• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2016

Tropical tasar silkworm, Antheraea mylitta is a commercial forest silkworm in India that produces tasar silk, but never experimented in Uttarakhand, a Himalayan state of India. A. mylitta express divergent phenotypic characters under different ecological conditions; so, we studied the effect of seven forest tree species in two rearing seasons on variability in silk gland weight of Daba (bivoltine) ecorace of A. mylitta at Forest Research Institute in Dehra Dun, Uttarakhand during 2012 and 2013. We used two-way completely randomized block factorial design and Post HOC Tukey's HSD test to analyse the collected data and there after carried out multiple regression analysis. Results indicated that silk gland weight differed significantly between rearing seasons (DF=1, F=2333.98, p <0.05), host plants (DF 6, F= 1516.25, p <0.05) and their interactions (DF=6, F=7.10, p <0.05). Higher silk gland weight was found in second rearing season than the first on all the host tree species. Terminalia alata fed A. mylitta larvae showed the highest silk gland weight of 8.03 and 9.47 g in first and second rearing seasons, followed by T. tomentosa (7.19 & 9.01g), T. arjuna (6.8 & 8.08 g) and L. speciosa (6.57 & 7.83 g) fed larvae, respectively. Post HOC Tukey's HSD test indicated that silk gland weight of L. speciosa and T. arjuna fed larvae in both the rearing seasons did not differ significantly. E.I. analysis also confirmed that T. alata, T. tomentosa, T. arjuna and L. speciosa are better in their order of merit than T. bellirica , T. chebula and L. tomentosa. Multiple regression analysis indicates that larval weight gain is a strong predictor (β=1.002, t=346.777, p = <0.05) for the silk gland weight of A. mylitta ; however, larval duration had significant negative regression weight (β=-0.270, t=-8.436, p = <0.05) on mean weight of silk gland.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.531-539
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• 2016

Charcoal dyed fabrics have been widely used in home textiles and functional clothing due to their anti-statics, antibacterial, deodorization, far infrared emitting and anion releasing. Soybean fiber were regenerated from soybean. Soybean fiber have biodegradable, microbiocidal, non-allergic, and anti-ageing properties. The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing characteristics of soybean fabric using charcoal as colorants. Soybean fabrics were dyed with charcoal solution according to concentration of charcoal, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time. To improve washing fastness and investigate mordanting condition, soybean fabric and dyed soybean fabric with charcoal were mordanted by mordanting agents such as $CH_3COOH$(acetic acid), NaCl(sodium chloride) and $AlK(SO_4)_2{\cdot}12H_2O$(Aluminium Potassium Sulfate). Dyeability and color characteristics of charcoal dyed soybean fabric were obtained by computer color matching and SEM morphology analysis. Particle size of charcoal and color fastness were also investigated. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of charcoal was $1.39{\mu}m$. The dyeability of soybean fabric using charcoal as colorants was increased gradually with increasing concentration of charcoal dyeing solution and saturated at about 8%(o.w.b.). The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were $90{\sim}105^{\circ}C$ and 60~90 minutes respectively. The overall wash fastness at dyeing concentration 2~4%(o.w.b.) and 6~10%(o.w.b.) were 4 degree and 3-4 degree respectively. The fastness to washing according to mordanting method indicated good grade result as more than 4 degree in all conditions. On the other hand, the staining of adjacent fabrics, i.e. PET, Acryl, Wool, Acetate, Nylon and Cotton was found to be of grade 4 or 4-5 in all conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.474-485
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the determinants and elements to enhance Korean international competitiveness, employing Porter's(1998) Diamond Model. Half of the 500 leading apparel exporters that were members of the Korea Apparel Industry Association in 2003 were selected as the target of this research. From May to June of 2003, survey questionnaires were sent to executives of these 250 companies in person or by telephone, e-mail, or fax. Seventy questionnaires were used for the final data anlysis. The items used were Reliability, Categorical Regression, and Frequency, using SPSS 11.5. The results were as follows: First, as a result of analyzing the influence of international competitiveness in Korean apparel industry, the firm's strategy, structure, and rivalry was the most influential factor. Others were related and supporting industries, government, chance, demand conditions, and factor conditions. Also, the elements that affect Korean international competitiveness were listed as the level of price competition in foreign markets, the level of labor cost, export marketing capacity, and exchange fluctuation. The most important element to improve the international competitiveness of the Korean apparel industry was a demand growth rate of the overseas markets(Demand Conditions), followed by the level of the labor costs(Factor Conditions), the capability of internationalization(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry), the change of currency(Chance), the quality and management of products(Demand Conditions), the capability of planning products(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry), free trade from 2005(Chance), and global sourcing strategy(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry). Korea's main rival country in apparel related and supporting industry factors is China. However, Korea has a higher level of technology development, quality, and price level than China.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.648-655
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• 2017

This study measured dyeing properties under different dyeing conditions and levels of antimicrobial activity when man-made fibers are dyed with gallnut, including rayon, tencel, tencel blended fabric, soybean fiber, and nylon non-mordanted. The dye up-take (K/S), color ($L^*a^*b^*$), and color differences (${\Delta}E$) were measured with a colorimeter, and the number of bacteria present in the dyed fabrics were determined using Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia as strains. The results are as follows: First, the optimal dyeing conditions for man-made fibers dyed with gallnut are 60 minutes of dyeing time and a $80^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature. Second, gallnut dye is most effective on soybean fiber and then, in descending order of effectiveness, on nylon, rayon, tencel, and tencel blended fabric. This means that dyeing properties of nitrogen containing fibers are excellent when using gallnut. Third, all man-made fibers are dyed brown with gallnut. This implies dyeing possibility of man-made fibers about gallnut dye, so development and supply of natural dyed goods of man-made fibers can be increased. Fourth, in all man-made fibers dyed with gallnut extract, both Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia show 99.9% reduction ratios of fungistasis, which indicate antimicrobial activity. Therefore, safe, functional, man-made materials can be developed to relieve symptoms from and treat patients with skin ailments.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.945-958
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• 2009

This study is to examine the factors affecting success of business withhigh accomplishments in customer recognition and financial aspect in the fashion industry. In addition, through survey on consumers and interviews on industry officials who concerned fashion brand, perceived success factors were compared between consumer and industry groups. This study selected a total of 20 brands, which were 5 brands per 4 categories(e.g., women, men, sports and casual wear), with high customer satisfaction and customer loyalty in consumer's perspective and high revenues, revenue growth, and profit rate in 2004 in a financial perspective. The survey on consumer group and interviews on officials in industry were conducted simultaneously. One thousand respondents were obtained from survey on consumers and 40 respondents were obtained from interviews on industry officials. Multiple regression analysis and t-test were used for data analysis via the SPSS 12.0 program. The result of this study was as following. From a consumer perspective, respondents recognized that both consumer satisfaction and brand revenues were positively related to brand factors of consumer, product and marketing. From an industry's perspective, consumer, product and marketing factors affected consumer satisfaction as a brand success factor. In comparison of perception difference in brand success factors between consumer and industry groups, industry group was more likely to concern about the importance of brand success than consumers. In addition, the consumer group perceived the most highly consumer factor as a brand success factor, followed by product and marketing and external environment factors, while industry group did in order of consumer, marketing, product, and external environment factors, which indicated significant difference in perceptions of the two groups. Through this study on consumer satisfaction to improve positive and amicable buying behavior and comparative analysis on difference of perception of consumers and industry on factorsfor financial ability and revenue increase, the foundation for strategy establishment of brand distinction in fashion industry can be provided.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.7
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• pp.721-735
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• 2011

This study: 1) identifies differences in consumers' perceived similarity of extended products to their parent product in terms of brand attributes, 2) identifies the influence of the perceived similarity on consumer's attitude toward and purchase intention of extended products (i.e., brand extension effect), and 3) examines the moderating effect of Brand Relationship Quality (BRQ) on brand extension effects. A survey questionnaire was distributed to a convenience sample of individuals aged 20-39. A total of 576 valid responses were used for the final analysis. The results showed that: 1) the consumers perceived more similarity in the extended products when the extended products maintain more consistent attributes with their parent product, 2) the higher the perceived similarity was then the higher the brand extension effect, and 3) brand relationship quality moderated the influence of perceived similarity on attitude and purchase intention. When consumers build a high relationship quality with a brand, then the brand extension effect is likely to be high regardless of the perceived similarity of the extended products. This study consequently has its own contribution in that it empirically examined the brand extension effect in the fashion field and evidenced the role of BRQ in brand extension.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.225-239
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• 2014

This study examines how environmental consciousness and socially responsible clothing consumption attitude influence people's perceptions of the consequences of fast fashion. Data were collected through a questionnaire survey administered to females in their 20s to 40s, and a total of 430 surveys were used in the final analysis. The research results are as follows. First, environmental consciousness-which was conceptualized as interest in consumer effectiveness and the environment-had a positive influence on attitudes toward socially responsible clothing consumption attitude, i.e., clothing recycling and resource conservation. As the perception of consumer effectiveness was high, respondents had a tendency not to follow trends. Second, consumers with a high level of interest in the environment perceived the effect of fast fashion on the environment as serious, and they felt negatively toward personal use of fast fashion. Third, consumers with strong resource conservation behavior perceived the effect of fast fashion on the environment as serious, but those with positive attitudes toward secondhand clothing did not appear to have that perception. Finally, consumers who followed trends and those with weakly held attitudes about resource conservation felt positively toward personal use of fast fashion. The results of this research indicate that environmental consciousness is an important factor for socially responsible clothing consumption behavior. In addition, consumers with strong attitudes regarding resource conservation were more perceptive of the negative effect of fast fashion on the environment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.573-590
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop contemporary Qipao design that emphasized creative feminine beauty with a unique sense beyond the concept of traditional Qipao design. This would be achieved using the expressive technique of human liberation from the oppression of the unconscious world a supported by surrealism. Using existing literature and previous research, surrealist expression technique used in fashion were investigated and analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the possibility of new and original design beyond existing surrealistic Qipao design was demonstrated through various realistic surrealism expression techniques, such as dépaysement, objet, and trompe-l'œil techniques. This occurred by exploring various unconscious world out of fixed ideas and through expression techniques of surrealistic fashion such as imagery of body parts, metaphorical expression of objects, and position deformation and illusion. Second, Qipao design that combined objet and attempted ordinary escape by combining isolated body parts (such as hands, eyes, and lips) within the composition combine with surrealistic expression enabled various and fun surrealistic fashion designs to emerge. Third, the metaphor of surreal lips and eyes (mainly used in works of this study) presented a unique and extraordinary combination of images in accessories and partial design that used the dépaysement technique. Thus, it was possible to expand surrealistic expression by including LED wire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.3 s.162
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• pp.433-439
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• 2007

The effects of nonionic surfactants on detergency and water wetting/retention properties of soiled cotton cloths were reported. Two different soiled cloths were used. soiled cotton cloth 1 was made in the lab. with carbon black, tripalmitin, n-dodecane & palmitic acid on Korea Apparel Testing & Research Institute(KATRI) cotton testcloth and soiled cotton cloth 2(EMPA 101) was purchased from Testfabrics, Inc., USA. The following nonionic surfactants; l.e., Span 20, Tween 20, 40, 60, 80, 21, 61, 81, 65, & 85, were used in the study. The water retention ratio(W/H) values of soiled cotton cloths were decreased, whereas the water contact angle values of soiled cloth were not changed markedly compared with those of unsoiled testcloths. The wetting and water retention of soiled cotton cloth 1 was improved with addition of nonoinic surfactants. The surfactants which have more hydrophilic characterictics or unsaturated hydrophobe tails were effective in improving wetting and water retention properties of soiled cotton cloth 1. The water contact angle values of soiled cotton cloths were extremely low with Span 20, presumably due to the high adsorption density or the surfactant. The detergency of soiled cloths were low in Span 20 and high in Tween 20, 40, 60 & 80 0.1g/dl surfactant solutions. Nonionic surfactants having higher ethylene oxide contents resulted in better detergency. In the range studied, the wetting and water retention of soiled cotton cloths did not show any particular relation to the detergency, whereas the surfactant characteristics, especially HLB values, influenced the detergency of soiled cotton cloths.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.836-851
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• 2018

Digital signage in a smart store would engage and invoke responses from consumers because good in-store experiences are more important than ever. Thus, the present study investigates consumer perceptions of interactive digital signage integrating technology acceptance model. Specifically, the current study examined 1) the effects of personal and fashion innovativeness on interactivity; 2) the effect of interactivity on perceived usefulness, ease of use, and enjoyment; and 3) the effects of perceived usefulness, ease of use, and enjoyment on intentions to use the products and the store, visit the store, and engage in word-of-mouth. As a pre-study, two researchers visited the smart stores of six brands in Seoul, all of which integrate various technologies in the fashion field. A video clip was developed as a stimulus to the study. A total of 214 responses were gathered and analyzed. The results were as follows. Personal innovativeness has a significantly positive effect on interactivity, whereas fashion innovativeness has no significant effect. Interactivity had positive effects on the perceived usefulness, ease of use, and enjoyment. Consumer responses (i.e., intentions to use, visit, and engage in word-of-mouth) were predicted by usefulness and enjoyment, but not by ease of use. The findings of this study could provide the fashion industry and retailers practical and valuable insights into enhancing consumers' in-store experiences through the use of interactive digital signage.