• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1999.11a
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• pp.157-161
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• 1999

본 연구에서 직물의 열, 수분 전달특성과 KES-FB의 역학적 특성치, 직물표면의 fractal dimension을 측정하여 주관적 의복 착용 쾌적감을 예측하고자 하였다. 실험의복에 사용된 직물은 면 100% 평직물, 면/PET 혼방직물, 피치가공된 면/PET 혼방직물, PET 100% 평직물, 알칼리 감량가공된 PET 100% 크레이프 직물이었으며, 실험의복의 형태는 긴 소매 셔츠로 하였다. 착용실험은 온도 29$\pm$0.5$^{\circ}C$, 상대습도 75$\pm$2%RH, 기류 0.15m/s를 유지하는 항온항습실에서 실시하였고 36명의 여성 피험자(20-23세)들이 참여하였다. 의복 착용감의 하위 구성차원을 파악하기 위해 실험결과를 요인분석한 결과 5 개의 요인으로 추출되었다. 제 1 요인은 체온상승, 수분특성과 관련이 있는 온열.발한감이었으며, 제 2 요인은 무게ㆍ두께감, 제 3 요인은 회복특성감, 제 4 요인은 표면접촉감, 제 5 요인은 온냉감으로 구성되었다. 직물의 표면특성을 정량화하는 방법으로 도입한 fractal dimension 의 분석값들과 종래의 가장 보편적으로 이용되어 온 KES_FB 의 표면 특성치들이 주관적 착용쾌적감 예측에 얼마나 기여하는지 비교해 본 결과, 표면접촉감은 fractal dimension, 접촉점들의 총면적, 접촉점들의 평균 axis ratio, MMD, SMD와 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 또한 종합적 착용쾌적감에 대해서는 SMD 를 제외한 척도들이 유의한 상관을 보였으며, 그 중에서도 fractal dimension 과 접촉점들의 총면적은 0.8 이상의 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 착용쾌적감을 예측하기 위한 회귀분석결과에서는 fractal dimension 만으로 쾌적감의 74%가 설명되었으며 공기 투과도를 첨가하면 두 변수로 $R^2$=.792가 되었다. 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.tosterone농도는 107.7$\pm$12.0 pmol／l이었고, 남성의 타액내 농도는 274.2$\pm$22.1 pmol／l이었다. 이상의 결과로 보아 본 연구에서 정립된 EIA 방법은 RIA를 대신하여 소규모의 실험실에서도 활용할 수 있을 것으로 사려된다.또한 상실기 이후 배아에서 합성되며, 발생시기에 따라 그 영향이 다르고 팽창과 부화에 관여하는 것으로 사료된다. 더욱이, 조선의 ${\ulcorner}$구성교육${\lrcorner}$이 조선총독부의 관리하에서 실행되었다는 것을, 당시의 사범학교를 중심으로 한 교육조직을 기술한 문헌에 의해 규명시켰다.nd of letter design which represents -natural objects and was popular at the time of Yukjo Dynasty, and there are some documents of that period left both in Japan and Korea. "Hyojedo" in Korea is supposed to have been influenced by the letter design. Asite- is also considered to have been "Japanese Letter Jobcheso." Therefore, the purpose of this study is to look into the origin of the letter designs in t

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.81-92
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• 2021

In this study, we investigated the effects of five EMS lumbar back pressure belts produced on an anatomical basis on lumbar spine stabilization. Five core muscles were selected, including the urinal, vertebral column, endotracheal, external abdominal, and large back muscles, and patterns were designed using a conductive fabric considering the appropriate muscle shape and pain-causing points. We experimented with four motions to examine the effects of different EMS abdominal compression belts on lumbar spine stabilization. Five healthy men in their 20s were selected. The selection conditions include no back pain history for the past three months, no restricted movements through pre-inspection, and the muscular strength of the body should belong to the normal grade. Using SLR, the sequence of experimental actions was chosen from the following but not limited to left-hand, body-hand, and back-line forces. Resting between movements lasted for 2 min, and the experiments were conducted after wearing the EMS abdominal pressure belt. Electrical stimulation was applied for 10 min to increase blood flow and muscle activation. The statistics of the experimental results were analyzed for specific differences by conducting the Wilcoxon and Friedman tests with nonparametric tests. The ranking results of each pattern were successfully assessed in the order of 5, 4, 3, 1, 2 for the five patterns, and we could identify slightly more significant results for experimental behavior associated with each muscle movement. Patterns produced based on anatomy showed differentiated effects when electric stimulation was applied to each muscle in different shapes, which could improve the stabilization of the lumbar spine in everyday life or training to the public. Based on these results, subsequent research would focus on developing smart healthcare clothing that is practical in daily life by employing different anatomical mechanisms, depending on the back pain, to utilize trunk-type tights.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.67-78
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• 2022

Interest in bio-signal monitoring of wearable devices is increasing significantly as the next generation needs to develop new devices to dominate the global market of the information and communication technology industry. Accordingly, this research developed a resistive textile strain sensor through a wetting process in a single-wall carbon nanotube dispersion solution using an E-Band with low hysteresis. To measure the resistance signal in the E-Band to which electrical conductivity is applied, a universal material tester, an Arduino, and LCR meters that are microcontroller units were used to measure the resistance change according to the tensile change. To effectively handle various noises generated due to the characteristics of the fabric textile strain sensor, the filter performance of the sensor was evaluated using the moving average filter, Savitsky-Golay filter, and intermediate filters of signal processing. As a result, the reliability of the filtering result of the moving average filter was at least 89.82% with a maximum of 97.87%, and moving average filtering was suitable as the noise filtering method of the textile strain sensor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.136-148
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• 2009

The phenomenon of the shrinkage of silk fibers induced by inorganic salts including LiBr, $Ca(NO_3){_2}$, and $CaCl_2$, has been studied up to the present as one of the finishing methods of silk. It is expected that the shrinkage phenomenon may greatly contribute to the realization of the high sensibility of silk fibers. Especially the shrinkage enables the expression of three-dimensional appearance of silk fabrics along with the improvements in dimensional stability, resilience in stretching, and comfort. Numerous theoretical studies on the contraction phenomenon by $Ca(NO_3){_2}$ have been conducted so far. These studies have focused mostly on the silk fibers. It is difficult to find studies on silk fabrics. The negative aspects of the finishing are such as strength drop, yellowish discoloration, and fiber damage. These should also be considered as well as the positive aspects. In this study, the phenomenon of salt shrinkage is diversely reviewed by applying $Ca(NO_3){_2}$ solution for the silk fabrics as objects. The changes in the air permeability, thickness, and color were investigated with focus on the shrinkage of the silk fabrics according to the changes in treatment conditions. Some findings from this study are as follows: Within short period of time at the initiation of salt shrinkage, the salt shrinkage proceeds effectively. In the case of concentration of 47.4%, or 46.3% of $Ca(NO_3){_2}$ solution, appropriate treatment time seems to be 20seconds, or $2{\sim}8$minutes, respectively. Excessive shrinkage is obtained when lower liquor ratio is adopted. As a result, the condition is acting extremely disadvantageously against the thickness and yellow discoloration aspects.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2020

This study aimed to develop a modular smart clothing system for heart rate monitoring that reduces the inconvenience caused by battery charging and the large size of measurement devices. The heart rate monitoring system was modularized into a temporary device and a continuous device to enable heart rate monitoring depending on the requirement. The temporary device with near-field communication (NFC) and heart rate sensors was developed as a clothing attachment type that enables heart rate monitoring via smart phone tagging when required. The continuous device is based on Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) communication and batteries and was developed to enable continuous heart rate measurement via a direct connection to the temporary device. Furthermore, the temporary device was configured to connect with a textile electrode made of a silver-based knitted fabric designed to be located below the pectoralis major muscle for heart rate measurement. Considering the user-experience factors, key functions, and the ease of use, we developed an application to automatically log through smart phone tagging to improve usability. To evaluate the accuracy of the heart rate measurement, we recorded the heart rate of 10 healthy male subjects with a modular smart clothing system and compared the results with the heart rate values measured by the Polar RS800. Consequently, the average heart rate value measured by the temporary system was 85.37, while that measured by the reference device was 87.03, corresponding to an accuracy of 96.73%. No significant difference was found in comparison with the reference device (T value = -1.892, p = .091). Similarly, the average heart rate measured by the continuous system was 86.00, while that measured by the reference device was 86.97, corresponding to an accuracy of 97.16%. No significant difference was found in terms of the heart rate value between the two signals (T value = 1.089, p = .304). The significance of this study is to develop and validate a modular clothing system that can measure heart rates according to the purpose of the user. The developed modular smart clothing system for heart rate monitoring enables dual product planning by reducing the price increase due to unnecessary functions.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.149-160
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• 2023

This study develops a time-varying system-based noncontact fabric sensor that can measure cerebral blood-flow signals to explore the possibility of brain blood-signal detection and emotional evaluation. The textile sensor was implemented as a coil-type sensor by combining 30 silver threads of 40 deniers and then embroidering it with the computer machine. For the cerebral blood-flow measurement experiment, subjects were asked to attach a coil-type sensor to the carotid artery area, wear an electrocardiogram (ECG) electrode and a respiration (RSP) measurement belt. In addition, Doppler ultrasonography was performed using an ultrasonic diagnostic device to measure the speed of blood flow. The subject was asked to wear Meta Quest 2, measure the blood-flow change signal when viewing the manipulated image visual stimulus, and fill out an emotional-evaluation questionnaire. The measurement results show that the textile-sensor-measured signal also changes with a change in the blood-flow rate signal measured using the Doppler ultrasonography. These findings verify that the cerebral blood-flow signal can be measured using a coil-type textile sensor. In addition, the HRV extracted from ECG and PLL signals (textile sensor signals) are calculated and compared for emotional evaluation. The comparison results show that for the change in the ratio because of the activation of the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems due to visual stimulation, the values calculated using the textile sensor and ECG signals tend to be similar. In conclusion, a the proposed time-varying system-based coil-type textile sensor can be used to study changes in the cerebral blood flow and monitor emotions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.137-154
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• 2002

It's not easy to renew old brand of over 50 years history to the tastes of new consumer of our time. Most of national brands that has a history of some 20 years in Korea have strove for continuation and growth of brand to no avails, which can be taken as a good example of current situation. For instance, C company, one of the National brand of US which has a history of 51 years, has made its position secure as a fashion group and based itself on a sound foundation by establishing new marketing strategy and completing successful brand renewal in the process of strategic M&A with Italian company. Those successful marketing strategies are as follows. 1) they regarded both market and consumer oriented marketing activity as company's highest priority strategy and put great emphasis upon concentration on target market and reestablishment of brand image of business casual wear. 2) Setting up and operating planning team composed of merchandizer alone in Milano, they set the direction of plan on the basis of concentrated research on potential item in market according to thorough market research done by buying office in Korea, branch office in Hong Kong and buyer in US prior to blueprint planning for season. 3) Great emphasis was placed on business which focused on intensive presentation of basic key item for apparel career women who are main consumer group in the midium-low prices market in US and on supplementation of size and color. they named this line 'collectibles' and helped their customer develop their own clothes plan without worrying about the change of color and fabric by supporting same fabric and color throughout the year and enabled them to add variation easily by supplementing new trend item. 4) Company set black as a main color that lots of apparel career women find easy to care and to express their own image and presented them with pebble which belongs to navy and beige and added fashion color such as wine and brown etc as season goes by. They constructed basic line in order for their customers to coordinate purchased item with new one or to add them to present collection, and to achieve efficient sale by setting up strategy which allows this cross coordination and changing pattern occasionally. 5) Though basic jacket for 99$, short slim skirt for 49$ are products within midium-low prices range, in the material planning stage aiming at production of item that has both resonable function appealing to consumer and is fashionable, synthetic material had to be used as a main source due to price competitiveness. Despite this situation, considering comfortable sense of fit and refined drape of silhouette that has no sign of cheap material, whole collectible line was divided into two items, which contributed to reduction of cost. In case of material that is composed of triacetate and polyester in 70 to 30 ratio, was used up to 4 million yard, which allowed drastic curtailment of cost accompanied by concentration. In case of 'collectibles' line, using Korean material mainly, C company chose to have their product sewed in Southeast Asian countries where transportation is well developed and both productivity and quality verified by operating global production system which aiming at cutdown of cost through outsourcing production from the country where labor cost is low and getting finished product. Polarization between present consumers telling us that consumers with the mind of middle classes in the past no longer exists between consumers who seek after only fine article of highest quality and wise consumers who are sensible enough to judge bubble on correlation between price and quality. To cope with this change in new consumer mind, apparel makes changing their policy so as to produce item that has reasonable quality and falls within affordable price range anywhere in the world. and they're striving to get out of difficult situation by operating global marketing strategy which stresses separation of planning, production and sale and sensibility of fashion shared worldwide. The marketing strategy of C company can be exemplified as a successful one.