• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1024-1031
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• 2012

The thermal bonding PET fabrics were produced through high temperature steaming (HTS) of low melting PET yarn as warp and composite fancy yarn containing low melting PET yarn as weft. The low melting PET yarn of sheath-core structure consisted of a regular PET in core portion and low melting PET in sheath portion. The composite fancy yarn consisted of regular PET yarn as inner part and effect part and low melting PET yarn as binding part. This study was carried out to investigate the melting behavior of thermal bonded PET fabric, the effect of HTS on the thermal bonding, mechanical properties, and dyeing properties. The melting peak of low melting PET yarn showed two melting peaks caused by sheath-core structure. Almost the entire thermal bonding of the fancy PET fabrics containing low melting PET yarn has formed at $200^{\circ}C{\times}3min$ of HTS. The tensile strength in warp and weft direction of the fancy PET fabrics slightly decreased as temperature of HTS increased. The total K/S value of the fancy PET fabrics decreased slightly to $180^{\circ}C{\times}3min$ of HTS, while increased slightly above $200^{\circ}C{\times}3min$ of HTS. The changes in the hue angle ($H^{\circ}$) of the thermal bonded fancy PET fabrics dyed with disperse dyes hardly ever happened.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.176-181
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• 2003

Theoretical weavability limit relationships of fabrics from regular warp yarns and fancy filling yams with thickness variation in shuttleless weaving are reviewed. The relationships correlate maximum warp and filling cover factors, warp and filling yarn characteristics, the distribution of thick and thin places of filling yarn over the fabric surface, and the warp and filling weave factor. The research considers single filling feeder and multiple feeders cases. Additionally, comparisons between the weavability limit of regular yarns and fancy yams in shuttle and shuttleless weaving are given.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1333-1342
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• 2008

This study intended to evaluate the visual sensibility of textiles of knitting simulation through the painting function of SDS-ONE, a computer knitting system, with the use of various fancy yarns for hand knitting. For this study, six kinds of fancy yarns with difference manufacturing style and form were selected: loop yarn, tamtam yarn, fur1 yarn, fur2 yarn, ladder yarn, and tape yarn. In order to create a computer knitting simulation, paint function of SDS-ONE was employed to scan the fancy yarns for hand knitting with a scanner. Then, after the registration of the yarns as data, the yarn was brought in for knitting simulation in plain stitch with 3 gauge. After that a survey was conducted involving 60 female experts in their twenties. Using SPSS 12.0, factor analysis, reliability, Pearson correlation coefficient, ANOVA, Duncan test, and regression analysis were performed to analyze the collected data. First, according to the result of analyzing the visual sense factor, three factors of the 'inflexibleness/ruggedness sense', 'lightweight sense', and 'smoothness sense' was extracted. According to the result of analyzing the visual sensibility factor, three factors of the 'activity', 'grace', and 'purity' was extracted. Second, With regard to preference and purchase intention, the knitted fabric with tamtam yarn(H2) was preferred than the other samples, indicating that the respondents had intention to purchase it. As for word-of-mouth intention, H2 ranked the first place, implying the respondents had intention to recommend it to other people. Third, the examination of the use of products each knitting simulation knit found that sweater and muffler are the most appropriate knit products. And H2 was the most suitable sample for sweater and muffler products. This study tried to prove that knit textile can be visually evaluated through a computer knitting simulation without the actual knitting and then to provide accurate data to related companies or the academic circle.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.11-20
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• 2011

The yarn company needs to conform to the consumers' sensibility, which has become diverse, in developing its yarn, which fixes the matter property and the sensibility in knit product. In particular, the development of fancy yarn, which is expected to have great influence upon the sensibility of material due to being a diverse form of knit yarn, may increase activation of the knit industry. Eight different fancy yarns were chosen: loop, Ratine, tam tam, fur 1, fur 2, chenille, ladder and tape yarn. The manufacturing methods of these yarns are all different. The sensibility was evaluated through a questionnaire targeting 60 women in their 20s of the expert group. Factor analysis, reliability, correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan, and regression analysis were carried out by using SPSS 12.0. First, according to the results of analyzing the sense factor, three factors were extracted: 'inflexibleness/rugged', 'lightweight' and 'smooth'. 'Activity', 'grace' and 'purity' were extracted in regard to the sensibility factor. H3(tam tam) sample showed high value in all of preference, purchase intention and word-of-mouth intention. To increase consumers' preference, purchase intention, and word-of-mouth intention, its effect is thought to be likely to be possibly seen only when increasing the factor of pure and simple grace and when reducing the hard and stiff inflexibleness/ruggedness sense. It is expected to be likely to possibly secure marketability as knit product, which has product competitiveness, given the product planning in a company of producing knit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1010-1017
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• 2013

Current global textiles and fashion industries have gradually shifted focus to high value-added, high sensibility, and multi-functional products based on new human-friendliness and sustainable growth technologies. Textile design CAD systems have been developed in conjunction with computer hardware and software sector advances. This study compares the patterns or images of actual woven fabrics and virtual fabrics prepared with a textile design CAD system. In this study, several weave structures (such as fancy yarn weave and patterns) were prepared with a shuttle loom. The woven textile images were taken using a CCD camera. The same weave structure data and yarn data were fed into a textile design CAD system in order to simulate fabric images as similarly as possible. Similarity Index analysis methods allowed for an analysis of the index between the actual fabric specimen and the simulated image of the corresponding fabric. The results showed that repeated small pattern weaves provide superior similarity index values than those of a fancy yarn weave that indicate some irregularities due to fancy yarn attributes. A Complex Wavelet Structural Similarity(CW-SSIM) index resulted in a better index than other methods such as Multi-Scale(MS) SSIM, and Feature Similarity(FS) SSIM, across fabric specimen images. A correlation analysis of the similarity index based on an image analysis and a similarity evaluation by panel members was also implemented.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.90-90
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• 2012

극세섬유는, 1970년대 말부터 일본의 합섬업체들이 천연소재인 Silk를 모방하기 위해 개발을 시작하였으며, 개발된 섬유의 굵기가 0.5d(1denier=1g/9,000m)이하인 것을 말한다. 이후 극세사에 대한 끊임없는 노력으로, 1980년대에는 천연스웨이드 풍의 인조피혁의 제조가 가능한 0.1d이하급 초극세사가 N/P(Nylon/Polyester) 복합방사된 형태로 개발되었으며, 일본, 및 한국 등에서 이들 소재로 제조된 직편물 제품이 첨단 고부가소재로서 호황을 누려왔다. 이러한 초극세사는 다양한 형태로 발전되어왔는데, 해도형(Islands-in-a-Sea Type), N/P(Nylon/PET), P/N(PET/Nylon) 등이 대표적인 형태이며, 가공공정 중에서 분할이 되면서 그 특성을 발현한다고 하여 분할사, 형태에 따라서 N/P 분할사라 하기도 한다. 최근들어 이러한 N/P 분할사는 기존의 의류용 용도뿐만 아니라, Wiping Cloth, 극세사 타울, 항진드기용 침장 등 다양한 비의류용 소재로도 확대 전개되고 있으며, 이렇게 다양화 되어가고 있는 용도에 따른 공정별 최적 가공 방법에 대한 연구가 진행 중이다. 사가공 공정에 있어서는 텍스쳐링 방법이 적용되기도 하는데, 가장 보편화된 텍스쳐링 방법으로는 DTY(Draw Texturing Yarn), ATY(Air Texturing Yarn) 등의 형태가 있으며, 이러한 텍스쳐링 방법은 물성에 민감한 N/P 분할사의 강도, 신도, 분할도에 영향을 미치게 된다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 텍스쳐링 방법이 아닌 Fancy사 형태로 사가공을 하였으며, 직물로 제직하고, 분할 가공하여 직물로써의 물성까지 분석하였다. Fancy사는 색이나 형의 변화로 디자인효과를 준 실을 말하는데, 심사, 부사, 압사로 이뤄지며 의장사, 장식사 등으로 불려지기도 한다. 주요 공정을 보면, 크릴형성용 부사를 500-600T/M으로 가연한 연사를 얻는 제1공정과, 이 가연된 부사와 심사를 합사하는 제2공정 및 합사된 크릴의 뒤틀림을 방지하기 위하여 압사로 크릴을 고정하여 주는 제3공정으로 이루어진다. 사용된 N/P 분할사는 NP30/36dty, NP50/36dty를 사용하였으며, 부사의 오버피드 및 피드되는 사에 따라 각각 8종, 7종의 Fancy사를 제조하여 섬도(Denier), 강도(Tenacity), 신도(Elongation)를 측정하였다. 또한, 이들 사들로 제직 및 분할가공을 하여 인장강도, 인장신도, 인열강도, 마모강도, 공기투과도 등의 물성과 중량, 두께를 측정하였으며, 온도, NaOH 농도, 시간 등의 분할 가공조건에 따른 직물의 인열강도 변화도 측정하였다. 이렇게 공정별 조건에 따른 물성의 변화분석을 통해 추후 N/P의 제품화 전개에 도움이 되고자 하였다.

• 연구논문집
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• s.27
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• pp.127-139
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• 1997

Two-for-one twister is a kind of textile machine and makes special fancy yarn which is twisted two times per one revolution in order to increase tensile strength and wear resis-tance of yarn. Spindle mechanism has to be stable and continuous motion in high speed revolution, and then optimal design is necessary to analyze dynamic characteristics of spindle unit. Spindle unit is consist of blade and rotary disc that are cylindrical body of revolution. For analysis of the dynamic characteristics of spindle unit, transfer matrix method is used and a numerical code SPINDLE also. Torsion and natural bending frequency of the spindle unit are examined. Its displacement mode is studied in function of variable revolutions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.