• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권9_10호
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• pp.1464-1475
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• 2006

This thesis is purported to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey on the glamour look in fashion, and to conduct a case study by conducting survey of fashion photographs captured in an internet site called Firsview(www.firstview.com) during most recent ten-year period covering $pr\^{e}t-\`{a}-porter$ design products presented by ten leading Italian designers. Based upon the historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour, (2) hyperfeminine glamour, (3) kitsch glamour, and (4) romantic glamour. Luxury glamour looks were most often utilized by fashion designs of Valentino and Armani, which can be characterized by frequent usage of glittering details intended to emphasize the surface decoration. Hyperfeminine glamour looks were characterized by the frequent usage of black color in an effort to create fetish atmosphere or sensuality, which can be discovered from the fashion designs of Versace, Cavalli and Ferre. Kitsch glamour looks were characterized by the appropriation of details of vulgar subcultural features mixed with strong color combinations and ethnic trimmings. Versace, Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana were the main designers of kitsch glamour looks. Finally, romantic glamour looks, which were mainly expressed by Valentine, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, were characterized by nostalgia and luxury with light colors and materials such as lace and transparent fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.765-776
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• 2007

Customer expectations and requirements for products play an important role in product planning for companies and decision making process for the consumer. These expectations are expressed by product qualities that consumers consider important when they purchase. Therefore, to identify quality elements that reflect consumer requirements would be a useful guide for companies. The purposes of this study are to find out quality factors of apparel product, to identify apparel product quality elements using Kano's theory, to find attributes of product which improvement are required. Women over 20 years-old from metropolitan areas in South Korea participated in the study and a quota sampling method was used. A questionnaire was arranged with four separate subject sections, importance of quality, Kano's questionnaires, and demographics. Data from 525 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. The results were as follows: Six dimensions of product quality(i.e., usefulness, performance, aesthetic, symbol, individuality and appearance) were identified. According to Kano's quality elements, performance was categorized into must-be quality which could lead to product dissatisfaction. Usefulness and appearance were categorized into one-dimensional quality which lead to both satisfaction and dissatisfaction. Aesthetic, symbol, and individuality was categorized into attractive quality which could lead to satisfaction. Findings of this study provide both industry and academic researchers with a guide to increase customer satisfaction in the product development process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권8호
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• pp.860-874
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• 2012

This study provides size information on current imported medical compression stockings in Korea. A total 20 brands from 6 countries imported and sold in the Korean on-off line markets were selected for this study and the sizing system of medical compression stockings was researched. The results of this study were as follows: there were size differences among different USA brands according to product type or compression class of medical compression stockings. To establish the sizing system for medical stockings of the German brands, the basic body measurements standard was set as cA, cY, cB, cB, cC, cD, cE, cF, cG, cH, cT, lD, lG, and lT. Italian brands developed the sizing system for medical compression stockings by compression class. In the Swiss brands, size types were sub-divided as 'Normal', 'Plus', 'Short', and 'Long'. The sizing 1 were confined within very narrow limits. There were differences of the basic body measurements between Taiwan brands. The results of the comparison of the size range of the imported brands with Size Korea (KATS, 2010) by two-way size distribution shows that the sizing systems of the imported brands were unsuitable for Koreans. To enhance the suitability of the sizing system for medical compression stockings, a new sizing system for Korean adult males and females needs to be established.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1025-1037
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• 2009

This study- 1) identifies the distribution of customer equity in luxury brands, 2) identifies customer equity dimensions of luxury brands, 3) identifies the properties that influence the customer equity of a luxury brand, and 4) compares the differences in the properties of the luxury brands that influence customer equity by brand type and relationship duration. In this research, the survey method was conducted in Seoul and 500 responses were used for analysis. For the data analysis, descriptive statistics (i.e. frequency and percentage), t-test, factor analysis, and multiple-regression analysis were used through the utilization of the SPSS 12.0 program. The results of this study are as follows: First, the distribution of customer equity are found to be 50.8% of the customer equity distributes under 1 million Korean won and 34.8% between 1 million won and 3 million won. Second, the luxury brand dimension consists of 6 factors, 'differentiated brand image', 'personal ties', 'qualitative trust relation', 'rational price value', 'store value', and 'convenience value'. Third, the higher 'differentiated brand image', 'personal ties', 'qualitative trust relation', 'store value', and 'convenience value' were related to a higher customer equity. Fourth, in the case of the consumer group having a long-term relationship, the higher' differentiated brand image', 'personal ties', and 'store value' were related to a higher customer equity. Also, in the case of the consumer group of the traditional luxury brands, the higher 'personal ties', 'differentiated brand image', 'qualitative trust relation', and 'store value' were related to a higher customer equity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.297-307
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of physical type and age on preference for color and fabric motifs in women's clothing design. Color preference measures consisted of fabric samples in solid colors and drawings of clothing styles painted in colors. Preference for fabric motifs was assessed by printed fabrics in various patterns and sizes. All of the preference measures were devised specifically for this study. Furthermore, items on height and weight for physical type as well as age of the subjects were included in the questionnaire. Data were obtained by means of structured interviews and self-administered questionnaires from 588 women ($20\~60$ years of age) in seoul. Analysis was by chi-square ($X^{2}$), frequency, percentage, and mean. On color preference, a small but significant body type, height, and age effect was found on some types of clothing. Preference for fabric motifs was affected by body type; height of subjects was related to preference for size of motifs, and age was related to choice, size, and width of striped motifs. It was concluded that body type, height, and age are 1e3st effective in predicting color preference. Fabric motif preference was influenced more by age than by body type or height. Generally, there was some similarities in preference for lines and fabric patterns among slim body types, tall figures, and younger age groups as well as heavy body types, short figures, and older age groups.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.41-55
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• 1987

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of napping of knitted fabric on wear sensation and physiological responses. Experimental garments were four types of warm-ups made of either $100\%$ PET or $65/35\%$ P /C and either napped or unnapped respectively. Two healthy young female adults were chosen as subjects for the experiment. Experimental room conditions were as follows: Temp., $22\pm0.5^{\circ}C$ R.H., $54\pm3\%$ and Air Velocity, 0.25m/ sec or 2. 86m/sec. The subjects exercised on bicycle ergometer and rested alternatively for totally 45-min. The results are summarized as follows. 1) With napped Warm-up, chest, back, mean skin temp. and microclimates, i.e., temp., relative humidity and water vapor pressure inside the clothing, were higher than with unnapped warm-up. And there was no difference in pulse rate between napped and unnapped warm-ups. 2) Wear sensations of thermal, humidity, tactile and comfort were 'more hot' and 'more uncomfortable' in 0.25m/sec air velocity. but in 2.86m/sec condition the tactile sensation was 'better' and 'more comfortable' with napped warm-ups. According to Pearson's Correlation, among various kinds of wear sensations, tactile is most related with comfort. From these results, it can be concluded that napped fabric decreases the rate of heat trans? mission and moisture diffusion through the clothing. Therefore skin and body temp. and temp., R.H., Vapor Pressure inside the clothing are increased.

• 감성과학
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.495-502
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• 2011

광섬유 직물 기반 스마트 의류가 국, 내외로 개발되고 있는 실정이며, 기존의 일반적인 광섬유는 직물화가 어렵고 내구성, 내수성이 결여되어 세탁 및 유지 관리의 한계로 인해 에칭된 광섬유사의 표면에 합성수지를 코팅 처리하는 '내수성 광섬유사 가공 기술'이 최근 개발 되었다. 본 연구에서는 제직 후 측광가공 된 유연 광섬유 직물을 대상으로 광섬유사 길이에 따른 특성과 광원 색채에 따른 발광 특성을 분석, 평가하여 디지털 컬러 의류의 적용 적합성을 파악하고자 한다. 이를 위하여 광섬유사 길이에 따른 총 4가지 유연 광섬유 직물시료를 제직하여, 이를 대상으로 광원 색채에 따른 유연 광섬유 직물의 휘도, 물리적 가시도, 지각적 가시도를 측정함으로써 발광특성을 분석하였다. 그 결과, 10cm인 유연 광섬유 직물과 녹색 광원을 사용한 경우가 최대가시거리 100m로 디지털 컬러 의류 즉, 안전보호 기능의 산악복 적용에 가장 적합한 발광효과를 보이는 것으로 나타났다. 그러므로 본 연구의 결과는 앞으로 유연 광섬유 직물 적용 의류 개발과 관련된 후속 연구의 자료로서 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.77-88
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• 1993

The changes in body temperatures of students in physical trained and untrained colleges have been studied as a funtion of garment styles under three different environmental conditions ($13{\pm}1$, $21{\pm}1$, $31{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $60{\pm}5%$ RH, 0.25m/sec). Since exposures of the extremities of body affect the regulation of body temperature, two types of garments, i.e., the skirt and the slacks, were used in order to observe the effects of the garment styles on the regulation of body temperatures. The skirt exposed the calf of the leg, while the slacks did not. Because the body temperature is regulated better for healtier people, the subjects were divided into two groups. one group was consisted of 2 untrained female students, and the other of 2 healthier female physical college students. 1. The rectal temperatures for those in skirt were $0.3^{\circ}C$ higher than for the ones in slacks at $13^{\circ}C$ regardless of the groups. The untrained group showed $0.3^{\circ}C$ higher rectal temperatures in skirt and $0.2^{\circ}C$ higher in slacks compared to the physical trained group. 2. The skin temperatures rose with the environmental temperatures, and the skirt gave larger mean skin temperature by $0.5^{\circ}C$ at $21^{\circ}C$. 3. At $13^{\circ}C$, the untrained group felt colder, more wet, and slightly more uncomfortable for both skirt and slacks. It is concluded that the skirt is more effective in physiological defense against cold stimuli than the slacks at $13^{\circ}C$, and that the regulation of body temperature takes place more efficiently to the physical trained students.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.151-161
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of hydrophilic finish for polyester (PET) fabric and hydrophobic finish for cotton fabric on the water transport and comfort properties. Polyester fabric was treated with 10% sodium hydroxide solution to impart hydrophilicity. Cotton fabric was sprayed with Scotch-gard$^{(R)}$ water and oil repellent finish to impart hydrophobicity. Porosity, air permeability, contact angle, wickability and water vapor transport rate (WVTR) were measured to determine the water transport properties of fabrics. To compare the comfort properties of treated and untreated fabrics, wear test was performed by putting fabric patches on the upper back: stratum corneum water content (SCWC), subjective wettedness and comfort rating were determined. The results were as follows: (1) The contact angle of water on treated polyester fabric was decreased and that of treated cotton fabric was increased. Also, the wickability of treated polyester fabric was increased and the wickability of cotton fabric was decreased. (2) Although each finish did not change porosity, the water vapor transport rate of treated polyester fabric was increased and that of treated cotton fabric was decreased slightly. (3) The results of stratum corneum water content measurements showed good agreement with the results of the contact angle and the wickability, i.e., the better the liquid water transport properties are, the less the stratum corneum water contents were resulted. (4) The realtionship of subjective wettedness or comfort and stratum corneum water content was independent. Therefore, it was concluded that human perception on the subjective wettedness or the comfort is affected by the skin contact of wet fabric rather than by the stratum corneum water content.