• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1179-1193
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• 2010

For a good design, it is important to understand consumers and trend of textile and fashion design. Previous researches on textile pattern design with CAD have been done. They have studied on Korean traditional floral motives/hand painting or some geometric patterns. Few studies have been done on conversational design. Therefore the purpose of study was to observe types of textile pattern design for the recent fiver years and determine fabric pattern trends, especially on the conversational motifs. The types of patterns were analysed with professional panels from the 2005～2009 collection sources, using SPSS program. This study was also develop textile patterns creating using CAD. We conducted design process on motif creating, repeat, and mapping jobs, using textile special design program Prima vision and Photoshop CS3.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.525-540
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• 2003

This survey paper aims to compare two significant figures in the history of Haute Couture e.g, Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, who played a leading role between 1910 and 1930. It is found here that they have common features with respect to giving freedom to body through costume, enlarging Garconne Mode, creating more value of Costume Jewelry, exploiting advertisement strategy using models, proving exotic styles, and last but not the least contributing to Haute Couture. The research shows, however, that Poiret differs from Chanel in that he made most of various natural colors whereas Chanel used black or beige colors that had been rarely used woman wear previously. They also differed in using fabric, permitting copy by others, ingredients and bottling of perfume, meaning of silhouette. This kind of comparative research is expected to provide more understanding of fashion history and to contribute to more rigorous analysis of key success factors of designers in his or her age of fashion.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Design Studies Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.70-71
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• 2001

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2019

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.230-250
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• 2013

possessed by Dong-A University Museum is designated as Treasure No. 595, and has been known for a more exquisite, delicate and realistic expression and a colorful three-dimensional structure compared to the 'grass and insect painting' work and its value in art history. However, it has not been analyzed and studied in fabric craft despite it being an embroidered work. This study used scientific devices to examine and analyze the Screen's fabric, thread colors, and embroidery techniques to clarify its patterns and fabric craft characteristics for its value in the history of fabric craft. As a result, consists of eight sides and its subject matters and composition are similar to those of the general paintings of grass and insects. The patterns on each side of the 'grass and insect painting' include cucumber, cockscomb, day lily, balsam pear, gillyflower, watermelon, eggplant, and chrysanthemums from the first side. Among these flowers, the balsam pear is a special material not found in the existing paintings of grass and insect. The eighth side only has the chrysanthemums with no insects and reptiles, making it different from the typical forms of the paintings of grass and insect. The fabric of the Screen uses black that is not seen in other decorative embroideries to emphasize and maximize various colors of threads. The fabric used the weave structure of 5-end satin called Gong Dan [non-patterned satin]. The threads used extremely slightly twisted threads that are incidentally twisted. Some threads use one color, while other threads use two or mixed colors in combination for three-dimensional expressions. Because the threads are severely deterioration and faded, it is impossible to know the original colors, but the most frequently used colors are yellow to green and other colors remaining relatively prominently are blue, grown, and violet. The colors of day lily, gillyflower, and strawberries are currently remaining as reddish yellow, but it is anticipated that they were originally orange and red considering the existing paintings of grass and insects. The embroidery technique was mostly surface satin stitch to fill the surfaces. This shows the traditional women's wisdom to reduce the waste of color threads. Satin stitch is a relatively simple embroidery technique for decorating a surface, but it uses various color threads and divides the surfaces for combined vertical, horizontal, and diagonal stitches or for the combination of long and short stitches for various textures and the sense of volume. The bodies of insects use the combination of buttonhole stitch, outline stitch, and satin stitch for three-dimensional expressions, but the use of buttonhole stitch is particularly noticeable. In addition to that, decorative stitches were used to give volume to the leaves and surface pine needle stitches were done on the scouring rush to add more realistic texture. Decorative stitches were added on top of gillyflower, strawberries, and cucumbers for a more delicate touch. is valuable in the history of paintings and art and bears great importance in the history of Korean embroidery as it uses outstanding technique and colors of Korea to express the Shin Sa-im-dang's 'Grass and Insect Painting'.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.23-36
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to identify the status of fashion related subjects in colleges and to utilize it as a basic material to develop a better curriculum. To do this, 43 2-year colleges or 63 majors in Korea were analyzed. From the analysis of the locations of the colleges with fashion related majors, it was found that 51.2% schools with fashion related majors were located in the Capital area. When looking at the division to which fashion related departments belong, it was found that 35.5% belonged to design related division, and 22.6% belonged to Art and Physical Education Division. When analyzing the subjects of the colleges with Fashion Design Department (Major), the subject which took the biggest ratio was Clothing Construction and Pattern Drafting as 32.8% and the next was Design Area as 31.5%. In case of Fashion Stylist Department (Major), the subject area with the biggest share was Design Field (49.5%). If looking into segmented classification, design related subjects were 20.9%, and styling related subjects were 17.9%. In Fabric and Fashion related department, the subject with the biggest ratio was Dying and Textile Design as 40.4%, and Fabric related subjects were the next as 22.3%. In the Broadcasting Stylist related departments, the subjects of with the biggest ratio was Fashion Design related subjects as 37% and the next was Beauty related ones as 30.2%. According to the study result, it could be concluded that Fashion related departments in the colleges located in the Capital area focused on the subjects to nurture a fashion designer and their curricula are not specialized or differentiated but somewhat similar one another.

• Archives of design research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.27-36
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• 2001

This study examines consumer\` and manufacturers\` perceptions and preference on the bamboo industry and bamboo craft products made in Korea. Also, this study investigates the possibilities of modem bamboo blind production by applying various new materials, techniques, and design patterns. The results of the survey to consumers and bamboo product manufacturers were that ordinary Korean consumers evaluated negatively the quality of bamboo products, particularly the design of them and the manufactures themselves evaluated negatively the design of their products and eagerly desired to team new design techniques for their product improvements. The result of experimental study was that the combinations of fabric materials, natural dyeing, and design techniques in the development of bamboo blinds yielded modernized bamboo blind image that could be appealed by consumers. This study could be judged as a good example for the modem recreation of traditional art. This study proposes the product devolvement and commercialization of traditional culture through the collaborations between bamboo craft industry and Universities.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.169-179
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• 2009

In order to preserve the Korean traditional gold foil, to develop as Korean traditional textile art by utilizing in modem fashion for textile industry, and to examine utility of the material which can be used in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion terms, Textiles Applied Korean Traditional Gold Foil were developed. The results are as follows: First, important factors of the gold foil image should be extracted as materials quality, color and pattern, and modem and practical qualities should be proceeded when developing the image of the gold foil into modem quality material. Second, since gloss of fabric developed by a traditional method is somewhat strong, uniformity being a little bit low for hand-made manufacturing, and practical quality is low for high cost, deletion of the gold foil, etc. So it hasn't been appropriate for studying modem fashion material. Third, Jacquard weave has been examined as the most appropriate method in order to present the gold foil image among a number of textile manufacturing techniques Fourth, considering factors deciding the image of the gold foil and a sense of beauty of modem society, gloss of the foil has been lessened by expressing pattern to lower traditional quality and primary color. Fifth, pattern motives of developed materials have been extracted tram traditional gold foil patterns, and materials have been chosen considering of concepts and motives, and dragon pattern, crane pattern and bat pattern, Sixth, wearing, pin-up works, bed linen, fabrics for chairs, ties, bags, shoes, umbrellas, etc. are produced with the developed materials, and practical use and modern quality have been examined. The result is very satisfactory.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.1-18
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.270-282
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.