, the research concentrates on Chanel Collections that Lagerfeld's designs were best represented. The results were as follows: The tendency to eroticism for fashion business, tendency to retro-fashion, tendency to popularization of sub-cultural group's fashion, tendency to no-match-mix, tendency to androgynous style, tendency to emphasis on ornaments in clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.71-86
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.101-116
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to understand the trends of fashion mask designs as a fashion item with characteristics to protect individual health and safety from harmful environments. To this end, the concept, the trend analysis of the domestic and foreign mask markets, the type, characteristics of functional masks, and the design trend of fashion masks were analyzed. Research methods included case studies and literaturte on mask design, fashion magazines, fashion brand websites, fashion collections, and promotional material. First, masks for personal safety were classified as protective function masks from the natural environment, functional masks by industrial groups, masks for protective functions from biohazards, and masks for protective functions from various external activities. Through this analysis, the design trends of fashion masks were analyzed. The functional orientation of structure and functionality, the environmental orientation of sustainable eco-friendly methods, the fashion orientation of individual fashion styling, and the social functional orientation tend to transmit social messages. In the harmful environment of everyday life, items such as fashion masks with functionality and fashion characteristics should be continuously studied to integrate functional and design characteristics that can contribute to the future fashion industry and the fashion market as a sense of unity and responsibility.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.29-44
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• 2023

From a sustainability perspective, the characteristics of upcycling fashion design by Marine Serre were analysed to understand upcycling fashion design, which can be an important way to follow sustainability values in the fashion industry, and to provide solutions for moving towards sustainable fashion. In order to derive the characteristics of upcycling fashion design from a sustainability perspective, the values of sustainable designs and the characteristics of the upcycling design were derived though the analysis of Marine Serre's seasonal collections from the 2018 F/W season to the recent 2022 F/W season. The research results are summarized as follows. First, the value of sustainable fashion design could be classified into environmental, economic, social, and cultural values. Second, Marine Serre's upcycling fashion design was driven by the characteristics of sustainable upcycling fashion design, such as environmentality, originality, variability, economy, handicraft, time, and availability. Third, Marine Serre's upcycling fashion design contained all environmental, economic, social, and cultural sustainability values. From a sustainability perspective, Marine Serre's upcycling fashion design can be said to be an upcycling fashion design with convergent values that encompasses all of the sustainability core values of environmental, economic, social, and cultural aspects.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.57-73
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• 2012

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of pleats design through the analysis of modern female fashion as they appear in the 'Collections' from '09 A/W to '12 S/S. Data collection of 1027 was done through the review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three cities; Milan, New York, Paris. Along with the qualitative interpretation of pleats design, statistical analysis of frequency and ${\chi}^2$-test were completed for data analysis. The main findings were as follows; 1. The five types of pleats design were founded in the order of accordion, knife, box, inverted, and sunburst pleats. The frequency and ratio of pleats design occurency showed significant difference between collections. 2. There were significant difference between the types of pleats and their line characteristics of thickness, continuity, length, direction. = Thin fabrics with delicate fine folds were mainly appeared in accordion and sunburst pleats. On the other hand, midium thickness fabrics were used for knife, box & inverted pleats, however, the different images were projected according to the width and the number of folds, characteristics of fabrics and textures. = In all the type of pleats but sunburst, continuity line was appeared the most. The discontinuous lines were appeared the most in the layered types and, sometimes, at some construction lines to add some decorative details or design variations. = The long line were the most frequently appeared in long one-pieces or long skirts of knife, accordion, sunburst pleats. While, the shorter lines showed the most frequently in box and inverted pleats, which mainly used for skirts or the lower part of one-piece. = For the line directions, the vertical lines were the most frequently appeared, and followed by mixed and diagonal line. In mixed or diagonal lines, same type of pleat was repeated in one design. For diagonal lines, one direction was mainly used, however, the symmetrical arrangements or repeated diagonal pleats in various directions also used. In mixed lines, the type of one or two diagonal and one vertical line was the most frequently appeared.