• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.9-18
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• 2008

Wool has excellent properties, such as heat retention, absorbency, and elasticity, but it has a disadvantage in washability because the fabric will felt and shrink greatly. Felting causes the interlocking of the fiber surface scales with one another. Therefore, the studies on wool finishing have been focused on shrink proofing. Precedent researches on wool shrink proofing are mostly on eco-friendly method. using enzyme. The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of L-cysteine, EDTA in papain treatment of wool fabrics. The specific contents of study are as follows. Depending on pH, temperature, treatment time, enzyme concentration and L-cysteine, EDTA concentration, weight loss, tensile strength, whiteness, SEM were examined. Each papain treatment conditions depending on L-cysteine, EDTA were optimized from these properties. Papain had very low activation without activators. The optimum conditions of papain treatment were pH 7.5, temperature $75^{\circ}C$, time 30minutes(L-cysteine), 180minutes(EDTA) and papain concentration 5%(o.w.f.). In the use of papain 5%(o.w.f.), the activators optimum concentration was L-cysteine 2%(o.w.f.), EDTA 7%(o.w.f.)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.882-893
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• 2013

This study provides an efficient marketing strategy for the cosmetic market by analyzing the effect of consumer desire on buying motive, brand satisfaction, brand attachment, and brand loyalty. The research conducted a survey using convenience sampling for adult women (from 20 years to 60 years) who purchased cosmetic items within 6 months. A total of 463 samples were used for the final analysis. Data analysis consisted of descriptive statistics, Cronbach's alpha, a confirmatory factor analysis, and a structural equation modeling analysis. Customer cosmetic consumption need had six factors: exhibition need, safety need, need to look younger and to pursue beauty, need to go along with others, eco-friendly need, and pleasure need. The buying motive had four factors: others-oriented motive, motive to keep skin healthy, economic motive, and motive to change products. The causality model showed that customer consumption need influenced buying motive, brand satisfaction, brand attachment, and brand loyalty. There were also significant effects on buying motive for brand satisfaction, brand attachment, and brand loyalty. In addition, there were indirect effects on the relationship between customer consumption need and brand loyalty. The pursuit for pleasure had a significant indirect effect on brand loyalty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.469-473
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• 2009

Recently, eco-friendly processing has been focused in the textile industry in order to reduce environmental pollutions. Applications of enzyme technology to the textile industry are an example of more environmentally compatible processes. However, there is not enough quantity of referring to denim fabric subjected to enzymatic treatment. In this study, depending on pH, temperature, cellulase concentration, and treatment time, the weight loss of denim fabrics was examined. Characteristics of enzyme-treated fabrics were measured by tearing strength, stiffness, and K/S values. The effect of a non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) on characteristics of the enzyme-treated fabrics was evaluated. The cellulase treatment condition on the cotton fabric were optimized to pH 6.0, $50^{\circ}C$, 1%(o.w.f.), and 60minutes. Characteristics of denim fabrics by cellulase treatment in the presence of Triton X-100 did not improve because Triton-X inhibited the activity of enzyme.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1099-1111
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• 2011

This study identified the types of consumer review information about apparel products based on consumer satisfaction/dissatisfaction with the availability/non-availability of consumer review information for online stores. Data were collected from 318 females aged 20s' to 30s', who had significant experience in reading consumer reviews posted on online stores. Consumer satisfaction/dissatisfaction with availability or non-availability of review information on online stores is different for information in regards to apparel product attributes, product benefits, and store attributes. According to the concept of quality elements suggested by the Kano model, two types of consumer review information were determined: Must-have information (product attribute information about size, fabric, color and design of the apparel product; benefit information about washing & care and comport of the apparel product; store attribute information about responsiveness, disclosure, delivery and after service of the store) and attracting information (attribute information about price comparison; benefit information about coordination with other items, fashionability, price discounts, value for price, reaction from others, emotion experienced during transaction, symbolic features for status, health functionality, and eco-friendly feature; store attribute information about return/refund, damage compensation and reputation/credibility of online store and interactive and dynamic nature of reviews among customers). There were significant differences between the high and low involvement groups in their perceptions of consumer review information.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1-6
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• 2007

Opuntia Ficus has been an epiphyte plant since it was introduced in Cheju island as an ornamental plant two hundred years ago. And now it is grown as many as it is designated to local souvenir No.35. The fruit of this plant contains red-purple sap, which is due to be used in coloring clothes. This study aims at confirmation of use possibility as eco-friendly dyeing stuffs on extract from opuntia ficus fruits and contributing to the practical use of natural dyeing. Thus this study was investigated the dyeability of extract from opuntia ficus fruits on the silk fabric. Antioxidants were used ascorbic acid, L-cysteine, prophyl gallete. After dyeing, K/S and dye fastness were measured. The results were as follows; Maximum absorption band of extract from opuntia ficus fruits was 534.5nm. The appropriate dyeing condition was bath ratio 50:1, dyeing temperature $30^{\circ}C$, dyeing concentration 50%, dyeing time 50min, pH 3,concentration of all antioxidants 3%. Addition of antioxidants brought increase of K/S value. And K/S value and dye fastness had the greatest value when ascorbic acid was added

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1362-1376
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the perceptions of textures and sensible images of consumers and present basic data for textile designing by analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements and preferences. A total of 12 kinds of knit fabrics were prepared and investigated in terms of the differences in the subjective, mechanical properties and objective hand measurements according to the structural properties of knit fabrics. The data were analyzed by t-test. The subjective hand attributes of wool knits through factor analysis are categorized into 6 factors. In particular, the 'active/comfort' factor is a meaningful result that reflects the unique characteristics of knit fabrics compared to woven fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective hand measurements have a greater effect on textures than on sensible images; in addition, the structural properties, 'gauge' was the most important factor to influence the subjective evaluation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.136-154
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• 2021

'Slow fashion' has become a hot issue in the fashion world as fast fashion has caused environmental and ethical problems. This study synthesized the characteristics of slow fashion from preceding studies and organized them into four characteristics (craftsmanship, nature-friendly attitude, localism, and pursuit of exclusive value). This study compared designers, John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small with four characteristics. First, both designers sought craftsmanship based on tailoring, but Skelton focused on the eco-friendliness of materials, and Small emphasized the development of high-quality fabrics. Second, we found a nature-friendly attitude in both designers, but unlike Skelton, which maintains nature-friendliness in the process of clothing production, Small showed this characteristic through presentations. Third, both designers revealed localism through their affection for the fabrics and culture of each country. Moreover, Small extended its meaning to respect minority tastes. Finally, both designers pursued exclusive values through collections under the themes of class problem, and gender conflicts. However, Skelton melted these topics into British culture and revealed them indirectly versus Small who showed sensitive topics directly in the collections. This study will provide the foundation for analyzing designers through the characteristics of slow fashion, and suggests directions that slow fashion designers should move towards.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.49-61
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to develop an educational program designed to allow students to experience 'up-cycling' first-hand during class and understand its significance by helping them improving their practical problem-solving abilities. Teachers of home economics, Korean, and social studies to third grade middle schooler were asked to analyze the curriculums of their subjects. The analysis results were then used to identify common elements among the units, reconstruct the curriculums, and develop an integrated lesson program to offer integrated activities. Based on these, a lesson program was developed to make an eco-bag and running shoes under the theme of 'up-cycling' in the unit of 'environmentally-friendly clothing and mending of clothes' in the home economics subject. The results were as follows: First, a topical fusion lesson program was developed to integrate three subjects together. The development process involved the integration of the topic of up-cycling, a program model for integrated lessons, and a teaching and learning process plan for topical integrated education. Secondly, a lesson program for home economics was developed that was applicable to actual home economics lessons based on the topical integrated lesson program. The lesson domains were divided into large, medium, and small to create a ten-lesson teaching and learning process plan needed for the lessons, teaching materials that could be put to actual uses in lessons, and activity and evaluation logs for learners.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.153-163
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• 2019

This study is designed to present a direction for the development of an up-cycling design applied with Hangeul calligraphy on outdated clothing materials, and recreating them as eco-friendly high value-added cultural products. The results of this study are as follows. First, Hangeul calligraphy enhances creativity and scarcity by expressing an unformatted analog sensibility in the digital era and further emphasizes the differentiated high value-added aspect of the products. Second, the characteristics of the up-cycling design products represent eco-friendliness, handcrafting, non-fabrication, originality, scarcity, storytelling, and customization. Third, the author made 11 up-cycling cultural products using Hangeul calligraphy, applying it to discarded jeans and pieces of cloth. Fourth, the phases of making cultural products are divided into planning and production. In the planning phase, items and materials are decided upon, design sketches are made, and in the production phase the items go through partial dismantlement, separation, reconstruction, collaboration, and the application of calligraphy printing. Along with the beautiful and lyrical sensibility of Hangul, it was shown that up-cycling using Hangeul calligraphy, which has excellent originality and practicality of design, can be expanded to a variety of cultural products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1121-1127
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• 2009

This study presents an eco-friendly and one-step finishing method for modifying fiber property that reduces fiber damage in wool/polyester blend fabrics. Lipase from aspergillus oryzae is used in this experiment. The enzymatic treatment condition is optimized by measuring the relative activity of lipase depending on pH level, temperature, concentration of lipase, and treatment time. The concentration of $CaCl_2$as an activator is determined by the characteristics including whiteness, water contact angle (WCA), and dyeing property. The modified properties of lipase treated fabrics are tested for pill resistance and surface morphology. The results are described as follows: the optimum condions for lipase treatment constitute a pH level of 8.0, treatment temperature of 40$^{\circ}$$_C$, concentration of lipase at 100% (o.w.f), and a treatment time of 90 minutes. $CaCl_2$helps in raising lipase activation, and the optimum concentration is 50mM. The whiteness, wet ability, and pill resistance of lipase treated fabrics improves as compared to the control. The dyeing property of lipase treated fabrics improved by 53.5% after using the one-bath dyeing method. This means that lipase treatment can save time and cost during the dyeing process since lipase treatment modifies wool and polyester fibers. The surface of lipase treated wool fibers do not exhibit any change, however voids and cracks manifest on the surface of lipase treated polyester fibers.