• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.594-603
• /
• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.2
• /
• pp.185-192
• /
• 1998

The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.17 no.5 s.84
• /
• pp.45-52
• /
• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.5
• /
• pp.592-599
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate consumer needs, image sensibility and preference of bedding fabric according to size and spacing of dot pattern. 18 kinds of dot pattern fabrics were designed with different diameters(6, 8, 10cm) and distances(4, 7, 10cm) in regular arrangement of diamond figure. The subjects were 162 male and female university students. The data were analyzed by SPSS 24.0. Fabrics were assessed subjectively using a 5-point scale 17 consumer needs and 33 sensory descriptors. The most consumer's needs for bedding fabric was shown to be functionality of bedding including hygiene, touch, warmth, ease of washing and management, air permeability, and hygroscopicity. The other parameters of consumer's needs were shown to be physical property and design parameter. The results of analysis of the dimension of image sensibility for fabrics with different size and spacing of dots are derived from six factors including joyfulness, coziness, uniqueness, charm, femininity, and complexity. As a result of analysis of preference with fabric kinds, there was a significant difference in preference with fabrics. The preferred fabrics were characterized by the pattern and the base fabric being striking three-dimensionally with 1/3 twill and 3/1 twill fabric. Sensory descriptors related to joyful image and unique image were analyzed as evaluation terms that can distinguish the preferences of fabrics. Correlation analysis showed the fabrics are preferred as the difference in luminance and reflectance between the base and pattern of the fabric become larger and the spacing of patterns become closer.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.31 no.1
• /
• pp.18-33
• /
• 2023

Zero-waste pattern cutting is a groundbreaking sustainable fashion practice. However, few brands and designers have pursued this method because it requires creative pattern design that diverges from the existing process of using pattern slopers. Therefore, application within the fashion industry is not sufficient. Therefore, in an attempt to highlight the key characteristics of zero-waste pattern design, this study classifies and analyzes cases in which similar designs employ zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques. We hope to make zero-waste pattern design more accessible by presenting realistic pattern-cutting guidelines. To this end, theoretical research on relevant literature, previous research, and online resources and an empirical analysis of cases involving zero-waste pattern cutting were conducted in parallel. As a result of the study, we were able to classify the factors of zero-waste pattern design in terms of fabric use, design, and composition. Regarding materials, our research revealed the importance of appropriate fabric width, understanding the difference between waste minimization and minimal fabric use, and easy reuse and recycling. In terms of design, the simultaneous progress of pattern and design work, adjustable loose silhouettes, and the use of surplus fabric for functional and decorative details emerged as key characteristics. For composition, we found that size adjustment limits, arrangement irregularity, and pattern shapes were crucial elements and that various arrangements revealed unlimited design potential.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.104-111
• /
• 2019

This study was developed using the DTP (digital textile printing) jacquard fabrics with a three-dimensional pattern for bag and evaluated the preference and emotional structure. The following conclusions were obtained. Three-dimensional patterns of 12 species using the illustrator program, including six kinds of designs based on the text and six kinds of character types based on the geometry of the basic design was developed. As a result of evaluating the preference of the three-dimensional pattern jacquard fabric, the most preferred fabric was a three-dimensional patterned jacquard fabric with a motif of the Korean consonant "ㅅ". The results of analyzing the emotional dimension of the three-dimensional pattern jacquard fabric, eight factors including simple image, feminine image, exotic image, graphic image, sporty image, masculine image, dynamic image and stereoscopic image were derived. Between emotional factors and preferences correlation analysis showed the stronger the simple image, the feminine image, and the sporty image, the more preferable. It suggested the possibility of a morphological and new fabric for bag, textile design motifs by using Hangul consonants attempt to limit the flatness of the existing geometric form patterns that can be applied to three-dimensional bag whether swirly patterns overcome.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.35
• /
• pp.181-193
• /
• 1997

The objectives of this study were to classify bedclothes purchase motives and to examine how bedclothes purchase mo-tives and design preferences very accord-ing to age and income. Samples were 217 housewives residing in metropolitan area. Questionnaire included 17 Likert type items of bedclothes pur-chase motive measure 12 items of color preference 7 items of pattern (floral geo-metric abstract stripe plaid polka dot, and paisley pattern). The results of the study were as fol-lows. 1. 5 factors of bedclothes purchase mo-tives were derived by factor analysis ; F .1 'design': F 2. "brand' ; F.3. 'deficiency'; F. 4. 'fabric' F.5. 'economical reason' 2. Subjects perceived design and utility area to be important motives for bed-clothes purchase. 3. Cholor preference of bedclothes was in the order of white pale blue pale green and pale orange. Pattern preference was in the order of stripe plaid solid color floral and polka dot pattern. The combi-nation of patterned fabric and solid color fabric was liked better than the combina-tion of analogic color and the combination of contrasting color. 4. The women in their 20's liked navy blue red stripe plaid pattern and solied color better than 30's and 40's . 40's liked abstract and paisley pattern better then 20's and 30's 5. Low income group lied navy blue and solid color fabric more than the mid-dle and high income group and liked ab-stract pattern less than the middle and high income group. 6. Women in their 20's perceived design to be important motive more than 30's and 40's. 30's perceived brand to be im-portant motive than 20's and 40's 7. High income group perceived design to be important motive more than the middle and low income group. Low in-come group perceived brand and fabric to be less important motives than the middle and high income group, The present findings provide that age and income had a significant effect on bedclothes purchase motives and design preferences of houesewives. The results that white color and the combination of patterned fabric and solid color fabric were liked best indicated that women prefered clean image and chacteristics de-sign of bdeclothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.4
• /
• pp.400-406
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.101-114
• /
• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.2
• /
• pp.62-74
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this research is to analyse the process of development and verification of 'National Competency Standards' of Hanbok production, which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. As the result of this research, the definition of the duty in Hanbok production is 'to conduct a series of step-by-step processes of planning and developing fabric and design, then making pattern, cutting fabric and sewing.' The competency unit for Hanbok production is analyzed in 10 categories: analysis of market trends, design plan, production and manipulation of fabric, production process plan, sample making, pattern making, cutting out, sewing, finishing sewing, inspection of the product quality. Competency unit elements of each competency unit are as follows. 1) analysis of market trends: to research market trend resources, to analyse consumers' buying trend, to analyse industry changes, 2) design plan: to develop design, to plan fabrication, to draw flats, 3) production and manipulation of fabric: to develop fabric planning, to prepare fabric manipulation, to conduct fabric manipulation, 4) production process plan: to grasp design, to plan sewing method, to prepare a specification sheet, 5) sample making: to make a sample pattern, to cut sample fabrics, to sew sample, to finish sample making, 6) pattern making: to measure body, to make production pattern, to adjust production pattern, 7) cutting out: to care fabrics, to lay out patterns, to cut out fabrics, 8) sewing: to sew a garment, to sew a lining, to attach a lining, 9) finishing sewing: to neaten edges, to attach trims, to press to finish, 10) inspection of the product quality: to confirm correspondence with the specification sheet, to inspect appearance.