• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
• /
• no.19
• /
• pp.281-315
• /
• 2009

Korean traditional music has been a process art which has been changed and re-created by musicians to mirror the musical aesthetics of contemporary people. Form court music, which has tried to keep the "authentic" form as much as possible, to folk music, which is closely associated to the people's life style, traditional music has expressed the life of the Korean people. From the early 20th century, traditional music faced a totally new music culture due to the Japanese annexation and rapid westernization. A new music network was established by modern theater and broadcast system. Many gayageum (12-stringed zither) masters were able to develop their own music in this new music culture. Female musicians came to exist because of a new music education system, called gwonbeon (school for female entertainers). Due to the rapid westernization, traditional music was becoming 'extinct'. The government's new system of Intangible Cultural Heritage tried to preserve traditional culture. Traditional music came to revive but became fossilized in order to preserve the 'archetype'. The so-called Living Human Treasures took power and became a social problem. The modern school education system was one of major factors for promotion of traditional music. However, it became one of main reasons for musicians to lose their musical creativity. Today, many performers and composers try to make a new composition and renovated musical instruments to suit the contemporary musical aesthetics.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.13
• /
• pp.165-172
• /
• 1996

The National College of Art. Craft and Design of Sweden founded in 1811 is one of the oldest schools in the world and has taken very important role in the development of Scandinavian design This college usually called "Konstfack" in Sweden was transformed under the influence of Bauhaus into a modern design institute and the experiment:li curriculum and its unique teaching system was completed in the middle of 70' s The phrase "Insight och Flit" in the emblem of this school shows the Konslfack spirit which stresses the creative insight and endless diligence Korea is much different from Sweden in cultural aspects as well as in political and economic ones. In the later half of 19th century Sweden was one of the undeveloped countries in Europe and she just entered the Industrial Hevolution. Swedish culture at the time was also the barbarian one in comparison with English and Frech cultures. Even she had the difficulty in founding her own cultural identity So the Swedish intellectuals in early 20th century tried to find out "What is Swedish\ulcorner" and as the result they produced the Swedish Modern Movement style in 1950's. In this process Konstfack as well as the Swedish Society of Crafts and Design and the Svensk Form. the design magazine. has played the leading role. To look over the history and educational system of this school will be helpful for our design education. will be helpful for our design education.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.18
• /
• pp.291-306
• /
• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.407-423
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.61-78
• /
• 2016

This study through the literature research to understand the most representative art trend - the definition and evolution of the Cubism in the early 20th century, and through the analysis on the representative painter's works, such as works of Pablo Ruiz Picasso and Georges Braque, This article raises the unique characteristics of the Cubist painting, such as geometry modeling, simultaneity, transparency, collage, deconstruction and reconstruction, etc. On the basis of theoretical research in this study, in order to meet the novelty and originality of clothing design requirements in the field, this research uses the modeling characteristics of the Cubist painting, designs and makes five sets of works in costume designing. Research findings are as follows, 1) According to the geometry modeling, split garment surface into triangle or irregular polygon shaped. 2) Show front and side images of the characters in the same garment surface. 3) Overlapping the images of the characters in the same garment surface. 4) Make use of composite materials to express the characters. 5) Disassemble the characters recombine them in an abstract painting way. These works mainly completed by adopting some techniques like Patchwork and Figurative painting. The colors consist of red, yellow and blue caused "Three primary colors series" to achieve the goal of expanding visual effect. Additionally, for the sake of the formal beauty-deformation distortion, symmetric and asymmetric, for instance the structure of the costume adopts formal beauty technique.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.24 no.1
• /
• pp.29-40
• /
• 2015

This study is on historiography of Modern Architecture since its beginning to present. As a critical review of the history of the writing history of Modern Architecture, this study tends to be a meta-history and criticism of historical text. This study try to analyse historiographical project of Modern architecture at specific phase since the beginning of modern architecture. The historiography of Modern architecture shows that writing a history is making a discourse of Modern architecture as a imaginative representation to define and justify Modernism in architecture. The analysis of canonic text since early 20th century proves that the history of writing history of Modern architecture played a critical role not only to shape of our ideal but the practice of architecture with a ideology construction in retrospect. With a name of truth or morality they made myths about the modernity in architecture. So we can find deep 'Hagelean Unconscious' in writing history of Modern architecture not even the first generation of historians but the second generation who were influenced by earlier writer in spite of their intention of revision and overcoming, which is in itself the key concept of Hegel's philosophy of History. Under this kind of 'operative' discourse our view point of Modern architecture were confined and the historiography of Modern architecture itself was narrowly defined as a kind of melodrama that a few architect and work of art matters. The rise of critical history fundamentally has changed the way of seeing and writing the history of Modern architecture. but it has also a new kind of dilemma as regard to writing history and involving practice. This review of historiography traces the texts of historians as like Pevsner, Giedion, Banham, Rowe, Tafuri, Frampton, and Curtis relating to different discours making. When we consider Benjamin's famous concept of constellation, writing history necessarily is a kind of montage making in time and we always need to recognize the historicity of historiography.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.42 no.4
• /
• pp.152-171
• /
• 2009

The Dancheong(丹靑) of the main building of Mihwangsa Buddhist Temple(美黃寺) in Haenam(海南) is the leading work of the Jeolla Dancheong style, which was created in the 18th century and has been passed down to the early modern days, and boasts its excellence and originality. On the outside, one can only see the traces of the Dancheong due to the colors that fell off and deteriorated severely. On the inside, however, the general Dancheong pattern is accompanied by the painting of 1,000 Buddhas(千佛圖), which is hardly found in other Buddhist temples, and the Arahan painting, which is truly magnificent in technique and can pass as an independent painting. The Dancheong also has unique methodological characteristics that can't be found in other Dancheong works such as the painting and attaching technique. The Dancheong inside is estimated to have been created in 1754 considering the records of "Dalmasan Mihwangsasa Daebeopdang Jungsusangryangmun(達摩山美黃寺大法堂重修上樑文)", the calligraphical writings of "Mudeungsanindanhwakya(無等山人丹?也)"and "Geonryungshipgu(乾隆十九)" left in the Jungryang, and the style characteristics reflected in the Dancheong patterns and the painting of 1,000 Buddhas. The fact that there are no traces of re-Dancheong also supports the estimation that the Dancheong was created in the absolute age of 1754. The absolute age will be the reference of deciding the chronological years of Dancheong patterns and be helpful in examining the characteristics and changes by the periods. There were certain style characteristics in Dancheong by the periods and regions. The Dancheong of Jeolla region also had its own style, which includes the tendency of finishing with two- or three-fold green belts without giving meokdanggi to the meoricho and the huge jar decoration of huigol. Treating the baetbadak of all materials, whether it's Geumdancheong or morodancheong, with lines of certain thickness and colors is another style of Jeolla Dancheong from the 18th to the 20th century. The Dancheong of the Geukrakbojeon(極樂寶殿) of Cheoneunsa Buddhist Temple and Daewoongbojeon(大雄寶殿) of Naesosa Buddhist Temple in Jeolla is especially noteworthy in that it bears similar patterns and techniques to that of the main building of Mihwangsa Buddhist Temple in addition to the characteristics mentioned above. The Dancheong of Mihwangsa Buddhist Temple must have exerted so great influences on that of the two temples that it's called "the style of Mihwangsa Buddhist Temple."When adopting a broader point of view, it can be classified as one of the Dancheong styles of Jeolla. The common icons and techniques found in the Dancheong of Mihwangsa, Cheoneunsa, and Naesosa Buddhist Temple provide some clues about the influential relationships among painters of the days. They may have been created by the painters of the same school or the painters affected by those who created the Dancheong of Mihwangsa Buddhist Temple.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
• /
• v.40
• /
• pp.239-264
• /
• 2015

In the early 20th century, Japan built theaters to take possession of colonial culture while establishing the Imperial University, libraries, and museums to accumulate and spread the knowledge of "imperial" Japan. Many different genres made a hit in theaters including theatrical troupes, theatrical companies, and motion pictures. One of the various features of expositions was "spectacles" or unusual events. They were integrated with a national festival in celebration of "5th anniversary of political commencement." In 1915, the longest hit series in Keijo (Seoul) was the dance performance by professional Japanese beauties and entertainers, whose songs delivered the legitimacy of governance. This study focused on the performance in the space of "cultural" spread called theaters, thus examining the "imperial" cultural waves they were in charge of. The study also focused on the tensional relations of Hierarchie along those cultural borders. The performance at the theater Engeikan(演芸館) in 1915 was especially an epoch-making event in the Japanese theatrical community of Keijo (Seoul): first, it marked the emergence of large-scale performance hall called Engeikan(演芸館); secondly, the performance kept its ongoing, stable streak for about 50 days; and it led to the appearance of leading troupes including Geijutuza(芸術座), which put on a show in Keijo (Seoul) in November, 1915. The study examined the issues of theater Engeikan(演芸館) performance in 1915 involving the art company, performance genre, and audience composition, showed that there was the coexistence of entertainment and governance through cultural ruling while securing amusement and entertainment, and found it was accompanied by the organized operation of "Keijo Sponsorship Council（京城協贊會）" which brought together the cultural capabilities of Japanese people living in Joseon. The performance at theater Engeikan(演芸館) in Keijo (Seoul) in 1915 fully reflected the issues involving the tensional relations between different artistic genres, the competing relations between the subjects of performance, and the cultural power.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
• /
• no.37
• /
• pp.249-293
• /
• 2018

The Musical Theatre was a popular art genre that originated from the western musical tradition represented by the European opera. In the twentieth century, it bloomed around Broadway in the United States. It is also one of the commercial arts which is popularly loved by the public in the field of performing arts all over the world at present. Due to the nature of this genre, the development of dramas and the expression of characters use music, not words or gestures, as the main medium. And the style of music reacts sensitively to the taste of the public, not to a particular class. When Japan colonized Korea, the empire strongly believed modernization equaled westernization and Japan was the one who could awaken Korean. The Japanese colonial music education was intended to bring cooperation and obedience to Japan by forcibly injecting Japanese ideology and culture into Joseon people. The music education of colonialism with the textbook of the "Songs for public education(보통교육 창가집)" compiled by the Japanese government was a sparkstone for the conversion of the Korean musical identity to Japanese and Western music. In addition to the capitalistic economical mechanism for establishing a South Korean government friendly with the United States during the Cold War after liberation, and the rush of American Pop culture represented by 'the show stage in 8th US Arm' and 'movies' which are to be the influence of invisible 'new cultural imperialism', our traditional music was confined to the meaning of 'Korean music', meaning 'past music'. In Korea, after the liberation, the musical was introduced by the influx of American popular culture. In accordance with the cultural policy of Park Jeong-hee regime, which aimed to spread the 'healthy culture' through the modernization of traditional arts, 'The Yegreen(예그린악단)' was founded. However, the plan to create a contemporary performing art based on Korean national arts showed the possibility of success in 1966 with the success of , but soon after, they have been destined to fall into an institution that has lost their ability to operate on their own due to the suspension of the sponsorship of the regime. Due to the cultural imperialist strategy of the influence of Japanese imperialism's colonial music education and influx of American popular culture after liberation, in the early days of Korean musicals, our traditional aesthetic style brought about the situation of the 1960 's, which did not become an independent ethnic art through the exchange and expansion with Western music. This is the background of the western licensed musicals led by the Korean musical market in the 21st century as well as the main cause of musical creation based on western music.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.36
• /
• pp.219-238
• /
• 1998

For the purpose of this Study, the situation of Korean costume properties in the collection of overseas museums was investigated through correspondence, interviews with their curators and persons in charge and survey. As results were made about the situation of museum science (conservation) and practical utilization of costume properties. So, the study result were drawn as follows : Krean costume properties unexplaind of 'Korean cultural Properties' could be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York(135 pieces), the Brooklyn Museum of New York(20 pieces), the Newark Museum of New Jersey(15 pieces), and the Victoria Albert Museum of London(100 pieces). Korean costume properties in the collection of over-seas museums mostly fall under the rang of period between the 19th century and the early 20th century and are classified into everyday clothing, wedding costume and armors for the most part. In 1900s, museum in several countries began to collected Korean cultural properties through foreign missionaries or diplomats as well as merchants or travellers in who bought Korean objects. Recently, scholars, traditional Korean costume designerss and diplomatic and consular offices in overseas have donated our Korean costume to many foreign museums. Korean costume properties were largely on display in the dependent display of folklore museums or in a part of exhibition gallery for Asian culture and there were the separate exhibition rooms in museums in the United Kingdom, Germany, Denmark, Austria, Japan and the United States America. But the size and level of display room for Korean cultural properties is one third as large as that for chinese or Japanese cultual properties. It was found in this study that the traditional Korean costume in the collection of overseas museums was largely recorded only as general items rather than given their proper names. The typical example of misnaming included bridal's Kimono for Wonsam(원삼) in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Yeonroksaek-bumunsajeokori for Dangeui(당의) and Jissan-gryongwonmunsadurumagi for Kongdali(동달이) in the Okura collection of the Tokyo National Museum, and so on. And the Victoria Albert Museum modified the way of wearing Daenim(대님) and the National Museum of Ethnology in Osaka seemed to misplace the ornament of Keanggi(댕기) on Mubok(무복) and Josunjuk(조선족: Chinese-Korean) Museum also misplace hansam(한삼). On the one hand, the Newark museum of New Jersey mixed Chinese armor with the Korean one and the Photohraph of King Kojong(고종) with Chinese one. It is corrected to publish and disseminate the book concering Korean costume in order to inform foreign museums of thed proper names and wearing method of our traditional costumed. The repair of costume before cleaning in the process of conservation treatment can prevent damage likely to occur as the properties of fiber itself are weakened in liquid. It is recommended that western 8-figure stitch and tacking stitch is added to Korean traditional stitching method. Museums in the U.S.A and the U.K are concerned about the aftermath of cleaning it-self, specially conservation treatment may exert on remains and predominantly use the vacuuming method to remove dust or bits of straw before the exhibition beings. But in case of Korea, the dry cleaning and wet cleaning method are used according to the nature and state of a sample costume. This comprehensive cleaning method is gradually developing scientifically but it is expected that those concerned will make a chemical analysis of the solvent to be used and also the more precise test of costume properties will be conducted before cleaning them. A partial study was made here because the scope of study was too broad and vast. It is expected that more studies will be conducted concerning our costume culture under the long-term plan and active support at the government level.