• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.891-909
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examines the changes in Chinese women's clothing resulted from the introduction of Western culture in the first hal# of the 20th century in terms of Chinese view of the world and their attitude towards European culture. The clothes are divided into four types according to their characteristics : traditional Chinese type, China-Europe adjustment type, China-Europe blend type and European type. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined. The traditional Chinese type showed changes only in the width and length retaining the features of the traditional qipao until the 1910s. The China-Europe adjustment type used the same flat pattern making of traditional Chinese dress while imitating only the appearances of European one-piece, two-piece and three-piece dresses. It also was presented with European accessaries and hair-styles. The China-Europe blend type, starting to appear with the introduction of the three-dimensional pattern making from the Europe in the 1930s, showed a perfect mixture of European and traditional Chinese costumes in the early 1940s when the Chinese learned and adapted the European pattern making. The European type was the most modernized designs using a variety of European-style details and constructions as the traditional clothing started to have unrestricted European-style changes. Great significance can be found in the fact that the Chinese modified their garments by themselves using the pattern mating they learned from the Europe.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2009

In contemporary art, soft materials are used in various forms and ways as a medium expressing contingency beyond a simple nature of materials. In the late 1960's, the appearance of soft sculpture as a refusal of the stereotyped 'Erection' characteristic of traditional sculpture served as an opportunity for more attention to soft materials. Fashion is the reflection of age, and the mirror of society, culture and arts. In other words, soft sculpture and fashion are artistic behaviors in the same context, which have neither been fixed nor erected. This study finds its significance in analyzing correlation between soft sculpture and fashion, and the importance of contingency as artistic expression means in this age when boundaries between genres are obscure, and artistic values are given to fashion. By doing so, it aims to present the direction toward which fashion should face in the future, establishing a new aesthetic consciousness with which more creative and various expressions are available in fashion as well. This study presented as its theoretical background the concept of soft sculpture affected by Marcel Duchamp among representative examples of the contingency that started to appear in art starting in the early 20th century. It also analyzed the soft sculpture appeared in 1960s and the expression methods and features of contingency appeared in fashion after late 1990s through a new approach of piling up, hanging up, and tying, three categories classified by Maurice $Fr{\acute{e}}churet$. Common features of the contingency expressed in soft sculpture and fashion were derived in the analysis, which are intensive effects of energy, values given to physical properties themselves, and esthetics of anti-form.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.172-183
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• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to define women's classic tailored suits surviving, despite current millennial impulses tend toward disintegration in style. Through documentary study, the reason which women had chosen the mannish tailored suits instead of sumptuous dresses in the 20th century beginnings is considered carefully. Also, examining the process of transition of women's classic suits makes it possible to infer the aesthetic characteristics of them. According to study, women had began to wear tailored suits acquiring physical comfort and the equality of the sexes. In the early stage, women imitated men's tailored suits in order to show seriousness, intelligent, capability for social success. However, in accordance with the advance of women's social position women modified it to suits themselves to present intrinsic feminity as well as masculine values. By staying the basic form, classic tailored suits have undergone constant internal changes in relation to sexuality. The aesthetic properties of women's classic tailored suits can be inferred as moderation, dualism, and versatility. In conclusion, the credibility with own authority and the evolutionary character inhering in the classic tailored suits could explain the continuity of them.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.212-222
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• 2000

This study intends to observe how the essential elements of art have changed Human's sense of beauty extending over the whole lives as well as fashion through the investigation of Light and Rays which have played a important role in giving birthe to the new trend of art within the upheaval age of various cultures. The peculiarities of which Futurism of Italy and Rayonism of Russia including Impressionism have a great role in giving birth to a new trend of art by means of the development of science technology are like these. Impressionists looked for the origin of the subtle harmony in nature within changes of sun-rays. The special feature of Impressionism paintings was to express the line of vision diversely according to changes of light rather than to focus on the line of vision with clear outlines. Henceforth, Neo-Impressionism which developed Impressionism more systematically leaded changes of Light and Rays more systematically and scientifically and maintained Divisionnisme techniques which extends to lead towards color and light through dividing and juxtaposing color. In the early 20th century Futurists tried to express dynamism through the interpenetration of light and revive color and light through the division techniques of color and persist an artificial light like eletricity rather than a natural light. Rayonism of Russia which was ifluenced from Impressionism and Futurism maintained intersection of reflecting rays which emerges from an object of things more deeply. This pursuit of light and rays also light and rays also appears as it is in modern fashion. First, it is the fashion which applied sun-rays persisted by Impressionists and expressed colors which show differently according to direction of light. Second, it is the fashion design which re-analyzed what Futurists expressed artificial light and rays. Third, it is the design which expressed Divisionnisme theory persisted by Impressionists and Futurists into fashion as it is and was made of being divided the form of glittering light into small dots. Fourth, it is the fashion design which applied Rayonists'work which applied intersection of reflected rays. Like this, it is aproved that the pursuit of light and rays expresses as it is in modern fashion of the 21st.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.675-683
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to analyze the changes in formal attires and decorative features of middle age Korean women during the last half of 20th century and to find out any significant differences in formal attires according to periods. The study was a documentary research, and data were collected from 344 family wedding photographs by convenient sampling. The statistics used were content analysis, frequency and a time series analysis, and the results were as follows : 1. Four schematic clusters of formal attires were categorized according to skirt(chima) length and width, jacket(jogori) length, motifs and decorative features; simple classic, decorative classic, fashionable, and extravagant fashionable. Simple classic attires were popular until 1960s, the decorative classics were appeared from late 1960s to 1970s, fashionable attires were introduced from the late 1970s and the attires became more luxurious and extravagant until 2000. 2. Color symbolism in couples mothers'attires according to the couples gender - pink or red for the bride's mother and blue or green for groom's mother - was introduced from the late 1970s, and reached the maximum level by the early 1980s but slowly disappeared after the late 1980s. 3. The complete fashion cycle did not exist in the formal attires'change, however, since the Period of data were ranged from 1943 to 2000, the 57 years period may not long enough to measure a complete fashion cycle.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.61-78
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• 2016

This study through the literature research to understand the most representative art trend - the definition and evolution of the Cubism in the early 20th century, and through the analysis on the representative painter's works, such as works of Pablo Ruiz Picasso and Georges Braque, This article raises the unique characteristics of the Cubist painting, such as geometry modeling, simultaneity, transparency, collage, deconstruction and reconstruction, etc. On the basis of theoretical research in this study, in order to meet the novelty and originality of clothing design requirements in the field, this research uses the modeling characteristics of the Cubist painting, designs and makes five sets of works in costume designing. Research findings are as follows, 1) According to the geometry modeling, split garment surface into triangle or irregular polygon shaped. 2) Show front and side images of the characters in the same garment surface. 3) Overlapping the images of the characters in the same garment surface. 4) Make use of composite materials to express the characters. 5) Disassemble the characters recombine them in an abstract painting way. These works mainly completed by adopting some techniques like Patchwork and Figurative painting. The colors consist of red, yellow and blue caused "Three primary colors series" to achieve the goal of expanding visual effect. Additionally, for the sake of the formal beauty-deformation distortion, symmetric and asymmetric, for instance the structure of the costume adopts formal beauty technique.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1427-1438
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• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.