• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.213-216
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• 2006

The effect of cashmere yarn twist, knitted fabric density, and cashmere properties on pilling rates of cashmere knitted fabric is investigated in this paper. The experimental results show that yarn twist and fabric density have little influence on pilling rates of cashmere knitted fabric for yarn 38.4 tex/2 when yarn twist varies from 234 T/m to 272 T/m, and the fabric density is 9.7, 10.7, and 11.2 yarns/inch, respectively. The length of cashmere fiber, in particular less than 7.5 mm, is responsible for the pilling rates of cashmere knitted fabric based on optimal scaling regression analysis.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.119-123
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• 2003

Fluff (lint, fiber fly) generation, especially related to yarn structure, was investigated. Research centered on the fiber length related to fluff generation during the knitting process. Short fiber length composing yarn structure was a main source of the fluff shedding. High quality spun yarn with longer length of fiber was recommended to the high speed knitting industry in order to reduce process troubles such as yarn breakage, etc. but the cost is doubtable to the manufacturers. A trial to reduce the fluff trouble by using chemicals to hold the short fiber on the surface of the yam was suggested and the research showed a positive effect to the problem. However, another factors including a by-product of chemical residue and searching more feasible material need to be concerned for the future research.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.93-97
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• 2005

Air interlacing serves to protect the yarn against damage, strengthens inter-filament compactness or cohesion, and ensures fabric consistency. The air interlacing nozzle is used to introduce intermittent nips to a filament yarn so as to improve its performance in textile processing. This study investigates the effect of interlacing nozzle geometry on the interlacing process. The geometries of interlacing nozzles with multiple air inlets located across the width of a yarn channels are investigated. The basic interlacing nozzle is the yarn channel, with a perpendicular single air inlet in the middle. The yarn channel shapes are cross sections with semicircular or rectangular shapes. This paper presents three doubled sub air inlets with main air inlet and one of them is slightly inclined doubled sub air inlets with main air inlet. The compressed air coming out from the inlet hits the opposing wall of the yarn channel, divides into two branches, flows trough the top side of yarn channel, joins with the compressed air coming out from the sub air inlet and then creates two free jets at both ends of the yarn channel. The compressed air moves in the shape of two opposing directional vortices. The CFD-FASTRAN was used to perform steady simulations of impinging jet flow inside of the interlace nozzles. The vortical structure and the flow pattern such as pressure contour, particle traces, velocity vector plots inside of interlace nozzle geometry are discussed in this paper.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.87-92
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• 1991

The shrinkages and physical properties of silk yarn were studied on the effect of treatment concentration, time and temperature with various neutral salts. The degummed silk yarn was shrunk about 35 percent by highly concentrated solution of Ca(NO3)2 on conditions of S.G.(special gravity) 1.45 at 9$0^{\circ}C$ or S. G. 1.46 at 8$0^{\circ}C$. About 40 percent of silk yarn was contracted in length by the treatment of CaCl2 solution on conditions of S. G. 1.33 at 9$0^{\circ}C$ for 5 mins. or at 85$^{\circ}C$ for 10 mins. By treating the concentrated solution of LiBr the silk yarn showed about 40 percent of shrinkage on a conditions of S. G. 1.38, $25^{\circ}C$ 24hrs. The physical properties of salt-treated silk yarn could be significantly changed with shrinkage variations. There were some differences in shrinkages between different type of salts. However, it was observed that generally the tenacity was decreased and breaking elongation increased as the shrinkage increased. The bulkiness of salt-treated silk yarn was increased by 110 to 120 percent compared with untreated yarn.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.5
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• pp.437-442
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• 2000

In this paper, in order to examine the torsional behaviour of twisted yarn closely, the torsional rigidity would be derived in terms of physical and mechanical characteristics of its constituent fibers and yarn structural parameters by energy-method. And the propriety of the theory will be discussed by comparing with experimental results. The torsional rigidity of yarn in both experimental and theoretical results decreases with surface helix angle increases. But the experimental values are more higher than those of the theoretical ones.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 2005

In this paper, friction of air-jet textured yams is investigated. Using a friction measuring apparatus fabricated inhouse, dynamic friction forces of the yams under yarn-to-metal (YM) and yam-to-yam (YY) rubbing modes are measured. The influence of processing variables of air-jet texturing viz., overfeed, air pressure, dry/wet texturing and normal/core-and-effect texturing on dynamic friction is analysed. The results indicate that friction force increases with increasing rubbing speeds and yam input tension. YM dynamic friction decreases initially and then starts to increase at higher overfeeds. YY dynamic friction increases with increasing overfeed. YM dynamic friction decreases with an increase in air pressure while an opposite trend is observed for YY friction. Wet textured yams have higher friction than dry textured yams. Core wetted coreand-effect textured yams have higher friction than normal textured yams.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 2011

For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre- and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. This study investigated the effect of types of fabrics(media) as a DTP parameters. Especially, the effects of media properties such as yarn twist and knitted fabric structure, on printability and color difference were examined. Two types of cotton yarn twist(830 and 1630 twist/meter) and five knitted structures of media were prepared with a single circular knitting machine. The K/S values of hard-twist samples were higher than those of normal-twist samples in every media structures. It is more effective to use the knitted fabrics of a hard-twist yarn to obtain dark color in the printing above input level value 60 where the printability improvement was most pronounced in case of plain structure. Among the five media structures a plain structure was the highest and that of corduroy was the lowest in terms of K/S values. Also ${\Delta}E$ values and lightness of the hard-twist yarn samples were smaller than that of normal-twist yarn samples when ${\Delta}E$ values were tested by using a standard of a normal twist yarn sample with a plain structure, which was increased in the case of corduroy structure.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2013

With environmental pollution becoming a serious problem, recently there has been increased interest in the environment and health. In addition, the development of materials for environmentally friendly and functional clothing has increased. Environmentally friendly products that use bark fibers of the mulberry(dak) tree are expressed in terms of dak fiber and Hanji yarn. This research analyzed consumer's perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing. The research results are as follows. Based on analyzing images of Hanji and Hanji yarn, Hanji was categorized into four images that can be described as natural, pure, decorative, and functional, and Hanji yarn infant clothing was categorized into three images that can be described as natural, decorative, and functional. Based on the analysis of well-being elements in subjects' lifestyles, the following four inclinations were found: environmental friendliness, pursuit of novelty, life care, and environmental protection. On this basis, the subjects were categorized into three groups: the trend-pursuing group, the life-care group, and the social responsibility group. Subjects' perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing were investigated, and these products were found to have a strong image of being Korean, traditional, and natural, while being weakly perceived as comfortable, functional, and practical. Analyzing the correlation between images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing and lifestyle groups revealed that these products were not perceived differently according to group. This study showed that Hanji and Hanji yarn are terms that are commonly associated with positive clothing material. However, both Hanji and Hanji yarn are perceived negatively in terms of functional image, which is an important factor in clothing material. In addition, even among consumers who pursue a lifestyle based on well-being, the functional image of Hanji yarn was not perceived highly. Hence, it is necessary to further examine the effect of terms such as Hanji and Hanji yarn on consumer choices. Therefore, caution is considered needed when using such terms in the marketing of related products.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.54-61
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• 1994

The study has been conducted to investigate the relationship between yarn structural parameters such as diameter, twist multiplier and linear density, and mechanical properties of yarns measured by KES-F System. Each mechanical characteristic values per tex have non-linear relationship to the increment of yarn diameter, but as the linear density has increased, the mechanical characteristic values except for the bending characteristics have decreased linearly. It is, however, difficult to analyze obviously on the effects of twist multiplier even though the bending and the shear characteristic values were inclined to decrease. The effect of dyeing has also considered. The results are showing that yarn-dyed samples had higher effects than top-dyed ones on the mechanical characteristics.