• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.157-175
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to establish a theoretical concept of nudism from sociocultural context, to examine its formative characteristics, to analyze the cultural meaning of nudism style showing in the 2000's fashion world, and to analyze and examine its aesthetic qualities. The way of a study was based on analysis and review on philosophy, aesthetics, sociology, popular culture and various documents at home and abroad and previous study and research materials about art and clothes for theoretical study. Also, we carried out a case study by analyzing photo data from fashion books, magazines and internet websites, considering the body and dress as visual objects. The summary and conclusions of this study are as follows: 1. Nudism of the sociocultural context was divided into change of understanding of the body and liberation of the body; naturalism; resistant culture; psychoanalysis context. 2. The formative characteristics of nudism style in fashion are classified in Exposure, Transparency and Body Conscious. 3. The cultural meaning of nudism style expressed in the 2000's fashion are sexual opening, surfeit of mass media, pursuit of naturalism, lookism, and individualism. 4. Nudism style expressed in 2000's fashion is drawn as three aesthetic qualities: Eroticism, Primitivism and Futurism. First, Eroticism of nudism style fashion which seeks for sexual stimulus is classified in Sensualism, Provocation and Innocence. Second, Primitivism of nudism style fashion which tends towards naturalism objecting to mechanic and digital civilization and hoping for return to the origin is classified in Primitivism, Naturalism and Sensualism as per aesthetics qualities. Futurism which is the nudism style presenting futuristic expression through using a new material is analyzed as High Technology, Cyber Sexism and functional Future.

• 복식
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• 제21권
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• pp.101-112
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• 1993

In representing eroticism in fashion advertising the sentiments of the Post-Modernism thinking of only impulse and pleasure as practical and affirming a human life may he divided into the follwing expression First1 y, Sumbolic Expression The sentiments of Post-Modernism associ ates, the direction sexual intercourse by means of the state and action of wearing the costume or represents indirect symbols with the symbolic expression of an object or phenomenon Secondly, Masochistic, Sadistic Expression. The sentiments of the Post-Modernism in expressing eroticism give people masochistic or sadistic feelings or expressions by means of protographic technigues or the state or background of wearing the model's costume. Thirdly, Homosexual Expression. The sentiments of the Post-Modernism is appropriate to expressing an androgynous and unisex look to people as a role of meeting potential instincts. Fourthy, Feministic Expression. The sentiments of me Post-Modernism also express a subjective woman and represent an extension of her ego through the existence of the woman herself by means of the body-conscious look. Fifthly, Narcissistic Expression. The de-genre such as the introduction high technology and de-campus rnakes consumers have theirself-identity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.177-192
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to define masculinity as a shilling concept, stemming from the process of power groups controlling the conscious and unconscious of human beings to diffuse their ideologies, and to examine how masculinity has been reflected in aesthetic images in men's bodies and fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research and demonstrative studies through the analysis of pictures and photos were undertaken. Emerging in the wake of the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, the absolute powers such as the bourgeois elite, males and the Wet emphasized the importance of reason, and made aesthetic images such as authority, robustness and modernization in men's fashion. In the conversion to the Information Society, poweres horizintally spread out over society. By using non-reason, diverse power groups have broken down traditional masculinity and express diverse aesthetic images in men's fashion such as eroticism, multi-culturalism and liberation.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.28-38
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• 2007

This study is on the image of a woman's body exposure, expressed in various situations or images in the modern fashion. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, either the exposure or stress of a woman's specific body parts like breast, waist, hips, or legs which can be sensed totally different from man's or the ironic disclosure of body parts always lapped around emphasizes femininity by giving full play the unique sexual beauty of a woman's body. Second, the desire of disclosure to have others' attention with the concealment as suggestive exposure expresses the eroticism. The modified eroticism is found different from the conventional concept and is based on the desire to make others notice one's existence continually by the sexual exposure dress particularly to entire the other sex, the dismantlement of changing an underwear to an outer-dress, and so forth. Third, both exposure of a woman's sexual body parts and expression of exposure to the utmost by laying a woman's entire body bare can mean sex liberty in the laissez-faire generation. This may suggest a pleasure-oriented way of thinking of the self-consolation rather than showing others, or feature the personality and the liberty endowed women with.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.219-226
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• 2001

This study analyzed the works, introduced in the collections of Thierry Mugler in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. The formative aesthetic expressed in the works of Thierry Mugler were characterized by the eroticism and the futurism. The formative aesthetic of eroticism were specified into the sexualism, primitivism and fetishism, and those of futurism were divided into the cosmocorps and the grotesque. The eroticism was based on the design concept on the body of woman. The sexuality was expressed through the design concept of opposing, extreme and conversion method. The primitivism was presented through the design concept of extreme method to express a returning to nature and a nostalgia and an adoration for the past. The pieces, expressed the fetishism, was presented through opposing concepts, such as a bondage and an extreme expose. It was indicated that the design concept of futurism was based on the future. The cosmocorps was expressed through the extreme method by using geometrical formative aesthetic and contrast color combination. The grotesque represented the mysterious and abhorrent futurism through the design concept of depaysment conversion and analogy.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.445-460
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• 1994

This paper analyzes Empire style costume based on the fashion theory of Lauer and Lauer. We classify fashion into tow categories, a personal identities, the social competition and sexual competition, he economic factor as a functional factor, and the reflective thing of zeitgeist, eroticism as a dynamic factor. These factors can be visualized from fashion design, textiles, ornaments expressed in the paintings.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2014

Entering the twentieth century, corsets began to disappear with the tendency of concentrating on slim bodies and youth. As corsets proceeded to be discarded, they began to be internalized as a means of controlling the body; 'muscular corset' takes hold. However, the internalized corset increasingly appears to be externalized again in contemporary fashion. This study investigates how natural body is reconstructed as socio-cultural image drawing on the relationship between the signifier and signified of corset. As for the research methodology this study conducts literature survey to investigate the internalization of corset. This study proceeds to examine the subjects of fashion collections from 1980 to 2010 and samples the outfits which represent the externalization of corset through case analysis. Through the discussion of the study, the relationship of signifier and signified in the externalization of corset is argued as follows: first, by maintaining signifier and signified of the traditional corset as underwear, aggressive eroticism of corset has been observed, second, by perceiving corset as the agency of the body, fetishism of corset dissociates the function of sexual object from corset while distorting the relationship of signifier and signified, third, through embodying the notion of muscular corset literally, the ironical representation of corset as a torturing device of female body deconstructs the traditional relation of signifier and signified of corset.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2001년도 International Costume Culture Conference
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• pp.57-58
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• 2001

• 복식
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• 제62권2호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2012

Based on the fact that a parody is widely used as one of main methods of creating art, this study focuses on the parodic techniques used by one of the most famous contemporary artists, Cindy Sherman. Her unique techniques, which are shown through parody, provide different aesthetical values to contemporary fashion designs. The purpose of this study is to find out whether or not contemporary fashion designs that use parodies can be presented as creative fashion designs. The study was carried out by analyzing data retrieved from various literatures, dissertations, magazines and the Internet. The period between the late 1990s and 2010 is the time when parodies were widely introduced, this study presents tables, pictures and photographs based on data collected from that period. The result of this study suggests that there are mainly four expressive techniques used to create Cindy Sherman's parodies: female viewed from a male's perspective, pornography and sexual satire, narrative and realistic reproductions, and foreignness and harmony in conflict. This study discovered that based on these four expressive techniques, contemporary fashion can produce the following four results according to their production styles, silhouettes, materials, and colors: the beauty of the retro pinup girl style, the beauty of eroticism and sexual satire, the beauty of history through reinterpretation of the past, and the beauty of compromise through conflict. As described above, this study attempts to seek how techniques of parodies give different aesthetical values whether or not they can become creative fashion design techniques by listing Cindy Sherman's unique expressive techniques in her parodies in relation to contemporary fashion designs.