• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.221-232
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• 1995

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.1
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• pp.101-117
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• 1977

This thesis is a study of the Simui(深衣) system which was a dress regulation peculiar to old China with skirt and coat. The origin of Simui is a very long time, that is, before Ju dynasty in China. Its wearing range had a large circle irrespective of rank and good or bad luck. This was a ordinary dress to the Emperor or the lords, a below court attire or a below sacrificial rites attire to the illustrious officials, and good luck dress to the common people. But this was a funeral rites attire or coming-of-age ceremony attire in domestic behaviour. In the times of Song dynasty, lots of confucian scholars had put on this simui because of Juhi's recommendation for domestic behaviour. This Simui had been put on through all the times of China and was the original text of all the dress. Especially the court attire and silkworm working dress of Empress, and the court attire and underwear court attire of Emperor is also made out of this Simui, therefore this is a origin of the ceremonial dress which formed into long coat. In Korea it is said that this Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Goryeo dynasty. But we can't tell the correct transmitted age. According to the following records in Goryeo History, "King had put on the Simui as a sacrificial rite attire in the times of Yejong". It is sure that this Simui was brought in prior to the times of Yejong. In fact, lots of confucian scholars had put on the Simui since the introduction of confucianism in the end of Goryeo dynasty and after that time this was taken by many confucian scholars through Yi dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with Chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour, This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it were, Chumri, (an ordinary dress of scholars), Nansam (a uniform of upper student), and Hakchangui (a uniform of confucian student). There are many deta about Simui system in the book of Yeki, chapter Okcho and Simui, and other many canfucian books. But we didn't demonstrate the theory about it till now. Especially there are diversifies of opinions about the phrase of "Sok Im Ku Byun" in Yeki. Simui was cut in separate and then was stitched together in one piece. Generally its shape had round sleeve and angled lapel, its length reaches to the anklebone. And it has a line around the lapel, the sleeve band, and the edge of skirt. It is called Simui because the body can be wrapped deeply in broad width and large sleeve. The Simui was made of white fine linen and was cut by the natural size of body. Every part of Simui had a profound meaning; the round sleeve in compliance with regulation can keep a courtesy when a walker moves his hands and the angled lapel like a carpenter's square in compliance with square keeps them front loosing their Justice and a string of the back also keeps them loosing from their righteousness and the flat lower part of Simui makes their heart and mind calm. This Simui was usually attendant on a head cover and belt made cloth, and black shoes. This thesis was made a study of documents and portrait from Yi dynasty, for the actual object was not obtained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.149-162
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• 2008

The Regular rule of Sang-uiwon served as a manual of Royal Attires. According to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission, Royal ceremonial attire was made and presented to the royal family. The materials for the Royal informal dress were presented in accordance with usual tributes. There was no difference in informal dress between the royal family and noble class. But the name of items was different such as Goa du[man's jacket], Go ui[woman's jacket], etc. The royal family continued to wear old days dress as akjurm and noui, which were not worn by common people any more, as a means of differentiating clothes. Bub-bok, which was designed only for key figures of the royal family such as the king, crown prince, queen, and crown princess, was the best status symbol. Because of its highly limited example of wearing, bub-bok was the authority of the wearer itself; with only difference in color, pattern, and material depending on social status. Yong-po is the most frequently worn by the Royal men. Yong-po worn with jong-lip served as yung-bok or gun-bok, and iksun-gwan functioned as sang-bok. Royal Attire for men was clearly divided into Yong-po as sang-bok, bub-bok as myun-bok and gangsa-po, while jeok-ui for women functioned as both sang-bok and bub-bok. However, the use of jeok-ui was defined by differentiate sang-bok from bub-bok like as the pattern of Hyung-bae, number of embroidered round badges, shoes and ornaments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.54-68
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• 2006

Suhainmyuldo (樹下人物圖) is a type of picture which expresses a person under the tree and is known to be brought to the Korean Peninsula from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini (or Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India and the 'Tree of Life' in Western Asia which influenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way; for example, Jookrimchilhundo (竹林七賢圖: seven wise men in bamboo forest) in the Six Dynasty. There are only two items of female dress and its ornament from the 4th to 6th century Suhainmyuldo of the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural: one from the Jangchun Tomb No. 1 in which a female figure is portrayed as a part of living genre painting and the other from the Anahk Tomb No. 1 with seven female figures in a painting which is one of the earliest Suhainmyuldos, presumably from the 4th century. These two paintings must be considered in parallel with the origin of Suhainmyuldo. The mountain wizard's dress and Men's dress and its ornament in Suhainmyuldo from the 4th to the late 6th century Goguryeo ancient tomb is mostly joint adjust in which its collar is connected by a line and almost all the wizards are wearing Sang (upper garment). Most mountain wizards are wearing black feather shaped jackets and upper garments. One noticeable observation is that the mountain wizards of Mooyongchong, Tongu Ohgoibun Nos. 4 and 5 are completely different from one another in terms of ways to dress each wizard's official hats and shoes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.98-113
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• 2013

This study is an attempt to analyze the daily life of the Western-yearning Seoul citizens and the inflow of the Western culture into certain social classes. The customs of the characters in the film are studied to illustrate the process of deconstruction of Korean traditional clothes due to the Western influence. The combined application of the Western and Korean styles is also observed. All this study leads to the sense of homogeneity of the times and the conformity to the culture the Korean women shared, which boils down to the social identity of the Korean women who sought an escape from the men-centered social structure by displaying their competence in the field of global modern fashion. As Seonyeong Oh, the main character of the film, , was wearing in the movie the Korean traditional dress, socks, rubber shoes, and then a western-style coat, it well shows that in 1950's, the traditional dress and ornaments were mixed with Western styles. In time, men's wear were completely changed from the traditional Korean clothes to suits, while women's could not break off from the traditional clothes and become westernized, which indicates that the men-centered conservative ideas to keep women within the feudal regime of the society remained. The military look of Seonyeong Oh while she was acting in the society was a symbol of anti-bias against women and anti-convention as well as the will of freedom as an independent woman. Besides, the modern girls would wear clothes of military fashion, Dior's trapeze line, and knit styles flattering the figures. All these well show their desires to embrace Western cultures, especially their dress fashions as well as manners as so-called enlightened ladies. All these elements show that the director was trying to represent the progress of the drama, characters, and psychological states by means of the dress and ornaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.205-224
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the thirty pictures of Bud-dha to hang on the wall among the existing Buddist paintings. The costume to study were made about 64 years during the King Chung-yol(1286) to the King Chung-jong(1350) which style was mostly related in Won Dynasty. 가) Men's wear ; 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan Kun and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knot-s, and tied up with a hair ribbon, A kinds of Kuan-mo were Mine-lu-kuan Yuan-yu-kuan, Nong-kuan, Hae-chi-kuan Pok-du Yun-wha-kuan Yip-mo- and Tu-ku(Helmeto) 2. clothes ; 1) Colour of Koryo King's Mien-ku Kuan costume was not agree with blue and reddish black colour which was used in Yo, Song, Kum and Won Dynasty, however black and greenhish blue colour was agreed with. 2) The king wore T'ung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and the government officials wore Chin-hien-kuan Hae-chi-kuan and Nong-kuan as a court dress. In general the king and the Crown Prince wore a hats which was used in T'ung-t'ien system however sometimes they wore small hats which was cited in literature. 3) Gate guard and upper garment wore colourful costume figured gold colour pattern which was distin-gtive costume system of Koryo. 4) A monk wore big sleeve long skirt big sleeve long jacket long skirt and shoulder scar-f full shoulder scarf or right hand shoulder opened scarf. 5) The Soldiers wore helmet shoulder or scarf pee-back hung-kap, pok-kap, yang-dan-g-kap we-yu-kap kun-kap, and boots and they carried arms. 6) The young boys wore scarf, loin cloth, long skirt, belt neckless, wan-silk, boots and foots wear and wristless. 나) Women's wear ; 1. Hair style and hairs and tied up with a hair ribbon and wore precious ston decorated hair dress wheel shape hair dress pan shaped head dress handkerchif covered hair dress decorated precious stone hair pin silk chippon made of head dress muf-fler shaped hairdress. Boots mocasin hae lee, suk and sandle wored as a shoes depends on the classes. They wore neckless, earing wres-tless and wan-pu-sik. 2. Closthe 1) High rank lade's wore un-kyun attached jacket and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated long skirt apron back apron knot belt, scarf this type is the same with Dang Dynasty five dynasty of china Song, Kum Won, Myung Dynasty and our cos-tume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.59-72
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to establish objective data for marketing of industries and product development design by researching popular singer fashion of Korea, investigating the preference for popular singer design in street fashion among adolescents on the basis of the research, and drawing an conclusion. To analyze street fashion, total 190 young men and women in their 20s, including teenagers, were surveyed mainly in downtowns around Daehakro, Gangnam and Hongik University. First, in relation to the upper garment, men were found to wear T-shirts and hood T-shirts the most, while women were found to wear T-shirts and one-piece dress the most. Second, in relation to the lower garment, the ratio of those who wore skinny clothes was high both among men and women. Third, in relation to the outer apparel, the ratio of men who wore casual jacket and hood zip-up was high, while the ratio of women who wore tailored jacket and leather jacket was high. Fourth, in relation to shoes, the ratio of men who wore sports shoes was high, while the ratio of women who wore heeled-shoe was high. Fifth, it was found that plane pattern was preferred the most. As it was stated above, the findings of this study on the effect of entertainers' fashion on adolescents through street fashion indicated that the number of adolescents who imitate the fashion of entertainers increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.119-132
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• 2008

This study intended to develop and produce a modern form of fashion design for the Korean creative dance performance, 'Crazy Skirt Collage', which expressed conflict between internal ego and a persona in a woman. The qualitative method was used to analyze literature review, internet search and visual data of historically important cases related to the theme. Based on the analysis, the fashion design of the dance performanre by Hwang Hee-Yeon that was actually staged on Towol Theater, one of the Seoul Arts Center, was produced. The results wire as follows; First, the study confirmed a change of persona that revealed a female's animus strongly as it moved into the modern time. Second, the female's persona was expressed through long skirts, slips, dress shoes, handbags, military shoes, dresses with long zippers, trousers, wedding dresses and Korean full skirts during the performance, while the female's animus through male coats, panties, big bags and clock. In conclusion, it is necessary to study new expressive methods, that is, dance clothes using advanced equipment such as lights, videos or other variety of materials. It is also important to understand aesthetics of modern women's ordinary lives and to adapt ordinary clothes to dance clothes in various methods in order to express their modern lives appropriately through Korean creative dance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.756-762
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• 2005

The objective of this research is to examine psychological desires of college students who attempt to express themselves by wearing so called 'couple look' attire, which is a dressing habit that represents responses to various psychologies and the society. Moreover, the message that is trying to be conveyed to others by dressing as such and the question of whether that message is being conveyed, are subject to analysis by applying linguistic classification theory pertaining to this specific term. After a pre-examination based on a through interview conducted with 70 male and female college student, the main examination was based on question and answering methods on 450 male and female college students for data collection. The results were compared, reviewed and analyzed by applying Geoffrey Leech's meaning segmentation theory on linguistics, and was aimed at defining through research how meaning segmentation represented through languages can be applied in expressing one's self through clothing. The research results are as follows. 1. The psychological desires of wearing couple look attire are to express that they like and love each other, are dating, and to showcase their intimacy. 2. Clothing attire that are appropriate to express the couple look are T-shirts, jeans, pants, sweaters, mufflers, and accessories such as tennis shoes, hats, shoes, bags, rings, watches, ear-rings, etc. 3. Amongst people who have tried the couple look and those who have not, those who have said that they were willing to dress in couple look are mostly experienced in dressing so.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.41-52
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• 2004

The objective of this study is to contemplate both the formation and the aesthetic characteristics of the ballerina look represented in modern fashion by analyzing a ballet costume. The results of this study could be summarized as the following: the ballerina look is formed by ballet costume itself with being stick to or exposing human body line, or by casual dress mixed with a ballet costume; the materials consist of both the major materials for a ballet costume such as silk, chiffon, tulle, lace, or organza, and the usual materials for casual dress: a variety of color such as transparent, pastel etc. is also used with typically used colors like white and black: decoration is basically composed of ruffle, drape, gather and the distinctive accessory like toe shoes, ribbon tape, ankle warmer is used to show a feature of a ballet costume These formative characteristics of the ballerina look presented in modern fashion implies illusory, pure, and hybridity. traits. First, illusion of the ballerina look not only implicitly expresses a womans wish to experience a ballerina's fantastic world, but also recreates woman herself into a ballerina on a stage. Second, purity of the ballerina look makes design look feminine and smooth, which is expressed with girlish taste through materials and colors. Third, hybridity of the ballerina look suggests a standard of a new trend, which is active style, by adding comfortableness and flexibleness to romantic femininity.