• 복식
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• 제52권3호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between costumes of court masque and the fashion trend at that time, by the analysis of the portraits. The period in this thesis is from Elizabeth I (1588-1603), until James I (1603-1625), when Inigo Jones was actively involved in court in masque, and when the traits of court masque began to appear in costume. The research material of this thesis is from the papers, costume design sketches, portraits and miniatures. As a result the costume of court masque which is the mixture of that of ancient Greece, Rome, middle age, and the exotic style of Ireland and Persian, had a great impact on the general fashion, and the unique pattern f costume became prevalent in the end of 16th and the early 17th century. This thesis might help us understand and special costume of that age and study the way how it come to have an influence on the fashion of the costume pertaining mainly to the privileged class.

• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.141-157
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to clarify the style of romanticism in fashion. Romanticism is advocating the conception called the respect of diversity and individuality in the modern society dominated by postmodernism trying to accept the various values.. In this study, the characteristics of romanticism are examined through the bibliographies on philosophy, aesthetics, architecture and art. In fashion. 19C is based on the costume history books and pictures. The characteristics of romanticism in literature and art which are applied to fashion are sensuality, ornament, exoticism and complexity. On the basis of these characteristics, the 19C fashion of romanticism are analyzed as follows. ㆍ Sensuality to emphasize sexual region of woman's body and to make ‘X’ silhouette is through exaggeration and exposure. This is the characteristic to relieve femininity. ㆍ Ornamentation is expressed in the gorgeous color and the varied material. details and trimming to add the fantastic mood, and the accessory to express the aristocratic elegance. This is a very important characteristic that produces the fantastic and romantic mood. ㆍExoticism to express aspiration for East is expressed either in items or accessories imported from the East. or in exotic material and pattern. This is the characteristic of fashion to express the desire to escape from the reality in the mysterious mood. ㆍMingler is expressed, contrasting or harmonizing the various patterns, color, material in a fashion by the textile with the rich color and print of the various feeling and many trimming. This is the external characteristic of the romanticism fashion combined the experimental mind of the technical progress with the romantic trend in those days. These characteristics of romanticism fashion in the 19th century presented with the various phenomena by working complexly rather than independently.

• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.13-31
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• 2006

This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권10호
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• pp.173-188
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• 2004

Concerning the actual characteristics of Italian men's fashion design, the following conclusions can be obtained from an analysis of the works of Gianni Versace. First, regarding the use of patterns, existing patterns are enlarged, reduced, and transformed. Second, chosen patterns are closely examined and analysed before actual use. Third, the transfusion of unexpected patterns can be seen as the shapes of various combinations. Fourth, inspired patterns from art works or based on some exotic mood are also devised and used. Last, the selected patterns are used in an items of outerwear and innerwear. Furthermore, once a pattern is chosen, it is coordinated at the same time with a complete outfit of shirts, pants, suits, etc.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.525-540
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• 2003

This survey paper aims to compare two significant figures in the history of Haute Couture e.g, Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, who played a leading role between 1910 and 1930. It is found here that they have common features with respect to giving freedom to body through costume, enlarging Garconne Mode, creating more value of Costume Jewelry, exploiting advertisement strategy using models, proving exotic styles, and last but not the least contributing to Haute Couture. The research shows, however, that Poiret differs from Chanel in that he made most of various natural colors whereas Chanel used black or beige colors that had been rarely used woman wear previously. They also differed in using fabric, permitting copy by others, ingredients and bottling of perfume, meaning of silhouette. This kind of comparative research is expected to provide more understanding of fashion history and to contribute to more rigorous analysis of key success factors of designers in his or her age of fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.758-769
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the traditional embroidery in India by region based on Bourdieu's cultural theory. As the research methods for this study, literature and case studies were conducted. The results of the study are summarized as follows. First, India's regions could be divided into four distinct regions based on language and religion. The main concepts of Bourdieu's cultural theory, namely the sub-dimensions of field and habitus, were the field of social system, the field of goods & economy, the field of environment/region, culture, and ethnicity. Second, Eastern India's embroidery was influenced by Hinduism and traditional art. The embroidery used various fabrics such as the Applique work, and vivid colors and patterns were mainly used in the Hindu myths, animals, and flower patterns of the embroidery. Third, embroidery in Western India was influenced by exotic cultures like Persian due to geographical conditions, and embroidery via the use of gold threads and various ornaments was developed. Symbolized flower patterns and geometric patterns were used a lot in the respective embroidery. Fourth, embroidery in southern India was influenced by the Dravidian culture and their architectural style, which saw the emergence of an embroidery that used simple colored cross-stitch. Most of the patterns in this embroidery are geometricized. Fifth, Northern Indian embroidery has historically served as the center of power, resulting in an embroidery that uses various forms and materials. In this embroidery, flower patterns are mainly used. Finally, the characteristics of the traditional embroidery of India's each region is based on Bourdieu's cultural theory, which could be summarized as ethnic religiosity, exotic splendor, structural formality, and symbolic power.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.195-206
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• 2012

Today, people are obsessed with fashion, makeup, hair care, weight control, and plastic surgery. In order to be satisfied with their appearance and attract attention, they invest so much time and money. The core values of many people are influenced heavily by materialism and appearance. Belly dancing is effective not only in just weight loss, but it also improves the health and corrects body postures like pelvis correction, and it also gives the dancers the pleasure of dancing to exotic music. A growing number of women in their 40s or older and senior citizens have become maniacs of belly dancing. The studies suggest that the participation in belly dancing helps increase life satisfaction and self-respect of the middle aged who often suffer from depression. Belly dancing has a strong effect in the life style of the middle-aged women. The costume and accessories necessary for belly dancing class help the participants) focus on the dance. These costumes and accessories reflect the desire of the wearer to be recognized in society. It is well shown in belly dancing that "fashion and beauty related services and products are used as an indicator to tell social status and position of the wearer as external elements like clothes, accessories, and physical appearance and have a highly important effect on interactions among people in society as a means of expressing oneself". In this respect, this study aims to examine middle-aged women's involvement in fashion and beauty depending on their participation in belly dancing.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.213-228
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.154-171
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• 2010

This study is to examine and compare the brand power such as image, satisfaction and loyalty, of the main brands(Donna Karan, Anne Kelin, Michaa, Obzee) with successful second brands(DKNY, AK Anne Klein, it michaa, O'2nd) to launch the brand Extension. The results are the following. First, in the many demographical characteristics, the main brand most favored by women in their 20s were only affected by age. Second, All 4 brands had a strong urbane and luxurious image, while 'exotic' or 'sporty' scored the bottom. Third, the results of the brand satisfaction were given out different values for the 4 brands. The overall satisfaction level was highest in Donna Karan and Obzee equally. Fourth, if we look at the brand loyalty level of the brands, Donna Karan scored highest followed by Obzee, Michaa, and Anne Klein. All 4 brands have shown that customers had high confidence to the brand and a high willingness to repurchase them. Fifth, about how the images of the main brand influence the satisfaction level of the brands. For Donna Karan, Michaa, and Obzee, the brand images did have effects on the brand satisfaction, but Anne Klein's brand image didn't affect its satisfaction level. Sixth, all 4 brands have shown that satisfaction levels had effects in brand loyalty.