• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.772-777
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• 2004

This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weaving weft tensions on the 3 types of rapier looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of 3 types of rapier looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.54-61
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• 2004

This research surveys the differences of fabric mechanical properties with the different looms and the fabric positions according to the warp and weft yarn tensions on the Vamatex and Omega-Panter looms respectively. For this purpose, the grey fabrics woven by PET filament using two test looms are dyed and finished. The processing shrinkages are measured on each processes such as dryer, scouring, pre-set, dyeing and final-set using the fabric density and width. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft yarn tensions of the two looms and the fabric positions. In addition, the fabric thickness according to the fabric positions such as right, left selvedges and center of the fabrics is also measured and discussed with the characteristics of the Vamatex and Omega-Panter looms.

• 기계저널
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.53-62
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• 1995

섬유산업에서 염색가공공정은 섬유제품의 고부가가치 창출과 제품의 품질향상을 위한 중요한 공정으로서, 생산현장상황을 고려한 생산설비의 개발이 무엇보다 중요하다. 특히 염색가공공정 기계의 국제 경쟁력 확보를 위해 고려해야 할 사항으로는 고압기계 최대 발현을 위한 장력조절 장치, 균일한 열전달장치, 제어장치의 자동화, 각종 조제의 자동농도조절장치 등의 보다 정밀한 기계 개발이 시급하다 하겠다. 또한 염색설비 제조기술 중 제품설계, 가공방법, 전문인력, 부품 소재 조달, 전기 $\cdot$ 전자 및 정보 등의 산업환경에 대한 생산기반 확보가 뒷받침되어 섬유산업의 성장발전과 밀접한 연관을 가질 수 있어야 염색설비의 외산 의존도를 줄이며, 국산화율을 높 이고 국제경쟁력이 확보될 것으로 여겨진다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.48-53
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Textec and Vamatex looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences. Fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^{\circledR$-Panter rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd., respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.180-197
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to create knit ruffles that represent the aesthetic and artistic values of painted works of art that rhythmically express flower petals and add an artistic impression on the knit ruffle designs. This study is based on the artistic life of Georgia O'Keeffe and changes in her artistic background, and the world of paintings. The relevant data was gathered from domestic and foreign references, academic journals, and the internet. The characteristics of Georgia O'Keeffe paintings were examined. Her paintings typically include a series of various motifs, symmetry, balance, and harmony of detailed realistic expressions and abstract elements, repetition, and the principles of contrast and emphasis in shaping. The decoration techniques used on fabrics were applied using the knitting machine which controls the tension to develop a variety of textures, apart from the previous standardized knit textures, through various knitting techniques. A gradation effect was then applied by piece-dyeing the knitted materials in various colors to express asimilarity to the original colors in O'Keeffe's works with delicate color expressions. After the piece-dyeing, the decorative knitted materials were trimmed on a model to re-create the natural curves of flower petals. This study aims to converge works of art with fashion designs to develop various creative knitted fashion and to impart an artistic sense in the fashion design industry.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.231-238
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• 2017

There are many kinds of elements and processes for the development of high quality bedding products like fiber, high-temperature heat treatment, dyeing process, tenter drying with softening agent and multiple final finishing. Especially we examined the mechanical characteristic properties of fabrics according to different yarn types. The critical physical properties of the yarn consisting the pile knitted fabrics were obtained for the development of the hi-grade bedding items. The material property and the exhaustion behaviour of the developed pile knitted fabrics composing of different yarns were measured and observed. The physical properties of the developed fabric were evaluated through the material property analysis of the yarn, the physical nature of the pile knitted fabrics and the data of the exhaustion performance; tensile strength, tensile elongation, tearing strength, cross section of yarn types, dyeing properties etc. And then high-class of bedding items were knitted using the double raschel machine to make the pile knitted fabrics.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.147-151
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• 1994

고급성과 위생성이 우수한 견과 실용적 특성이 우수한 합성섬유의 서로의 장점만을 가진 이상적인 직물을 개발코저 시험한 결과 고치와 polyester 복합사(S/P 복합사)와 복합 직물의 특성은 다음과 같다. 1. 자동조사기에 의한 복합사 제조시험 결과 빔을 5회 주었을때 보다 빔을 주지 않았을때 사조 집합도가 향상되었으며 빔을 주지 않고 공기교란 장치만으로 섬도 감지기의 작동도 정확히 이루어져 섬도편차가 양호한 S/P 복합사를 제조할 수 있었다. 2. S/P 복합사를 SEM으로 관찰한 결과 포합이 잘된 부분이 많았으나 견사는 견사끼리 polyester는 polyester 끼리 포합된 형태도 관찰되었다. 3. 직물을 SEM으로 관찰한 chiffon 직물은 강연을 한 결과 견사 부분이 polyester사 내부로 파묻힌 곳도 관찰되었다. 4. 분산염료와 산성염료 혼합용액에서 일욕 이단법으로 염색한 S/P 복합사 직물의 염색견뢰도는 habutae 직물은 일광견뢰도가 3급인 것을 제외하고는 모두 4급 이상으로 양호하였고 chiffon 직물은 모두 4급이상으로 양호하였다. 5. habutae 직물과 chiffon 직물의 특성을 보면 강력과 modulus는 생지에서 가장 크고 염색 가공지에서 크게 감소되었으며 신도는 정련지와 염색 가공지가 생지보다 증가되었다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.86-96
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• 2017

To make uniform pressure distributed over the contact surface was necessary to cold pad batch dyeing machine. In this study, to confirm characteristic of flexibility and the contact pressure distribution through experimental analysis of padder roll were controlled by hydraulic cell. When there were no load pressure only inner pressure, the value of displacement in the center of padder were greater than the end of the padder. The results of this study showed that the padder had the optimum value of inner pressure for uniform contact pressure distribution. Measuring the contact pressure in a padder system were driven by using a pre-scale film. Uniform contact pressure distribution of cell padder were a linearly with load pressure and inner pressure. When the load pressure was less than 8 tons, the inner pressure for the uniform contact pressure was 1~4 bar. The padder roll performance curves proposed in this study were available for practical production environments and various roll designs.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.35-49
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• 2015

This paper investigated optimum process conditions of coating yarn for awning fabric. For this purpose, the simulation for processability and yarn quality using SPSS statistics package was carried out, and PP/TPO and PET/PVC coating yarns specimens were made with variation of extruder temperature and feed speed of core yarn on the yarn coating machine for examining simulation result. It was revealed that optimum coating conditions of PP/TPO 1000d coating yarn were extruder temperature $150^{\circ}C$, and core yarn feed speed 400~500m/min. Mechanical property and thermal shrinkage of PP/TPO coating yarn made at this conditions were best and core evenness rates of these coating yarns by yarn compression tester were also superior, which was certified by SEM photograph. In addition, these experimental results were coincided with simulation results. It was found that, in PET/PVC coating yarn, yarn physical properties between 1500d and 1200d coated yarns were not shown any difference, and core evenness rates of these coating yarns were superior. It revealed and concluded that these simulated coating conditions are applicable to production field.