• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.117-125
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• 2023

In the development of clothing design through virtual simulation, it is essential to minimize the differences between the virtual and the real world as much as possible. The most critical task to enhance the similarity between virtual and real garments is to find simulation parameters that can closely emulate the physical properties of the actual fabric in use. The simulation parameter optimization process requires manual tuning by experts, demanding high expertise and a significant amount of time. Especially, considerable time is consumed in repeatedly running simulations to check the results of applying the tuned simulation parameters. Recently, to tackle this issue, artificial neural network learning models have been proposed that swiftly estimate the results of drape test simulations, which are predominantly used for parameter tuning. In these earlier studies, relatively simple linear stiffness models were used, and instead of estimating the entirety of the drape mesh, they estimated only a portion of the mesh and interpolated the rest. However, there is still a scarcity of research on non-linear stiffness models, which are commonly used in actual garment design. In this paper, we propose a learning model for estimating the results of drape simulations for non-linear stiffness models. Our learning model estimates the full high-resolution mesh model of drape. To validate the performance of the proposed method, experiments were conducted using three different drape test methods, demonstrating high accuracy in estimation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.704-717
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• 2015

In modern fashion fabrics became an important element that leads the current of fashion beyond materials. Also, it has a creative role that reflects emotional and visual aspects, and it is considered as a mega trend that will lead the $21^{st}$ century fashion industry. The value of fashion products is affected not only by the style and design but also the sensuous properties like color, pattern, texture, and drape of fabrics. Therefore, in this study, characteristics of fabric trend between 2007 S/S and 2010 S/S will be analyzed focused on Premiere Vision, which influenced many Korean fashion trend information companies, while looking into the fabric trends shown in the world's top four collections-Paris, Milan, London, and New York-and Seoul collection, and comparing and analyzing the acceptance level of those. Fashion fabric is an important part in fashion design and change with social environment and value, its considered that the role and importance of subject matters increases in changing fashion design toward globalization by meeting various personality which is diversified more and more. It is to provide specific and practical data to be used for the Korean fashion industry, which can be used as useful information for future fabric researchers and people in the fashion industry for integrated study of fashion design and fashion fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.334-345
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• 2011

A study on compressive garments guarantee the required pressure and form depending on the type of disease and the state of injury can be used in the preventive treatment of cardiovascular disease. This research is to provide a preliminary data to develop medical clothing products, especially knitted compression garments. Starting from analyzing knitted structure of imported pressure goods to apply to test samples, 11 kinds of knitted stretchy fabrics were manufactured under the various knitting conditions, then their tensile, mechanical and hand properties were measured. In comparison size changes by knitting structure, tuck stitch applied structure showed an increase in course direction and decrease in wale direction. Float stitch applied structure indicated the contraction of size in width because of unformed loops and floated yarn on the technical back of fabric. As a result of tensile properties in tuck and float applied structure, tensile strength was increased in the course direction. On the other hand, the more loops overlapped due to the tuck and float stitch, the more decreased their elongation and elastic recovery were. In case of mechanical properties, as the tuck and float stitch were overlapped double or triple the bending and shearing properties were risen. Accordingly, the drape of fabric becomes stiff, and its surface becomes rough and uneven. The measurements of hand properties showed that the value of KOSHI, FUKURAMI NUMERI in tuck and float applied structure are higher than the plain structure. This results from the relationship between the mechanical and hand properties.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.141-155
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• 2004

Chitosan, the natural biodegradable polymer derived from chitin by de- acetylation, has been widely applied to the textile finishing processes for excellent anti-microbial characteristic and handle improvement of fabric. The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of handle when cotton fabric is treated with chitosan-polyurethane mixed solution. The viscosity values of chitosan solutions were 8cps and 50cps, and the wet-pick-up% was maintained at 90%. In case of mixing with water soluble polyurethane, the mixture ratio of chitosan and polyurethane was settled on the solid content ratio of 1:0, 1:0.5, 1:1, 1:2. Also the change of physical properties by neutralization in NaOH solution was studied. The results can be summarized up as follows : 1. Extensibility(EM) and tensile energy(WT) of cotton fabric treated with chitosan are decreased, but bending rigidity(B) is remarkably increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of EM and WT is weakened and the increase of B is weakened. The case of neutralization is similar to the case of polyurethane addition. 2. By treating fabric with chitosan, FUKURAMI(Fullness and softness) is decreased, but KOSHI(Stiffness), SHARI(Crispness), HARI(Anti-drape Stiff ness) are increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of FUKURAMI is diminished and the increase of KOSHI, SHARI, HARI are diminished. 3. As the viscosity of chitosan solution increased, the air permeability value increased. The addition of polyurethane decreased the air permeability.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.715-723
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• 2013

This develops a new and advanced S/S knitwear material made of linen/bamboo blended yarn. Linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were compared with linen/polyester knitted fabrics in terms of appearance as well as physical and comfort properties. Rib knitted fabrics were remarkably thicker than plain knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics based on polyester yarns were heavier than those based on bamboo yarn. The porosity decreased in the following order: linen 100% > bamboo 100% > polyester 100%. The drape properties of bamboo 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The pilling resistances of linen 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The highest and lowest air permeability was observed in the case of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics and polyester 100% knitted fabrics, respectively. The instant cool-feeling was enhanced as the bamboo yarns were blended. The thermal conductivity of linen 100% knitted fabrics was the highest and the thermal conductivity of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics was higher than linen/polyester knitted fabrics. Bamboo 100% knitted fabrics showed a higher moisture regain than polyester 100% knitted fabrics. The results confirmed the superior appearance and comfort of a novel S/S knit wear material made of linen/bamboo knitted fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1079-1089
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• 1998

Various fabrics, including natural fibers, regenerated cellulosic fibers, synthetic fibers, blend yarn, and mixture fabrics, were treated with the solutions of high purity chitosan in 1% acetic acid, having high viscosity of 930cps or low viscosity of 8cps. Physical/ mechanical properties of the treated fabrics samples were measured using Kawabata Evaluation System and drape tester. From these, hand values and total hand values of the fabric samples were calculated using Kawabata-Niwa translation equations. KOSHI, SHARI, HARI values have increased for the treated samples, while FUKURAMI values have decreased in general.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.109-117
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• 2016

Synthetic fabrics, such as nylon and polyester, were dyed with persimmon juice by using a padding mangle repeatedly. The mechanical properties of these synthetic fabrics were analyzed using the Kawabata evaluation system. The following findings were obtained from this investigation. As the number of repetitions of padding dyeing increased, the tensile energy per unit area and the tensile resilience of synthetic fabric remained almost unchanged, whereas the linearity of the load-extension curve of the synthetic fabrics increased. As the number of padding repetitions increased, the synthetic fabrics dyed with persimmon juice exhibited increases in thickness and weight. As the number of repetitions of padding treatment with persimmon juice increased, the values of stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, fullness, and softness also increased, whereas the flexibility with soft feeling, crispness, and scrooping sensation significantly decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabrics increased after three repetitions of padding treatment with persimmon juice. Nylon and polyester fabrics were dyed evenly with persimmon juice treated using a padding mangle.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.72-78
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• 1986

The studies were performed to investigate the optimum conditions for tannic processing of silk by use Chinese Gallotannin and synthesized tannic acid, which are aimed at weighting, dyeing and physical properties of tannin treated silk. 1. It was reasonable that the concentration of tannin solution is 30 grams per liter of Chinese Gallotannin, 15 grams per liter of tannic acid for the efficient weighting of processed silk. The temperature and time for tannin treatment was optimum at 80$^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and the acidity of tannin solution at pH 2 to 3. 2. In dyeing the tannintreated silk by Acid dye Orange II, the temperature and time was reasonable at 60$^{\circ}C$, 90 minutes to control the desorption of tannin components weighted onto silk. 3. The colour differences ($\Delta$E) of dyed silk fabric by soaping could be remarkably narrowed by tannin treatment, resulting in improving the washing fastness of tannin treated silk by two grades more than that of untreated one. 4. The light fastness of tannin treated silk could be drastically improved by reducing the dye-loss of dyed silk fabric which was coused from the Ultra-violet ray irrdiation. 5. The rubbing fastness and water repellency of tannin treated silk was at the same level with that of untreated one. However, the Drape coefficient of tannin treated silk was decreased more than that of untreated one, which is closely related with fabric softness and dressing appearence.