• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.676-690
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• 2013

This study explored the historical meaning and the present practices of Indonesian batik. Relevant literature was reviewed first; subsequently, interviews and observations were conducted to achieve the purpose of the study. Historically, batik was an integral part of the Javanese court art as well as a representation of each regional culture. Batik also became an important means to reveal a national identity in postcolonial Indonesia in the 1950s. There exist two types of traditional and modern type batik in present Indonesia. The traditional batik refers to batik tulis, batik cap, and the combination of tulis and cap. The modern batik is comprised of a batik print as well as the combination of the print and the traditional batik. The traditional batik was practiced at the small-sized village batik workshops and in the government batik research center. A few batik workshops often co-operate with modern screen print factories; however, the use natural dyes for the dyeing of batik cloth is rarely found. Batik was used for varied objects made from fabric materials that include clothing, small fashion items, living supplies and furniture, as well as fine art such as paintings and wooden crafts.

• Advances in nano research
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.165-173
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• 2024

The production of multipurpose cotton fabrics aimed at elevating the quality of aerobic and dance sportswear is explored in this study. Powder metallurgy, known for its high efficiency in manufacturing technological components with minimal waste, is employed as a method for fabricating brush ferrules for painting. The utilization of iron-copper material, prepared through powder metallurgy, enhances the strength and quality of the brush ferrules. A microscopic analysis reveals a robust interconnection between the particles of each layer achieved through isostatic pressure, resulting in a favorable microstructure. The relative density and strength of parts produced from copper-iron powder exhibit an increase with higher pressure levels. The application of this material in brush ferrules ensures their durability and longevity, thereby supporting the creation of artwork. The evolution of art over time reflects changing ideas and possibilities, and technological advancements have significantly improved artistic tools. The role of tools in artistic expression is paramount, and the integration of powder metallurgy materials in brush ferrules fortifies their artistic importance. In summary, this study underscores the advantages of powder metallurgy in augmenting the quality of art tools and facilitating artistic creation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1994

In the 20th century, The artistic world was constantly producing new ideas and movements and the world of fashion responded to and reflected them all in greater of lesser degree. Dress designers have always been aware of what is happening In the arts and have always been able to use the discoveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and create fashion which are new, inventive and reflective of thier time. Up to the present, other researchers have investigated the connections between the fine arts and the Modern Fashion. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the characteristics of painting of the Impressionism on the Modern Fashion. In order to investigate the relationship between the trend of painting and Modern Fashion. Especially, Impressionism's light and color affected both 20th's painting and other sorts of art. That is, the trend of the modern painting, Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract art, Abstract Expressionism, was influenced by Impressionism painting. Similarly, in the sihouette, line, color, fabric pattern of the Modem Fashion was represented characteristics of the Impressionism Painting. The fashion's Fauve, Paul Poiret was excited by the power of color in the same intense way as the 'wild beasts' of art. The color of his clothes during that period was bold and brilliant. Gabrielle Chanel simplified the shape of women's clothes to a square cardigan and rectangular skirt. This was a cubist concept. Art and fashion probably held hands closest in the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli was creating clothes directly influenced by the Surrealist thinking of Salvador Dali. And she burst upon the fashion world with a sweater that had a trompe I'oeil bow. Soma Delaunay was one of great pioneers of Abstract in. She proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and created the geometric and abstract patterns of the clothes and fabrics with her strong color. The influence of Abstract Expressionism was expressed the fabrics of the Modern Fashion. Some fabrics used in Modern Fashion are printed in a dripping pouring and splashing style. For the future, some futher research to investigate the art-fashion connection might involve establishing systematic classifications for silhouette, line, texture, color of the fashion. Moreover, in order to study the influence of fine art on the fashion, a broader approach might wish to analyze the relationship between painting and other plastic arts.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.69-80
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• 2000

Body has been high-lightened as one of the most important theme since the philosophy and the arts are focused on it in the late 20 century. Resurgence of interests in human body has been based on the skepticism on rapid digitalization and do-materialization currently undergoing in electronic media environments. Artists have been endeavoring more and more to find a synthesis which links the conceptual and the sensuous in their works as digitalization gets faster and faster. The Bodily-oriented art uses its visceral qualities, either literally or metaphorically, to engage our total being, not just our mental consciousness, in building a sensuous, evocative statement. Its transcendent ideas are inter- mixed with the fabric of the world. We are touched by this art not only because we understand it cognitively, but because we "feel"it. These characteristics of textile arts caused gradual increase of soft-sculpture works using textiles and implies possibilities of inter-grade of physical and mental world. Ann Hamilton, Magdalena Abakanowiz, Folly Apfelbaum and Pallid Dougherty are, for example, related to the fiber arts. It would be of worth to study the characteristics of contemporary faber-art works, especially done by Abakanowiz who has been regarded as a dominant pioneer in the contemporary fiber arts from the viewpoint of inter-grade of the physicals and the mental. This paper, therefore, deals with the Abaknowiz′works in the context of human body and body-signs. Life and works might be classified into 5 stages; first, learning period since her birth in 1930, second, creation period of Abakan, third, remodelling period of Abakan, fourth, composition and dissolution period of Abakan and the last and fifth, new transformation period of Abakan. ′Abakan′through her whole life as an artist has been a plastic language and based ultimately on external human body but in various materials and forms.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

"Aloha" is the Hawaiian word that extends the warmth friendliness, and pride of the Hawaiian people to their island's visitors. The aloha shirt truly symbolizes aloha sprit to islanders and visitors alike. The earliest foreign settlers in the Hawaiian Islands were the Chinese and Japanese. They brought with them their myriad talents and trades, among them the art of tailoring. In July of 1936, a shirtmaker named Ellery J.Chun coined the term "Aloha Shirt" an apt characterization for such an eloquent garment. He was the first to make the shirt on a commercial basis. The shirt sold for as little as a dollar in Chun's own King-Smith store. The genuine aloha shirt is now regaled as a work of art and avidly sought out by collectors. When tourism came to Hawaii in the late 1930s, these unusal shirts were among the first thing that visitors had to have. Local designers and tailors worked quickly to meet the demand and began to expand the range of decoration to include palm trees and romantic beaches, tropical jungles and volcanoes, exotic flowers and scenes from polynesian legend. Therefore the aloha shirt had been born. The functional use of creative colors and amazing artistic renderings in these shirts certainly capture the simplicity and sprit of Hawaii. Aloha shirt is dress that display mystery and charm of Hawaii and cultural symbol of condensed Hawaiian mind. Furthermore, the innocence with which Hawaiians formerly translated their life and heritage onto fabric ranks these shirts with the finest of American folk art. Aloha shirt is made from cotton, silk, rayon in present and past. Most important design element of Aloha shirt is print pattern. Main print pattern of Aloha shirt are all over pattern, horizontal pattern, border pattern, Japanese pattern, picture pattern and back panel pattern. In this study I investigate the design characteristics and development process of aloha shirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.1-10
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• 2010

The cultures and traditions of Asia has the roots so deep and it is the origin of inspiration. Therefore, it is easy to find a different inspiration when designing, expecially for Western designers who are seeking European tradition and its comparison. The most distinctive feature of the Asian look is non-structural and has no clear form close to the structure of the body or mathematical ratio, but is steric with 2-Dimensional planed textiles, and has a flexible, non-structural formative characteristic related to the movable body. This is base on the vision of the universe that regards the parts as the whole. From this research, generally studying about the Asian look and its non-structural formative characteristics. The study looked closely into the aesthetic value of non-structural formative characteristics formation, with basis on the large dress regulation system of the western reasoning and rationalism and mechanism. At first, my study pointed on the dressing functionalism or Neo-classism considering emotions, Anti-Western aspect observing surrealism dressing and expressionism dressing. Second, with men and women showing similar outer shape without the equivalent element such from wearing a corset, the sexism is abolished. Finally, the designers’ inner intention of art is being delivered, from the aspect that the expression of art, size and no waste of fabric shows effort of communicating with the world, giving value to the possibility of continuance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.209-221
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• 1992

A standpoint art's style, present-day Western dress was establishing a systematic, theoritical value in sphere of fine art's meaning & it's expression on the modern fashion. For this reason, I selected Impressionism (a broad senes: be included Impressionism, Neo-Impressionism, Post-Impressionism) that was designated 'the revolution of color'. In the previous paper, 1 already discussed about the modern fashion under the influence of the color of Impressionism, from this study, Neo-Impressionism's techniques & it's influence on the modern fashion was investigated. The Impressionists had purposely used uneven brushwork & a vivid palette to transmit the intensity & immediacy of nature, whereas the Neo-Impressionists utilized methodically applied dots, a technique commonly described as Pointillism, to achieve their rationalist goal of eliminating the fugitive & the casual in order to seize a more fundamental reality. Of all them, Seurat had already become interested in the posible analogies between science, music & psychology on the on hand & art on the other, and scientist's books & articles offered a wealth of theoretical support. 1'articulary, it was corroborated that effects of sadness, calm, or happiness could be achieved through manipulation of color & design. The conclusions are as follow: 1. Through the modern fashion, a space between pattern & pattern was reflected unstable balances & harmonies, that, Neo-Impressionist emphasized the distinction between outdoor & subject, between elaborately clothed & nude figures, corresponded to modern fashion's pattern. 2. The modern fashion was presented a small border or band within the pattern itself which colors complemented those of the adjacent pictorial surface and mediated between the painted image & its enclosure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to express the image of chameleons-that change their colors by light, temperature and its mood-into the sexy styles of corresponding coquettish temperamental people in Wearable Art. The method used in this study was experimenting various production mediums, including creating the textured stretch fabric, in the process of expressing the conceptual characteristics of the chameleon in Wearable Art. The concept of the work was a concoction of 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating', etc. that highlighted the real disposition of the chameleon. The futuristic preference of the researcher was also implicated. "Comfortable" and "enjoyable" concepts via motions were improved with the its completeness. The point of the design and production is to express symbolically the chameleon in real life, analyzing its sleek body lines, conditional colors changing, outer skins and the cubic textures. The coquettish temperamental image, the conceptual image of the chameleon, was also expressed by implication into the whole work. The entire line of this work is body-conscious silhouette. It was symbolically selected to image the outline of the chameleon that has the slim and sleek body. The exposed back is intended to express symbolically the projected back bones of the chameleon. The hood of gentle triangle line expresses the smooth-lined head part. The irregular hemlines represent the elongated chameleon's tale. The chameleon with its colors of vivid tones is characterized the colors changing by its conditions. This point was importantly treated in the working process by trying the effects that the colors are seen slightly different according to the light and angles. The material was given the effect that its surface colors are seen different in lights and angles because of the wrinkles protruded lumpy-bumpy. The various stones of red and blue tones are very similar to the skin tones of the real chameleon, and their gradation makes the effect that the colors are visibly changed with each move. The textures of the chameleon were produced via the wrinkle effect of smoke-shape, which is the result of using the elastic threads on the basic mediums stitched with 50/50 chiffon and polyester along with velvet dot patterns. The stretching fabric by the impact of the elastic threads is as much suitable for making the body-conscious line. The stones are composed of acrylic cabochon and gemstone. They are symbolically expressed the lumpy and bumpy back skin of the chameleon and produced the effect of the colors visibly different. The primary technique used in this dress is the draping utilizing the biased grains. The front body piece is connected to the hood and joined to the back piece without any seam. For the irregular hemline flares, leaving the several rectangular pieces with bias grains, they were connected by interlocking. What defines the clothes is the person in action. Therefore, what decides the completeness of clothes might be its comfortable and enjoyable feeling by living and acting people. The chameleon dress could also reach its goal of comforting and pleasing Wearable Art in the process of studying the techniques and effects that visibly differentiate the colors. It is considered as a main point of the Wearable Art, which is a comfortable enjoyable clothing tempered with the artistic beauty.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.2
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• pp.27-48
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• 2004

Robert Rauschenberg's artistic career has often been regarded as having reached its culmination when the artist won the first prize at the 1964 Venice Biennale. With this victory, Rauschenberg triumphantly entered the pantheon of all-American artists and firmly secured his position in the history of American art. On the other hand, despite the artist's ongoing new experiments in his art, the seemingly precocious ripeness in his career has led the critical discourses on Rauschenberg's art to the artist's early works, most of which were done in the mid-1950s and the 1960s. The crux of Rauschenberg criticism lies not only in focusing on the artist's 50's and 60's works, but also in its large dismissal of the significance of the imagery that the artist employed in his works. As art historians Roger Cranshaw and Adrian Lewis point out, the critical discourse of Rauschenberg either focuses on the formalist concerns on the picture plane, or relies on the "culturalist" interpretation of Rauschenberg's imagery which emphasizes the artist's "Americanness." Recently, a group of art historians centered around October has applied Charles Sanders Peirce's semiotics as art historical methodology and illuminated the indexical aspects of Rauschenberg's work. The semantic inquiry into Rauschenberg's imagery has also been launched by some art historians who seek the clues in the artist's personal context. The first half of this essay will examine the previous criticism on Rauschenberg's art and the other half will discuss the artist's 1955 work Rebus, which I think intersects various critical concerns of Rauschenberg's work, and yet defies the closure of discourses in one direction. The categories of signs in the semiotics of Charles Sanders Peirce and the discourse of Jean-Francois Lyotard will be used in discussing the meanings of Rebus, not to search for the semantic readings of the work, hut to make an analogy in terms of the paradoxical structures of both the work and the theory. The definitions of rebus is as follows: Rebus 1. a representation or words or syllables by pictures of object or by symbols whose names resemble the intended words or syllables in sound; also: a riddle made up wholly or in part of such pictures or symbols. 2. a badge that suggests the name of the person to whom it belongs. Webster's Third New International Dictionary of the English Language Unabridged. Since its creation in 1955, Robert Rauschenberg's Rebus has been one of the most intriguing works in the artist's oeuvre. This monumental 'combine' painting($6feet{\times}10feet$ 10.5 inches) consists of three panels covered with fabric, paper, newspaper, and printed reproductions. On top of these, oil paints, pencil and crayon drawings connect each section into a whole. The layout of the images is overall horizontal. Starting from a torn election poster, which is partially read as "THAT REPRE," on the far left side of the painting. Rebus leads us to proceed from the left to the right, the typical direction of reading in a Western context. Along with its seemingly proper title. Rebus, the painting has triggered many art historians to seek some semantic readings of it. These art historians painstakingly reconstruct the iconography based on the artist's interviews, (auto)biography, and artistic context of his works. The interpretation of Rebus varies from a 'image-by-image' collation with a word to a more general commentary on Rauschenberg's work overall, such as a work that "bridges between art and life." Despite the title's allusion to the legitimate purpose of the painting as a decoding of the imagery into sound, Rebus, I argue, actually hinders a reading of it. By reading through Peirce to Rauschenberg, I will delve into the subtle anxiety between words and images in their works. And on this basis, I suggest Rauschenberg's strategy in playing Rebus is to hide the meaning of the imagery rather than to disclose it.