Fernandes, Joao C.;Tavaria, Freni K.;Fonseca, Susana C.;Ramos, Oscar S.;Pintado, Manuela E.;Malcata, F. Xavier
Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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v.20
no.2
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pp.311-318
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2010
Antimicrobial finishing of textiles has been found to be an economical way to prevent (or treat) skin disorders. Hence, this research effort was aimed at elucidating the relationship between the molecular weight (MW) of chitosan and its antimicrobial activity upon six dermal reference microorganisms, as well as the influence of the interactions with cotton fabrics on said activity. Using 3 chitosans with different MWs, as well as two chitooligosaccharide (COS) mixtures, a relevant antimicrobial effect was observed by 24 h for the six microorganisms tested; it was apparent that the antimicrobial effect is strongly dependent on the type of target microorganism and on the MW of chitosan - being higher for lower MW in the case of E. coli, K. pneumoniae, and P. aeruginosa, and the reverse in the case of both Gram-positive bacteria. Furthermore, a strong antifungal effect was detectable upon C. albicans, resembling the action over Gram-positive bacteria. Interactions with cotton fabric resulted in a loss of COS activity when compared with cultured media, relative to the effect over Gram-negative bacteria. However, no significant differences for the efficacy of all the 5 compounds were observed by 4 h. The three chitosans possessed a higher antimicrobial activity when impregnated onto the fabric, and presented a similar effect on both Gram-positive bacteria and yeast, in either matrix. Pseudomonas aeruginosa showed to be the most resistant microorganism to all five compounds.
This study examined the sound characteristics of Taekwondo uniform fabrics to investigate the relationship between the sound parameters and the mechanical properties of the fabric as well as to provide the conditions to maximize the frictional sound of the uniform. Frictional sounds of 6 fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms were generated by the Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics. The frictional speeds were controlled at low(0.62 m/s), at mid(1.21 m/s) and at high(2.25 m/s) speed, respectively. The frictional sounds were recorded using a Data Recorder and Sound Quality System subsequently, the physical sound properties such as SPL(Sound Pressure Level) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters were calculated. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB. The SPL, Loudness(Z) values increased while Sharpness(Z) value decreased. In the physical sound parameter, specimen E had the highest SPL value at low speed and specimen B at high speed. In case of Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters, the commercially available Taekwondo uniform fabrics(E, F) showed higher values of Loudness(Z), Sharpness(Z), and Roughness(Z), that indicates they can produce louder, shaper and rougher sounds than other fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms. The decisive factors that affected frictional sounds for Taekwondo uniforms were W(weight) as well as EM(elongation at maximum load) at low speed and WC(compressional energy) at high speed.
Safflower red and Amur Cork Tree dyes have used for dyeing on cotton fabrics largely. But they have low degree of lightfastness, So this study investigated the effect of BTCA pre-treatment on lightfastness of cotton fabrics dyed with Safflower red and Amur Cork Tree. The result is as the following; By FT-IR spectra, crosslingking was proved in cotton fabric pre treated with BTCA. K/S value of Safflower red dyed cotton fabric pretreated with BTCA was much more decreased than untreated cotton fabric with BTCA. It showed that the hue of the Safflower red dyed cotton fabric changed from reddish purple to red. However, K/S value of Amur Cork Tree dyed cotton fabric pre treated with BTCA was much more increased than untreated cotton fabric with BTCA. It showed that the hue of the Amur Cork Tree dyed cotton fabric changed from green yellow to yellow. For K/S value of Combination dyed cotton fabric pre treated with BTCA, Safflower red color was much more decreased than untreated cotton fabric. But Amur Cork Tree color was much more increased than untreated cotton fabric. It changed from reddish purple, red, yellowe red, to yellow in hue. ${{\Delta}E^*}_{ab}$ of Combination dyed cotton fabric in 40 hours irradiation was 15.7, however ${{\Delta}E^*}_{ab}$ of Combination dyed cotton fabric treated with 2% BTCA was 8.0, and that treated with 3% BTCA was 9.8. So, pre-treatment with BTCA to combination dyed cotton fabric with Safflower red and Amur Cork Tree showed more effective improvement of Lightfastness than untreated cotton fabric with BTCA.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.21
no.7
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pp.1173-1183
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1997
In order to flatter the figures of average middle aged women by determining harmonious proportions for their costume forms, this study evaluates effects of varying design details of jackets(coats) with blouses and slacks using a ranking test and paired comparisons test. The result from clothing design C-2 which has the best design effect were as follows; 1. In order to look taller, the jacket(coats) is divided vertical long line and it has the emphasis point close to the face. 2. In order to make shoulder width look wider, armhole seam line attached 1-2 cm from the shoulder point. 3. In order to make chest width look slimmer, division was made up of a tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 4. In order to make waist circumference look slimmer, the jacket has more fitted waist line than loosed it and tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 5. In the case of the division of upper and lower garments, when the division was closer to the golden section, i.e., when the jacket hemline is hipline and slacks length is the heel excluded length of shoe heels, the overall appearance was better. 6. The V-neckline looked better, when it was cut along a long acute angle to the waist line. Because of dividing along above factors 1-6 i.e., clothing design C-2 was overall harmonious. Appropriate division of costume forms made for an aesthetic composition, which flattered the body types of middle aged women and presented harmonious, beautiful costume design effects. It made the women look taller, slim and balanced, and highlighted middle aged women's sense of beauty.
Objective: The purpose of this study is to develop an all- in-one collar shirt with excellent appearance which is well suited to the body shape of the male adults. Background: As men's casual wear has recently become more casual and the number of cool biz wearing in the summer has increased, a variety of shirt colors have been preferred in addition to shirt collar. However, studies on the design and pattern development of men's casual shirt collars are very rare. So we have identified the necessity of various development and research of men's shirts. Method: We collected 8 all-in-one collar patterns for shirts from professional pattern books and men's shirt brands. Also, based on anthropometric data from the 6th Size Korea, we selected 5 subjects with measurements similar to the average adult men, manufactured shirts based on them and conducted a wearing test by 5 experts. Results: After selecting shirts with good fit and appearance, we developed a prototype of all-in-one collar. As for front appearance evaluation, E1 pattern had the most outstanding shape and size, and C1 pattern had the most natural creases and front adjustment curves. As for side appearance evaluation, C1 had the highest overall scores, and E1 pattern on outer line. As for back appearance evaluation, C1 pattern had the highest score. Conclusion: We suggested new all-in-one collar and shirt patterns. In addition, the prototype of the all-in-one collar shirt design was presented by reflecting results of the wearing test and preference survey. Application: The shirt's design and patterns could be manufactured using the developed patterns. It will fit well with the body shape of adult males and will be highly satisfied by them.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.27
no.3_4
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pp.364-372
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2003
In this study, the characteristics of catechol tannin and pyrogallol tannin contained in Pteridium aquilinum were analysed by It spectrum. Silk fabrics were dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts using various mordants, and their dyeing properties were discussed. Additionally the fastness the water digestion, perspiration liquid digestion and light irradiation were investigated. IR spectrum of catechol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3417cm^{-1}$, C-H at $2930cm^{-1}$, C=0 at $1722cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1644cm^{-1},\;CH_2\;at\;1402cm^{-1}$. And IR spectrum of pyrogallol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3409cm^{-1}$, C-H at $3003cm^{-1}\;and\;2933cm^{-11}$, C=0 at $1701cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1582cm^{-11},\;CH_2\;at\;1410cm^{-1}$, CO at carboxylic acid and carboxylic acid ester at $1287cm^{-1}\;and\;1135cm^{-1}$. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 270.0nm and 311.5nm. The optimum conditions for dyeing silk fabric with Pteridium aquilinum extracts were $80^{\circ}C$, 60min. Surface color of the silk fabric dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts was 2.7Y Surface color of the pre-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 4.3Y, 2.5Y and 4.7Y, respectively. And Surface color of the post-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 3.7Y, 2.8Y and 0.2GY. The water fastness and the alkaline perspiration fastness were improved in the Al-mordanted silk fabrics. By acidic and alkaline perspiration treatment, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than hat of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics. Also after 40hour irradiation, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.26
no.3_4
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pp.464-472
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2002
The aim of this study was to elucidate dyeability and antimicrobial activity of cotton fabrics dyed with Sophora Radix extracts according to various mordants. Dyes were extracted from Sophora Radix using ethanol. Then, cotton fabrics were dyed with extracts two times by post-mordanting method in which the extract was 60% (owf, the mordant was 3% (owf), L.R was 1:20, the temperature was 60~7$0^{\circ}C$, the time of dyeing was 60min., and the time of mordanting was 60min.. The dyeability was evaluated by surface color and color fastness. The skin microorganism was evaluated on S. sureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis, P. acnes, P. aeruginosa, E. coli, A. niger, C. albicans and T. mentagrophytes. The results are as follows; 1. When mordants were treated, surface color was 3.3Y to 0.1 GY in H (hue) value which indicated greenish yellow to yellow 2. The color fastness to perspiration, dry-cleaning, rubbing, and washing stain fabric showed 4~5 degree. The color fastness to light was improved to 4 degree by treatment of mordants. The color fastness to washing was 2 degree which was somewhat poor. 3. Cotton dyed with ethanol extracts was excellent on S. aureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis and p. antis. But that showed poor antibacterial activities on P. aeruginosa and E. coli such as gram negative baterials 4. Antibacterial activity of cotton fabrics dyed didn't be improved by treatment of mordant 5. Antifungal activity of cotton dyed with ethanol extracts was excellent on T. mentagrophytes. Especially, on T. mentagrophytes there was no growth of fungus during 72 hours in cotton dyed mordanting with SnCl$_2$.$_2$$H_2O$.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.28
no.8
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pp.1175-1185
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2004
This study evaluated thermo-physiological and subjective properties of improved disposable coveralls for railroad carriage maintenance through climatic chamber trials and a filed study. Subjects wore five kinds of disposable coveralls (Type A: a disposable coverall on the market, Type B: a coverall with an improved hood and size-adjustable design, Type C: a coverall with a portable hood, Type D: a coverall with small holes for ventilation, Type E: a sleeveless coverall, Type F: a separated type of coverall with half sleeves) The air temperature in the climatic chamber was set in 9$^{\circ}C$ and 30$^{\circ}C$ For each condition, subjects simulated the railroad work for 120min. and rectal temperature, skin temperatures, clothing microclimate and subjective sensations were measured. The results of chamber trials showed rectal temperature and clothing microclimate did not display significant differences by clothing type. In 30$^{\circ}C$ air temperature, mean skin temperature was higher in Type E and Type F than in Type A(p<0.05) but between the improved coveralls(B-F), we could not find any significant difference. In the case of thermal comfort, the most preferred types were Type B and Type C in 9$^{\circ}C$ and Type F in 30$^{\circ}C$. All subjects felt more comfortable in the improved coveralls than in coveralls of the market (Type A). In field study, workers preferred Type B, Type C and Type F to Type A but the most favorite type differed by the specific type of work. Especially, workers were dissatisfied that Type D tore easily due to lots of small holes around the armpits and Type I did not protect workers' shoulder and arms from oil contamination. According to the climatic chamber trials and field study, the most effective coveralls were Type B and Type C for winter and Type F for summer.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the coloring properties of non-mordant dyes by examining local literature on silk fabric dyeing using red-colored natural dyes. Natural dyes can be prepared from the following 8 materials: purple-fleshed sweet potato, Impatiens balsamina, mulberry, fruits of Ligustrum japonicum Thunb, guava leaves, dansam, hibiscus flowers, and pruned branches of Prunus persica. To examine the surface color calculated $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, ${\Delta}E^*$, and K/S value and H V/C. The variables considered in the dyeing experiment were dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and number of dyeing iterations, which were varied to evaluate the dyeing properties and color characteristics. As a result, the abovementioned variables, dye affinity, and red color expression were directly proportional to one another. In this study, it was found that red coloring can be obtained with natural dyes; moreover, excellent dyeing was achieved without the need for repeated dyeing or mordanting processes, which cause environmental pollution.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.46
no.1
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pp.80-98
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2022
Artificial intelligent chatbot services have recently become common in fashion e-retailing and are expected to improve online shopping by making it easy to recommend products. This study examines whether the perceived quality of a fashion chatbot affects consumers' trust and perception of usefulness, which in turn influences satisfaction and intention to use, in accordance with the information system success model. The study also investigates differences in perceived quality and consumer response variables between high and low groups of self-efficacy. A total of 341 consumers participated in an online survey. The results revealed that information quality and system quality had a significant impact on perceived usefulness and trust, and that service quality significantly impacted trust. Perceived usefulness and trust had a positive effect on consumer satisfaction, which in turn had a positive effect on intention to use. In addition, the findings revealed that people who had higher self-efficacy showed higher scores on perceived usefulness, trust, satisfaction, and intention to use chatbots as compared to people who had lower self-efficacy. This study suggested theoretical implications by applying the information system success model theory to fashion chatbot studies. It also suggested practical implications for e-commerce marketers developing retail strategies.
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