• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.28-41
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• 2015

Properties of textile fabrics influence the appearance, aesthetics, and performance of garment. Drape and related properties of fabrics affect profoundly the static and dynamic appearance during wearer's movement. The three dimensional shape of the folded structure often deforms with time or with subtle vibration around the fabric specimen during the drape measurement. Due to the uneven and complex nature of fabrics, the overall shape of the fabric specimen on the drape tester often becomes unstable. There is a need to understand the fundamental mechanisms of how draping may generate pleasing forms. Two drape test methods, conventional Cusick drape test, and in-built drape tester, based on a depth camera, are compared. Fabric specimens including cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester, and rayon are investigated for the fabric drape and other physical/mechanical parameters. Drape coefficient values of fabric specimens are compared based on the final drape images, together with the intermediate 3D drape images of the specimens during elevation process of the drape tester equipped with a stepper motor system. The correlation coefficient between the data based on the two methods is reasonably high. Another advantage from the depth camera system is that it allows further analysis of three-dimensional information regarding the fabric drape shape, including the shape of nodes or crest and trough.

• 감성과학
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.117-126
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• 2011

이 연구는 감성의류용 형상기억 메모리직물의 제조 방법과 물성을 조사하기 위해 저온열처리와 정장열처리 가연법을 폴리프로필렌 POY와 SDY에 각각 적용하고 이들 사를 사용하여 PP형상기억메모리 직물을 air-jet직기에서 제조하였다. 물성비교를 위해서 PET와 PTT형상기억메모리 직물도 같이 제직하여 4가지 형상기억 메모리 직물시료를 만들고 이들의 여러 가지 물성을 측정 비료분석하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. PP형상기억 메모리 직물에 사용하기 위해 저온가연법과 정장열처리법에 의해 만든 PP가연사의 물성은 절단강 신도가제직성에 문제가 없는 값을 가졌으며 특히 열수축율이 습열은 1.5% 이하 건열은 3~5% 범위를 가짐으로써 PTT의 5~8%의 높은 열수축율에 비해 열적 안정성을 가졌다. PP형상기억 메모리 소재의 변형된 형태를 유지하는 소성적 성능 특성 평가법인 Toray 방추성 평가는 PP소재가 PTT와 같은 5급을 나타냄으로써 우수한 변형 유지특성을 보였다. 또한 PP형상기억 메모리소재의 보온성은 PTT소재보다 약 56% 향상된 결과를 보였으며 스프레이법에 의한 발수성은 PTT소재에 발수처리한 소재와 동일하게 5급의 우수한 발수성을 보였다. 그리고 PP형상기억 메모리소재의 형상기억 특성을 평가 할 목적으로 3D 이미지 방법과 카메라 측정결과 PTT소재와 비슷한 형상기억 특성을 보임을 확인 할 수 있었다.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.34-36
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• 2001

Chirimen (silk crepe) has been one of Japan's most distinctive textiles since times and has gained a reputation worldwide as the supreme example of Japanese costume. It is because of its distinctive quality and features, transcending the history, lacation and lacal of the people who wear this form of clothing, that chirimen has continued to highly valued over a long historical period. There is a wide range of literature on the subject of chirimen written from the standpoints of introducing the various types of material, discussing its history, and looking at the origins of the textile unions. However, most such writings are little more than fragmentary attempts to describe these matters from an empirical and publicity-oriented position. Very little serious research has ever been published in this area. In the present study I examine the features of chirimen. I began by directly interviewing kimono wholesalers, kimono stores and Western-style clothing stores on the subject of chirimen in order to establish a clear image of this fabric. I then went on to examine the subject experimentally in terms of the physical properties of the fabric in connection with the features of this image. In the study of the physical properties of the material, I selected habutae as a silk fabric to offer comparisons with chirimen. Habutae is used frequently together with chirimen in garments such as semi-formal visiting kimono (homongi), kimono in non-color fabric (ironashiji), mouming kimono (mofuku), broad-sleeved kimono (tomesode and furisode), and undergarments such ad juban.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.153-159
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• 2014

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2006

This study was designed to analyze the three-dimensional shapes of Hanbok Chima made with various fabrics and to clarify the relationship between fabric properties as well as the objective and subjective evaluations of the 3D shape. For 3D shape data, a dress form (9A2 (N; nude)) was scanned with eight Chima garments made with the same number of fabrics. The scanner used was a non-contact three-dimensional human body measuring system belonging to Bunka Women's University in Japan. Data concerning the objective evaluation of the 3D shape was obtained from the measurements of the vertical and horizontal sections: those for subjective evaluation were through the sensory test after exposure to photographs from a front and side view. Four fabric factors were extracted from fabric physical properties: softness, extension, thickness of threads, and weight of fabric. Such factors as expansion (volume), sag of rear train, shape of nodes were influential in explaining the 3D shape of Hanbok Chima. From the analysis of the 3D shape, it can be deduced that with the constituent fabric stiffer, lighter, and less stretchable, the more expanded the 3D shape appeared to be. Multiple regression results showed that vertical shape factors have a greater effect on the evaluation of the 3D shape. It also implies that dependent variables of this study such as the subjective evaluation and 3D shape can be derived from regression equations on independent variables as fabric property factors or 3D shape factors. These results can enable the manufacturers to predict the 3D shape of the garment as well as the human subjective assessment to improve the efficacy of production. The investigation method proposed in this study can also be applicable to other garment items.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.1-7
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• 1998

In this study, PET fabric was hydrolyzed with NaOH using the Tank m/c and Liquor-flow m/c to determine the alkali hydrolysis properties of PET fabrics. The results were as follows ： The weft density and tensile strength of PET fabrics hydrolyzed with Liquor-flow m/c were higher than those hydrolyzed with Tank m/c in case of less than 10％ of weight loss. However, above 10％ of weight loss, reverse phenomenon was showed. K/S value of hydrolyzed PET with Liquor-flow m/c was higher than that with Tank m/c above 10％ of weight loss. It was observed that the micropores of PET surface were collapsed due to physical force(abrasion and collision) during hydrolysis. Bending rigidity of hydrolyzed PET fabric was about 32％ and 40％ of bending rigidity of warp and weft direction of untreated fabric at 7％ of weight loss, respectively. Above 7％ of weight loss, decrease rate was decreased.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2008년도 제38차 학술발표대회
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• pp.37-39
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to improve the defects of DPP fabric by heat setting and to describe the change of physical properties of DPP fabrics. The thermosetting was carried out in autoclave from 100 to 140$^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 10min.. In this study, we investigated the effect of the thermosetting temperatures on the structural, thermal, mechanical properties and dyeability of DPP fabrics. The melting peak of multi peak changed to single peak with an increased thermosetting temperatures. The melting energy(J/g), the tensile strength and elongation were found to increase with increasing temperature of heat setting. The diffraction peak at Bragg angle(2${\theta}$) about 13.8$^{\circ}$ were very strong, and diffraction intensity, d-spacing and half-width decreased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. On the other hand, the dyeability(K/S) and crease recovery decreased with an increasing thermosetting temperatures.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.481-487
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to improve the defects of dyeable polypropylene(DPP) fabric by heat setting and to describe the change of physical properties of DPP fabrics. The thermosetting was carried out in autoclave from 100 to $140^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 2 min. In this study, we investigated the effect of the thermosetting temperatures on the structural, thermal, mechanical properties(e.g., the strength and elongation) and dyeability of DPP fabrics. The melting energy(J/g), the tensile strength was found to increase with increasing temperature of thermosetting. The diffraction peak at Bragg angle($2{\theta}$) about $13.8^{\circ}$ were very strong and diffraction intensity increased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. And d-spacing and half-width decreased with increasing thermosetting temperatures. On the other hand, the dyeability(K/S) and crease recovery decreased with an increasing thermosetting temperatures.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.50-56
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• 2003

Chitosan has been widely applied to the products in various industries such as textile fabrics, apparels, foods, medical area, etc. Cochineal has long been employed as one of natural dyestuffs in the textile industry. The effect of chitosan pre-treatment on the low-stress physical and mechanical properties of cochineal-dyed fabrics including cotton, silk, nylon and polyester fabrics was investigated in this study. The chitosan treatment and mordanting of the fabrics changed the bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of the fabrics. In cotton fabric specimens, while the increase of B(bending rigidity) of cotton is relatively high, the increase of G(shear rigidity) of cotton is relatively low. In nylon and PET fabric specimens, while the increase tendency of B is relatively low, that of G is high compared to the corresponding cotton fabrics.