• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.614-623
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a wedding dress basic torso pattern and sleeve pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s. For the research method, 3 women in their 20s who has the body size of ${\pm}$ S.D range of average figure and dress form suggested by 'the 5th human body measurement' of Size Korea were selected as the test group. The evaluators are 8 clothing construction majors, and the evaluation items included total 22 questions related to torso and total 10 questions related to sleeves. The evaluation was made using 5 Likert point scale. 4 prototypes for basic dress pattern were selected through the literature search. After compare analyzing design methods of prototypes, the real wedding dresses were made in the average size of women in their 20s and the dresses were tried on for the assessment. The data was analyzed using SPSS 18.0 Program to examine average, standard deviation and significant differences between basic patterns. Based on the results of the first and the second try-on assessments, a new wedding dress basic pattern with maximized strengths of compared prototypes was completed. The details of result follows. As for dress torso basic pattern, A pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. As for dress sleeve basic pattern, B pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. In this study, a wedding dress basic pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s was suggested. It is expected that the basic pattern will be used by continuously developing dress market and ready-made wedding dress manufacturers as well as in educational institutes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.97-108
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• 2004

This study was conducted to examine the marking efficiency of a dress pattern in order to reduce textile loss by pattern marking. A basic one-piece dress pattern saved to the Yuka CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marking efficiency in different conditions. Condition of marking experiment is made it a rule to use 150cm textile width and apply 44, 55, 66 pattern size for three pieces of a dress patterns. The results of the study indicated that the marking efficiency rates of the dress pattern with a separate facing was higher than the one with a self facing. In the dress pattern with a separate facing, the separated seam at center back was appeared to have a higher marking efficiency than the extended seam. It was also found that the efficiency rate was higher in the pattern with a seam at center back when comparing with the dress pattern without a seam. When the marking with a horizontally-loaded collar was compared with a vertically-loaded collar, the efficiency rate was higher for the collar loaded horizontally, The result of the study showed that the type of facing, the location of a seam, and the direction of collar loading were the factors directly related to increasing marking efficiency. The dress patterns marked efficiently in terms of a type of facing, seam, and collar treatment can reduce fabric loss and also shorten the time needed for marking process.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.215-228
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• 2020

Underlying dress forms for high coverage patterns are very important in the dress industry. Size 9 from brand D was chosen according to the analysis that it was the best option because a dress should have a large allowable range in one size. The criteria for selection were the dress form with a waist circumference of 63.50 centimeters, which is close to the standard size of women in Korea. Brassieres for dresses were included to enhance the aesthetic value of the correction process in producing a basic dress pattern. An experimental torso pattern was applied to evaluate the fit and suitability of the dress form that was also later verified in the process of the dress works. Three dresses were produced and presented on the chosen study dress form. The research procedures are as follows. First, the sell-through rates and feedbacks were collected from the dress form vendor. Second, a literature survey on dresses and a dress company investigation were conducted. Third, the amount of body dimension changes due to the use of a bra in the dresses were examined. Fourth, after the correction of the dress form, the torso pattern was made by draping. Fifth, the torso experimental clothing made of muslin material was evaluated. Sixth, the dress works of the top design were presented using the size 9 basic pattern developed by brand D.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.656-664
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• 2019

This study was to develop the patterns based on the study of commercial Cheollik dress pattern analysis that verify the effects of pattern improvement by performing wearing evaluations. The commercial Cheollik dress pattern analysis was divided into A type composed of a traditional hanbok flat sleeve type and B type composed of western three-dimensional sleeves type. The prototype pattern of A type and prototype pattern of B type were fabricated after modifying and supplementing the pattern on the basis of precedent research. Appearance evaluations and mobility evaluations were also conducted. In the evaluations of the appearance, the prototype pattern in both A type and B type rated better than the control pattern in all items, so it can be judged to be a pattern that creates a better appearance in terms of allowance and design ratio. In the evaluations of the mobility, the prototype pattern was more convenient and a functional pattern with better scores in both A type and B type. If the Cheollik dress prototype patterns developed in this study are distributed, the Cheollik dress will be easy and comfortable to wear as a casual wear, which will help to make dailyization and popularization of Hanbok.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.91-100
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of check dresses shown in collections from 2011 to 2014 and to extract main expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette of block check dresses. The results of this study are as follows: 1) 120 check dresses shown in collections were composed of 57 straight silhouette dresses, 38 fitted silhouette dresses, 23 hourglass silhouette dresses, 1 barrel silhouette dress, and 1 atypical silhouette dress. And check pattern mostly used in the current collections a square pattern of block check, tartan check that is a Scotch traditional lattice pattern, a small lattice pattern of gingham check, over check that other check patterns are arranged on check pattern, star-shaped hound tooth check, glen check mixing small pattern and big pattern. The visual image for check dress differs according to changes in the check pattern and silhouette of the dress. 2) Main expressional words of visual images for block check dresses differ greatly depending on the silhouette of dresses. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'graphic', 'simple', 'hard', 'modern' for straight silhouette of block check dresses. The words of 'lively', 'girlish', 'feminine', 'cute' are ranked for hourglass silhouette of block check dresses. And the words of 'confident', 'feminine', 'modern' are marked down for fitted silhouette of block check dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.548-555
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the patterns of commercial Cheollik dresses by size analysis and wearing evaluation. Six kinds of commercial Cheollik dress patterns distributed on the market were selected and classified into two types group, A type group(A-1, A-2, A-3) consisting of flat type sleeve pattern and B type group(B-1, B-2, B-3) consisting of three-dimensional type sleeve pattern depending on the sleeve type. The size of the Cheollik dress pattern was analyzed, and wearing evaluations of the appearance, movability were carried out. Cheollik dress pattern was made in various size and many patterns were produced in the form of omission of components such as seop. It should be based on the understanding of the form and composition of the traditional Cheollik for pattern development. As a result of the wearing evaluation, A-2 showed the highest evaluation in the appearance and movability evaluations in type A. B-2 was the highest evaluation in appearance evaluation in type B. But in the evaluation of the movability, B-2 received the lowest evaluation because of little allowance. Therefore, the allowance in clothes should be considered enough for the movability. The result of this study can be provided as a basic data for the development of Cheollik dress pattern reflecting modern trend and the traditional beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.950-962
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.969-977
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• 2007

The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.