• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.48-53
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Textec and Vamatex looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences. Fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^{\circledR$-Panter rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd., respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 1999

This study surveys the mechanical properties such as surface properties(MIU, MMD, SMD) to the weight reduction rate of PET fabrics. For this purpose, 12 kinds of satin and 18 kinds of plain weave fabrics are prepared with change of the physical properties of weft yarn(T.P.M., density, and denier). The weight reduction rate was 0%, 12%, 25%, and 30%. Coefficient of friction(MIU), mean deviation of friction(MMD), and geometrical roughness(SMD) of the fabrics were measured and discussed with wed twist, yarn linear density, weft fabric density and weave structures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.206-216
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to determine the pore size distributions (PSDs) of polyester woven fabrics by using liquid extraction method. Three types of PSDs-percent PSD, PSD per unit area of sample and PSD per unit weight of sample-were evaluated. Plain, twill and satin polyester fabrics with various fabric counts were used as specimens. Results showed that the interyarn PSDs reflected the fabric characteristics such as the fabric count and the weave type and the intrayarn PSDs reflected the thread characteristics such as the number of fibers, the fiber diameter, the thread diameter and the thread twist. Of three types of PSDs, the PSD per unit area of sample best reflect fabric and thread characteritics. As the fabric count decreased, rc increased and interyarn pore volume increased. The PSDs were skewed to the small pore sizes and the pore volumes decreased in the order of plain> twill> satin. As the number of fibers, the fiber diameter and the thread twist decreased, the intrayarn pore volumes were increased.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.298-311
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• 2019

In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics of the knitted and woven fabrics for bedding items are investigated in accordance with fabric structural parameters including the fiber type and proportion, the density of the fabric, and the knit/weave structure. The knit stitches and structure of the knit samples made an effect on tensile properties. The bending, shear and compression properties for the knit fabric were mainly affected by fiber contents of the samples. The tensile and bending properties of woven samples were highly correlated with the fabric density, thickness and structure, and those shear and compression properties were affected by the fiber contents and structure. Consequently, the primary hand values of the selected samples we developed were estimated to have good smoothness, fullness and softness, and soft feeling, which is well correlated to the parameters of consumer preference such as softness, warmness, and bulkiness. Also, their total hand values were increased.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.532-541
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• 2002

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.68-77
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• 2004

Hollow filament yarns provide better warmth to the touch, lighter in weight, increased opacity, and subtle luster compared to the regular synthetic filament yarns. However, luster properties of textile fibers or fabrics are often difficult to characterize, partly due to the fineness of the surface texture, the anisotropic nature of the weave structure, the complexity of the fiber array comprising a yarn, and the fiber structure itself. In this study, the fabric surface luster image was analyzed using image analysis methods after image acquisition. The hollow filament fiber was modeled using a three-dimensional modeling software. It was then ray-traced for comparing the virtual luster images of the hollow fiber and the regular fiber models based on shading models including photon mapping. The luster object size of the actual hollow filament fabric was smaller than that of the regular filament fabric. The shape of the luster object of the hollow filament fabric was dual peak type while that of the regular filament was single.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.295-304
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• 2016

This study was conducted to evaluate and compare the waterproofness and water vapor transport properties of 30 waterproof and breathable textiles in the market. MVTR upright cup test with water, MVTR inverted cup test with potassium acetate, and sweating hot plate test method were used for measuring the breathability of fabric samples. The waterproofness of all fabric samples and evaporative resistance of garment ensembles made with 5 selected waterproof and breathable textiles out of 30 samples were tested. The results of this study were as follows. The base fabrics of the most samples were basic weave structure with either polyester or nylon fiber. The waterproofness was over $5000mmH_2O$ for all the samples except densely woven fabrics. The evaporative resistance of garments that were made out of 5 fabric samples with a range of low to high breathability ranged $39.9{\sim}56.7m^2{\cdot}P{\cdot}W^{-1}$. The data of the water vapor transport properties of fabric samples varied with different test methods. Overall the bicomponent film fabrics showed better breathability and less standard deviation regardless of test methods. It is expected the breathability data without the information of test conditions used for marketing would confuse the consumers and the apparel manufacturers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.