• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.134-142
• /
• 2003

Performances of Taekwondo fabrics were evaluated in respect of fiber component. yarn count, weave structure and wearing comfort. As a beginning step, we investigated the present situation of Taekwondo wears by questionnaire from pro and amateur Taekwondo players. Samples employed in this study were cotton/nylon blend fabric that was newly woven for this study as well as fabrics of current Taekwondo wears for sale in the market. Their fundamental properties measured were such as air permeability, water vapor transport. wickability, absorption rate, Qmax values, thermal conductivity, durability, hand value, and etc. In addition, subjective wearing sensations were evaluated using Taekwondo wears made of those fabrics. From the results of the objective measurement and the subjective wearing test, we estimated the total fitness of fabrics as a Taekwondo wear. From the questionnaire we could see that pro players and amateurs wanted highly absorbing, quick drying, and soft-tough and complained abrasive surfaces and static elasticity of current fabrics. In view of the results so far achieved, nylon blended fabrics newly woven in this study, showed better comfort-related properties from both of the objective and subjective tests. It was also represented that finer yams enhanced water absorption and touch, and fabrics with rough surface such as honeycomb weave was superior in wearing comfort as well as aesthetic appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.3
• /
• pp.93-106
• /
• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• Composites Research
• /
• v.31 no.5
• /
• pp.276-281
• /
• 2018

In this paper, elastic behavior of woven fabric composites with various fiber yarn structure were predicted through a theoretical calculation model. A representative volume elements (RVE) that can represent the mechanical properties of the woven composites were selected and crimp angle of the weave yarn was defined by several sinusoidal functions. The effective material properties of the woven composite such as young's modulus, shear modulus and poisson's ratio was predicted by classical laminate theory (CLT). The fiber volume fractions were calculated according to the shape and pattern (plain, twill weave) of the fiber yarn, and the elastic behavior of each woven composite was obtained through a theoretical calculation model. Also, to verify the theoretical predictions, woven composite specimens of plain and twill weave were fabricated by vacuum assisted resin transfer molding (VARTM) process and then mechanical test was conducted. As a results, a good correlation between theoretical and experimental results for the elastic behavior of woven composites could be achieved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.42 no.4
• /
• pp.561-570
• /
• 2018

This study defined the changes of mechanical properties of silk fabric according to bias angles and investigated the influence of bias angles and fabric characteristics on hand value. For the experiments, 4 types of commercial silk plain weave fabrics were chosen. All fabrics had the same density, but different yarn characteristics. Fabric samples were cut into 12 different bias angles between $0^{\circ}$ and $165^{\circ}$ with $15^{\circ}$ gap and measured for tensile, shear, bending, surface properties by the KES-FB system. As a result, most mechanical parameters showed an asymmetry shape with $90^{\circ}$. The most flexible and easiest angles are $45^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$. Furthermore, the bias angles of silk fabrics were classified into three clusters with mechanical properties such as WT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, and SMD. The parameters according to fabric samples showed significant differences at WT, RT, B, 2HB, and MIU. It showed bigger effects as yarn fineness; in addition, twists were higher except RT. The results of hand value indicated that Koshi and Hari were highest with a bias angle of $75^{\circ}$; however, Shinayakasa was highest at bias angle of $45^{\circ}$. Finally, Shari was lowest at $45^{\circ}$.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.25-33
• /
• 2004

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the friction coefficient(MIU), mean deviation of the friction coefficient(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by OmegaR rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol-GTXR rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.10
• /
• pp.24-34
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• Composites Research
• /
• v.35 no.4
• /
• pp.269-276
• /
• 2022

In this paper, a composite stiffened panel was fabricated using a three-dimensional weaving method that can reduce the risk of delamination, and mechanical properties such as buckling load and natural frequency were investigated. The preform of the stringer and skin of the stiffened panel were fabricated in one piece using T800 grade carbon fiber and then, resin (EP2400) was injected into the preform. The compression test and natural frequency measurement were performed for the stiffened panel, and the results were compared with the finite element analyses. In order to compare the performance of 3D weaving structures, the stiffened panels with the same configuration were fabricated using UD and 2D plain weave (fabric) prepregs. Compared to the tested buckling load of the 3D woven panel, the buckling loads of the stiffened panels of UD prepreg and 2D plain weave exhibited +20% and -3% differences, respectively. From this study, it was confirmed that the buckling load of the stiffened panel manufactured by 3D weaving method was lower than that of the UD prepreg panel, but showed a slightly higher value than that of the 2D plain weave panel.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.8
• /
• pp.113-128
• /
• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.20 no.5
• /
• pp.1025-1034
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the evaluation of fabric characteristics on the drapability, texture image and preference of blouse fabrics, and to analyze the effects of the texture image, objective and subjective drapability on the preference. As specimen, silk and polyester fabrics were collected. 52 female subjects evaluated 16 specimens with semantic differential scale of 18 fabric image and 20 sensibility. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlational coefficient using spss win 12.0. For the evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, weave type, weight and thickness were analyzed. The results were as follows: The evaluation results of objective and subjective drapability showed differences. Sensory image factors of blouse fabrics were 'surface smoothness', 'elasticity', 'weight' and 'flexibility'. Sensibility image factors were 'elegance', 'classic', 'characteristic' and 'mannish'. 'Elegance', 'classic' and 'characteristic' of sensibility images showed high correlation with 'surface smoothness' and 'elasticity' of sensory image, also 'mannish' of sensibility image showed significant correlation with 'weight' of sensory image. The significant fabric characteristics affecting objective drapability were density, weight, thickness. The significant texture image factors affecting objective drapability were 'weight', 'flexibility' of sensory image and 'elegance' of sensibility image. On the other hand, the significant factors affecting subjective drapability were thickness of fabric characteristics and 'elegance', 'characteristic', 'mannish' of sensibility images. 'Elegance', 'characteristic' and 'classic' of sensibility image, 'elasticity' of sensory image and subjective drapability affected on the purchase preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.8
• /
• pp.5-16
• /
• 2000

This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.