• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.33-48
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• 2001

This study is on the sewing construction of the 17th century clothing through the Excavated Costumes in O-chang, ChungBuk in 1998. The followings are the results of this study. There are various sewing constructions in this excavates costume : a running stitch.a back stitch.a half back stitch.a french seam.a gobsol(korean traditional seam sewing). We can see that the sewing construction of the 17th century-clothing depends on construction styles : one layer, two layers, clothing padded with cotton(include quilt). We can see that sewing construction in the one taler clothing consisted of a running stitch, a french seam, a gobsol seam. In the two layer clothing the construction included a running stitch and half back stitch. a running switch and a decorated top stitch(3stitch) were used in the clothing padded with cotton. We can see that the sewing construction enhanced the function of keeping the shape of clothing and the raw edges. We can see that the shape of clothing is important in presentation of aesthetic of the clothing. Such a kind of sewing construction lasted from the early Chosen Dynasty through the 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.8
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• pp.63-71
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• 2011

The excavated costume of Jangheung Ma's included jeogoris, skirts, and pants, and a jungchimak(중치막), jangot(장옷), cheolrik(철릭), and jikryeong(직령). Most of the items were made of silk and cotton. The clothes for shrouding were plainer than those found in other regions. The method of sewing was mostly broad-stitching, but backstitch, hem tacking and decorative saddle stitching were also used. Unlined clothes were made with on old method of sewing(옛쌈솔), which was used mainly in the early period of the Chosun dynasty. Dating of the excavated costume can be determined by examining the collar of the Korean coat or jacket, the shape and form of sleeve, the size of the sub, and the form of gusset. Straight, diagonal, and broad sleeves were the most commonlyused shapes of sleeve in the middle period of $17^{th}$ century. In the latter period of Chosun, the trend moved towards a single-sub.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.49-62
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• 1998

This study investigates the color of daily clothes of middle era of Yi dynasty by examining the color of excavated clothing which was the real clothes in 16th and 17th centuries. The purposes of this study lie in understanding emotional feeling observed by exact measurement of the color of the excavated and devising a method of reserving the color of the excavated by inspecting the discolored color of the excavated. For this, the color difference was measured by color measuring system. Minolta Chroma-meter, and then recorded in L*a*b system. The 3-dimensional color difference was observed by analyzing these data on Methmetica and change in color with ageing was assessed by reconstructing the color by Phoposhop. The color construction of daily clothes of middle era of the Chosun Dynasty was founded on a philosophy, and it was made up of colors such as white, brown, and blue. This color construction seemed to be based on the philosophy of naturalism symbolizing surrounding nature, e.g., white symbolizes Bak-sasang(bak-philosophy) and blue implies Eumyangohangsul.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.15-25
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• 2009

The structure and material of Mang-geon from excavated tomb of Yi-ikjung in 1700', Seoul, were analyzed and identified. The Mang-geon was worn by Yi-ikjung when it is found. Until now, it is know that Mang-geon is made of horsehair, but it find out to be made of silk threads. This result verified the presence of 'sa-kyul Mang-geon' which been estimated to used only for document records. This proves Mang-geon has been produced in the silk threads as well as horsehair and human hair. The front and back of the Mang-geon was made of intertwisted silk threads by using simple linking method. Dang is constructed of looped linking method. The size of Dang is wider, which give greater flexibility to wrap top of head.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.956-966
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to find out a suitable cleaning method for excavated textiles of Jeon-ui Lee(1570∼1647). The textiles were excavated from her tomb in 1997, and her descendents put them in a box without any treatment and kept them in the warehouse since then. We used two kinds of silk as samples, non-dyed and dyed textile. The experiment was performed by 8 kinds of wet cleaning and dry cleaning methods, an ultrasonic cleaner was used in the wet cleaning, decane and perchloroethylene were used as solvents in the dry cleaning. The use of the ultrasonic cleaner in the wet cleaning method did not show any damage to the fibers of the textiles and it not only cleaned well but also was safe for the fugitive dyes. It resulted in more effective cleaning when the detergent was used together. Therefore, it is effective to use the ultrasonic cleaning on the delicate historical textiles and helpful to the operator's safety and environment.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.1
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• pp.243-255
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.23-31
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• 2003

The Purpose of this study was to isolate and identify fungi found in excavated clothes dating on the 16th century. As a result of microscoping with LPCB staining, seven isolated strains were classified-Acremonium strictum, Acremonium kiliense, Fonsecaea sp., Candida sp., Trichoderma sp., Cladosporium spp., Penicillium spp.. In the process of isolation and identification of fungi by the sort of textile, more fungi were found in cotton, cotton batt and silk than in ramie and hemp, suggesting that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the Comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of fungi in washed samples. In the cellulase activity test, Acremonium kiliense had the highest level cellulase activity, suggesting that Acremonium killiense has an important Influence on damage of textiles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.532-541
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• 2002

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.115-126
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• 2002

This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.51-67
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• 2009

The study is about 'Dap-ho', a kind of men's coat in the early, and mid period of Joseon Dynasty. The study examined the kinds, color, and fabric of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty". It also examined the characteristic, and the change of shape through excavated costume, and the period is limited until early 17th century. In "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", there is record of Dap-ho from King Sejong period to Gwang-hae-gun period. After 160 years, it appears again in King Young-jo period, and remains until King Soon-jong period. It was mentioned 168 times, from over 100 cases. There are 26 colors of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and among them, green appears the most. Thin fabric, like Joo [紬], Sa[紗], and Cho[綃] was used often, and there are records of double layered, and cotton padded Dap-ho. The period when Dap-ho appears as excavated costume is almost the same as, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" and disappears after the decease of Dae-ho Kang(1541-1624), and Sun-un Yun(1580~1628). After in this period, Dan-ryung, and Jik-ryung changes into double layered clothes, and Jik-ryung functioned as the underclothes of Dan-ryung, instead of Dap-ho. The excavated costumes of Hwak Kim(1572~1633), and Eung-hae Lee(1547~1626) proofs this. But Dap-ho was called 'Jun-bok', 'Dugree', Que-ja', and 'Dap-ho' until the later period of Joseon Dynasty.