• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.51-67
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style that were excavated from the tombs of the Yeosan Song family. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Except Dapho, all of the above mentioned coat were usually worn in the late 15th and late 16th centuries. Jikryeong and Cheolik were often worn in both of the centuries. But Aekjureum was often worn in the late 15th century and Jikryeong with no side hem and Jikryeong of Dopo style, in the late 16th century. Generally, the men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style had a short fore part and a long rear part, doubled kalgit of banmokpan style and a narrow sleeve in the late 15th century, while fore and rear parts of the same length, kalgit of ordinary style and the sleeve of bean chaff shape in the late 16th century. In both of the centuries, the coat had the outer Seop that was doubled and used short, narrow coat strings to be adjusted. Samgakmu was used to Jikryeong with no side hem and Aekjureum. Out of the coat, those which were lined or padded or quilted with cotten used Samgakmu, but those which were unlined didn't. To adjust the coat, usually, a pair of short, narrow coat strings was used. The coat had the coat strings directly stitched on them or indirectly connected to them by means of the coat string hanger.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.25-38
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the character and costume of the long-guan clay figures that were excavated in Bu-yeo Jeong-lim Buddist temple foundation. For this, we first examine the Chinese official uniforms with long-guan, classify the types of long-guan, and then investigate the costume that is worn with long-guan. There are three types of long-guan in China, and that of the clay figures in Jeong-lim Buddist temple foundation is of type 1. Therefore, the characters of the clay figures are woman servants, and their costume is either blouse-and-trousers or blouse-and-skirt.

• 복식
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• 제34권
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• pp.169-182
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• 1997

Focusing on khotan located in the southern Silk Route which was one of the most important kingdoms in the Tarim Basin this study attempts to examine the changes of costume in Khotan by compar-ing the costumes in the painted panel showing the story of silk princess with the excavated costumes from ancient tombs. Furthermore this study attempts to inves-tigate the impacts of cultural exchange be-tween China and its western neighboring country Eastern and Western Turkestan on costume. Excavated costumes from the Shanpula ancient tomb in the region of Khotan and from ancient Niya in the esat-ern border of Khotan and discoveries from Rawak and Dandan-oilik near by Yotkan the ancient capital of Khotan are exam-ined. Basic Khotan's costume was the two piece style of tops and trousers. Over the basic costume wearing a top wear with half sleeves was popular. Skirt was worn by women. Even though there were many kinds tops were classified into the two types kaftan and tunic. Thouth Khotan maintained a association with China for a long time the style of Khotan costume had imbued to China. Top wear with half sleeves was worn frequently in Khotan. Also in China top wear with half sleeves was worn as over-wear which was called ban-xiu ban-bi bei-zi Costume style of China is covering the body profoundly and wrapping front edge toward the right. The types of chi-nese top wear with half sleeves for exam-ple round-neck·confronting front edge crossing-neck·confronting front edge tu-nic type discord with the traditional chi-nese costume style There were many cas-es that half sleeved top wear was worn as over wear in T'ang dynasty. The phenom-enon was due to the prevalence of 'ho' (foreign) and half sleeved top wear was introduced by the countries to the west of China Khotan. A round neck garment was a general type for the men of cuntries to the westof China. Also Chinese wore round neck garment since South and North Dynasty The type of Chinese round neck garment was not tunic but kaftan. From costume relics and ancient paintings the type of Khotan's round neck garment was tunic which was recorded on the Chinese histori-cal documents as " guan-tou-shan" that is tunic the type of persian costume, Even thgough the painted panel showing the sto-ry of silk princess was made in the it me when Turks was a dominion on Central Asia Khotan's costume style was not changed toward Turk's costume style and remained tunic style.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.13-34
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• 2008

In Headgear and Ornaments for Diadem in the Period of the Three States there was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap(Trim), and Crown[Tree-typed Diadem and Tree and Antler-typed Diadem] was excavated from the tombs. Feathered Trim is 5 types, Feathered Trim I-A, Feathered Trim I-B, Feathered Trim II-A, Feathered Trim II-B, Feathered Trim II-C in according to upper part of central insert plate style. Feathered Trim I-A, I-B, II-B type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in ancient Silla, Gaya. Feathered Trim II-A type was excavated from the only Silla tombs and II-C type was excavated from Gaya tombs. The Ornaments for Diadem in Baekje was excavated from the tombs is adorned with a arranged leaf-stems on either sides and the flower-shaped. They were distinguished with the original mode of Goguryeo and ancient Silla at the time. Tree-typed Diadem is five part in according to the Mountain(;山)-typed piled up. Only one Mountain(;山)-typed one in three stand-up ornament(I-1 type), and three step one in three stand-up one(I-2 type), modification one (I-3 type), three step one of four and five stand-up ones(I-4 type), and four step one of four and five stand-up ones (I-5 type). Tree and Antler-typed Diadem is three part in according to the step of Mountain(; 山)-typed and cross-shaped of the upper part. Three one of three step one of Mountain(;山)-typed and two Antler- typed (II-1 type), cross-shaped one(II-2 type), four step one(II-3 type).

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2019

This paper tried a detailed approach to identify the correlation among basic elements that influenced the change of forms of the Po. To this end, the subjects were limited to the clothing from the 15th to the 18th century, which was found in the tombs of the period of Pyeonbokpo. The total number of excavated artifacts measured directly is 6 and other correctly described excavated artifacts for a total of 54 items. Per period and element, the types of collars and Seop were presented by classifying collars in 4 types, and Seop in 3 types. On the basis of the classification, the relics selected in this paper were analyzed considering the appearance, period, and rate per type of each element. The type and the change of forms of each element per period, with the focus on the appearance, were identified and the factors influencing the change of forms per element and the correlation between such factors were investigated. The representative type in the first period included dual collars, dual Seop and the representative type in the second period was characterized by a shawl collar and a dual Seop joining the pieces. The representative type in the third period was characterized by round collars and a short Seop. The elements determining the forms of Po, including collars and Seop, had a correlation to the lapse of time and had been systematically influencing each other. Furthermore, the overall change of form was caused due to the social functions as well as the supplementary function of keeping balance among the elements and accordingly, the change of forms was think characterized per period.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2004년도 International Conference & Exhibition
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• pp.59-61
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• 2004

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.97-106
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• 2017

본 연구는 출토직물의 세척을 위한 천연계면활성제 선정을 위하여 그 특성과 세척성을 알아보는데 목적이 있다. 이를 위해 대조군으로 합성계면활성제인 SDS (Sodium dodecyl sulfate)와 천연계면활성제 중 LES (Disodium laurethsulfosuccinate), apple wash (Sodium cocoyl apple amino acids), tea saponin (Saponin), cornacopa (Decyl glucoside), coco betain (Cocamidopropyl betaine) 등 5종을 선별하여 계면활성제의 FT-IR (Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy) 분석으로 구조를 확인하고, pH와 표면장력 측정으로 특성을 파악하였다. 인공오염포 4종과 출토직물편에 대한 세척성 실험을 수행하였다. 그 결과 인공오염포에 대해서는 apple wash, tea saponin, cornacopa가 세척성에 있어서 SDS만큼 좋은 것으로 나타났으며 출토직물편에 대해서는 tea ssponin과 coco betain의 세척성이 좋은 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 세제의 안전성과 세척성을 감안할 때 천연계면활성제 중 tea saponin이 출토복식 세척을 위한 천연계면활성제로써 적합한 것으로 사료되었다.

• 복식
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• 제2권
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• pp.9-21
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• 1978

The object of this article is to examine the shapes and the development of the costume worn in the early and middle Yi Dynasty from the viewpoint of the history of customes with the excavated clothing from Chung-Ju (1530 A.D.), Wool-San (1650 A.D.), An-Dong (1650 A.D.) etc. The study of the history of costumes of the early years of the Yi Dynasty has been mainly dependent upon fiblirographical records sofar. So I have arranged in order some excavated clothing of the early Yi Dynasty, which gives us some means for the study of Korean historical costumes. It is noticeably remarkable that the daily wear of the early Yi Dynasty period was excavated for the first time from Chung-ju. The results drawn from this research are: It is argued that the original from of Chul-nik(天翼) has been excavated. This is the remnants Mongolian clothing of the Koryo Dynasty, and it is sketched in the Dai-Myong-jib-lei(大明集禮) as Yo-sun-o-ja which the lower classes usually put on. The similar clothing is also handed down as a Dan-po(緞袍) from the ming Dynasty, and we can presume that Chul-nik was a common clothing regardless of the social status of their wearer. It is also remarkable that even women at those times wore the Chul-nik. The length of the Cheo-go-ri of the early Yi Dynasty was the middle hip length, and the edge of the sleeves was very wide which called Cham-soo, and it was handed down to the middle period of the Yi Dynasty which can be seen in the coat (po) of women(直領袍). The systems of the straight-collar Po(袍) during the early Yi Dynasty were discovered for the first time. This Po(袍) which would represent the po-system of the early years of Yi Dynasty, is handed down even to the middle of Yi Dynasty. The collars of the Po(coat) of the early Yi Dynasty are mostly double collars(二重衿) and these give us the advantage in reconsidering of the cheo-go-ri(赤古里) of the Kingdom of Shin-la, or Koryo Dynasty. The edge of the women's Ba-ji(袴) of the early Yi Dynasty was wide and the Ba-ji had a shoulder belt which connect the front part with the back one, which showed the practical point of Ba-ji. The men's Ba-ji of the middle Yi Dynasty was the same as can be seen today and it is clear that the Mongolian Ba-ji dated to B.C. 1 was the same one also. In the system of the Chi-ma(常), there seems to be no differences between the ancient styles and those of these times.