• 한국컴퓨터그래픽스학회논문지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.117-125
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• 2023

가상 시뮬레이션을 이용한 의류 디자인 개발에서는 가상과 실제의 차이가 최소화되어야 한다. 가상 의상과 실제 의상의 유사성을 높이는 데에 가장 기본이 되는 작업은 의상 제작에 사용될 옷감의 물성을 최대한 유사하게 표현할 수 있는 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 찾는 것이다. 시뮬레이션 파라미터 최적화 절차에는 전문가의 수작업으로 이루어지는 튜닝 과정이 포함되는데, 이 작업은 높은 전문성과 많은 시간이 요구된다. 특히 조정된 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 적용한 결과를 다시 확인하기 위해 시뮬레이션을 반복적으로 실행할 때 많은 시간이 소요된다. 최근 이 문제를 해결하기 위해 파라미터 튜닝에 주로 사용되는 드레이프 테스트 시뮬레이션 결과를 빠르게 추정하는 인공신경망 학습 모델이 제안되었다. 하지만 기존 연구에서는 비교적 간단한 선형 강성 모델을 사용하였으며 드레이프 시뮬레이션 전체를 추정하는 대신 일부만 추정하고 나머지는 보간하는 방식을 사용하였다. 실제 의류 디자인 개발 과정에서는 주로 비선형 강성 모델이 적용된 시뮬레이터가 사용되지만, 이에 대한 연구는 아직 부족하다. 본 논문에서는 비선형 강성 모델을 대상으로 드레이프 시뮬레이션 결과를 추정하기 위한 새로운 학습 모델을 제안한다. 본 연구에서 제안된 학습 모델은 시뮬레이션 결과인 고해상도 메시 모델 전체를 추정한다. 제시하는 방법의 성능을 검증하기 위해 세 가지 드레이프 테스트 방식을 대상으로 실험을 진행하여 추정 정확도를 평가한다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.704-717
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• 2015

In modern fashion fabrics became an important element that leads the current of fashion beyond materials. Also, it has a creative role that reflects emotional and visual aspects, and it is considered as a mega trend that will lead the $21^{st}$ century fashion industry. The value of fashion products is affected not only by the style and design but also the sensuous properties like color, pattern, texture, and drape of fabrics. Therefore, in this study, characteristics of fabric trend between 2007 S/S and 2010 S/S will be analyzed focused on Premiere Vision, which influenced many Korean fashion trend information companies, while looking into the fabric trends shown in the world's top four collections-Paris, Milan, London, and New York-and Seoul collection, and comparing and analyzing the acceptance level of those. Fashion fabric is an important part in fashion design and change with social environment and value, its considered that the role and importance of subject matters increases in changing fashion design toward globalization by meeting various personality which is diversified more and more. It is to provide specific and practical data to be used for the Korean fashion industry, which can be used as useful information for future fabric researchers and people in the fashion industry for integrated study of fashion design and fashion fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.334-345
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• 2011

A study on compressive garments guarantee the required pressure and form depending on the type of disease and the state of injury can be used in the preventive treatment of cardiovascular disease. This research is to provide a preliminary data to develop medical clothing products, especially knitted compression garments. Starting from analyzing knitted structure of imported pressure goods to apply to test samples, 11 kinds of knitted stretchy fabrics were manufactured under the various knitting conditions, then their tensile, mechanical and hand properties were measured. In comparison size changes by knitting structure, tuck stitch applied structure showed an increase in course direction and decrease in wale direction. Float stitch applied structure indicated the contraction of size in width because of unformed loops and floated yarn on the technical back of fabric. As a result of tensile properties in tuck and float applied structure, tensile strength was increased in the course direction. On the other hand, the more loops overlapped due to the tuck and float stitch, the more decreased their elongation and elastic recovery were. In case of mechanical properties, as the tuck and float stitch were overlapped double or triple the bending and shearing properties were risen. Accordingly, the drape of fabric becomes stiff, and its surface becomes rough and uneven. The measurements of hand properties showed that the value of KOSHI, FUKURAMI NUMERI in tuck and float applied structure are higher than the plain structure. This results from the relationship between the mechanical and hand properties.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.141-155
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• 2004

Chitosan, the natural biodegradable polymer derived from chitin by de- acetylation, has been widely applied to the textile finishing processes for excellent anti-microbial characteristic and handle improvement of fabric. The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of handle when cotton fabric is treated with chitosan-polyurethane mixed solution. The viscosity values of chitosan solutions were 8cps and 50cps, and the wet-pick-up% was maintained at 90%. In case of mixing with water soluble polyurethane, the mixture ratio of chitosan and polyurethane was settled on the solid content ratio of 1:0, 1:0.5, 1:1, 1:2. Also the change of physical properties by neutralization in NaOH solution was studied. The results can be summarized up as follows : 1. Extensibility(EM) and tensile energy(WT) of cotton fabric treated with chitosan are decreased, but bending rigidity(B) is remarkably increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of EM and WT is weakened and the increase of B is weakened. The case of neutralization is similar to the case of polyurethane addition. 2. By treating fabric with chitosan, FUKURAMI(Fullness and softness) is decreased, but KOSHI(Stiffness), SHARI(Crispness), HARI(Anti-drape Stiff ness) are increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of FUKURAMI is diminished and the increase of KOSHI, SHARI, HARI are diminished. 3. As the viscosity of chitosan solution increased, the air permeability value increased. The addition of polyurethane decreased the air permeability.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.715-723
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• 2013

This develops a new and advanced S/S knitwear material made of linen/bamboo blended yarn. Linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were compared with linen/polyester knitted fabrics in terms of appearance as well as physical and comfort properties. Rib knitted fabrics were remarkably thicker than plain knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics based on polyester yarns were heavier than those based on bamboo yarn. The porosity decreased in the following order: linen 100% > bamboo 100% > polyester 100%. The drape properties of bamboo 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The pilling resistances of linen 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The highest and lowest air permeability was observed in the case of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics and polyester 100% knitted fabrics, respectively. The instant cool-feeling was enhanced as the bamboo yarns were blended. The thermal conductivity of linen 100% knitted fabrics was the highest and the thermal conductivity of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics was higher than linen/polyester knitted fabrics. Bamboo 100% knitted fabrics showed a higher moisture regain than polyester 100% knitted fabrics. The results confirmed the superior appearance and comfort of a novel S/S knit wear material made of linen/bamboo knitted fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1079-1089
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• 1998

Various fabrics, including natural fibers, regenerated cellulosic fibers, synthetic fibers, blend yarn, and mixture fabrics, were treated with the solutions of high purity chitosan in 1% acetic acid, having high viscosity of 930cps or low viscosity of 8cps. Physical/ mechanical properties of the treated fabrics samples were measured using Kawabata Evaluation System and drape tester. From these, hand values and total hand values of the fabric samples were calculated using Kawabata-Niwa translation equations. KOSHI, SHARI, HARI values have increased for the treated samples, while FUKURAMI values have decreased in general.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.109-117
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• 2016

Synthetic fabrics, such as nylon and polyester, were dyed with persimmon juice by using a padding mangle repeatedly. The mechanical properties of these synthetic fabrics were analyzed using the Kawabata evaluation system. The following findings were obtained from this investigation. As the number of repetitions of padding dyeing increased, the tensile energy per unit area and the tensile resilience of synthetic fabric remained almost unchanged, whereas the linearity of the load-extension curve of the synthetic fabrics increased. As the number of padding repetitions increased, the synthetic fabrics dyed with persimmon juice exhibited increases in thickness and weight. As the number of repetitions of padding treatment with persimmon juice increased, the values of stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, fullness, and softness also increased, whereas the flexibility with soft feeling, crispness, and scrooping sensation significantly decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabrics increased after three repetitions of padding treatment with persimmon juice. Nylon and polyester fabrics were dyed evenly with persimmon juice treated using a padding mangle.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.72-78
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• 1986

견에 대한 오배자탄닌과 합성탄닌의 처리조임이 견의 탄닌증량율에 미치는 영향과 탄닌증량견의 염색조건 및 실용적 특성을 구명하기 위하여 시험결과 1. 견의 증량율을 기안한 합리적인 탄닌처리 농도는 오배자 30g/l, 합성탄닌산 15g/l이었고, 처리온도 및 시간은 8$0^{\circ}C$에서 60분 내외 처리용액의 산도는 pH 2-3이었다. 2. 탄닌처리 견의 염색조건에 있어서 부착된 탄닌의 탈락을 적게하며 염착농도(K/S)를 향상시킬 수 있는 OrangeII에 의한 합리적 염색온도 및 시간은 6$0^{\circ}C$, 90분이었다. 3. 탄닌염색 가공견포의 Soaping에 의한 색착($\Delta$E)는 미가공 견포에 비하여 현저히 감소됨으로서 세탁견도가 2급이나 향상되었다. 4. 탄닌 염색가공 견포의 자외선 조사에 의한 dyeloss율은 무처리염색견포의 1/6정도로 감소됨으로서 탄니처리 견포의 내광성이 현저히 개선되었다. 5. 탄닌 염색가공 견포의 마찰견도와 발수성은 미가공 견포와 같은 수준이었으나 Drape계수는 감소됨으로서 의복의 착용감이 향상되었다.