• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.141-154
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• 2016

1973년 천마총에서 출토된 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니는 대부분 온전한 형태를 갖춘 국내에는 유례가 없는 유물이다. 죽제 장니의 출토 사례는 천마총 외에도 금관총 금령총 출토품이 있으나, 모두 편으로만 존재하여 정확한 형태나 제작기법에 대해서 알려진 바가 없다. 본 고에서는 천마총에서 출토된 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니의 화면구도와 제작기법에 대해 육안관찰과 X선형광분석(XRF), X선투과분석 등을 사용하여 알아보았다. 죽제 장니는 3등분할구조를 기본으로 방사선 형태의 중앙집중구도를 이루고 있으며, 표면을 장식한 10매의 투조금동판과 직물판, 죽제판 그리고 외연을 고정시켜주는 4매의 복륜으로 구성되어 있다. 금동판에는 다양한 세공법과 영락장식으로 표면을 장식하였고, 죽제판은 약 300개의 대오리를 사용하여 세올짜기를 바탕으로 집수를 넣어 엮음으로써 물결무늬를 표현하였다. 직물판은 2종류의 직물을 사용한 것으로 관찰되며, 가죽은 부분적으로 존재하여 판으로 제작되었는지는 확인 할 수 없었다. 각 판을 결합하기 위해서 금동원두정과 영락장식, 복륜 등을 사용하였다. 이번 조사로 금관총 금령총 출토품에 대한 기본조사와 함께 5~6세기 신라시대 죽제 장니의 대한 연구에 도움이 되었으면 한다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.371-376
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• 2010

평택 대추리 유적에서는 원삼국시대로 추정되는 대형옹이 발굴되었으며, 발굴 시 파손된 편들에서 접합한 흔적들을 선명히 관찰할 수 있었다. 그러므로 본 연구에서는 대형옹편들을 접합할 때 사용한 접착제의 성분을 실체현미경, FT-IR, py-GC/MS를 이용하여 알아보았으며, 같이 붙어 있는 직물의 종류를 투과광현미경으로 조사하였다. 실체현미경으로 단면을 관찰한 결과 옹편과 접합부위 사이에는 접착물질로 보이는 검은색 물질이 균일하게 도포되어 있으며, 아래에는 직물의 단면 모양을 지닌 선들을 확인할 수 있었다. 따라서 검은색 접착물질을 FT-IR과 py-GC/MS를 이용하여 성분을 분석한 결과 옻칠성분임을 알 수 있었다. 마지막으로 투과광현미경을 이용하여 옻칠과 함께 붙어있던 직물의 종류를 알아본 결과 대마(hemp)로 확인되었다. 지금까지 고대 유물을 수리할 때 사용한 재료들에 대하여 자료가 거의 없음으로 확인하기 어려웠으나 이번 연구를 통하여 원삼국시대 이전부터 대형옹를 접합할 때 옻칠을 사용하였음을 알 수 있었다. 그러므로 앞으로 고대로부터 사용되어온 접착제에 대하여 체계적인 성분조사가 이루어진다면 고대 유물에 사용되었던 접착.복원제를 연구하는데 큰 도움이 될 것으로 본다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.589-594
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for design and pattern development research in the modernization of Cheollik by comparing and analyzing the interrelationships between the components of the Cheollik. The 237 pieces of excavated costume Cheollik in the museums were surveyed. The size of the Cheollik components were examined by 100 year unit from 1400s to after 1800s. In the 1400s, the length of Cheollik was the shortest and the length of top was longer than the bottom. In the 1700s, the total length was the longest and the bottom was longer than the top. As the age increases, the total length and the bottom become longer and the length of the top becomes shorter. Poom and Gutseop were the largest in the 1400s and the smallest the after 1800s. As the age of the Poom and Gutseop decreased, the width of the Anseop increased. Gutseop was always present but Anseop was not always present in Cheollik components. As the ages passed, Jindong and Soogu became narrower and Baerae became wider. These change of Cheollik's sleeves form were affected by GongBok(so-called official wear) sleeves. By age, Cheollik did not show any big change in the basic shape, but the partial dimensions of the components showed changes. If the design and pattern research for modernization is done based on systematic establishment of pattern dimension of Cheollik, Cheollik dress combines practicality while preserving beauty and tradition at the same time.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.424-437
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• 2016

The study will analyze the costumes of the Scythians tribes who lived in the region of Altai in the 3-5 century BC. The purpose of this study is to prepare new material to re-examine the theory, which claims that the origin of the circular motives of korean costumes are to be found in the typology of the Scythian costumes. In this study, we analyzed the most recent reports of archaeological excavation about the unearthed clothes in the Pazyryk region and compared its information with european literature. The conclusion of this study is as follows: The jackets of the Pazyryk region are classified in two types, (1) opened jacket with narrow sleeve and (2) enclosed jacket with narrow sleeve. Trousers were separated by (1) narrow and (2) extreme wide trousers. The enclosed jacket of tunic form and extreme wide trousers are newly excavated. It proves, there was a vivid exchange between the Scythians and their neighboring cultures. It can be noted, that there existed a diverse Scythian culture of costumes, besides the commonly known clothing culture of the "Pazyryk-rider". Based upon the results of the previous research, it can be said that the opened jacket with narrow sleeve and narrow trousers are costume typologies which are common for all Scythian tribes of the whole Eurasian region. The hem of the edge of jacket is proven to be a connective element, which is common to all Scythian tribes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.400-410
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• 2017

Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.11-18
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of Hanbok pattern research published in journals and theses. We collected 70 articles related to the Hanbok pattern. The articles were divided into 7 chronicles based on publishing year, and analyzed by journal, publishing year, research theme, wearing subject and research pattern. Researches can be categorized into journals, university research paper, and master's theses. After 1981, studies on the pattern of Hanbok have been continuing. Most researches were focused on traditional Hanbok, especially about Jeogori. Research on modernized Hanbok started from Vchronicle(2001~2005), but it has not progressed anymore. According to the analysis on wearing subject, the number of research for female Hanbok was almost three times that of the male. Most researches were performed on adult Hanbok, and subjects were expanded to children, adolescents and middle-aged. The body shape of the wearer did not mentioned on many articles. Pattern researches started from excavated costume, but most researches were about commercial patterns. These researches on the pattern on Hanbok have shown an increasing tendency as the years passed, but researches on modernized Hanbok, including Hanbok pattern development for modern life style should be conducted more actively. In an aging society, as the number of middle-aged consumers increases, pattern research on middle-aged or older people and their various body shapes should be necessary.

• 한국공간구조학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.11-15
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• 2002

Formerly, it was called a tent and now, it is called membrane structure. If saying a tent, it imagines the tent of Bedouin, Mongolia and North American Indian. It became clear from the excavated wall painting that have been covered with the retractable roof of the canvas on the auditorium at the amphitheater in Pompeii and became a topic. These tents were made of the animal skins or fabric woven with the flax plants, and these tents are still used. However, if saying membrane material at present, it says the one to have applied a coating resin to the textile. Because the base fabric of membrane material is a woven fabric, the relation between the stress and the strain is different to the direction of the weaving thread. Moreover, the tensile force must always occur in the membrane surface. From these reasons, because the membrane structure corresponds to the particular building material and the construction method about the Building Standard Law, it must be examined specially that the membrane structural building have the same or any more safety as the provisions which was set to the Building Standard Law. Therefore, the technical standards about the membrane structural building became indispensable. In the paper, the kinds of the membrane materials, which are used for the membrane structural buildings, and technical standards process of the creating for the membrane structure buildings are introduced. Lastly, some of the soccer stadiums for 2002 FIFA World Cup KOREA/JAPAN which be covered with the roof of the membrane structures are presented.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.56-69
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• 2013

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.164-172
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• 2008

Soochonri tombs are assumed to be of the Baekje Kingdom in the early 5th century. We have examined 12 artifacts and 24 textiles in the four tombs. Along with hemp textiles, silk and embroidery threads were found In the Soochonri tombs. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be $8.5{\sim}15.5/cm^2$. Taffeta, one of the silk, can be categorized in to four types. First, the plain woven silk was made with warp and weft of the same thickness. The rates of thread count are also similar. Secondly the warp and weft are of the same thickness but has more spaces between threads. Third, the type of warp and weft is different in thickness, the thicker thread woven in the same direction. Lastly, a textile was woven with spaces the same as the width of the reed mark in every two warps. There were five compound weave found. Among them one was made with non-twisted thread for warp and s-twist thread for weft. One plain braiding with apparent spaces between threads were found. All three of the twining were made with wefts thicker than warps, barely showing the warps as a result. Textiles of the Soochonri tombs are the oldest of the Baekje Kingdom studied by far and therefore important artifacts of the Baekje Kingdom. These textiles are similar to those found in the King Muryeong's Tomb and tombs of Gaya and Shilla.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.35-51
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• 2020

To satisfy consumers' desire to enjoy their own individuality and cultural trends, the discovery of various materials and the expression of materials embodying their characteristics are increasingly important in the fashion jewelry industry. This study examines, paper mulberry fiber, a raw material of hanji that has been excavated as a new material for fashion jewelry, is durable as wall as, soft and easy to form, has a unique texture along with, excellent aesthetic quality, and expresses various colors, thereby differentiating itself from traditional fashion jewelry materials. The material itself also has symbolic significance as an approach to discovering new sustainable materials for fashion jewelry to ensure increased specificity of the product based on the premise of freedom of expression. The weight and optimal drying time of chicken fiber were derived for the study of fashion jewelry expression using the characteristics of paper mulberry fiber. The techniques of casting, deflection, packing and winding (winding beads with fibers and straps) were derived and four brooches were produced in total. This study is meaningful for the future of, the fashion jewelry industry as it presents the uses of new materials such as paper mulberry fiber to induce multidisciplinary consumption and to suggest a direction for the creation of new value-added products. Further, in order to expand the realm of fashion jewelry industry with our own competitive products that have secured our cultural identity and uniqueness in the global market, there must be continued follow-up research on mass production methods for industrialization.