• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.70-74
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• 2005

This study was aimed to isolation and identification of attached bacteria on the clothes excavated from Deajeon area dating on the 16th century. From the observation with colony shape, 17 bacterial strains were isolated, and then 7 bacterial strains were identified with morphological and biochemical characteristics. Streptococcus sp., Alcaligenes faecalis, Gemella sp., Acinetobacter sp., Pseudomonas vesicularis, Aeromonas sain. salmonicida, Moraxella spp. In observation of the bacterial strains by the sort of textile, more bacterial strains were found in silk, cotton, and cotton batt than in ramie and hemp. It is suggest that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of bacterial strains in washed samples. In the cellulase activity tests, all isolated bacteria had low level cellulase activity.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.8
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• pp.63-71
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• 2011

The excavated costume of Jangheung Ma's included jeogoris, skirts, and pants, and a jungchimak(중치막), jangot(장옷), cheolrik(철릭), and jikryeong(직령). Most of the items were made of silk and cotton. The clothes for shrouding were plainer than those found in other regions. The method of sewing was mostly broad-stitching, but backstitch, hem tacking and decorative saddle stitching were also used. Unlined clothes were made with on old method of sewing(옛쌈솔), which was used mainly in the early period of the Chosun dynasty. Dating of the excavated costume can be determined by examining the collar of the Korean coat or jacket, the shape and form of sleeve, the size of the sub, and the form of gusset. Straight, diagonal, and broad sleeves were the most commonlyused shapes of sleeve in the middle period of $17^{th}$ century. In the latter period of Chosun, the trend moved towards a single-sub.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.1035-1043
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• 2000

This paper studied the excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek that had been found in Kwangju metropolitan city in 1986. The excavated costumes mainly show Po(포) including Chopni(첩리), Dapho(답호), Danryung(단령), Jikryung (직령). In addition, there are some kinds of trousers, hat, korean socks. The meanings of excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek are the followings: 1. They offer the important research materials to studying of general dress. 2. They offer actual proof materials of 15-16 century in opposition to depending on documentary records. 3. They offer the useful informations on the form, textile, dyeing because of good condition. 4. They offer the variety of Po that many persons weared at that times. 5. They offer the practical and rational construction by folding pleats and needlework. 6. They did not quilted padded clothes in comparison with other dress at that times. 7. They offer the important materials on the trousers. In the near future, we will study excavated costumes on dyeing, textile structure, trousers formation and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.99-112
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• 1996

In this study I purpose a new approach to the study of Korean costume history which includes a statistical method used in the prac-tical measurement of excavated Po's and the analysis of their quantitative changes. In the framework used in this study I de-pend on the nineteen variables picked out from the typological and chronological analysis of excavated clothes. The interrelationship of the variables as well as the standard of each part and its deviation in other forms are may main concern. Other methods are also very useful in my thesis: Correlation analysis Regression analysis Discrimination analysis Cluster analysis Discrimination analysis Cluster analysis Factor analysis One way analysis of variance. The findings of my study can be summarized as follows: 1. Every type of po has a general tendency to have more broadened sleeves while it does not show any considerable changes in the total length and in the width of armholes. 2. In the Correlation analysis each part of Po's is handled separately accordign to its chronology and type. The Regreesion analysis makes it possible to provide the sizes of miss-ing parts in excavated clothes and the numeri-cal value of each part needed in the pattern making. 3. The Discrimination analysis of the Po's whose types are unknown leads to the con-clusion that Chongsam and Chikryong Po are classified into Chikryong Po whereas Hongui is classified into Jooui In addition I propose discriminational function by which the age classification is possible discovering the variables associated with time change. 4. Five items-Gerneral Park's clothes Taewongun's clothes and three others produced later for the purpose of preserving Korean costume are proved to be in a differ-ent group and hence analyzed separately in the visual grouping of changui which is done after the cluster analysis and the factor analysis. 5. The results of the one way analysis of variance reveal that there is a difference in each part from period: the back width the sleeve length the sleeve width thelean fig-ure the breasttie length the breasttie width outside quesset upper inside quesset lower outside neckband length insideneckband length etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.197-205
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• 2001

It is possible to examine the costume of Chosun era that tombs excavated in chonnam area, have contained various kinds of clothes. There are six tombs in which costumes have been excavated in Chonnam provinces. One(Go un) is tomb of the early years of Chosun Dynasty and the other tombs is those of the middle years of Chosun Dynasty(16∼17 century). There were many kinds of Po which was called Jickryung, Danryung, Chullik, Dappo, Jangui, So-changui etc, and contained chechori, skirts, under-trousers in tombs. But there are not see Kuui, Dopo that excavated in other area. Chullik showed the features of winkle, sleeves and the ratio of length. Dappo was only to be seen in a Go uns grave. Mens chechori collar(kit) was called Mokpankit in all, and womans chechori collar was called Kalkit or Tangkokit. The length of chechori was different according to the times. Most trousers are types of underwear and also there are Sapok tousers, open trousers. The characterstics of excavated costumes are not regional feature but trend of the times. The costumes excavated in Chonnam area are similiar to those excavated in other area at the same times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.51-67
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• 2009

The study is about 'Dap-ho', a kind of men's coat in the early, and mid period of Joseon Dynasty. The study examined the kinds, color, and fabric of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty". It also examined the characteristic, and the change of shape through excavated costume, and the period is limited until early 17th century. In "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", there is record of Dap-ho from King Sejong period to Gwang-hae-gun period. After 160 years, it appears again in King Young-jo period, and remains until King Soon-jong period. It was mentioned 168 times, from over 100 cases. There are 26 colors of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and among them, green appears the most. Thin fabric, like Joo [紬], Sa[紗], and Cho[綃] was used often, and there are records of double layered, and cotton padded Dap-ho. The period when Dap-ho appears as excavated costume is almost the same as, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" and disappears after the decease of Dae-ho Kang(1541-1624), and Sun-un Yun(1580~1628). After in this period, Dan-ryung, and Jik-ryung changes into double layered clothes, and Jik-ryung functioned as the underclothes of Dan-ryung, instead of Dap-ho. The excavated costumes of Hwak Kim(1572~1633), and Eung-hae Lee(1547~1626) proofs this. But Dap-ho was called 'Jun-bok', 'Dugree', Que-ja', and 'Dap-ho' until the later period of Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.9
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• pp.25-33
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• 2011

The number of Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes that have been discovered is small but includes various kinds of coat. These coats have become important clues when trying to determine styles of coat that were present in the mid-17he composition of the costumes found were various, including unlined, lined, padded and quilted variations. Unlined clothes were sewed using broad-stitching, hemming, half backstitching, and backstitching. The unique sewing style of the 17th century was shown in Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes. Seams on the back of one coat were not connected but rather sewed as a whole because of the width of the cloth. There was a more elaborate sewing style on lined clothes than on unlined clothes, alongside the use of selvage on the reverse of the costumes, marking the face not by using other clothes, but by the sewing line. Because of their to kit types, the width of the sleeves, the presence of a Cheolrik string, the ratio of the upper jacket to the bottom skirt, and the width between the armpits and bottom hems in Jungchimak, Ryu Ji Kyung's clothes can be used as exemplary models of mid-17th century clothing.