• Title/Summary/Keyword: dyers

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Dye Supply and Demand System and Type of Dyer in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대의 염료 수급 체계와 염색 수공업자 유형)

  • Kim, Soon-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.38 no.5
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    • pp.755-768
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    • 2014
  • This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.

Species identification of Dyers woad leaf by DNA sequence of 5S-rRNA spacer domain and random amplified polymorphic DNA (RAPD) analysis

  • Zhao, K.J.;Dong, T.T.X.;Wong, Y.C.;Tu, P.F.;Tsim, K.W.K.
    • Advances in Traditional Medicine
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.117-123
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    • 2005
  • Dyers woad leaf (Daqingye) is a traditional Chinese medicine commonly used as anti-pyretic, anti-bacterial and anti-viral agent against infectious diseases. The Chinese Pharmacopoeia (2005) records that Dyers woad leaf should be derived from the leaves of Isatis indigotica Fort., but the leaves of Polygonum tinctorium Ait., Baphicacanthus cusia (Nees) Bremek. and Clerodendron cyrtophyllum Turcz. have also been used as substitutes of Dyers woad leaf in different regions of China. The leaf morphologies of these four species show a close resemblance, and based on their morphological appearance, it is difficult to identify them. Here, molecular genetic methods were developed as a target to identify different members of Dyers woad leaf. The 5S-rRNA spacer domain was amplified by polymerase chain reaction from genomic DNAs isolated from I. indigotica, P. tinctorium, B. cusia and C. cyrtophyllum, and the nucleotide sequences showed a great diversity. In addition, random amplification of polymorphic DNA analysis was also used to distinguish the members of Dyers woad leaf. These molecular methods could be used as a tool in authentic identification of Dyers woad leaf.

안료날염의 전망

  • Kim, Yeong-Seok
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2004.08a
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    • pp.25-59
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    • 2004
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