• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.799-809
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• 2000

This study was designed for automated pattern drawing and grading a man's Durumagi, Korean traditional coat in order to reestablished and grade the pattern by Apparel CAD SYSTEM. For the study, AM-250 systems of Gerber as the computer and Macro program as the automated drawing were used. Also, PDS(Pattern Design System) was used for the grading of the original Durumagi pattern. Results were followings; First, the size data that could be standardized by reestablishing the pattern of a man's Durumagi by each size was presented. Second, The pattern was developed by each size. Third, new design was propose for mass production with the traditional design of the DURUMAGI Fourth, The time for making DURUMAGI pattern and the cost through the automated drawings by using the Macro program were reduced. Moreover, was presented the basic data for a ready to made garment like the Western garment. Five, A man's DURUMAGI by CAD System was graded that could be applied to ready to made Hanbok

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.71-81
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• 2010

For a pattern to be a scientific and reasonable drafting method. it should be based on the human body, have fewer measuring items, be easy to learn, and be able to make good-looking clothing that fits many people. Therefore, the height, foot length and circle radius in the Durumagi drafted in this study examined to improved the drafting method for Korean Durumagi. As a result, a pattern drafting method was developed in which Moo, Gutsup, Ansup and length of clothing were naturally derived according to the size of individuals.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.887-898
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• 2000

Mourning & funeral ritual means a various kinds of ritual procedures which begins at the time of death, buried and created a graveyard, a manner of wearing funeral garment being mourning the death, finally go back to everyday life. Our mourning & funeral custom was burial at first time. After going through the era of the Three kingdoms, The unified Shilla and Korea dynasty, cremation method has been prevailed. However, based on Chu-tzu celebration in Chosun dynasty, the burial custom has been widely spread again. Nowadays, due to effective land utilization issue, excessive cost for burial and the change of thinking for cremation, the cremation is recognized as remedy of righteous funeral system. At this point, a shroud following existing burial custom burdens considerably for quality, price, size and design of it. Accordingly, it needs anew style of shroud corresponding to cremation system. As an alternative, the shroud is required simplification and standardization ; Firstly, in size, a shroud should be larger than plain clothes and differentiated in small, medium and large. Secondly, the material of a shroud would be white cotton, which can keep from pollution during burning time. Thirdly, it unifies the item. In case of man, 바지(把特, those are trousers), 저고리(赤古里, Korean-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat). In case of woman, 치마(赤　, those are skirt), 저고리(赤古里, Koran-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.106-115
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• 2010

This study's purpose is to, first survey the traditional children clothing, clothing which doesn't get studied mostly. Second, to choose the factor that can modernize. Third, to design the present one-piece dress. Fourth, to gather an understanding about traditional children clothing and make a chance for children to wear the clothing that has a traditional factor. Traditional children clothes have a same shape with adults' clothes they use five primary color and use a pattern of a symbolic meaning which means healthy and long life. For ordinary wears there are Chimajogori and Bajijogori and for ceremonial dresses they wore Durumagi, Sagyusam which are Po and Dangui and headdress was added. The shape was considered by the children growth condition so the Gorum got longer. The dragon, cicadas, butterfly, phoenix and lots of flower pattern was used by the difference with the class. 5 one-piece design adapted Jogori, skirt, Dangui, Sagyusam, Magoja and used the traditional fabric by mixing the five primary color and the five secondary color was used to make traditional color. This study expects for a chance of children to wear traditional Hanbok or Hanbok-adapted clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.763-770
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• 2002

The objective of the study was to investigate skin temperature responses of Hanbok when it was worn. Two healthy females(average 21 years, 155cm and 60kg were exposed to a climatic chamber(Room Temp. $21{\pm}1^{\circ}C,\;52{\pm}2%R.H.$, 0.15m/s). During the experiment, rectal temperature, skin temperature of 9 areas, clothing microclimate, subjective sensation were measured. Chima and Jogory to be made of silk nobang(SN) or Ramie were worn for summer. Polyester(P) Chima and Jogori(R) could be wort for spring and autumn. For winter, silk Chima, Jogori(S) and Durumagi(D) were commonly worn. Rectal temperature was high in order of naked(N), R, SN, P, S, D. However Mean skin temperature was reversely high in order of D, S, SN, R, P, naked. In naked, skin temperature was high in order of head, trunk upper extremity and lower extremity. But on wearing of Hanbok, it was the highest at the chest except head regardless of kinds of clothing ensembles. Skin temperature of upper arm was secondly highest on wearing the silk ensemble and the Durumagi ensemble, but skin temperature of buttock was secondly highest on wearing the silk nobang ensemble and the ramie ensemble. Skin temperature on wearing the silk ensemble was generally higher than those on other clothing ensembles. Local and mean skin temperatures on wearing the silk ensemble and the Durumagj ensemble were generally higher than on other clothing ensembles. Heat resistance of the fabric might have affected on the local skin temperature.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.77-91
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• 1994

The Korean Buddhism has been an effect on the Korean culture from the spipitual culture to the living culture. The Korean Buddhist costume, as an external form of the Buddhist culture, symbolizes the Buddhist ideas, the status difference of the general public, and keeps the traditional structure. The purpose of this study was to examine the monk's costume of Jokye sect and Taego sect among 47 sects,. In this study, it selected Jokye sect and Taego sect, because they are occupying important positions in the Korean Buddhism. The methods of this study depended on the documentary records, existing remains, the wearing clothing, the interviews with monks. In a changeful times, It is needed to study the actual condition of the Buddhist costume and keeps records about it. The results of this study may be stated as follows: The Buddhist costuem is composed of Chogori, Baji, Haengjon(leggins), Durumagi, Jangsam, kasa, hats, rubber shoes, Jori and Gelmang, etc. Chogori, Baji, Haengjon, Durumagi as the everyday dress are found in the Korean traditional costume. The forms and kinds of the everyday dress were the same between two sects, but the colors were different. Jangsam and kasa are the formal robe. In regard to Jangsam, two sects ere dressed in gray. But there were differences of design between two sects. Kasa was different in the forms, patterns, colors, and kinds according to the legal system of the monk and the sects.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.125-136
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• 2018

This study classified and analyzed the assignments for the Hanbok skill contests between 1998 and 2017 so that the Korean hanbok can be properly passed down. this study proposes a variety of useful values for the Hanbok culture industry by providing basic data on various Hanbok making techniques to the Hanbok artisan. The results of the analysis of 39 assignments for the Hanbok skill contest are as follows. Firstly, The 20 assignments presented in the Local Skills Competitions consisted of 13 tasks (65%) in formal wear and 7 tasks (35%) in casual wear. Formal wear is mainly comprised of men's and children's wear (85.7%). There are Pungcha Baji, Sagusam, Kkachi Durumagi, Jeonbok & Bokgeon, Durumagi, and others on the formal wear of men'schildren's wear. In casual wear, 66.7% of women's wear such as scarves, skirts, jeogori, Hwejang Jeogori & chima were on the list of assignments. Secondly, All of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were in adult suits. Thirteen tasks (68.4%) were in formal wear and 6 tasks (31.6%) were in casual wear. Nine out of the 13 formal wear tasks (69.2%) were men's clothes. In 6 assignments of the casual wear, men's and women's clothes were presented three times each. Formal wear that had many assignments was the men's Chulik, which was presented three times in 2006, 2008 and 2016. Thirdly, Eighteen (90%) of the 20 assignments presented at the Local Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and the remaining 2 (10%) were for unlined clothes. Eleven tasks (57.9%) out of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and 8 tasks (42.1%) were for unlined clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2008

Jongga means a head family by only first son's line of each generation. It is our culture's root and identity. It also includes ritual for continuing filial duty. Ritual takes the main role on jongga culture to pay respects to Jongga's ancestors and roots. Therefore, ritual costume's importance can not be neglected. We will check a Po mainly for Jongga ritual costumes' types and designs to refind Jonggas identity and its meaning. In this research, areas are divided to Gyoungsang by Youngnam sect and Jeonla by Kiho sect. Geochang, Andong in Gyoungsang province and Haenam, Namwon, Youngkwang in Jeonla province where currently first sons of Jongga reside have been researched. The method is based on Books and visits on the places. Ritual costumes' types and designs are different between Gyoungsang and Jeonla. Firstly, now in Jongga, only a Dopo and a Durumagi are worn while the manner book shows a Danryoung, a Jikryoung, a Dopo and a Simu. Also costumes are variable on areas. Secondly, a Po is characterized by its sleeve and back-line's inside skirt. In a Po, Gyoungsang has a Duri sleeve and Jeonla has a Duri sleeve which has been changed from a Dunggun sleeve. While Gyoungsang has rectangle-shaped two pieces cloths and a split in a bottom, Jeonla has both a Mu with a split back and a complete split back in back-line's inside skirt. It seems that Youngnam sect's fundamentalism and Kiho sect's flexibility about culture of old political groups would have influenced on these patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.286-294
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• 2007

Dolbok, the first birthday suit, is a formal suit a person puts on for the first time after birth. It not only a symbolizes of Korean customs or traditions, but also represents transmitted ideas, values and lifestyles of Koreans. In this nation where strong preferences for son prevailed, dolbok for boy was specially important. 1.Styles of weaing Dolbok are classfied into trousers and jeogori, baeja, magoja, durumagi, jeonbok, sagyusam and yongpo styles in accordance with what kind of clothes was finally worn. 2. Accessories of dolbok for boys included dolddi, dol jumeoni, gulre, bokgeon, hogeon and tarae baeseon. 3. Dolbok of trousers and jeogori, baeja or magoja style simply consisted of 2 to 4 units of clothes. It was usually worn by ordinary people, and strongly imaged as common. Dolbok of durumagi or jeonbok style was a combination of 5 to 6 units of clothes and mainly worn by noble and royal families. It was remarkably formal, but quite brilliant. The suit for first birth anniversary which was sagyusam or yongpo was made in accordance with court rules and used by the royal family, It consisted of 7 to 8 units of clothes. Dolbok of sagyusam or yongpo style used invariable, simple patterns and colors, but had strong images of courtesy and dignity. 4. Regarding accessories of dolbok, the long-hanged goreum was a symbol of parental wishes for the $baby^{\circ}{\emptyset}s$ health and longevity and dolddi was joined by dol jumeonisymbolizing the wealth and prosperity of the baby. In addition, hogeon was a hat whose shape was the head of tiger symbolizing wishes for bravery and health and tarae beoseon was childlen's socks that had seams, symbolizing prosperity, on the fore edge. Seon for sagyusam was used as a symbol of preventing diseases or evil spirits to protect the health of the baby.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.39-50
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present adapting Korean beauty to the design of Wedding dress. For this study, Chosun Men's Pyoeui(coat) were considered first. Pyoeui had the courtesy and variety. They were Jobog, Danryeong. Chulrlk, Dabho, Jangeui, Aegjueumpo, Jigryeong, Changeui, Changos, Jungchimag, Hagchangeui, Simeui, Dopo, and Durumagi. Pyoeui were considered the formative features and the costume beauty describing Shape, Color, Material, Pattern. and Ornament. And Pyoeui were considered the instances which were adapted their formative features to Wedding dress. The formative features appearing on Wedding dress were merely applied the outward shape. Therefore it will be necessary to understand the outward features and the costume beauty about Men's Pyoeui for adapting Wedding dress. And then the continuous attempt is needed to adapt the beauty of Korean costume to the design of Wedding dress.