• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.55-65
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• 2010

The present study purposed to compare formative expression between the fashion of the end of 19th century - early 20th century and that of the 21st century which were influenced by art nouveau and art deco. For this purpose, we analyzed contents in literature, Internet, etc.,. According to the results of this study, the formative expression of art nouveau were divided into continuous movement, optical illusion and decorative expression. Continuous movement was used to express fancy and soft images in the end of 19th century, and to express images giving the feeling of speed and tension in the 21st century. Optical illusion was expressed by the movement the thin and soft materials with the body movement and the movement of excessive frills adornment. And in movement produced using thin and soft materials and by the bias cutting method in the 21st century. Decorative expression was expressed as fantasy and decadent image in the end of 19th century and as mild passionate and modern image with color combination in the 21st century. The formative expression of art deco were divided into visual simplicity, contrastive loudness, and functional expression. Visual simplicity was expressed as a boyish image in the early of 20th century, but as a complex expression combining simplicity and femininity in the 21st century. Contrastive loudness was expressed by using colors both in the early of 20th century and 21st century. Functional expression was reinforced through the lightening of design and materials in the early of 20th century, but through using bias cutting high tech materials in the 21st century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.793-805
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• 2018

At the beginning of the $20^{th}$ century, Cartier developed Art Deco jewelry designs that have been used as design inspirations to this day. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of the Art Deco jewelry designs of Cartier in the early $20^{th}$ century. Regarding the research method, this study explored the jewelry designs from 1904 to 1939 by extracting 288 analysis subjects from Cartier's exhibitions, auction picture books, and foreign books, and analyzed the characteristics in terms of design motifs, colors and materials. The results of the study are as follows. Regarding the design motifs, 73% were geometric motifs, and 66% were a combination of circular shapes and polygons, the most frequent. In terms of colors, 69% were chromatic in color, and vivid colors were mostly used in the order of red (24%), - green (19%), and - blue (14%). Of the materials, 92% of the metals consisted of platinum, and gemstones were used in the order of diamonds (41%), - onyx (13%), - emeralds (11%), - rubies (9%), and - sapphires (8%). In the early $20^{th}$ century, Cartier's Art Deco jewelry designs featured abstract and geometric motifs, vivid colors and strong contrasts, platinum and precious gemstones. This study is meaningful in that it explores the competitiveness of Cartier's designs and provides practical ideas to combine Art Deco style with contemporary jewelry designs successfully.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.111-126
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• 2001

This study concentrates on the relationship between the early 20th century italian artists and their works in the field of clothing design. They advocated the creation of art for life and introduced a new type of work of art which I will call 'experimental clothing for art'. The experimental clothing for art showed its dynamic characteristics in the field s of line and form, color, pattern, and material. The Italian artists made simple and functionalistic dresses, using asymmetric, geometric cuts. in pattern making. They employed dynamic patterns in textile design and favored brilliant colors which they debunked as storage and traditional. With regard to material, they used unusual materials such as metal, net, wire, and paper and inexpensive materials. To investigations of the visual expression of experimental clothing for art in Italy have led us to the internal expressions which are avant-garde, dynamic & speed, functionality & popularity, ephemeral & transformable, and warlike. As a result of the reflection of the times and the artists's will and roles the experimental clothing for art in Italy implicated contemporary clothing in the early twentieth century and it was only laboratory art that underwent various experiments in canvas but a model of efforts for the at of living, which was anti-traditional. It offered a new future and created a new environment. It is left for future research how the experimental clothing for art developed in countries other than Italian.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.511-522
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• 2001

Various art trends of the 20th century that contributed to the creation and development of abstract art had showed the transition from the convention of mere representation of the object to the formative sensitivity emphasizing self-expression. Noticing that such trends had influenced the fashion industry to move toward a free and individualized style, this study attempts to express the formative way from the existing art to wear, especially, based on early 20th century paintings, 5 casual wears were made which applied korean materials and silhouettes that are functional, sample and show traditional korea beauty. The purpose of this study is to search for a solution to expand the world market by producing dresses utilizing our own tradition that can be distinguished in the global market and that derive inspiration from the formative of the sensitivity of the paintings during the first half of the 20th century. It also aims to let national economy as a high-added industry. The result of this study are as follows: First, the expression method and element of various styles of art such as Fauvism, Expressionism and Cubism, during the period of transition to abstract art, clearly presented the direction toward the artistic liberation and made possible a new formative artistic expression of dress in the early years of the 20th century. Their ideas inspired the dress designers of the time with a reformative and creative sense of fashion and have greatly contributed to the development of a new era of uniqueness and individuality. Second, the color and the simplicity of form of the early 20th century paintings are suitable fro utilizing a motive of functional dresses and express unique and concise modern beauty. Third, it was confirmed that utilizing our tradition in contemporary dress can be a significant method of creation in which the uniqueness and creativity of Korean dress can be expressed, distinguishing it on the global scene, as well as inspire the originality and pride of our culture. Fourth, a possibility has been discovered. It is the functionality and uniqueness of aesthetic expression technique of the contemporary arts that can contribute to the fashion of tomorrow, by searching a modern fashion which was affected by the past and also by taking a look at the trend of modern fashion as the same field as casula wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.25-37
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• 1981

Art Nouveau style refers to the movement of art which was started in France and Belgium in the last decade of the 19th and the early years of the 20th century. The distinguishing characteristics of Art Nouveau style are the sensous sinuosity of its line, nervously undulating, curving over itself, rhythmical, flowing in endless patterns, which are inspired by animals and plants, specially by flowers, leaves, long stalks. The Art Nouveau style includes also the extreme simplicity of form, and asymmetric design. This new trend of art movement spread into architecture, furniture, wall papers, graphic design, accessories and textiles. In this paper, I tried to find out whether or not the Art Nouveau style had an effect on clothing. Because I believe clothing, like architecture, painting, and sculpture, is an Art form that derives from a particular set of cultural circumstances and reflects the needs and aspirations of the society for which it is created. Fashions in clothing over the last five thousand years have mirrorred the art form as well as the spirit. The result of this study shows that the Art Nouveau style made a lasting contribution to the modernism of clothing as well as architecture and interior design at the end of 19th century and the early years of the 20th century. The modernism of clothing appeared in the straight silhouette, asymmetric design, simple and light trimming, embroidery with Art Nouveau pattern, and stylized flower design in textile. Art Nouveau made a great contribution toward the modern clothing to have its liveliness and its harmonious relationship between clothing design and the use of materials.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.328-340
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• 2008

This study examined the characteristics of furniture design in the early Modernism that occurred in the early 20th Century through the relationship with modern arts. The furniture design of the early Modernism was established in the early 20th Century based on the simplicity and honesty of the Art and Crafts Movement and Anti-Historicism in Art Nouveau. During this period, the necessity of mass production became critical due to the radical industrialization and new social demands. In such periodic stream, the furniture design of the early modernism pursued simplicity and geometric beauty based on functionalism. The efforts to discover the fundamental structure of furniture were intensified. It was not limited to furniture design but was also exercised in the huge periodic transformation that progressed in every field of art including architecture. The Modernism art has also been connected to Cubism and spread into an abstract direction. While questioning the potential essence and progressing the study on genuine characteristics, the Modernism art tried to return things into their substantial looks and reorganize them conceptually, rather than reproducing external objects. The furniture that was secondary to a part of architecture and interior accessory transcended its decorative purpose. It pursued the structure to follow its fundamental purpose as furniture. Such tendency corresponded to the direction that Post-Modernism followed. Likewise, both art and design had the revivable and abstract characteristics based on the identical objective in ideology. For this reason, the formative and geometric characteristics of the early modernism furniture design have a mutual relationship with modern arts. Particularly, such tendency intensified and progressed through the Bauhaus in Germany. Based on such facts, this study proved that the early Modernism furniture design in the 20th Century tended to appear in common arts including the art and design according to the social demand of the huge periodic stream. Furthermore, the ideology that was adopted in art and design, as well as its formative characteristics, was examined through the mutual relationship of modern arts and design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.126-156
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze mechanical beauty of the art style represented on the second half of the 20th century fashion. From the early 20th century, when the mechanical civilization began to develop in full scale, various distinctive styles of art began to emerge by the denial of the traditional artistic style, which is said to be an inevitable consequence fo the 20th century's spirit. That is, the diversified styles of modern art, which has developed in line with the rapid growth of civilizations, experienced environmental pollution, non-humanization and un-individualization. Those phenomena became mental anguish for artists and designers, they have come to meet with changes, by their efforts to find new way. SO, the mechanical beauty is becoming a very important factor arts. Especially, the collage of the Cubism have used as art techniques of positive mechanical beauty. And in the transition from Dada to Surrealism, the objects provided an important harmony, suggesting that all things, even those achieved by chance or presented in new associations or radical dissociations, could be said to have meaning. Pop Art that expressed daily living of spending culture in the post industrial society, scaled up the induction of mass media which was much more realistic than Dada or Surrealism. According to the results of this study, the second half of the 20th century fashion has generated mechanical beauty was examined and plundered by modern art styles. The mechanical beauty of modern art was represented in the modern fashion as the positive and negative formativeness. Above all, the best way that the fashion design should take in the future, is in the search of ways how to restore humanity that was lost due to use of machine, how t develop its merits and how to harmonized with mechanical civilization.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.3-10
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• 2008

This study is concerned with the process of development and architectural characteristics of secular stained glass in the 20th century. Stained glass had been architectural art from the origin. But it had declined since the Renaissance era, and began to revive in the early 20th century. Stained glass work is very flourish in Korea today, but it is still treated as simple decoration or 2-dimensional mosaic. Architect and interior designer even have little understanding of architectural character of stained glass. In order to recover the architectural nature of stained glass, I have considered the process of development of secular stained glass in the 20th century, and analysed the works of Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists, Georg Meistermann, Ludwig Schaffrath, Johannes Schreiter, and English artist, Brian Clarke. Major findings of the study are as followings : First, stained glass has come to life again from the secular glass painting decoration in the end of the 19th century, through Art-Nouveau, De Stil, Bauhaus in the beginning of the 20th century, and L'Art $Sacr\acute{e}$. Second, Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists and Brian Clarke have established the architectural concept and potentiality of the modem stained glass in the secular field. Third, They have done by coming back to the basic creative method by traditional lead-came technique in spite of the development of various materials and techniques. Forth, stained glass fundamentally has architectural characteristics as the characters of Space, Time, Place, Context, and they have showed the new possibility of stained glass by recovery of these characters.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.14 no.2 s.49
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• pp.83-94
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• 2005

20th century was the age of Modernism which was based on rational side of human mind. However, with the fall of Modernism, also came the fall of rationalism's dictatorship. Now, we see the pursuit and quest of irrational thinking as a new possibility of human expression which actually was already begun by Dada and Surrealism in early 20th century. It was facilitated by re-evaluation of Freud's psychoanalytic theory at the end of 20th century. This paper researches psychoanalytic approach applied to the analyses of unconscious human desires in art and design, especially its application to contemporary space design. These designs represent, without making any ethical evaluation, the fact that those unconscious desires are part of inborn human nature and the fact that 21st century is heading toward open society which embraces diverse values and possibilities. By analyzing irrational tendencies in contemporary space designs, this paper aims at proving the meaning and value for one of new directions in 21st century space design. First chapter is an introduction. Second chapter studies Freud's psychoanalytic theory. Third chapter examines the psychoanalytic methodologies with which unconscious desires are expressed in art and design. Fourth chapter classifies the types of subconscious desires expressed in contemporary space designs and analyzes their case studies. Fifth chapter is the conclusion.