• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.29-47
• /
• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.26 no.5
• /
• pp.1-21
• /
• 2022

Purpose of this study is to develop fashion design with greater added value and to seek the expandability of its expression domain by applying special computer code and tape embroidery machine capable of creating more special and fancier fashion to the development of fashion design by focusing on the fashion decorations that are becoming increasingly more computer systematized. For this purpose, expression techniques and effects of computer embroidery machine code and tape trimming decoration techniques, and cases of modern fashion design are examined. Major images are then deduced to designing and production of actual 6 creative pieces equipped with creativity and commercial value by applying such images deduced. As the results, it is not only possible to develop highly value added fashion design by utilizing mixed computer embroidery machine code and tape trimming decoration technique but also to produce countlessly new and unique surfaces by inducing changes in diversified pattern expressions, thickness of cord thread, and width, color and texture of material, etc. of the tape. This can maximize the expression domain of design, and fulfill the fashion desires of consumers wanting modern enhancement of quality and individualization. If multilateral attempts and studies for the aforementioned purposes can be expanded continuously, it is deemed possible to broaden the range of expression techniques in fashion design and, moreover, to make contribution towards enhancement of competitiveness of fashion industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.231-241
• /
• 2009

Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.42-58
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail. The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows: First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects. Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(applique, gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.9
• /
• pp.1-15
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of and to examine the characteristics of the golden decoration technique used for expressing patterns on the costumes from Dang dynasty to Cheong dynasty era. In order to classify the types of the golden decoration technique and to examine its characteristics, literature review, focusing on documents and records of China, and investigation on the relics from Dang to Cheong Dynasty era were conducted. The types of decoration technique using gold include china JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (attaching gold powder and flake technique), GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique), GeumSaTapestry, mixed technique. Interestingly, it was newly found in this study that embroidery with golden thread was used in the GeumSaTapestry technique and that there were some cases of the mixture of 2-3 gold decoration technique. The GeumSajaSu technique was used the most frequently from Dang dynasty to Yo dynasty era. However, its use had decreased enormously while the use of JigGeum had increased a lot since Geum dynasty era. The mixture of 2-5 techniques was used frequently in JigGeum, GeumSaJaSu, and GeumSaTapestry, but not used in InGeum. Particularly, the mixture technique was the most frequently used in the GeumSaTapestry, which expresses by composition of paintings. All four methods were used the mostly frequently in costumes, while GeumSaJaSu and GeumSaTapestry were generally used for home accessories. InGeum and GeumSaJaSu were used a lot for gaze and leno fabrics such as Sa or Ra, while JigGeum was mostly used for satin weaved fabrics like Dan.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.101-113
• /
• 2011

This research aims to enrich the field of decorative designs for the T-shirts of youth clothes. Youth T-shirts have been chosen because they are essential apparel and one of the most important casualwear. T-shirts are probably the number one item sold across the world. Every tourist shop has many of them, worldwide. The decorative ideas have been inspired from some symbols of Coptic arts. This incorporates the cultural power of Coptic art as a vital starting point for new design ideas and development of products. However, the purpose of this research is to make our youth know something about the Coptic arts of Egypt, as a part of their history, and on the other hand for tourists as well. Youth are very suitable tools for spreading our new ideas where they are energetic and full of life. In this work, twenty-one designs are presented inspired from ten Coptic symbols. Five designs have been implemented in three different ways of printing and embroidery, i.e. there are fifteen models have been formed. An opinion poll has been occurred for two groups of youth, one is younger and the other is older, hence T-test has been applied. It is clarified that our designs are approved by the younger group than the older one. The results of this work can offer some good reasons for further investigations on the fashionable decorated designs for youth and tourists as well; in addition to the decoration education development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.117-136
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to present a classification system of the hand-made and machine-made lace according to the configuration method and re-make the category and definition of lace to consider the emergence and development of major laces techniques. The re-made category and definition of the lace is as follows. The lace usually consists of ground and motifs, however, the techniques of netting and sprang are suitable for making ground than motif, so I think it is appropriate to exclude them from the category of the lace. Many scholars are excluded openwork embroidery fabric from the category of the lace. But, an openwork embroidery fabric is the basis of a needle point lace called true lace and is consist of motif and ground. I think it is appropriate to include it in the category of the lace. I think it is also appropriate to include in the category of the lace that the eyelet embroidery fabric which mimics the openwork embroidery fabric in the machine. Lace is redefined that a fabric with openwork decoration consists of motif and ground, constructed by a variety of ways such as plaiting, twisting, looping, knotting of threads or embroidering by hand or machine. The classification of the lace is presented as follows. Hand-made lace is classified bobbin lace, needle point lace, embroidery lace, knotted lace, crochet lace, and knitting lace. Machine-made lace is classified raschel lace, leaver lace, torchon lace, and machine-made embroidery laces which include tool lace, eyelet embroidery lace, chemical lace, etc.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.5
• /
• pp.902-915
• /
• 2007

This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.99-112
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this research is to study India's traditional embroidery method, Mirror Work, and to evaluate the examples of contemporary costumes as well as the applications of art to clothing that have been influenced by this technique, in order to expand its usage for creation of a new fashion image. Research in the literature and application of works related to Mirror Work have demonstrated: First of all, as a traditional embroidery method that represents the folk art of India, Mirror Work displays unique methods used in different regions and the way that various methods and materials were combined by the use of mirrors, beads, and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$. Secondly, it was found that the presentation of Mirror Work in the $pr{\hat{e}}t$-a-porte collection is based on a traditional embroidery method using both developed materials and adapted methods to express traditional reproducibility, geometric simplicity, and aesthetic characteristics of complex decorations. Thirdly, new plasticity for art to wear clothing can be created through various methods aside from embroidery, for example by a technique of wrapping crochet laces and tapes around the mirror for decorative purposes. Based on these results it can be inferred that, from the perspective of multiple forms for decorations, Mirror Work shares multiple forms of personal aesthetic goals through the mirror's unique quality for expression and enhanced images of artistic decorative art. Also, the introduction of traditional materials and methods for today's folk art and traditional costumes can be the subject of unique aesthetic characteristics based on different perspectives of the recreation of tradition. Finally, it can further create a new plasticity within the globalization phenomena.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.139-156
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of traditional Korean patterns appearing on fashion collections from 1990 to 2005. Traditional Korean patterns have been used as an important element to express a Korean image since the 1990s. Frequently used patterns included several kinds of geometric patterns, plant patterns(flower, peony, Four Gracious Plants), and Chinese character patterns. Specifically, since the 2000s, animal patterns such as tiger, Chinese phoenix, and giraffe which were not often used, plant patterns such as arabesque, peony, and flower, and a variety of Chinese character patterns appeared. For the expression techniques, while embroidery and printing was often used in the 1990s, they became varied into printing, beading, embroidery, gold and silver leaf, and hand painting after 2000 as a result of designers' active attempts. The aesthetic characteristics of fashion design with its focus on traditional patterns were analyzed. First, Chinese character patterns and phoenix pattern which were mainly used for a court suit, and show the excellence and unique originality of Korean culture. Second, traditional Korean patterns directly and indirectly imply symbolistic significance of lucky sign and illustrate the use of various lucky sign patterns. Third, traditional Korean patterns such as arabesque or peony were expressed by colorful embroidery to add decorative beauty. Finally, traditional Korean patterns reflect a naturalistic worldview and are completed finished as the design.