• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.65-69
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• 2013

PET fabrics of various luster, fiber thickness(denier), and weaving structure were dyed at the same conditions and determined their grey scale by using naked eyes, computer color matching (CCM) system, and real industry color (RIC) device to evaluate the effectiveness of RIC device developed in this study. As for the luster of fabrics, bright PET showed more differences when compared with semi-dull and full-dull. PET in both naked eyes and RIC device since the RIC device provide the real image of fabrics to observers. As for the fiber thickness, the results of naked eyes and RIC device were very similar while the result of CCM showed lower color grade. Finally, as for the weaving structures of PET fabrics, all the test results by naked eyes, CCM, and RIC device showed almost same grey scales. In these regards, the RIC device developed in this study was comparable to naked eyes by providing the real image of fabrics, however it was difficult to compare the very bright colors such as yellow and fiber thickness(denier) and weaving structure of fabrics.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.200-205
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• 2004

For decolorization of various reactive dyes, 13 species of microbes were isolated from dyeing wastewater collected from Banweol industrial complex, Korea. Two strains among them showed good ability for removing celerity during the decolorization test with 5 different reactive dyes. And the optimal growth conditions were pH 7, 35$^{\circ}C$, yeast extract as nitrogen source, glucose as carbon source, and facultative anaerobic condition. As results, when Reactive Red 180 was used, 89 and 87% of decolorization efficiency were able to be obtained by using Bacillus anthracis and Bacillus cereus, respectively. Especially, Bacillus cereus showed good ability for decolorization of Reactive Blue 21, and the ratio was 76% Finally, it was considered that these two strains isolated in this study will be showed high decolorization ability to treat dyeing wastewater.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.240-247
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• 2005

In this study, cotton fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the cases of Al, Cr, and Sn mordanting, the dye-uptake was well accomplished in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5. However, the dye-uptake was not accomplished in the range over pH 6. In the cases of Cu and Fe mordanting, however, the pH value did not affect the dye-uptake and the dyeability in the alkaline range was not decreased remarkably. In the case of non-mordant, the dye-uptake was not accomplished at all, and the Cu and Fe mordanting gave rise to the best dyeability. In the cases of non-mordanting and Al, Cu mordanting, there was no change in the $\lambda_{max}$, and in the cases of Sn and Cr mordanting, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved toward the shorter wavelength. In the case of Fe mordanting only, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved gradually toward the longer wavelength, and due to the pH effect deep-dyeing effect was revealed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.540-549
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• 2005

It was the purpose of this study to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment and mordanting on the air-permeability, fastness of the dyestuff to washing, fastness of the dyestuff to light, and antimicrobial effect of cotton and nylon fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were made on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, due to the dye-uptake of the dyestuff component of the Rhusjara ica, the air-permeability values decreased considerably. And due to the action of the mordanting agents, the air-permeability decreased also. The air-permeability decreased more conspicuously in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the chitosan components than in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the cotton fibers or nylon fibers. Nylon dyed fabric exhibited better wash fastness than the cotton dyed fabric. As the number of washing increased, the color of the cotton fabric specimens and nylon fabric specimens, dyed using Rhusjara ica, shifted toward yellowish. The light fastness values were in the range of grade 1${\~}$2, which were very inferior. The light fastness values did not improve according to the mordanting or to the chitosan treatment. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica, the growth rate of the bacteria promoted, on the contrary, compared to that of the control white fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.15-22
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• 1999

This study investigated the mordanting effect of natural mordants such as camellia ash, bean chaff ash and pyrolignite of iron(Iron(II) Acetate) on silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts. Experimental variables include the conditions of extraction and dyeing, and types of natural mordants. Inorganic ion contents In natural mordants were analysed by Induced Coupled Plasma Atomic Emission Spectrometer. In the ash Al, Fe, Si and Mn were in % unit, Cr and Ni were detected in ppm unit, and in the aqueous extracts of the ash all the metal ions were in ppm unit. On the other hand, fairly high content of Al(2.13% ) in camellia ash extract and Fe(7.91% ) in the aqueous extracts of pyrolignite iron were detected. The absorbance intensity of green tea extracts in UV-Visible spectrum increased with the temperature and time of extraction. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 272.5nm and 210.5nm. The US values of silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts were increased with temperature and time of dyeing. Surface color of silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was 9.1YR, but it was changed from 7.9YR to 7.5YR by camellia ash extract and 7.4YR to 6.4YR by bean chaff ash extract with increase in mordant concentration. Pre-mordanted and post-mordanted fabrics with pyrolignite of iron were changed from 1.4YR to 1.1R and 7.2P to 4.2P, respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.585-602
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao's Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao's traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.25-31
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• 2000

In order to decolorize disperse dyes by using biological treatment process, a strain which has potential ability to degrade disperse dyes was isolated from natural system. To increase the removal efficiency of decolorization in the aqueous solutions, the optimal condition of decolorization by this strain was investigated, and continuous plant test was also developed. The optimal culture conditions of temperature and pH were found to be 4$0^{\circ}C$ and 8.5~9, respectively. When yeast extract was mixed with polypeptone at the mixing ratio of 1:1 as a nitrogen source, decolorization efficiency was highest(93%) among the nitrogen sources. The strain to be screened was excellent to adjust to pH, and it seems to be have ability to control pH needed to growth. The optimal culture conditions in concentration of $MgSO_4\cdot{7H}_2O$ and $KH_2PO_4$ were 0.1%(w/v) and 0.2%(w/v). The result of continuous plant process using wastewater was as following : $COD_{Mn}$ removal efficiency was over than 50%, and this strain was very excellent in decolorization-efficiency for the wastewater of Taegu dyeing complex.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.221-225
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• 2005

A Staphylococcus sp. EY-3 with the capability of decolorizing Congo Red was isolated from soil at an effluent treatment plant of a textile and dyeing industry. This strain was able to almost completely decolorize a high concentration of Congo Red in 48 h under aerobic conditions. Optimal color removal (more than 96%) was achieved at 30- 40oC, and no noticeable effects of different pH values (5.5- 8.0) on decolorization were observed. This strain also exhibited a remarkable decolorization capability against azo dyes under aerobic conditions, even at a high concentration (dyes 1 g/l) of dye. The metabolic product of Congo Red degradation by this strain was identified by gas chromatography with mass selective detection (GC/MSD) to be an amine derivative benzidine.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.155-161
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• 2017

In CPB(Cold-Pad-Batch) dyeing, the rubber of the padder roll is influenced by the heat, chemical and mechanical influences and thus aging of the padder roll rubber occurs. This study presents an accelerated thermal aging test of the CPB padder roll rubber with strong alkali conditions. Using Arrhenius formula of the various property values for the various aging temperatures($80^{\circ}C$, $90^{\circ}C$, $100^{\circ}C$) of the padder roll, the accelerated life predictions could be calculated. The threshold value of the property was set at different values. The hardness was set at the point where 5% degradation occurs based on the actual use conditions, and the tensile strength was set at the point where 50% degradation occurs based on the general life prediction standards. From the results of the different physical properties at differing temperatures, the Arrhenius plot could be obtained. Through the usage of the Arrhenius Equation, significant duration expectation could be predicted, and the chemical aging behavior of the CPB padder roll could be found at the arbitrary and actual temperatures.