• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.1252-1261
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to grasp the utilization of traditional Korean Patterns used for fashion cultural products. To achieve this purpose, this study examined the range of fashion cultural products through literature review, previous researches, and market surveys and analyzed the situation of fashion cultural products and the kinds, expression methods, expression techniques, and repeat styles of utilized patterns. The analysis results are as follows. First, in the use of traditional pattern, the most frequently-used fashion cultural products were small and inexpensive accessories, followed by fashion apparel, miscellaneous goods, and living cultural goods. Second, the most frequently-used traditional patterns were plant patterns, especially flower patterns. The next frequently-used ones were mixed patterns, especially in the mixture of flower and letter patterns, and $cloisonn\'{e}$ and flower patterns. The next frequently-used traditional patterns were animal patterns(especially butterfly patterns), followed by geometric patterns, lucky omen patterns, and letter patterns. In the expression methods of used patterns, most products except handicrafts preferred simplified patterns to real patterns. Finally, in the expression techniques of traditional patterns, the most frequently used technique was traditional embroidery, followed by the use of weaving fabrics such as fine gauze and brocade which are used for Hanbok. Also, transfer dyeing which is one of printing techniques, DTP(digital textiles printing), a mixed technique which adds embroidery to weaving fabrics, hand-painting, and a gilt technique were used. The results of this study suggest that most fashion cultural products except few designers' works attached weight to some specified patterns and expression techniques regardless of the characteristics of products since there is little understanding of a variety of patterns and are few researches and development on expression techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.233-244
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• 1998

This research wants to find the possibility for new paradigm of modern Korean dress by accepting and harmonizing the tradition and the modernization of Korean design when Korean designers enter into Paris collection and express identity of Korean fashion, and investigates the characteristics of Korean design with concentrating on the works of Young-hee Lee, Shin-woo Lee, Tae-ok Jin who have exhibited their works at Paris Collection. For one of the above characteristics Young-hee Lee, a designer of Korean clothes, emphasized to build up image of Korean fashion as a form of Korea without any modification, and expressed universal western-style silhouette as Korean image by using traditional technique including dyeing and silk made by herself, quil-t and decorative saddle stitching. In the as-pect that a chain of work has made not by westernization of Korean clothes but by re-creation of Korean clothes, it suggested a new way of modern Korean fashion with harmonizing tradition with modernizations as of present based on our own dress tradition and have got good reputation from the press and the field in Paris as well. Therefore the tradition and the modernization of Korean design is not confronted or compromised in form, color, material, motif and decoration but has to be harmonized and reconciled independently in order that visual characteristics of dress can be made as one of Korean image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.337-343
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• 2009

This study systematically investigated a method for extraction of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linnaeus) colorants by ultrasonic treatment. Compared to pigments productivity and cell wall structures of safflower after general and ultrasonic method, the ultrasonic method showed high extraction efficiency of safflower pigments due to destruction of safflower cell wall caused by high vibration energies. Microscopic analysis confirmed the hypothesis that the ultrasonic treatment of safflower caused its cell wall structure loosened and made efficient extraction of safflower pigments. And also, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed that productivities of the yellow and red safflower pigments by ultrasonic method were 21.9% and 14.6% higher, respectively, than those of pigments extracted by general method. The ultrasonic extracted yellow and red colorants could be used to dye not only natural fibers like cotton, silk and wool, but also synthetic fiber like nylon, and generally gave a better color tone than the general extracted colorants from safflower due to the affinities of red and yellow colorant on different fibers. As the yellow and red colorant were extracted by ultrasonic treatment in water, the K/S value on of 550/440nm of cotton and rayon was increased but in the case of silk and wool the change of this value was almost not detected. Finally, this technique might provide a solution to establish reproducibility and standardization for the extraction and dyeing methods on fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.249-265
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• 2005

Creative application in elaborate techniques can not only make design constructs productive but also can widen designers' figurative perspectives. There are many techniques applied in fashion design such as folds, patchworks, embroidery, dyeing, industrial treatment, etc. In particular, folds play a significant part in enlightening clothes uniqueness in contemporary fashion design. The primary purpose of this study was to make new suggestion for the production of high value-added fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing fold expressions. Diverse fold designs were retrieved through a comprehensive literature review on topic-related books, fashion dictionaries, and fashion encyclopedias. Significant cases of fashion designs using folds were retrieved from fashion magazines uploaded from 2000. There are three types of folds applied in fashion design. (1) The folds by needlework like tucks, smocking, shirring, and trimming type folds(ruffle, frill, flounce, and ruche). (2) The folds by chemical or mechanical treatment like permanent pleats and crinkle. (3) The folds of formative dress like drape. From a comprehensive review of the folds design cases after 2000, the following characteristics of folds design were identified: (1) a highlighted role in the whole, (2) mixture and deformation of techniques and materials, (3) 3-D surface effect, (4) creation of a unique figurative beauty, and (5) expression of diverse fashion image.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.264-269
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• 2004

The present paper deals with improvement in disperse dyeablility as well as imparting of cationic dyeablility to difficultly dyeable polypropylene by a melt blending technique. Isotactic polypropylene (PP) was blended with fibre grade polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate (CDPET) and polystyrene (PS), individually. The resulting binary blends were spun and drawn into fibres at draw ratio 2, 2.5, and 3. The compatibility of blends, structural changes of fibres in terms of X-ray crystallinity, relative crystallinity, sonic modulus, birefringence and thermal stability were examined. The blended fibres were found to be disperse dyeable by the conventional method of high temperature and high pressure dyeing. And this dye ability increased with increase in the level of substitution. PP/CDPET blend also exhibited dyeablility with cationic dyes in addition to that with disperse dyes. The optimum level of blending was predicted keeping in view of tenacity and thermal stability of melt blend fibres. The wash fastness properties of the dyed fibres were found to be of high rate.

• The Transactions of the Korea Information Processing Society
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.992-999
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• 2000

Textile dimension inspection is one of the basic issues in the textile dyeing and finishing industry. And also, it a plays an important role in the quality control of total fabric products. In this paper, we implement a real-time textile dimension inspection system which detects various real defects, defects positions of textile and the density of textiles. The proposed method consists of textile density measurement algorithms with zone-occurrence features from subband image which detect various types of real defects. The performance of the proposed method is tested with a number of real textile samples with 10 types of defects and three basic structures of textile. By the dimension inspection of textile at continuous stages in the fabrication process, it is possible to measure the density of textile up to 150m/min and to detect the defect of textile at real time within $\pm$1% error percentages. And also it can be monitored the condition of textile throughout at all the significant working process and can be improved textile quality.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Magazine of the Korea Concrete Institute
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.127-135
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• 1997

In this study, the wedge splitting tcst (WST) was carried out for the fatigue wack growth behavior of concrete. Selected test variables were concrete compressive strength of 28, 60 and 118 MI%, and stress ratio with 2 levels (6. 13%). In oder to make the designed stress ratio, the maximum and thr minimum fatigue loading level were 75-85% and 5- 10% of ultimate static load, respectively. Fatigue testing was preceded by crack mout.h opening displacement (CMOI)) compliance calibration tcst, and then the fatigue crack growth was computed by crack lcngth vs. (lMOI) compliance relations acquisited by the CMOD compliance calibration technique. To evaluate thc validity of CMOD compliancc calibration techniquc, the crack length p~mlicted by this method was cornpard with the crack length by linear elastic fracture mechanics(LEFIbl) and dyeing test. On the basis of the experimental results, a LRFhl-based c.mpirica1 model for f'at,igue crack growth rate(da/dN-AKI relationships) was presented. The fat,igut. crack growth ratc increased with the strength of concwtc. It appcars that t.he da/tiN-AKI relationships was influenced by stress ratio, however, the effect is diminished with an increase of strength. The comparisons between CblOl) compliance calibration technique anti the other. methods gave the validity of' ('MOD compliance calibration technique for the LZXT.

• Journal of Bio-Environment Control
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.13-20
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• 2007

This study was conducted to collect the basic data fo the development ot hydroponic technique and the efficient promotion of water culture. We have also analysed the water culture associated domestic patent application informations searching for on-line internet site with an admission fee (http://www2.wips.co.kr) from the year 1983 to January, 2006. Fifty nine patent applications related to the hydroponics were searched for in this study. Main patent contents applied were as followed in the order of that nineteen applications about the hydroponic equipments by 32.2%, thirteen applications about the materials used in water culture by 22.0%, eleven applications about the composition of nutrient solution by 18.6%, nine applications about the cultural methods by 15.3%, and seven applications about the cultural media by 11.9%. The compositions of nutrient solution and the cultural methods intended for specific crops were increased in number following five applications about tomato plants and four applications about potatoes. Thirty three patents (55.9%) were mainly applied before the year 2000. Main patent contents were the compositions of nutrient solution before the year 2000 in contrast to the cultural methods and substrates after the year 2000.

• Archives of design research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.163-174
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• 2001

William Morris(1834-1896) was the most versatile and talented of all British nineteenth century polymaths. Since his death over one hundred years ago his achievements as an artist, designer, manufacturer, shop-keeper, poet, author, publisher, printer, collector, teacher, conservationist, political activist and environmentalist have influenced the lives and work of people throughout the world. Moris is now best known for his attractive and colorful patterns. The decorating firm of Morris, Marshall, Fault & Company(Morris & Company after 1875) was established in 1861. Over the years it produced works, ranging from stained·glass windows and furniture to tapestries, carpets and printed and woven fabrics, that had great influence on the course of British design. His earliest experiments with the craft were amateurishly worked embroideries made for his own use. Before long, Morris began to produce textiles on a more commercial basis. In order to control production properly, Morris set about learning the various textiles techniques, first dyeing and blockprinting, hand-loom jacquard and eventually, carpet and tapestry weaving. This extraordinary involvement with the practical side of manufacture separated Morris from all other designers of his time and contributed in no small way to his success. Morris's designs for textiles, embroidery, dyeing, woven, carpet and tapestry were commercially produced, that are most universally admired and frequently copied today. These have a timeless quality arising from the designers respect for and knowledge of the technique. Of equal importance was his love of nature, evidence of which can be seen in even the smallest details of each of his patterns.