• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.129-135
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• 2005

The purposes of this study were to investigate the subjective preference for odors, which has been an important factor for selecting fabric softner, and to identify the structure of sensibility of odors. Among six different odors, the subjects preferred freesia, blue bianca, violet, herb, green tea, and peach, in that order. Compared to male subjects, female subjects preferred freesia, herb, and blue bianca. The structure of odor sensibility to freesia showed 5 different factors and the odor sensibility to peach showed 6 different factors. Therefore, the structure of odor sensibility according to different odors was a bit different. Common factors of freesia odor and peach odor were aesthetics, character, excitement and intensity.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.673-686
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to identify consumer needs and sensory evaluation of jacquard fabrics for blind using low melting polyester. Ten kinds of jacquard fabric used for this study were developed. Developed jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 164 consumers using 7-point scale of 22 consumer needs and 43 sensory descriptors. The results were briefly summarized as follows: the most important parameter to choose fabric for blind was 'Easy-use' and the other parameters are 'Lightproof', 'UV-protect', 'Design', 'Price', 'Color', 'Insulation', 'Easy-care'. The image sensibility of jacquard fabrics was explained by six factors: feminine, active, modern, traditional, pure, cozy. Higher preference was found in jacquard fabrics of clear, natural, luxurious, simple, feminine, young, cozy, graceful image. The preference was predicted 38.2% with feminine, modern, pure, cozy, traditional factors. Correlation coefficient between image sensibility factor 1 and preference was 0.437. The 3 factors (feminine, modern, pure)were selected as significant image sensibility affecting preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.470-474
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• 1993

This study carried out to get some fundamental data for designing lightweight bedding. In This study, the wool blanket, polyester/cotton blended blanket and down quilt were manufactured with a varied materials, structural factors such as yam count, fabric density respectivelyarn. And also, the thermal insulation value of the bedding were measured by warmth retaining tester. In addition, this paper examines the influence of varying materials, structural factors and blanket layers on the thermal insulation effect of the bedding. The main results obtained from this study are as follow : 1. The design of lightweight blankets make an attempting with a varying materials and structural factors such as yam count, fabric densityarn. 2. Almost, the design of lightweight blankets for polyester/cotton blended blanket and down quilt make an attempting without reduction in thermal insulation values. 3. The 6 layers of blanket have less thermal insulation value than the 6 times of blanket for under a layer have. About 27~32% decrease is observed in thermal insulation value of blanket for under 6 layer. 4. The thermal insulation value and areal weight of blankets have a positive relation between the thermal insulation value(Y) and areal weight(X) is based on the following equation. wool blanket : Y = 1.0850X + 0.4188 (r = 0.9992) PIC blended blanket : Y = 0.8845X + 0.3034 (r = 0.9999)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.17-26
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• 1982

This article aims to determine the interrelation among exfoliation strength, the repeated laundry number, the coefficient of friction and the cover factor about the fusible interlining produced by using different amount resin. The practicality of stiffness and warmth of the fusible interling were examined. The results are summarized as follows: 1) As a factor that affecting the exfoliation strength of fusible interlining, the coefficient of friction and the cover factor about the fusible interlining produced by using different amount resin. (2) Regardless of the weight of the resin, the exfoliation strength of fusible interlining declined gradually as the repeated laundry number increased. This tendency arises much more in the case of the filament yarn fabric than in that of the spun yarn fabric. The stability of the exfoliation strength was better, regardless of the increase of the repeated laundry number, when the weight of the weight of the resin was 10 g/$m^2$. (3) The spun yarn fabric, which has more fuzz than the filament yarn fabric, is more suitable for the fabric of fusible interlining. The smaller the cover factor difference between the face cloth and the interlining cloth, the stronger the exfoliation strength. (4) When the stability of the shape is a necessary factor in the consumption of the fusible interlining, a resin weight of 20 g/$m^2$ is the most suitable; however when stiffness and warmth are necessary factors, a resin weight of 10 g/$m^2$ is the most suitable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.650-661
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a guidance to select proper muslin through investigating fabric characteristics. The structural and physical properties of muslin and top fabric samples were tested by KES-FB system and other testers. And in order to examine the relation between fabric characteristics and the shape of garments, wearing tests were done with jackets made of those samples. As a result, bending rigidity(B), bending hysteresis(2HB), shear stiffness(G), shear hysteresis at=0.5(2HG), shear hysteresis at=5(2HG5), stiffness, cloth count/5cm, weight, thickness were extracted as the key factors affecting the appearance of garments. To have similar appearance, all of these should be counted. After standardizing, we calculate the variance between top cloth and muslin. And from this we could get the range that the proper muslin should be included. The ranges were as follows: Bending rigidity(B): within 0.024g.$\textrm{cm}^2$/cm(0.3$\sigma$); Shear stiffness(G): within 2.21g/cm.degree(1.3$\sigma$) Weight: within 9.33mg/$\textrm{cm}^2$(18$\sigma$); Thickness: within 0.20mm(1.8$\sigma$)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.327-338
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• 1994

KES-F system is widely used in hand evaluation, however, it has encountered some challenges, such as the overlapping of primary hand value, lack of predictability in case of women's thin dress, difficulties in communication due to complexity of primary hand expression and cultural differences in subjective evaluation. Therefore, this study was intended 1) to find out the Korean primary hand expressions(factors) of the overall concept of fabric hand associated with women's spring- fall dress fabrics, 2) to develope the fabric hand attributes of those fabrics and 3) to show whether there are any differences between Korean textile experts and non-experts in terms of the concept of fabric hand descriptors of hand attributes. Data base of hand descriptors were collected by extensive interview 60 experts and 10 non - experts using 110 spring-fall dress fabrics. Finally, hand of selected fabrics was assessed by 205 experts and 265 non-experts using 7-point scale of 26 descriptors based on the data base. Subjective ratings were analyzed by common factor analysis with varimax rotation. It was found that Korean primary hand expression indicated rather simple property, hence, did not equate exactly with Japanese experssion(e.g. koshi, shinayakasa, etc.) which contains several material properties. There were differences in stretch IE resilience, especially liveliness, between the judgement of non- ex- pert than to experts. Surface- related category was more important to non-experts than to experts. Slight differences were found between both groups in terms of preferred descriptors. Important descriptors as a rating scale were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• Elastomers and Composites
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• v.57 no.4
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• pp.157-164
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• 2022

Representative bulletproof materials, such as aramid or ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene(UHMWPE), have excellent strength and modulus in the plane direction but are very vulnerable to forces applied in the thickness direction. This paper reports a study on the effects of reinforcement in the thickness direction when bulletproof composite fabrics are prepared to improve their performance. Aramid and UHMWPE fabrics were combined using the film-bonding, needle-punching, or stitching methods and then subjected to low-velocity projectile and ball-drop impact tests. The results of the low-velocity projectile test indicated that the backface signature(BFS) decreased by up to 29.2% in fabrics obtained via the film-bonding method. However, the weight of the film-bonded fabric increased by approximately 23% compared with that obtained by simple lamination, and the fabric stiffened on account of the binder. Flexibility, light weight for wearability, and excellent bulletproof performance are very important factors in the development of bulletproof materials. When the needle-punching method was used, the BFS increased as the fibers sustained damage by the needle. When the composite fabrics were combined by stitching, no significant difference in weight and thickness was observed, and the BFS showed similar results. When a diagonal stitching pattern was employed, the BFS decreased as the stitching density increased. By contrast, when a diamond stitching pattern was used, the fabric fibers were damaged and the BFS increased as the stitching density increased.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.450-456
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• 2006

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters - loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ${\Delta}L\;and\;{\Delta}f$. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.75-88
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• 1995

The objectives of this study were to classify the contents of clothing shopping orientation, to group women into shopper types, and to examine the differences in clothing purchase criteria according to the shopper types. Samples were 335 women(20-49 years of age) in Seoul, Korea. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, X2 test, paired t-test, multiple regression analysis. The results of the study were the followings. 1. Five factors of clothing shopping orientation derived by factor analysis : F.1 'impulsive shopping' ; F.2 'rational shopping' ; F.3 'independent shopping' ; F.4 'economic shopping' ; F.5 'convenient shopping'. Three shopper types were classified by cluster analysis of the 5 factors : T.1 'convenient shopper' ; T.2 'impulsive shopper' ; T.3 'rational shopper'. 2. Significant differences were found among the 3 shopper types in all clothing purchase criteria. Rational shopper perceived all purchase criteria as more important than did the other 2 types. Impulsive shopper perceived 'fashion', 'attractiveness', 'style', and 'bland' as more important than did convenient shopper. 3. Married women and unemployed women were more distributed in rational shopper, while the unmarried and the employed more in impulsive shopper. Impulsive shopper used more credit care, purchased suits and blouses at department store and brand specialty store more than did rational shopper. Rational shopper purchased at discount store and wholesale store more than did impulsive shopper. 4. Women assessed 'color and fabric design' as most important in suit and blouse purchase criteria. 'Care' was perceived more important in blouses than in suits, and the other 9 purchase criteria(fashion, attractiveness, style, color and fabric design, fabric, durability, costruction, comfort, and brand) were perceived more important in suits than in blouses. 5. Rational and economic shopping orientation scores were higher in suit purchase than in blouse, while impulsive, independent, and convenient shopping orientation scores were higher in blouse purchase. 6. Post-purchase suit satisfaction was influenced by rational shopping orientation, educational level, style, income, and comfort. The explanatory power of the 5 variables was 17.2%. Post-purchase blouse satisfaction was influenced by style, care, rational shopping orientation, and independent shopping orientation. The explanatory power of the 4 variables was 10.2%.